Bolivia: Cocabana and the mysterious Isla del Sol

Copacabana – and let’s get this out of the way immediately – has absolutely nothing to do with Barry Manilow’s nightclub anthem. No dancing showgirls, no glitter, no sequins. What it does have is an extraordinary position on the shores of Lake Titicaca, one of the world’s highest navigable lakes and, if you ask me, one of the most striking.

The town itself is modest. A bit ramshackle in places, yes, but full of charm. Life here beats to a mixture of rhythms – the slow shuffle of pilgrims heading towards the church, the chatter of backpackers comparing bus tickets, and the timeless lapping of the lake against the shore. This is a town where the sacred, the practical and the touristy all meet in a slightly chaotic but oddly pleasing fashion.

⛪ The Basilica and the Car Blessings

The big landmark in Copacabana is the Basilica of Our Lady of Copacabana. From the outside, it looks like someone lifted a Spanish church and dropped it squarely into Bolivia – dazzling white walls, domes, and a dash of Moorish influence.

It’s not just for show either. This basilica houses the statue of the Virgin of Copacabana, Bolivia’s patron saint. Pilgrims travel from all over the country to pay their respects. And here’s the bit that raised my eyebrows: people bring their cars, vans, and even buses to be blessed outside. Picture the scene – rows of vehicles lined up, decorated with flowers and ribbons, and then doused with holy water. Sometimes the blessing is completed with a bottle of beer poured generously over the bonnet. I’ve never seen a Ford Fiesta made holy quite like it.

🍴 Lunch with a View

After wandering about, we made our way down to the lakeside for lunch. Restaurants line the waterfront, most with terraces promising “the best views of Lake Titicaca” – and for once, they’re not exaggerating. I climbed to the upper floor of our chosen spot and sat down to a view that was, frankly, better than the food.

The lake shimmered in the midday light, stretching out towards Peru on the far side. Boats bobbed lazily in the water, waiting for the afternoon’s tourists. The meal was perfectly serviceable – trout from the lake, naturally – but it was really the view that made it memorable. Sometimes the plate doesn’t matter quite so much when the backdrop does all the heavy lifting.

🚤 Boat to Isla del Sol

Fed and watered, we gathered at the pier for our boat to Isla del Sol. This wasn’t a speedboat; let’s just say it was a leisurely ninety-minute chug across the lake. It gave us plenty of time to appreciate just how big Titicaca really is. It’s less like a lake and more like a sea in disguise.

As the boat drew closer, Isla del Sol rose slowly from the water – rugged cliffs at the edges, and terraced fields clinging to its slopes. You could see how people had farmed here for centuries, step by step, literally carved into the hillside.

🏛️ The Temple of the Sun

Disembarking involved a steep climb that had us puffing away like old kettles. Thin air, steep hill – you get the picture. At the top was the reward: the Temple of the Sun. It’s a crumbling ruin now, with weather-worn stones and open walls, but you can still feel the weight of history.

According to Inca legend, this very spot was where the sun itself was born. Not bad for a day trip. Standing there, looking out over the vast sweep of water, it wasn’t hard to imagine why this place became sacred to the Incas. Even the most cynical traveller might feel a twinge of awe.