Potosí, once one of the wealthiest cities in the world due to its vast silver mines, is today a high-altitude Bolivian city where colonial architecture, mining heritage, and everyday local life come together in a striking yet often challenging environment.
Bolivia: Take a walking tour to see the Cholets of El Alto
🚶 Setting Out for the Day
This morning began with the knowledge that I had two tours lined up, one after the other, and I was looking forward to what promised to be a very full day. The first was a walking exploration of El Alto, a city that sits high above La Paz and is in many ways a city of its own. The draw for me was the chance to see, in person, the much-talked-about “cholets”. These flamboyant and colourful buildings have been appearing across El Alto for just over two decades, and while I had read about them and seen the occasional picture, I wanted to stand in front of them myself and get a real sense of what they represent.
The meeting point for the morning was the Obelisco station on the purple line of the teleférico, La Paz’s cable car network. It would have been possible to ride the cable car to reach the station, but the route involved an awkward loop of ups and downs before returning to the same level. As the distance was only two and a half kilometres, I decided to walk. I already knew the way, a mostly flat and simple path, and the morning was clear and cool. It made for a pleasant and unhurried stroll, and I found myself arriving with plenty of time to spare.
👥 Meeting the Group
At the station I met the others who would be joining me on this tour. Our guide, a friendly local with an easy manner, soon introduced herself. The group was small – just myself and a young Polish couple who, like me, were travelling through Bolivia to see as much as they could. We quickly fell into conversation, exchanging the usual traveller’s details about where we had been and where we were heading next. With introductions done, we boarded the purple line of the cable car and began the steady ascent towards El Alto. The ride gave us sweeping views across the city of La Paz, the houses clinging to the slopes like a vast patchwork. At the junction, we transferred to the blue line and before long we were stepping out into the bustle of El Alto itself.
🏢 First Sight of the Cholets
The first cholet I saw is something I will not forget. These buildings stand out dramatically against the backdrop of El Alto, which is otherwise a sea of plain brick and concrete. The word “cholet” is derived from “chalet”, but adapted here to reflect the culture and ambitions of the Aymara people, who form the majority population of El Alto.
The creator of the style is Freddy Mamani, a self-taught architect who began designing them in the early 2000s. His buildings are explosions of colour and shape. Deep reds, vivid greens, golden yellows and electric blues seem to compete for attention, while the shapes themselves are drawn from Andean motifs, many inspired by the ancient Tiwanaku civilisation. The guide explained that Mamani wanted to design structures that reflected indigenous pride and identity. To walk past one is to see a building that is not only a home but also a statement.
🏠 The Layout and Purpose
A typical cholet has its own internal logic. The ground floor usually serves as commercial space, rented out to shops or businesses to provide steady income. Above that, on the first floor, one usually finds the grand event hall. These are large, lavishly decorated spaces where weddings, fiestas, and community gatherings take place. The decoration is often dazzling – chandeliers hanging from the ceilings, mirrored walls reflecting bright lights, and tiles in geometric patterns. It is not unusual for such a hall to host several hundred guests at a time.
Above the event hall sit the private quarters of the family. Apartments and rooms are decorated with equal flair, and in some cases the top floor contains a penthouse that looks more like a mansion, complete with terraces giving views across the Altiplano. For many Aymara families, this is the true prize – a physical display of prosperity that sets them apart.
🎨 Originals and Imitations
Not all cholets are equal. Our guide pointed out the difference between the genuine Mamani creations and the later imitations. The originals are rooted in symbolism and tradition, with colours and patterns connected to Aymara culture. The copies, sometimes mockingly called “transformers”, are more cartoonish. They mimic the bright colours but lack the deeper cultural grounding, ending up as flashy exaggerations. Still, whether original or imitation, they all declare the owner’s success. It is said there are now several hundred cholets across El Alto, many owned by traders, transport operators or business families who have prospered in the city.
🚐 Moving Through the City
After walking past several fine examples, we squeezed into a collectivo minibus, the workhorse of transport in La Paz and El Alto. These shared taxis are inexpensive, quick, and always packed to the brim with passengers. Despite the cramped conditions, there is an easy rhythm to them, and within minutes we were in another part of the city. From there we continued on foot to see more of the cholets.
✨ Inside a Cholet
The highlight of the morning was the chance to step inside one of the cholets. The exterior was impressive enough, but the interior was truly eye-catching. The main hall was vast, with polished tiles that gleamed under bright lights, mirrors on every wall, and a stage at one end ready for musicians. It was easy to imagine the space filled with hundreds of guests, the music loud, and the dancing going on into the small hours.
