Sucre, the constitutional capital of Bolivia, is a calm and attractive city known for its well-preserved colonial architecture, mild climate, and relaxed pace of life, making it a pleasant place for visitors to spend time exploring.
Bolivia: “Potosí: The Silver City of the Andes”
Whilst I don’t seem to suffer from the very worst of altitude sickness, I have discovered that sleeping at over 4,000 metres brings its own challenges. Nights at this elevation are not so much restful as a series of short naps strung together. My main issue is the constant waking as my body fights to draw in more oxygen from the thin air. It feels as though my lungs forget their rhythm, my breathing turning irregular, until I jolt awake with a start, as though I’ve briefly forgotten how to inhale. Adding to this, my nose was badly blocked and my mouth painfully dry, leaving me desperate for water each time I woke. The combination of restless sleep and physical discomfort was draining, but come morning I pulled myself together. The day ahead promised to be remarkable – a visit to the infamous mines of Potosí.
🍳 Breakfast and Meeting Manuel
After a simple breakfast, I set out on foot. The meeting point was conveniently close, no more than five minutes from my hotel. Waiting there was Manuel, my guide for the day. He greeted me warmly, the kind of man who gives the impression he knows every stone and street in Potosí. He led me across to a small shopfront, the modest base of the tour company. Inside, I waited for our transport – a van that eventually rattled up, far from modern but serviceable. As Manuel reminded me with a smile, it had four wheels and an engine, which was all we needed. We collected another traveller, a young woman from Peru, and soon we were heading out together to begin the day’s adventure.
🛒 The Miners’ Market
Our first stop was the miners’ market, a place unlike any I’d visited before. The tradition here is that visitors to the mines bring offerings for the workers – gifts to show respect and earn trust. Without them, Manuel explained, tourists might be met with suspicion. He guided us through the choices.
The first item was coca leaves. These are chewed constantly by miners, not as a luxury but as a necessity, dulling hunger and fuelling stamina during the long hours underground. The process is more than just chewing – the leaves are stuffed into the cheek and slowly sucked, often enhanced by a nibble of ash blocks made from potato or quinoa. I bought a bundle and tried some there and then. The taste was bitter, almost numbing, and far from pleasant, but I could understand why the miners relied on them.
Next came alcohol, though not the kind one finds in a bar. What we were shown was a raw, colourless sugarcane spirit labelled at an alarming 96 per cent proof. I asked the obvious questions – wasn’t this lethal? And surely drinking in a mine was dangerous? Manuel explained that miners typically saved it for after work, usually on Fridays, sharing it with friends and always spilling a few drops on the ground as an offering to Pachamama, Mother Earth.
The list of offerings continued with hand-rolled cigarettes, crude but spiced with herbs such as cinnamon. And then came the most surprising item of all – dynamite. Manuel calmly showed us sticks of nitroglycerine with metre-long fuses, giving miners three or four minutes to retreat before detonation. I decided against this particular gift. In the end, I settled on coca leaves, cigarettes, and a few soft drinks – all for just 20 Bolivianos, about three US dollars.
🦺 Getting Kitted Out
Back at the shop, it was time to gear up. I was handed a set of heavy overalls, thick jacket and trousers, and rubber boots in size 46 – the largest they had, though still uncomfortably snug. The most important item was the hard hat, fitted with a lamp. Manuel reminded us that the mines were entirely unlit; without our lamps we would be swallowed by absolute darkness. With our gear clattering and boots squeaking, we looked the part, if not entirely ready for what lay ahead.
⚒️ First Impressions of the Mine
Arriving at Cerro Rico, the “Rich Mountain,” our first sight was of young men pushing heavy carts of rock from the tunnels, muscles straining, before tipping the loads into pens where women sifted ore from rubble. A digger then heaved the sorted rock into trucks, bound for crushing plants around town. Manuel explained that Bolivia does not refine its silver or minerals; the raw material is exported, processed abroad, and sold for far more than miners ever see.
