👑 Queenstown, Otago – From Gold Rush Grit to Gourmet Gloss
We arrived in Queenstown this time from the south, driving up from Invercargill through wide Southland farmland that seemed determined to remain flat for as long as possible. Gradually the road began to rise and twist, the hills closing in, the air sharpening. Then, quite suddenly, Lake Wakatipu appeared, long and gleaming, with the Remarkables standing beyond it like a carefully arranged backdrop.
It was a splendid entrance. Calm water. Blue sky. Mountains behaving impeccably.
Fifteen years earlier, our approach had been entirely different. We had flown in, descending over jagged peaks and impossibly blue water, the aircraft banking in what felt like a mildly theatrical flourish before landing. Jack and Emily had been glued to the windows. Even we had been quietly impressed. From the airport we had travelled south along the edge of Lake Wakatipu, the road hugging the shoreline, every bend revealing another view that made you say, “Good grief.”
On both occasions the weather had been flawless. Suspiciously so. The sort of sky tourism brochures pray for.
🏔️ The Landscape – Still Running the Show
Whether arriving by air or road, the setting was unmistakable. Lake Wakatipu stretched out in its strange lightning-bolt shape, carved by glaciers with admirable thoroughness. It did not sit politely in the landscape; it dominated it.
The Remarkables rose directly from the water, steep and angular, looking faintly theatrical. Even fifteen years on, they had lost none of their impact. The light played across them differently depending on the hour, but their presence was constant.
Long before aeroplanes and campervans, Māori travelled seasonally through this region, gathering food and prized pounamu from the wider area. The winters were too harsh for permanent settlement, and even in sunshine you could sense how cold and unforgiving it might become. Standing beside the lake again with Karen, I was reminded that however polished the town became, the mountains and water remained in charge.
⛏️ Gold, Mud and Ambition
It was difficult, strolling along tidy pavements and past carefully curated shopfronts, to picture Queenstown’s beginnings. In 1862, gold discoveries in the Arrow River brought thousands of hopeful miners. The settlement was first known as “The Camp”, which suggested more honesty than glamour.
By 1863 it had been renamed Queenstown, apparently because it was considered “fit for a queen”. One imagines this was said with a straight face while standing in mud.
Chinese miners later reworked abandoned claims, forming a crucial part of the district’s story. Life was harsh, winters severe, and supplies slow to arrive. It was not a picturesque alpine retreat; it was a rough frontier outpost built on optimism and exhaustion. The transformation into today’s sleek resort required considerable reinvention.
🚢 Steamers and Reinvention
When the gold diminished, sheep farming sustained the region. Lake Wakatipu became a transport route, linking isolated communities. Steamships carried goods and passengers, including the TSS Earnslaw, launched in 1912 and still operating.
We watched it again on this visit, its coal smoke drifting gently into the blue sky. It looked reassuringly unchanged, as though it had quietly ignored the last century of development. Tourism had grown gradually from the late nineteenth century, when visitors sought clean air and dramatic scenery. Roads improved. Hotels expanded. The town adapted, layer by layer.
Then, in the late twentieth century, it accelerated.
🎿 Adrenaline and Expansion
By the time we first flew in fifteen years earlier, Queenstown had already embraced its identity as the adventure capital of the world. The Kawarau Bridge bungy, running commercially since 1988, was a firm fixture. Jet boats tore through narrow canyons. Paragliders hovered above the lake like colourful punctuation marks.
Back then it had felt energetic and slightly scruffy. Backpackers with sunburnt noses mingled with families and cautious observers like us. There was a sense of organised chaos.
Returning now, we noticed how refined everything appeared. Restaurants were more polished. Bars more carefully branded. Accommodation prices had climbed impressively. It had grown wealthier and more assured. Impressive, certainly. But perhaps a little less raw than we remembered.
🍔 Fergburger – A Tale of Two Queues
On that first visit, after arriving by plane and driving south along the lake, we had joined the queue outside Fergburger with Jack and Emily. Even then it was famous. The smell of grilled beef drifted into the street like a summons.
We were not vegan in those days. We ordered the renowned Fergburger — enormous, unapologetic and structurally ambitious. It arrived wrapped in paper, requiring both hands and full concentration. It was messy, indulgent and entirely satisfying. We remembered eating it near the lake, children content and temporarily silent.
This time, older and now firmly plant-based, Karen and I decided to revisit and try the veggie option. We turned the corner and were greeted by a queue of heroic proportions. It stretched down the street, far longer than we remembered.
We stood there in perfect sunshine.
Karen looked at the queue.
I looked at Karen.
Neither of us fancied waiting that long. Age brings wisdom, or at least impatience. We walked on, slightly amused. The queue seemed to represent Queenstown’s transformation perfectly: bigger, busier, more internationally famous.
