Potosí, once one of the wealthiest cities in the world due to its vast silver mines, is today a high-altitude Bolivian city where colonial architecture, mining heritage, and everyday local life come together in a striking yet often challenging environment.
Bolivia: The pre-Colombian culture of Tiwanaku
The day began with the prospect of leaving behind the hilly, restless chaos of La Paz, a city that never seems to sit still. Its steep streets are full of honking minibuses, endless markets, and a tangle of people going about their business. It is fascinating, of course, but it can also wear one down. So, the idea of a quieter day, out in the open air, appealed greatly.
My destination was Tiwanaku, the remains of a civilisation that flourished long before the Incas ever dreamt of building their empire. Situated about 80 kilometres from La Paz, it lies out on the high plain known as the altiplano. It is a windswept and rather stark landscape, but one that holds a peculiar beauty. The journey promised two things in equal measure: a glimpse of the distant past, and a reminder of the thin air that comes with being over 3,800 metres above sea level.
A minivan arrived outside my hotel. I climbed aboard to find a half-filled vehicle with the usual assortment of travellers one gathers on these small tours. Before long we were puttering through the city, stopping here and there to collect more passengers. In time we were a full complement, an international cast for the day’s adventure. There was a friendly Belgian couple, both teachers on an impressive forty–day journey around South America. They seemed full of energy and good humour. Then there was a young Brazilian chap, who had the look of a student philosopher temporarily transplanted from a café in Rio. Together, we made a curious little band, united by the desire to see what the ancients had left behind.
⛽ A Glimpse of Modern Bolivia
Our progress out of La Paz was not without reminders that Bolivia is a country with its challenges. Skirting one of the towns along the highway, we encountered a sight both sobering and strangely impressive. A line of cars stretched out in single file for what must have been a kilometre, with a second snake of lorries beside them. It was not a festival, nor a parade, but the daily reality of fuel shortages. Drivers waited endlessly for their turn at the pump, the lucky ones clutching plastic jerry cans in hope.
It struck me as one of those moments when travel pierces the comfortable bubble of tourism. One is reminded that while we might be seeking ruins and history, people here are simply trying to keep their lives in motion. For me, at least, it lent an added gravity to the day.
🏔️ Out onto the Altiplano
Once the road opened out onto the wide sweep of the altiplano, the scenery changed dramatically. Gone were the twisting streets and steep valleys of La Paz. Instead, an immense plain stretched in all directions, ringed by distant mountains whose peaks floated in the haze. The land looked harsh and sparse, yet there was life in it—patches of cultivation, grazing llamas, and the occasional figure wrapped against the wind.
As we bumped along, my thoughts turned to the people we were about to meet in spirit, if not in person. The Tiwanaku civilisation flourished here between about 500 and 1000 CE. They were farmers, engineers, and stonemasons of great skill, and they learned to bend this severe environment to their will. Using ingenious raised fields and canal systems, they grew potatoes and quinoa in quantities enough to sustain their city and spread their influence. Their culture extended into what is now Peru, Chile, and even Argentina. And they left behind not only myths and fragments, but temples, pyramids, and monoliths that continue to puzzle scholars.
🪨 The Mystery of Pumapunku
Our first stop was at Pumapunku, perhaps the most mysterious of the sites. At first sight, it looks like a scatter of giant building blocks thrown aside by some inattentive titan. But when you draw closer, the stones reveal something extraordinary. Many are carved with remarkable precision, the edges as sharp as anything cut with modern tools. Some stones bear right angles so perfect that one has to step back and remind oneself these were carved more than a thousand years ago, without metal tools, and without the wheel.
Some of the blocks weigh more than 100 tonnes and were brought here from quarries many miles away. How, exactly, remains uncertain. Theories abound, ranging from practical but unproven methods of transport, to outlandish tales involving lost technologies or even visitors from beyond the stars. I am not much swayed by fanciful ideas, but I confess that standing among those colossal stones, it is hard not to feel a shiver of awe.