It was here that our guide explained some of the traditions surrounding Bolivian weddings. These celebrations are not short affairs but stretch across two full days. Guests are expected to bring offerings, the most basic being two crates of beer – a contribution that is carefully noted on arrival. Money is also given, often pinned directly onto the bride or groom during the festivities. Everything is recorded, and it is vital that the total number of gifts is even. Even numbers are thought to bring good fortune, while odd numbers suggest bad luck. If the count is uneven, the godparents are expected to step in quietly, buying an extra gift with some of the collected money, so that the final tally is even and fortune restored.
🛑 Journey’s End
After leaving the cholet, we once again climbed into a collectivo and made our way back towards the cable car station. Here we said our farewells. The Polish couple were continuing their travels northwards, while I made my way back down towards the centre of La Paz. From the cable car I watched as the vast sprawl of El Alto slowly fell away beneath me, its brick houses, busy streets and brilliant cholets stretching to the horizon.
💭 Final Thoughts
Seeing the cholets of El Alto was more than just admiring unusual architecture. These buildings are symbols of a people who have claimed their place in modern Bolivia, expressing identity and ambition in bold colours and shapes. For me, it was a morning well spent – a glimpse into a culture that takes pride in its traditions while at the same time creating something strikingly new.
Planning your visit to the Cholets of El Alto
📍 Location
El Alto sits directly above La Paz on the Altiplano plateau, at over 4,000 metres above sea level. The famous cholets—extravagant, colourful, mansion-like buildings designed by architect Freddy Mamani—are scattered across the city, especially in the northern and central districts.
🚗 How to Get There
From La Paz: Take the Mi Teleférico cable car (Red or Yellow line) up to El Alto. The ride offers spectacular views of the city and surrounding mountains.
By Minibus: Shared minibuses leave frequently from La Paz city centre and arrive in El Alto in about 30 minutes.
Walking Tours: Several local companies and guides offer tours that include history, architecture, and cultural context.
💡 Useful Tips
Hire a Local Guide: A guide can help explain the symbolism, cultural significance, and introduce you to owners of some cholets.
Dress Warmly: El Alto is colder and windier than La Paz due to its altitude.
Take it Slow: At over 4,000 m, the altitude can affect breathing—pace yourself.
Best Time to Visit: Morning or early afternoon, when light highlights the bright façades.
Safety: Stick to well-travelled areas and go with a guide if possible.
Photography: Always ask permission before photographing private properties or people.
Getting around La Paz
🚡 Cable Cars (Mi Teleférico)
One of the most unique and scenic ways to get around La Paz is by using the Mi Teleférico cable car network. Stretching across the city and linking to neighbouring El Alto, these brightly coloured gondolas offer incredible views of the mountains, valleys, and the bustling city below. They are efficient, inexpensive, and a far less stressful alternative to negotiating the crowded streets by car. Each line has its own colour, and connections between them are easy to follow.
🚌 Minibuses and Shared Taxis
For a truly local experience, visitors can hop on the ubiquitous minibuses and colectivos (shared taxis). They criss-cross the city and beyond, each following set routes marked on their windshields. Fares are very cheap, though they can be confusing for newcomers and crowded at peak hours. It’s best to ask locals or your accommodation for advice on which routes to take.
🚕 Regular Taxis
Taxis are plentiful in La Paz, but it is wise to choose radio taxis (booked by phone or through your hotel) rather than hailing one off the street, as they are safer and more reliable. They are more expensive than minibuses but still affordable compared to European prices. Always agree the fare before setting off, as most taxis don’t use metres.
🚶 Walking
While La Paz is a fascinating city to explore on foot, the steep hills and high altitude can make walking challenging. Short strolls around the central areas, such as Plaza Murillo or the Witches’ Market, are manageable and rewarding. Just remember to take it slowly, stay hydrated, and allow time to catch your breath.
🚗 Private Tours and Transfers
For those who prefer convenience and comfort, booking private transfers or tours can be an excellent option. Many operators provide hotel pick-ups and guided transport, especially useful for excursions outside the city such as Valle de la Luna or Tiwanaku. Though pricier than public transport, this option removes the stress of navigating and allows more time to enjoy the sights.
Eating out for vegans in La Paz
🌿 Ali Pacha – City Centre
Perhaps the most celebrated vegan restaurant in La Paz, Ali Pacha is a fine-dining spot that reimagines traditional Bolivian ingredients with a modern, plant-based twist. Expect beautifully presented tasting menus, with dishes showcasing Andean roots, grains, and herbs in surprising ways. A real treat for foodies.
