Potosí, once one of the wealthiest cities in the world due to its vast silver mines, is today a high-altitude Bolivian city where colonial architecture, mining heritage, and everyday local life come together in a striking yet often challenging environment.
Bolivia: La Paz’s colourful General Cemetery
My day began with a bumpy little adventure that is almost a rite of passage in La Paz — boarding a collectivo. These minibuses, painted in cheerful but somewhat fading colours, rattle noisily up and down the steep streets, always packed with an unlikely assortment of passengers. The driver, multitasking between honking, shouting out the route, and negotiating hair-raising traffic, somehow manages to get everyone where they need to go. For a modest handful of coins, we were whisked off towards the city’s General Cemetery.
At the entrance, my guide paid the small visitor’s fee — one of those curious local rules that distinguishes between mourners and mere sightseers like ourselves. The price was hardly extravagant, but it made us acutely aware that we were stepping into a space where grief, history and tradition coexist.
A Vertical City of the Dead
Now, this was not the sleepy English churchyard of our imagination. Instead of neat rows of grassy plots with headstones leaning gently in the wind, here were walls. Great towering walls lined with tombs, stacked six high like the drawers of a giant filing cabinet for the departed. Each coffin was sealed into its compartment with cement, but a small niche was left open — a little shelf to serve as a shrine.
Some were lovingly enclosed with glass, others were open to the elements, but all were decorated with touching fragments of lives once lived. Families placed photos, favourite trinkets, and offerings: a child’s teddy bear, a small toy car, a football scarf. The most heart-wrenching were those belonging to children, their tiny spaces filled with dolls and sweets, symbols of a life cut far too short.
Renting Eternity
Practicalities, of course, never sleep. Unlike the plots in many Western cemeteries, these tombs are not owned outright. They are rented — the lower compartments cheaper, the lofty upper tiers more costly, not least because they require ladders. Women with entrepreneurial spirit rent these out to families, with prices rising in direct proportion to height.
If payments fall behind, a stark notice is pinned up. After a grace period, the remains are removed, cremated, and families have one month to collect the ashes. If nobody comes, the ashes are scattered. It sounds harsh, but with limited space and a growing city, such measures are deemed necessary. No set of remains may rest here for longer than five years, which perhaps says something about the unrelenting cycle of life and death in La Paz.
Murals, Lightning, and Living Walls
One of the most striking features of the cemetery is its outer walls, which are covered in vivid murals. You might expect sombre scenes, but instead the paintings are colourful, lively, and celebratory, depicting religious motifs, everyday Bolivian life, and figures from folklore. It feels more like wandering through an open-air art gallery than a graveyard. The effect is oddly comforting: grief softened by colour, memory expressed through paint.
Among the more unusual sights is a gnarled old tree that once stood proudly at the heart of the cemetery. Some years ago, it was struck by lightning, splitting its trunk and leaving behind a twisted, scarred stump. Local lore holds that the tree absorbed not just the lightning but the spirits of those buried nearby. For many, it became a sacred site within the cemetery, a reminder that even nature participates in the cycle of death and remembrance.
Rituals of the Living and the Dead
As we walked between the rows of tombs, my guide explained how Bolivians approach death with a continuity that feels very different from our own quiet, buttoned-up customs. Death here is not a final severance but an ongoing dialogue.
The season of remembrance begins with Todos Santos on 1 November and Día de los Difuntos on 2 November. Families build altars at home, laying out flowers, food, and specially baked breads to welcome the souls of ancestors. This is not metaphorical: the belief is that the spirits do indeed return for a brief visit, nourished by the offerings left for them.
But Bolivia takes matters a step further with Día de las Ñatitas on 8 November. The Ñatitas, meaning “snub-nosed” in Aymara slang, are not papier-mâché festival masks but actual human skulls. Some belong to family members; others are acquired by less clear means and passed down through households. Families who keep Ñatitas regard them as guardians. On this day, the skulls are cleaned, polished, and adorned with hats, sunglasses, flowers, and in some cases a cigarette. They are taken to church or back to the General Cemetery, where they receive blessings from priests and offerings of coca leaves, alcohol, and candles. It is as much celebration as it is commemoration, and if it sounds unsettling to outsiders, it is considered entirely natural in Bolivia.