He shared the history of Cerro Rico. In the 16th and 17th centuries, this mountain fuelled the Spanish Empire, its silver wealth flowing to Madrid and funding wars across Europe. Potosí became one of the richest cities in the world. Today, more than 500 mines still honeycomb the mountain, run mostly by cooperatives rather than corporations. Around 10,000 miners remain employed here, still extracting silver, zinc, lead, and tin. Yet the riches have dwindled, and the dangers remain. Manuel spoke bluntly – many miners start as children, following fathers into the tunnels. Dust, accidents, and exhaustion take their toll. Life expectancy is short, often no more than fifty years. It was sobering to hear, but essential to understand before stepping inside.
🌑 Into the Tunnels
We entered the mine through a low opening. A compressor thumped noisily, pumping air through pipes that dangled overhead. The tunnels twisted forward, often less than two metres high, lined sporadically with rough wooden supports that did little to inspire confidence. Water dripped constantly, pooling on the ground. Along narrow tracks, miners pushed carts at alarming speeds, sometimes leaping on the back to ride them like fairground rides, slowing only by pressing their boots against the rails. The deeper we went, the hotter it became, climbing past thirty degrees Celsius. The air was thick, filled with dust and the hiss of escaping compressed air.
👹 Meeting El Tío
In a side chamber we came face to face with El Tío, the Lord of the Underworld. His statue, painted and decorated, was both comic and unsettling. Miners believe that the underground belongs to him, not to God, so they leave offerings of coca leaves, cigarettes, and alcohol for his protection. His exaggerated phallus symbolised fertility and abundance, though the tip had broken off, leaving him somewhat diminished. Still, the respect he commanded was real.
💥 Dynamite in Action
Further along, we encountered a young miner named Adam, weary after just three months underground, his job regulating compressed air valves. Not long after, we stumbled upon a team preparing charges. As the final fuse was lit, Manuel hurried us into a side tunnel with a very low ceiling. I cracked my helmet several times as I scrambled in. Then came the explosions – a deep “whomp” followed by seven more, shaking the rock and sending dust cascading around us. It was both frightening and exhilarating, a stark reminder of the risks faced daily here.
🌤️ Emerging to Daylight
After nearly two hours underground, the cool air and pale daylight felt like a gift. We stripped off our filthy gear and climbed back into the van, weary but grateful. The mines of Cerro Rico had shown me a raw, unforgettable reality – both their history and their hardship.
🏛️ The National Mint of Bolivia
After a quick meal back at the hotel, I headed to the National Mint, housed in one of Potosí’s most impressive colonial buildings. Built in the 18th century, it once struck coins for the Spanish Crown, turning Cerro Rico silver into currency that spread across the world. Its thick stone walls, vast courtyards, and wooden doors reflected the wealth of its time.
Tours are the only way to visit, and though I missed the English-language group, I joined a Spanish one. Thankfully, the guide translated key points for me. We saw enormous wooden coin presses once powered by mules, later replaced by water-driven machinery from Europe. Display cases showed centuries of coins, their faces charting empires and republics. Other galleries held mineral samples, colonial paintings, and religious art. For me, the highlight was the building itself. Its courtyards offered quiet beauty, a striking contrast to the noise and dust of the mines.
🏙️ Wandering Through Potosí
When the tour ended, I left with a clearer sense of Potosí’s role in global history – a city that once fuelled empires yet paid a heavy human cost. I wandered to a supermarket for provisions, my mind still occupied by the day’s contrasts: the dark, perilous tunnels of Cerro Rico and the calm grandeur of the Mint. Potosí had revealed both its faces – wealth and suffering, glory and struggle.
💭 Final Thoughts
My day in Potosí was unforgettable. From the sleepless night at altitude to the clattering carts underground, from offerings to El Tío to the grandeur of the Mint, the city showed me its history in sharp contrasts. It was at once fascinating, sobering, and rewarding. Visiting Potosí is not just sightseeing – it is witnessing the endurance of people and the legacy of a mountain that once shaped the world.
Planning your visit to Potosí
📍 Location
Potosí lies in southern Bolivia at an altitude of over 4,000 metres, making it one of the world’s highest cities. Nestled at the foot of the Cerro Rico mountain, the city was once famed as the source of immense silver wealth during the Spanish colonial period. Today, Potosí is a fascinating destination for history, architecture, and culture.