🏺 The Museum and the Bennett Monolith
From Pumapunku we walked to the local museum. Inside, the Tiwanaku culture came alive in ceramics, textiles and statues. Pottery displayed bold designs and wide staring eyes, while stone carvings hinted at a rich religious world centred around the sun and sky.
The highlight is without doubt the Bennett Monolith, a colossal statue over seven metres high. It represents a powerful figure holding ceremonial objects, its carved details running from head to foot. To stand before it is humbling, as if meeting the gaze of a long-departed priest or ruler. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside the museum. Like many visitors, I later found images online to help recall what I had seen. Even so, the memory of standing in its shadow needs no photograph.
⛰️ The Akapana Pyramid
The heart of Tiwanaku lies only a short walk away. We approached the Akapana pyramid, which at first sight looks like a grassy mound. In its prime, however, it was a terraced step pyramid some fifteen metres high, with a complex system of drains and channels. Archaeologists believe it served as a ceremonial centre, perhaps linked to the heavens above and the waters below. Looting, neglect and the theft of stone for railway construction in the 19th century have robbed it of its original splendour, but its scale is still impressive. One can only imagine what it looked like when its steps were crisp and its walls freshly built.
👥 The Semi-Subterranean Temple
Next, we descended into the Semi-Subterranean Temple, a sunken courtyard whose walls are lined with hundreds of carved stone faces. Each is distinct, as if representing the many peoples that fell under Tiwanaku’s influence. Some suggest they symbolise a unity of diverse tribes. In the centre stands a monolithic idol, holding ceremonial objects and gazing out with an expression that is both stern and mysterious.
Our guide reminded us that Tiwanaku’s hardships did not end when its civilisation declined. In the 19th century, the arrival of the railway from La Paz saw stones prised from the site to lay track. Even the city’s mayor once treated Tiwanaku as a quarry. That anything remains at all is something of a miracle.
🏛️ The Kalasasaya Temple and the Gateway of the Sun
The vast Kalasasaya Temple was our next stop. Built on a raised platform, it once served as both a ceremonial and astronomical centre. The size of the place is arresting: massive sandstone pillars define its edges, enclosing a sacred space where rituals once took place.
At its heart stands the Puerta del Sol – the Gateway of the Sun. This enormous monolithic portal was carved from a single block of stone. Across its lintel runs an intricate frieze dominated by the Staff God, flanked by winged attendants. Some scholars believe it functioned as a calendar, others see it as an astronomical marker, while some argue it was simply a sacred threshold. Whatever the truth, it is mesmerising. To stand before it is to confront both the artistry and the enigma of a people who etched their beliefs into stone.
Within the temple, other statues stand tall, weathered yet proud. Each has its own character, reminding us that these were not mere decorations but icons of deep religious meaning. As we left, we passed another statue near the exit – sadly, this one had its head removed. Our guide explained it was likely hacked off by looters in centuries past, either for transport or to weaken its spiritual power.
💭 Final Thoughts
Visiting Tiwanaku is not just about seeing ruins; it is about standing in the presence of a civilisation that shaped the Andes long before the Incas. The wind blows cold across the altiplano, and the stones lie weathered and scarred by centuries of neglect, but they still whisper of a people with remarkable skill and imagination. If you find yourself in Bolivia, make the journey. It is not a polished site like Machu Picchu, but in its rawness lies its power.
Planning your visit to Tiwakanu archaeological site
📍 Location
Tiwanaku (also spelled Tiahuanaco) is located about 72 km west of La Paz, Bolivia, near the southern shore of Lake Titicaca. It is one of South America’s most significant archaeological sites, recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
🚗 How to Get There
From La Paz: Take a bus from the Cementerio General terminal or a minibus from El Alto, which takes around 1.5–2 hours.
By Tour: Many agencies in La Paz offer guided day trips that include transport, entry, and a guide.