🎬 Global Spotlight and Growing Sophistication
In the early 2000s, the wider Otago landscapes featured prominently in The Lord of the Rings films, bringing global attention. Tourism numbers rose sharply. Investment followed.
Nearby Gibbston Valley flourished as a wine region, especially for Pinot Noir. Boutique vineyards expanded. Luxury lodges appeared. Apartment developments edged into once-open land.
Fifteen years earlier, the town had felt adventurous and a little rough-edged. Now it felt curated and confident. Stylish. Prosperous. Slightly more corporate in tone.
🌦️ Two Visits, Identical Skies
What remained almost absurdly consistent was the weather. Both visits, separated by fifteen years and two entirely different approaches, had been blessed with flawless conditions. Clear skies. Crisp mountain views. The lake shimmering.
Perhaps we were fortunate. Perhaps Queenstown simply understands presentation.
🧭 Reflections
Arriving by air all those years ago and driving along the lake felt dramatic and new. Arriving this time from the south felt steady and reflective. The town itself had evolved — wealthier, more polished, more expensive.
It had lost a little of its scruffy charm. The rough edges had been smoothed. The queues had grown longer.
Yet the essentials remained. The mountains were unchanged. The lake was vast and commanding. The layers of history — Māori journeys, gold rush ambition, steamship endurance — still lay beneath the modern veneer.
Karen and I may have indulged in mild nostalgia. That is inevitable.
But standing beside Lake Wakatipu once more, under that persistent blue sky, we both knew the truth.
It was still magnificent.
However you chose to arrive.
Planning your visit to Queenstown
📍 Planning Your Visit to Queensland
Queensland is a tiny rural settlement on the western side of Lake Wakatipu in the South Island of New Zealand. It sits a short distance north of Queenstown, tucked between open farmland and dramatic mountain scenery. If you blink while driving, you may well miss it. It is not a town in the usual sense, more a scattering of homes and rural properties set against a rather magnificent backdrop.
You come here for the peace, the views and the feeling of being slightly removed from the bustle of central Queenstown.
🚗 Location and Setting
Queensland lies along Glenorchy Road, which runs north from Queenstown towards Glenorchy. The area overlooks Lake Wakatipu and faces the Remarkables mountain range across the water. The landscape is classic Otago: wide skies, dry grasses in summer, snow-dusted peaks in winter, and clear air that makes everything look closer than it really is.
There are no shops, fuel stations or visitor centres in Queensland itself. You base yourself either in Queenstown or in self-catering accommodation nearby and treat Queensland as a quiet place to stay or explore from.
✈️ Getting There
The nearest airport is Queenstown Airport, which receives domestic flights from major New Zealand cities and international services from Australia. From the airport, you hire a car or take a taxi into Queenstown and then continue north along Glenorchy Road.
Driving is straightforward. The road is sealed and well maintained, though it is winding in places. You drive on the left in New Zealand, and seatbelts are compulsory for all passengers. Speed limits are clearly signposted, typically 50 km/h in built-up areas and 100 km/h on open roads unless otherwise indicated.
Public transport to this rural stretch is limited. Buses operate within Queenstown, but to reach Queensland comfortably and explore the surrounding area, you rely on a car.
🚙 Getting Around
A car gives you complete freedom. The surrounding countryside is best appreciated at your own pace, with the option to pull over at scenic lookouts along Glenorchy Road. There are numerous informal stopping points where you can park safely and take photographs, but you always ensure your vehicle is well off the carriageway.
Cycling is popular in the wider Queenstown area, though Glenorchy Road has narrow sections and no dedicated cycle lane in places. If you cycle, you wear high-visibility clothing and a helmet, which is required by law in New Zealand.
Walking opportunities are plentiful. You access lakeside tracks and longer hiking routes within easy driving distance. You respect private land, as much of the area around Queensland is working farmland.
🏡 Accommodation and Facilities
Accommodation near Queensland typically consists of holiday homes, lodges and rural retreats rather than large hotels. You shop for groceries in Queenstown before heading out, as there are no retail facilities in the settlement itself.
Mobile phone coverage is generally reliable but can vary depending on your network and exact location. It is sensible to download maps or key information in advance in case of patchy signal in more remote spots.
🌿 Culture and Local Etiquette
New Zealand culture is informal and friendly. A simple smile and greeting go a long way. You respect personal space and avoid trespassing on private land, especially in rural areas where gates, livestock and farm machinery are common.
The country places strong emphasis on protecting its natural environment. You follow the “leave no trace” principle: take your rubbish away with you, use designated toilet facilities where available, and avoid disturbing wildlife. Open fires are often restricted due to wildfire risk, particularly in dry conditions, and you check local guidelines before lighting any flame outdoors.
You may also notice references to Māori place names and heritage in the wider region. These are an important part of New Zealand’s cultural identity, and pronunciation is treated with respect. If unsure, you simply ask.