🚗 How to Get There
From Sucre: Regular buses connect Sucre with Potosí, taking around 3–4 hours. Shared taxis are also an option for a faster journey.
From La Paz: Buses run overnight, usually taking 10–12 hours. Some companies offer semi-cama or cama class seats for added comfort.
By Air: Potosí does not have a fully operating commercial airport at present, so flying directly is not an option. Travellers usually fly into Sucre and continue overland.
By Car: Driving is possible via well-paved routes, but the altitude and winding roads make it more suitable for experienced drivers.
💡 Useful Tips
Altitude Preparation: At over 4,000m, altitude sickness is common. Take time to acclimatise, drink coca tea, and avoid strenuous activity upon arrival.
Money Matters: Carry some cash in bolivianos, as ATMs can be unreliable, and smaller shops may not accept cards.
Weather: Even in the dry season, nights can be very cold. Pack warm clothing, especially if planning a mine tour or visiting Cerro Rico.
Guided Tours: To fully appreciate the city’s history, consider joining a guided walking tour or visiting the old silver mines with a reputable operator.
Safety: Potosí is generally safe for travellers, but take standard precautions, especially at night or in crowded markets.
The best time to visit Potosí
🌸 Visiting Potosí in Spring (September – November)
Spring in Potosí is one of the most pleasant times to visit, as the weather begins to warm after the cold winter months. Daytime temperatures range from 12°C to 18°C, making it comfortable to explore the city’s colonial streets and UNESCO-listed silver mines. The skies are generally clear, providing excellent views of the surrounding mountains and Cerro Rico. This is also a quieter time of year for tourism, so you can enjoy sites without large crowds. Nights, however, can still be chilly, so layers remain essential.
☀️ Visiting Potosí in Summer (December – February)
Summer coincides with the rainy season in Potosí. While daytime temperatures are relatively mild (14°C to 20°C), afternoon downpours are common, and heavy rain can occasionally make rural roads difficult to travel. This is the greenest time of year, with landscapes surrounding the city looking fresh and lush, which is ideal if you plan to combine Potosí with trips to the countryside or Uyuni. It’s wise to carry a lightweight rain jacket, waterproof shoes, and a sturdy umbrella.
🍂 Visiting Potosí in Autumn (March – May)
Autumn is a transitional season with cooler nights and crisp, dry days. Rainfall decreases sharply after March, leaving bright blue skies and a comfortable climate for sightseeing. Average daytime highs sit between 13°C and 17°C, with cooler evenings often dipping close to freezing. This is an excellent time for photography, as the skies are particularly clear, and the light on Cerro Rico is dramatic. Pack warm clothing for evenings, but enjoy the pleasant weather during the day with lighter layers.
❄️ Visiting Potosí in Winter (June – August)
Winter is the driest season and also the coldest. Daytime temperatures can hover between 8°C and 14°C, while nights regularly fall below freezing. Despite the chill, this is the most reliable season for sunshine and clear skies, making it the best time for mine tours and walking through the historic centre. You’ll need to pack thermal layers, a warm coat, gloves, and a hat to stay comfortable, especially after sunset.
🎒 What to Pack for Potosí
Layers – The altitude (over 4,000 metres) means temperatures fluctuate dramatically between day and night.
Warm Clothing – Even in summer, evenings can be cold, so bring a fleece or jacket.
Rain Gear – Essential if travelling between December and February.
Comfortable Footwear – Good shoes for walking the cobbled streets and mine tours.
Sun Protection – Sunglasses, sun cream, and a hat are important due to the strong high-altitude sun.
Reusable Water Bottle – Hydration is vital at this altitude.