By Car: A straightforward drive via Route 1 towards Desaguadero.
🌐 Official Website
✉️ Contact
Email: info@tiwanaku.gob.bo
Telephone: +591 2 2896 150
⏰ Opening Hours
Monday – Sunday: 9:00 am – 5:00 pm
Closed on certain national holidays.
🎟️ Entry Fees
Foreign Visitors: Approx. 100 BOB (about £11 / $14)
Bolivian Citizens: Reduced rates available
Children and students may receive discounts (with valid ID).
Getting around La Paz
🚡 Cable Cars (Mi Teleférico)
One of the most unique and scenic ways to get around La Paz is by using the Mi Teleférico cable car network. Stretching across the city and linking to neighbouring El Alto, these brightly coloured gondolas offer incredible views of the mountains, valleys, and the bustling city below. They are efficient, inexpensive, and a far less stressful alternative to negotiating the crowded streets by car. Each line has its own colour, and connections between them are easy to follow.
🚌 Minibuses and Shared Taxis
For a truly local experience, visitors can hop on the ubiquitous minibuses and colectivos (shared taxis). They criss-cross the city and beyond, each following set routes marked on their windshields. Fares are very cheap, though they can be confusing for newcomers and crowded at peak hours. It’s best to ask locals or your accommodation for advice on which routes to take.
🚕 Regular Taxis
Taxis are plentiful in La Paz, but it is wise to choose radio taxis (booked by phone or through your hotel) rather than hailing one off the street, as they are safer and more reliable. They are more expensive than minibuses but still affordable compared to European prices. Always agree the fare before setting off, as most taxis don’t use metres.
🚶 Walking
While La Paz is a fascinating city to explore on foot, the steep hills and high altitude can make walking challenging. Short strolls around the central areas, such as Plaza Murillo or the Witches’ Market, are manageable and rewarding. Just remember to take it slowly, stay hydrated, and allow time to catch your breath.
🚗 Private Tours and Transfers
For those who prefer convenience and comfort, booking private transfers or tours can be an excellent option. Many operators provide hotel pick-ups and guided transport, especially useful for excursions outside the city such as Valle de la Luna or Tiwanaku. Though pricier than public transport, this option removes the stress of navigating and allows more time to enjoy the sights.
Eating out for vegans in La Paz
🌿 Ali Pacha – City Centre
Perhaps the most celebrated vegan restaurant in La Paz, Ali Pacha is a fine-dining spot that reimagines traditional Bolivian ingredients with a modern, plant-based twist. Expect beautifully presented tasting menus, with dishes showcasing Andean roots, grains, and herbs in surprising ways. A real treat for foodies.
📍 Address: Calle Colón 1306, La Paz
🌐 Website: alipacha.com
📸 Instagram: @ali_pacha
🍜 Red Monkey – Sopocachi
This lively café in the artsy Sopocachi neighbourhood serves up a mix of international vegan dishes alongside excellent coffee. Their veggie burgers, falafel wraps, and smoothie bowls are popular choices, and the casual setting makes it a great place to hang out.
📍 Address: Rosendo Gutiérrez 832, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @redmonkeylapaz
🛒 Sana Sana – Health Shop & Deli
Sana Sana doubles as a health food shop and vegan-friendly café. Stock up on plant-based essentials like nut butters, kombucha, and cruelty-free snacks, or grab a wholesome meal such as quinoa bowls, soups, and salads. Ideal for those staying longer in the city.
📍 Address: Calle Belisario Salinas 360, Sopocachi, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @sanasanalapaz
🍽️ Namas Te – Sopocachi
A cosy vegetarian café with plenty of vegan options, Namas Te is a favourite for its relaxed vibe and nourishing food. Think lentil stews, curry bowls, and fresh juices. It’s also a popular spot for yoga enthusiasts and creatives in the area.