Bread, Altars, and Ladders to the Afterlife
Bread is central to these rituals. The most recognisable form is the Tantawawa, a loaf shaped like a swaddled infant and decorated with a sugar face. These breads symbolise the departed souls and are placed on family altars alongside flowers, fruit, and photographs. Some families also make small bread ladders, giving the spirits a means of climbing between the world of the living and the beyond. The symbolism is both practical and tender — why leave your ancestor stranded when you can bake them a ladder?
The days from 2 to 8 November form a bridge between Catholic feast days and ancient Andean traditions. Altars filled with fruit and flowers on the first days are gradually replaced by skulls and offerings by the eighth. Bread and bones, sweetness and mortality, entwined in rituals that make memory tangible.
Final Thoughts
Visiting the General Cemetery of La Paz was not a gloomy experience, but rather a reminder of how differently cultures approach death. In this place, sorrow is mingled with colour, ritual, practicality, and even humour. Skulls wear sunglasses, tombs require ladders, and bread shaped like babies sits proudly beside candles and flowers.
It is a cemetery that feels alive — a place where memory is constantly refreshed and where the line between the living and the dead is neither sharp nor final. In its murals, shrines, and celebrations, La Paz has created a resting place that is anything but still.
Planning your visit to La Paz’s General Cemetary
📍 Location
The General Cemetery (Cementerio General) is located in the northern part of La Paz, in the Miraflores district. Its exact address is Av. Baptista, La Paz, Bolivia. The site is easily recognisable thanks to its large white gateway and the surrounding busy streets.
🚌 How to Get There
Reaching the cemetery is straightforward:
By collectivo or minibus: Simply hop on one of the ubiquitous minibuses marked Cementerio, which rattle through the city centre and drop you right at the main gate.
By taxi: A convenient option, though do make sure the driver uses the metre or agree on a price before setting off.
On foot: If you’re staying in the city centre and enjoy a brisk walk uphill, it’s possible to reach it on foot in around 30–40 minutes.
🌐 Website & Contact Details
Website: La Paz General Cemetery (official municipal site, Spanish only)
Email: info@gob.bo
Telephone: +591 2 222 2333
🕒 Opening Hours
The cemetery is open daily:
Monday to Sunday: 9:00 am – 5:00 pm
🎟️ Entry Fees
Tourists: A modest entrance fee of around 5–10 Bolivianos (less than £1).
Locals visiting relatives: Free of charge.
Getting around La Paz
🚡 Cable Cars (Mi Teleférico)
One of the most unique and scenic ways to get around La Paz is by using the Mi Teleférico cable car network. Stretching across the city and linking to neighbouring El Alto, these brightly coloured gondolas offer incredible views of the mountains, valleys, and the bustling city below. They are efficient, inexpensive, and a far less stressful alternative to negotiating the crowded streets by car. Each line has its own colour, and connections between them are easy to follow.
🚌 Minibuses and Shared Taxis
For a truly local experience, visitors can hop on the ubiquitous minibuses and colectivos (shared taxis). They criss-cross the city and beyond, each following set routes marked on their windshields. Fares are very cheap, though they can be confusing for newcomers and crowded at peak hours. It’s best to ask locals or your accommodation for advice on which routes to take.
🚕 Regular Taxis
Taxis are plentiful in La Paz, but it is wise to choose radio taxis (booked by phone or through your hotel) rather than hailing one off the street, as they are safer and more reliable. They are more expensive than minibuses but still affordable compared to European prices. Always agree the fare before setting off, as most taxis don’t use metres.
🚶 Walking
While La Paz is a fascinating city to explore on foot, the steep hills and high altitude can make walking challenging. Short strolls around the central areas, such as Plaza Murillo or the Witches’ Market, are manageable and rewarding. Just remember to take it slowly, stay hydrated, and allow time to catch your breath.
🚗 Private Tours and Transfers
For those who prefer convenience and comfort, booking private transfers or tours can be an excellent option. Many operators provide hotel pick-ups and guided transport, especially useful for excursions outside the city such as Valle de la Luna or Tiwanaku. Though pricier than public transport, this option removes the stress of navigating and allows more time to enjoy the sights.
Eating out for vegans in La Paz
🌿 Ali Pacha – City Centre
Perhaps the most celebrated vegan restaurant in La Paz, Ali Pacha is a fine-dining spot that reimagines traditional Bolivian ingredients with a modern, plant-based twist. Expect beautifully presented tasting menus, with dishes showcasing Andean roots, grains, and herbs in surprising ways. A real treat for foodies.