The best time to visit Queenstown
🌸 Spring (September – November)
Spring in Queenstown is a season of contrast. Snow still clings to the surrounding mountains while the valleys begin to warm and brighten. Daytime temperatures usually range from about 8°C to 18°C. It can feel fresh in the mornings and evenings, with the odd cold snap reminding you winter has only just left.
This is a lovely time for walking trails, lake cruises and photography. The crowds are thinner than in summer, and accommodation can be slightly easier to secure. Snow sports are sometimes still possible early in the season, depending on snowfall.
What to pack: Bring layers. A warm jumper or fleece, a waterproof jacket, comfortable walking shoes and a light scarf will serve you well. Sunglasses are useful too, as the sun can be surprisingly strong when it appears.
☀️ Summer (December – February)
Summer is Queenstown at its busiest and boldest. Temperatures generally sit between 20°C and 30°C, though evenings cool down pleasantly. The long daylight hours mean you can be out exploring well into the evening.
It is prime time for hiking, lake activities on Lake Wakatipu, vineyard visits and the full menu of adventure sports. The town has a lively atmosphere, with cafés and waterfront spots humming with activity. However, it is also peak season, so expect higher prices and busier streets.
What to pack: Light clothing for daytime, such as T-shirts and breathable fabrics, but include a light jacket or jumper for cooler evenings. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, and don’t forget sunscreen, a hat and swimwear.
🍂 Autumn (March – May)
Autumn is often regarded as one of Queenstown’s most attractive seasons. The trees turn rich shades of gold and red, particularly around Arrowtown and the lake edges. Temperatures usually range from 10°C to 22°C, gradually cooling as the season progresses.
The crowds begin to thin after the summer rush, and the pace feels calmer. It is an excellent time for scenic drives, wine tasting and gentle outdoor pursuits without the intensity of peak summer heat.
What to pack: Layered clothing works best. Bring long-sleeved tops, a medium-weight jacket, comfortable trousers and sturdy footwear. A compact umbrella or waterproof jacket is sensible as weather can change quickly.
❄️ Winter (June – August)
Winter transforms Queenstown into a snow-covered alpine resort. Temperatures commonly range from -2°C to 10°C. Crisp mornings and frosty landscapes are typical, and snowfall in the surrounding mountains draws skiers and snowboarders from around the world.
This is the prime season for winter sports at nearby ski fields such as Coronet Peak and The Remarkables. The town has a cosy feel, with log fires and hearty meals very much in order. Roads to ski areas may require care, especially after snowfall.
What to pack: Proper winter clothing is essential. A warm insulated coat, thermal layers, gloves, scarf and a hat are strongly advised. Waterproof boots with good grip are helpful, particularly if you are heading up the mountains.
📊 Seasonal Summary Chart
| Season | Temperature Range | Crowds | Main Highlights | Packing Focus |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | 8°C – 18°C | Moderate | Blossoms, fewer visitors, scenery | Layers, waterproofs |
| Summer | 20°C – 30°C | High | Hiking, lake activities, vineyards | Light clothes, sun gear |
| Autumn | 10°C – 22°C | Moderate-Low | Autumn colours, wine season | Layers, light jacket |
| Winter | -2°C – 10°C | High (skiers) | Snow sports, alpine scenery | Heavy winter clothing |
Overall, the best time to visit Queenstown depends on what you want from your trip. For snow sports and alpine charm, winter is ideal. For lively energy and long sunny days, summer is hard to beat. However, many visitors find autumn offers the perfect balance of pleasant temperatures, beautiful scenery and fewer crowds, making it arguably the most rounded and comfortable season to enjoy everything Queenstown has to offer.
Where to stay in Queenstown?
1. REES HOTEL AND LUXURY APARTMENTS
If you are looking for something more upscale then the Rees Hotel and Luxury apartments might be worth checking out. The hotel is located a 10-minute drive from downtown Queenstown and is right next to the lake, and some rooms and apartments have views of Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains.
They offer in-room massages which might be just what you need if you have been out hiking or skiing.
2. SWISS-BELRESORT CORONET PEAK
Located just 7 minutes’ drive from Queenstown’s lively centre, the 3.5-star Swiss-Belresort Coronet Peak features a restaurant for breakfast and dinner, 2 bars and a bowling alley.
The hotel is out of town, so if you want to escape the hubbub of the lively Queenstown and be more in nature this place might be a good option for you.
As well as the bowling alley there are billiard tables, air hockey and Foosball in case the weather is not great.
3. YHA QUEENSTOWN LAKEFRONT
A comfortable fully equipped hostel sitting right on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, offering enchanting views of the lake and mountains. If you want to experience the beauty and excitement of Queenstown but still get a good night’s sleep, then YHA Queenstown Lakefront is the hostel for you and it’s only a 10 minute walk into town. This is where we stayed as a family during our visit to Queenstown – the location was great and the room we had, which was a private room, was clean and comfortable.