📊 Seasonal Summary of Visiting Potosí
| Season | Weather | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (Sep–Nov) | Mild, dry, cool nights | Pleasant weather, fewer crowds | Nights still cold |
| Summer (Dec–Feb) | Warm, rainy afternoons | Green landscapes, mild days | Heavy rain, muddy roads |
| Autumn (Mar–May) | Dry, crisp, cool nights | Clear skies, great light, fewer rains | Nights often freezing |
| Winter (Jun–Aug) | Cold, very dry, sunny | Best for sunshine & tours | Very cold nights |
🌍 Overall Best Time to Visit
The best overall time to visit Potosí is from March to May (autumn). During this period, rainfall is minimal, skies are beautifully clear, and daytime temperatures are comfortable for exploring. While nights can still be cold, this is easily managed with the right clothing. If you prefer consistent sunshine and don’t mind freezing evenings, June to August (winter) is also a strong choice. Ultimately, the decision comes down to your tolerance for cold versus rain, but autumn strikes the best balance for most travellers.
Where to stay in Potosí
1. Mid Range: Hotel Santa Mónica
Hotel Santa Mónica in Potosí is a charming mid-range accommodation that combines comfort, colonial character, and modern amenities, making it a popular choice for travellers exploring this historic Bolivian city. Housed in a beautifully preserved colonial-style building, the hotel features warm wooden interiors, elegant archways, and a tranquil central courtyard that creates a peaceful atmosphere away from the bustling streets. Rooms are well-appointed with comfortable beds, traditional décor, private bathrooms, and reliable Wi-Fi, offering a cosy retreat after a day spent visiting the city’s UNESCO-listed mines, churches, and museums. Guests can enjoy a hearty complimentary breakfast each morning, often featuring fresh bread, fruit, and Bolivian specialities, while the on-site restaurant also serves a range of local and international dishes. The staff are known for their friendliness and helpfulness, providing assistance with tours, transport, and insider tips on the best places to visit in Potosí. Conveniently located just a short walk from the Plaza 10 de Noviembre and many of the city’s main attractions, Hotel Santa Mónica offers an ideal blend of authenticity, comfort, and accessibility, making it a reliable base for both leisure and business visitors who want to experience the rich culture and history of Potosí
2. Luxury – Hostal Patrimonio
Hostal Patrimonio in Potosí is a charming boutique-style accommodation that combines comfort, history and warm Bolivian hospitality in the heart of the city. Set within a beautifully restored colonial building, the hostal retains much of its original character, with wooden beams, antique furnishings and traditional architectural details that reflect Potosí’s rich past as one of the world’s most important silver mining centres. Its central location, just a short walk from the Plaza 10 de Noviembre and the city’s main attractions, makes it an ideal base for exploring the UNESCO-listed historic centre, with its ornate churches, vibrant markets and cobbled streets. Guests can expect spacious and tastefully decorated rooms equipped with modern amenities such as heating, Wi-Fi and comfortable bedding, ensuring a restful stay despite the city’s often chilly high-altitude climate. A generous breakfast is served each morning, featuring fresh local produce, and the friendly staff are always on hand to provide helpful travel tips, arrange tours to the famous Cerro Rico mines, or assist with onward travel plans. Whether visiting Potosí for its unique colonial heritage, cultural landmarks or to experience life at over 4,000 metres above sea level, Hostal Patrimonio offers both comfort and authenticity in one of Bolivia’s most fascinating destinations.
3. Budget – Hotel Virreyes
The Virreyes Hotel in Potosí offers a comfortable and welcoming stay for travellers who wish to explore one of Bolivia’s most historic cities. Centrally located, the hotel places guests within walking distance of the city’s colonial architecture, bustling markets, and iconic landmarks such as the Casa de la Moneda and the Cathedral. The property combines modern conveniences with a traditional charm, featuring clean and spacious rooms equipped with private bathrooms, Wi-Fi, and reliable hot water – a valuable asset in Potosí’s cool climate. Guests appreciate the friendly and attentive staff who provide helpful local advice and ensure a smooth stay, whether arranging tours to the famous Cerro Rico mines or recommending authentic dining spots in the city. The hotel also offers an on-site restaurant and breakfast service, making it a practical choice for those who prefer convenience and comfort. With its good value for money, central position, and dependable amenities, Virreyes Hotel serves as an excellent base for both leisure and cultural exploration in Potosí.
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