📍 Address: Calle Colón 1306, La Paz
🌐 Website: alipacha.com
📸 Instagram: @ali_pacha
🍜 Red Monkey – Sopocachi
This lively café in the artsy Sopocachi neighbourhood serves up a mix of international vegan dishes alongside excellent coffee. Their veggie burgers, falafel wraps, and smoothie bowls are popular choices, and the casual setting makes it a great place to hang out.
📍 Address: Rosendo Gutiérrez 832, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @redmonkeylapaz
🛒 Sana Sana – Health Shop & Deli
Sana Sana doubles as a health food shop and vegan-friendly café. Stock up on plant-based essentials like nut butters, kombucha, and cruelty-free snacks, or grab a wholesome meal such as quinoa bowls, soups, and salads. Ideal for those staying longer in the city.
📍 Address: Calle Belisario Salinas 360, Sopocachi, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @sanasanalapaz
🍽️ Namas Te – Sopocachi
A cosy vegetarian café with plenty of vegan options, Namas Te is a favourite for its relaxed vibe and nourishing food. Think lentil stews, curry bowls, and fresh juices. It’s also a popular spot for yoga enthusiasts and creatives in the area.
📍 Address: Av. 6 de Agosto 2535, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @namaste_lapaz
🧁 Café Vida – San Miguel
Tucked away in the upmarket San Miguel district, Café Vida is known for its excellent vegan cakes and healthy brunches. Expect treats like banana bread, raw chocolate desserts, and quality coffee with almond or soy milk. A perfect stop for a sweet indulgence.
📍 Address: Calle Montenegro 984, San Miguel, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @cafevidabolivia
🥙 Sabor Vegan – Fast & Fresh
If you’re after quick, tasty vegan bites, Sabor Vegan is a small but mighty fast food option. They offer plant-based burgers, wraps, and bowls with bold seasoning and hearty portions. Great for a casual meal on the go.
📍 Address: Calle Murillo 972, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @saborvegan
🌱 Jugospace – Juices & Smoothies
A cheerful juice bar serving cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and light vegan snacks. Perfect for a refreshing break during sightseeing or to fuel up before tackling the steep streets of La Paz.
📍 Address: Calle Linares 906, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @jugospace
The best time to visit La Paz
🌸 Spring (September–November) – Best Time to Visit
Weather: Mild and sunny (10–20°C)
Crowds: Moderate
Highlights: Clear skies, colourful markets, and excellent conditions for exploring the city and nearby valleys.
Why Go: Spring in La Paz is crisp, bright, and full of life. It’s a wonderful season for strolling through plazas, riding the cable cars for sweeping mountain views, and heading out to Lake Titicaca or the Valle de la Luna without extremes of heat or rain.
🌿 Ideal for walkers, photographers, and those who enjoy lively street life.
☀️ Summer (December–February)
Weather: Rainy and humid (8–18°C)
Crowds: Lower – some visitors avoid the rains.
Highlights: Carnival celebrations, lush green landscapes, and dramatic cloudscapes rolling across the Andes.
Caution: Afternoon downpours can be heavy, with slippery streets and occasional travel disruptions.
🧴 Bring a waterproof jacket and good shoes.
☔ Plan indoor visits – museums, markets, and cafés – for rainy spells.
🍂 Autumn (March–May) – Another Excellent Option
Weather: Cool and dry (7–18°C)
Crowds: Moderate but thinning towards May.
Highlights: Crystal-clear skies with snow-dusted peaks, perfect for photography. The city feels calm after the rains, and day trips to Tiwanaku or hiking in the Yungas are especially rewarding.
📷 Great for photographers and culture seekers.
🍲 Combine your visit with hearty Bolivian food – autumn evenings suit steaming bowls of sopa de maní.
❄️ Winter (June–August)
Weather: Cold and dry (0–15°C, nights often below freezing)
Crowds: High – peak tourist season.
Highlights: Brilliantly blue skies, excellent trekking conditions, and bustling festivals such as Gran Poder in June.
⚠️ Nights can be very cold – bring layers.
🔭 The dry air makes for superb stargazing.