📍 Address: Calle Colón 1306, La Paz
🌐 Website: alipacha.com
📸 Instagram: @ali_pacha
🍜 Red Monkey – Sopocachi
This lively café in the artsy Sopocachi neighbourhood serves up a mix of international vegan dishes alongside excellent coffee. Their veggie burgers, falafel wraps, and smoothie bowls are popular choices, and the casual setting makes it a great place to hang out.
📍 Address: Rosendo Gutiérrez 832, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @redmonkeylapaz
🛒 Sana Sana – Health Shop & Deli
Sana Sana doubles as a health food shop and vegan-friendly café. Stock up on plant-based essentials like nut butters, kombucha, and cruelty-free snacks, or grab a wholesome meal such as quinoa bowls, soups, and salads. Ideal for those staying longer in the city.
📍 Address: Calle Belisario Salinas 360, Sopocachi, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @sanasanalapaz
🍽️ Namas Te – Sopocachi
A cosy vegetarian café with plenty of vegan options, Namas Te is a favourite for its relaxed vibe and nourishing food. Think lentil stews, curry bowls, and fresh juices. It’s also a popular spot for yoga enthusiasts and creatives in the area.
📍 Address: Av. 6 de Agosto 2535, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @namaste_lapaz
🧁 Café Vida – San Miguel
Tucked away in the upmarket San Miguel district, Café Vida is known for its excellent vegan cakes and healthy brunches. Expect treats like banana bread, raw chocolate desserts, and quality coffee with almond or soy milk. A perfect stop for a sweet indulgence.
📍 Address: Calle Montenegro 984, San Miguel, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @cafevidabolivia
🥙 Sabor Vegan – Fast & Fresh
If you’re after quick, tasty vegan bites, Sabor Vegan is a small but mighty fast food option. They offer plant-based burgers, wraps, and bowls with bold seasoning and hearty portions. Great for a casual meal on the go.
📍 Address: Calle Murillo 972, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @saborvegan
🌱 Jugospace – Juices & Smoothies
A cheerful juice bar serving cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and light vegan snacks. Perfect for a refreshing break during sightseeing or to fuel up before tackling the steep streets of La Paz.
📍 Address: Calle Linares 906, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @jugospace
The best time to visit La Paz
🌸 Spring (September–November) – Best Time to Visit
Weather: Mild and sunny (10–20°C)
Crowds: Moderate
Highlights: Clear skies, colourful markets, and excellent conditions for exploring the city and nearby valleys.
Why Go: Spring in La Paz is crisp, bright, and full of life. It’s a wonderful season for strolling through plazas, riding the cable cars for sweeping mountain views, and heading out to Lake Titicaca or the Valle de la Luna without extremes of heat or rain.
🌿 Ideal for walkers, photographers, and those who enjoy lively street life.
☀️ Summer (December–February)
Weather: Rainy and humid (8–18°C)
Crowds: Lower – some visitors avoid the rains.
Highlights: Carnival celebrations, lush green landscapes, and dramatic cloudscapes rolling across the Andes.
Caution: Afternoon downpours can be heavy, with slippery streets and occasional travel disruptions.
🧴 Bring a waterproof jacket and good shoes.
☔ Plan indoor visits – museums, markets, and cafés – for rainy spells.
🍂 Autumn (March–May) – Another Excellent Option
Weather: Cool and dry (7–18°C)
Crowds: Moderate but thinning towards May.
Highlights: Crystal-clear skies with snow-dusted peaks, perfect for photography. The city feels calm after the rains, and day trips to Tiwanaku or hiking in the Yungas are especially rewarding.
📷 Great for photographers and culture seekers.
🍲 Combine your visit with hearty Bolivian food – autumn evenings suit steaming bowls of sopa de maní.
❄️ Winter (June–August)
Weather: Cold and dry (0–15°C, nights often below freezing)
Crowds: High – peak tourist season.
Highlights: Brilliantly blue skies, excellent trekking conditions, and bustling festivals such as Gran Poder in June.
⚠️ Nights can be very cold – bring layers.
🔭 The dry air makes for superb stargazing.