📍 Address: Av. 6 de Agosto 2535, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @namaste_lapaz
🧁 Café Vida – San Miguel
Tucked away in the upmarket San Miguel district, Café Vida is known for its excellent vegan cakes and healthy brunches. Expect treats like banana bread, raw chocolate desserts, and quality coffee with almond or soy milk. A perfect stop for a sweet indulgence.
📍 Address: Calle Montenegro 984, San Miguel, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @cafevidabolivia
🥙 Sabor Vegan – Fast & Fresh
If you’re after quick, tasty vegan bites, Sabor Vegan is a small but mighty fast food option. They offer plant-based burgers, wraps, and bowls with bold seasoning and hearty portions. Great for a casual meal on the go.
📍 Address: Calle Murillo 972, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @saborvegan
🌱 Jugospace – Juices & Smoothies
A cheerful juice bar serving cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and light vegan snacks. Perfect for a refreshing break during sightseeing or to fuel up before tackling the steep streets of La Paz.
📍 Address: Calle Linares 906, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @jugospace
The best time to visit La Paz
🌸 Spring (September–November) – Best Time to Visit
Weather: Mild and sunny (10–20°C)
Crowds: Moderate
Highlights: Clear skies, colourful markets, and excellent conditions for exploring the city and nearby valleys.
Why Go: Spring in La Paz is crisp, bright, and full of life. It’s a wonderful season for strolling through plazas, riding the cable cars for sweeping mountain views, and heading out to Lake Titicaca or the Valle de la Luna without extremes of heat or rain.
🌿 Ideal for walkers, photographers, and those who enjoy lively street life.
☀️ Summer (December–February)
Weather: Rainy and humid (8–18°C)
Crowds: Lower – some visitors avoid the rains.
Highlights: Carnival celebrations, lush green landscapes, and dramatic cloudscapes rolling across the Andes.
Caution: Afternoon downpours can be heavy, with slippery streets and occasional travel disruptions.
🧴 Bring a waterproof jacket and good shoes.
☔ Plan indoor visits – museums, markets, and cafés – for rainy spells.
🍂 Autumn (March–May) – Another Excellent Option
Weather: Cool and dry (7–18°C)
Crowds: Moderate but thinning towards May.
Highlights: Crystal-clear skies with snow-dusted peaks, perfect for photography. The city feels calm after the rains, and day trips to Tiwanaku or hiking in the Yungas are especially rewarding.
📷 Great for photographers and culture seekers.
🍲 Combine your visit with hearty Bolivian food – autumn evenings suit steaming bowls of sopa de maní.
❄️ Winter (June–August)
Weather: Cold and dry (0–15°C, nights often below freezing)
Crowds: High – peak tourist season.
Highlights: Brilliantly blue skies, excellent trekking conditions, and bustling festivals such as Gran Poder in June.
⚠️ Nights can be very cold – bring layers.
🔭 The dry air makes for superb stargazing.
✅ Summary
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Experience | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mild 🌤️ | Moderate | Colourful, lively, perfect for walks | ⭐ Best |
| ☀️ Summer | Wet 🌧️ | Light | Festive, green, dramatic | ⚠️ Variable |
| 🍂 Autumn | Cool 🌥️ | Light–Moderate | Crisp, clear, cultural | ✅ Great |
| ❄️ Winter | Cold ❄️ | Busy | Bright, festive, trekking | 🎯 Adventurous |
Where to stay in La Paz
Sopocachi – Trendy and Cultural
Sopocachi is one of the most popular neighbourhoods for visitors who want a mix of modern comforts and local flair. It has a bohemian vibe, with leafy squares, independent cafés, lively bars, and plenty of restaurants serving both Bolivian and international cuisine. The area is also well known for its art galleries and cultural spaces, making it a good choice for travellers who like to be close to the creative heartbeat of the city. Many boutique hotels and guesthouses are tucked away in its quiet streets, while the Teleférico (cable car) offers quick and scenic access to other parts of La Paz.