✅ Summary
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Experience | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mild 🌤️ | Moderate | Colourful, lively, perfect for walks | ⭐ Best |
| ☀️ Summer | Wet 🌧️ | Light | Festive, green, dramatic | ⚠️ Variable |
| 🍂 Autumn | Cool 🌥️ | Light–Moderate | Crisp, clear, cultural | ✅ Great |
| ❄️ Winter | Cold ❄️ | Busy | Bright, festive, trekking | 🎯 Adventurous |
Where to stay in La Paz
Sopocachi – Trendy and Cultural
Sopocachi is one of the most popular neighbourhoods for visitors who want a mix of modern comforts and local flair. It has a bohemian vibe, with leafy squares, independent cafés, lively bars, and plenty of restaurants serving both Bolivian and international cuisine. The area is also well known for its art galleries and cultural spaces, making it a good choice for travellers who like to be close to the creative heartbeat of the city. Many boutique hotels and guesthouses are tucked away in its quiet streets, while the Teleférico (cable car) offers quick and scenic access to other parts of La Paz.
San Pedro – Central and Convenient
Located near the city centre, San Pedro is a bustling area that puts you within walking distance of many of La Paz’s main attractions, including the famous Witches’ Market, Plaza Murillo, and Calle Jaén. It’s a lively neighbourhood, with plenty of budget-friendly accommodation options, local markets, and street food stalls. While it can feel busy and a little chaotic at times, it’s ideal for travellers who want to be at the heart of the action and don’t mind a bit of noise.
Downtown La Paz – For First-Time Visitors
If it’s your first time in La Paz, staying downtown might be the easiest option. Here you’ll find a wide range of hotels, from budget hostels to mid-range and more comfortable stays, all close to transport links and tour operators. Being central means it’s easy to join day trips to the Valley of the Moon, Tiwanaku, or Lake Titicaca. The area can feel crowded and commercial, but its convenience and accessibility make it a safe bet for newcomers.
Zona Sur – Comfortable and Upmarket
For those seeking more comfort, Zona Sur is an attractive alternative. Situated at a lower altitude than the city centre, it has a slightly milder climate and is considered the more affluent side of La Paz. Here you’ll find luxury hotels, modern apartments, shopping centres, and international restaurants. It’s not as central as Sopocachi or downtown, but it’s quieter and offers a more relaxed base for travellers who prefer a calmer environment. Taxis and cable cars make it easy to get back into the city centre when needed.
Miraflores – Balanced and Family-Friendly
Miraflores is a solid choice for travellers who want a balance between convenience and calm. It’s home to several parks, the Hernando Siles Stadium, and some good mid-range hotels. The neighbourhood is less touristy than downtown or Sopocachi, which means it feels more authentic and residential, yet still has enough restaurants and shops to keep you comfortable. It’s a good area for families or anyone who prefers a quieter base while still being within easy reach of the main sights.
1. Mid Range: Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique
I recently stayed at the Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique in La Paz and was thoroughly impressed by the experience. The hotel has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with beautifully designed interiors that feel both stylish and comfortable. The staff were absolutely lovely, always friendly and attentive, which made the stay all the more enjoyable. One of the highlights is the location, which couldn’t be better – right next to the Teleférico, making it easy to get around the city, and just by Plaza España, which adds a pleasant local charm. It’s a perfect base for exploring La Paz, offering both convenience and comfort in equal measure.
2. Luxury – Atix Hotel
The Atix Hotel in La Paz is a striking example of contemporary Bolivian design, blending modern luxury with a strong sense of cultural identity. Situated in the upscale neighbourhood of Calacoto, it stands out not only for its sleek glass façade but also for its celebration of Bolivian heritage, with art and design elements inspired by the country’s landscapes and traditions. Inside, the hotel showcases works by renowned local artists, giving each space a distinctly Bolivian character while maintaining an international standard of comfort. Rooms are stylishly appointed, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and city, and the rooftop pool and bar provide one of the best vantage points in La Paz to enjoy the dramatic scenery. With its thoughtful balance of sophistication and authenticity, the Atix Hotel offers visitors a refined yet deeply rooted experience of Bolivia’s capital.
3. Budget – The Rooftop Bolivia
The Rooftop Bolivia in La Paz is a lively and stylish spot that has become a favourite with both travellers and locals thanks to its unbeatable views of the city and surrounding mountains. Perched high above the bustling streets, it offers a relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere where you can enjoy panoramic vistas of the sprawling cityscape, framed by the dramatic peaks of the Andes. The space is modern and welcoming, with comfortable seating areas perfect for socialising, unwinding with a drink, or simply soaking up the energy of La Paz from above. Known for its friendly vibe, upbeat music, and a mix of international visitors, The Rooftop has established itself as more than just a bar – it’s a social hub where people come together to share travel stories, meet new friends, and take in one of the most memorable views in the city.
More to Explore