✅ Summary
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Experience | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mild 🌤️ | Moderate | Colourful, lively, perfect for walks | ⭐ Best |
| ☀️ Summer | Wet 🌧️ | Light | Festive, green, dramatic | ⚠️ Variable |
| 🍂 Autumn | Cool 🌥️ | Light–Moderate | Crisp, clear, cultural | ✅ Great |
| ❄️ Winter | Cold ❄️ | Busy | Bright, festive, trekking | 🎯 Adventurous |
Where to stay in La Paz
Sopocachi – Trendy and Cultural
Sopocachi is one of the most popular neighbourhoods for visitors who want a mix of modern comforts and local flair. It has a bohemian vibe, with leafy squares, independent cafés, lively bars, and plenty of restaurants serving both Bolivian and international cuisine. The area is also well known for its art galleries and cultural spaces, making it a good choice for travellers who like to be close to the creative heartbeat of the city. Many boutique hotels and guesthouses are tucked away in its quiet streets, while the Teleférico (cable car) offers quick and scenic access to other parts of La Paz.
San Pedro – Central and Convenient
Located near the city centre, San Pedro is a bustling area that puts you within walking distance of many of La Paz’s main attractions, including the famous Witches’ Market, Plaza Murillo, and Calle Jaén. It’s a lively neighbourhood, with plenty of budget-friendly accommodation options, local markets, and street food stalls. While it can feel busy and a little chaotic at times, it’s ideal for travellers who want to be at the heart of the action and don’t mind a bit of noise.
Downtown La Paz – For First-Time Visitors
If it’s your first time in La Paz, staying downtown might be the easiest option. Here you’ll find a wide range of hotels, from budget hostels to mid-range and more comfortable stays, all close to transport links and tour operators. Being central means it’s easy to join day trips to the Valley of the Moon, Tiwanaku, or Lake Titicaca. The area can feel crowded and commercial, but its convenience and accessibility make it a safe bet for newcomers.
Zona Sur – Comfortable and Upmarket
For those seeking more comfort, Zona Sur is an attractive alternative. Situated at a lower altitude than the city centre, it has a slightly milder climate and is considered the more affluent side of La Paz. Here you’ll find luxury hotels, modern apartments, shopping centres, and international restaurants. It’s not as central as Sopocachi or downtown, but it’s quieter and offers a more relaxed base for travellers who prefer a calmer environment. Taxis and cable cars make it easy to get back into the city centre when needed.
Miraflores – Balanced and Family-Friendly
Miraflores is a solid choice for travellers who want a balance between convenience and calm. It’s home to several parks, the Hernando Siles Stadium, and some good mid-range hotels. The neighbourhood is less touristy than downtown or Sopocachi, which means it feels more authentic and residential, yet still has enough restaurants and shops to keep you comfortable. It’s a good area for families or anyone who prefers a quieter base while still being within easy reach of the main sights.
1. Mid Range: Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique
I recently stayed at the Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique in La Paz and was thoroughly impressed by the experience. The hotel has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with beautifully designed interiors that feel both stylish and comfortable. The staff were absolutely lovely, always friendly and attentive, which made the stay all the more enjoyable. One of the highlights is the location, which couldn’t be better – right next to the Teleférico, making it easy to get around the city, and just by Plaza España, which adds a pleasant local charm. It’s a perfect base for exploring La Paz, offering both convenience and comfort in equal measure.
2. Luxury – Atix Hotel
The Atix Hotel in La Paz is a striking example of contemporary Bolivian design, blending modern luxury with a strong sense of cultural identity. Situated in the upscale neighbourhood of Calacoto, it stands out not only for its sleek glass façade but also for its celebration of Bolivian heritage, with art and design elements inspired by the country’s landscapes and traditions. Inside, the hotel showcases works by renowned local artists, giving each space a distinctly Bolivian character while maintaining an international standard of comfort. Rooms are stylishly appointed, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and city, and the rooftop pool and bar provide one of the best vantage points in La Paz to enjoy the dramatic scenery. With its thoughtful balance of sophistication and authenticity, the Atix Hotel offers visitors a refined yet deeply rooted experience of Bolivia’s capital.
3. Budget – The Rooftop Bolivia
The Rooftop Bolivia in La Paz is a lively and stylish spot that has become a favourite with both travellers and locals thanks to its unbeatable views of the city and surrounding mountains. Perched high above the bustling streets, it offers a relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere where you can enjoy panoramic vistas of the sprawling cityscape, framed by the dramatic peaks of the Andes. The space is modern and welcoming, with comfortable seating areas perfect for socialising, unwinding with a drink, or simply soaking up the energy of La Paz from above. Known for its friendly vibe, upbeat music, and a mix of international visitors, The Rooftop has established itself as more than just a bar – it’s a social hub where people come together to share travel stories, meet new friends, and take in one of the most memorable views in the city.
More to Explore