San Pedro – Central and Convenient
Located near the city centre, San Pedro is a bustling area that puts you within walking distance of many of La Paz’s main attractions, including the famous Witches’ Market, Plaza Murillo, and Calle Jaén. It’s a lively neighbourhood, with plenty of budget-friendly accommodation options, local markets, and street food stalls. While it can feel busy and a little chaotic at times, it’s ideal for travellers who want to be at the heart of the action and don’t mind a bit of noise.
Downtown La Paz – For First-Time Visitors
If it’s your first time in La Paz, staying downtown might be the easiest option. Here you’ll find a wide range of hotels, from budget hostels to mid-range and more comfortable stays, all close to transport links and tour operators. Being central means it’s easy to join day trips to the Valley of the Moon, Tiwanaku, or Lake Titicaca. The area can feel crowded and commercial, but its convenience and accessibility make it a safe bet for newcomers.
Zona Sur – Comfortable and Upmarket
For those seeking more comfort, Zona Sur is an attractive alternative. Situated at a lower altitude than the city centre, it has a slightly milder climate and is considered the more affluent side of La Paz. Here you’ll find luxury hotels, modern apartments, shopping centres, and international restaurants. It’s not as central as Sopocachi or downtown, but it’s quieter and offers a more relaxed base for travellers who prefer a calmer environment. Taxis and cable cars make it easy to get back into the city centre when needed.
Miraflores – Balanced and Family-Friendly
Miraflores is a solid choice for travellers who want a balance between convenience and calm. It’s home to several parks, the Hernando Siles Stadium, and some good mid-range hotels. The neighbourhood is less touristy than downtown or Sopocachi, which means it feels more authentic and residential, yet still has enough restaurants and shops to keep you comfortable. It’s a good area for families or anyone who prefers a quieter base while still being within easy reach of the main sights.
1. Mid Range: Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique
I recently stayed at the Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique in La Paz and was thoroughly impressed by the experience. The hotel has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with beautifully designed interiors that feel both stylish and comfortable. The staff were absolutely lovely, always friendly and attentive, which made the stay all the more enjoyable. One of the highlights is the location, which couldn’t be better – right next to the Teleférico, making it easy to get around the city, and just by Plaza España, which adds a pleasant local charm. It’s a perfect base for exploring La Paz, offering both convenience and comfort in equal measure.
2. Luxury – Atix Hotel
The Atix Hotel in La Paz is a striking example of contemporary Bolivian design, blending modern luxury with a strong sense of cultural identity. Situated in the upscale neighbourhood of Calacoto, it stands out not only for its sleek glass façade but also for its celebration of Bolivian heritage, with art and design elements inspired by the country’s landscapes and traditions. Inside, the hotel showcases works by renowned local artists, giving each space a distinctly Bolivian character while maintaining an international standard of comfort. Rooms are stylishly appointed, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and city, and the rooftop pool and bar provide one of the best vantage points in La Paz to enjoy the dramatic scenery. With its thoughtful balance of sophistication and authenticity, the Atix Hotel offers visitors a refined yet deeply rooted experience of Bolivia’s capital.
3. Budget – The Rooftop Bolivia
The Rooftop Bolivia in La Paz is a lively and stylish spot that has become a favourite with both travellers and locals thanks to its unbeatable views of the city and surrounding mountains. Perched high above the bustling streets, it offers a relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere where you can enjoy panoramic vistas of the sprawling cityscape, framed by the dramatic peaks of the Andes. The space is modern and welcoming, with comfortable seating areas perfect for socialising, unwinding with a drink, or simply soaking up the energy of La Paz from above. Known for its friendly vibe, upbeat music, and a mix of international visitors, The Rooftop has established itself as more than just a bar – it’s a social hub where people come together to share travel stories, meet new friends, and take in one of the most memorable views in the city.
More to Explore
