Panama: Portobelo – the historic port

On our travels around the world, I have developed a passion for visiting UNESCO World Heritage sites. So, when looking at our travel plans for Panama, Portobelo was one of the places I thought we could do a two-night detour to.

By the time we got to Portobelo, it was late afternoon. Luckily, the place was not large and finding our accommodation, Casa Congo, was not too hard – but finding somewhere to park was more so. I got Karen to go and check where she would go, and a man appeared and directed us to a private, locked parking area. We got to our room, which was more like an apartment, and dropped our bags in. The place was very rustic but had a nice balcony with views across the river delta. Sunset was not far off so we decided to head out to explore Portobelo.

Portobelo was founded in the early 16th century by the Spanish, and it became one of the most important ports in the Americas during the colonial era. It was a key port for shipping gold and silver from the Americas to Europe.

The town was part of the Spanish treasure route, with ships transporting valuable metals and goods from the New World. Portobelo was often attacked by pirates, including the infamous Henry Morgan, who plundered the town in the 17th century.

The town is known for its impressive fortifications, which were built to protect the port from pirate attacks. The most famous fortifications are Fuerte San Jerónimo, Fuerte de San Fernando, and Fuerte de Santiago. These forts are part of the Portobelo Fortifications, which have been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These historic forts offer a glimpse into the town’s strategic importance in the colonial era and are a significant draw for tourists.

Portobelo is also renowned for its Black Christ (Cristo Negro), a statue of Jesus Christ, which is believed to have miraculous powers. Every year, thousands of pilgrims visit Portobelo during the Black Christ Festival, held in October, to honour the statue and seek blessings. The festival is a vibrant celebration of Afro-Panamanian culture, with music, dancing, and religious ceremonies.

The town also celebrates Afro-Colonial heritage, with a rich mix of traditions brought by African slaves during the colonial period.

Not too far from where we were staying were the ruins of one of the forts, so we headed there to check it out. We passed through one of the openings in the fortress walls. Inside was a group of youngsters who were playing a game of baseball – which we of course stopped to watch – at least Karen did, I went off to take some photographs.

After wandering around the ruins of the fortifications for a bit we headed further into the town to visit the Black Christ Church.

The church is home to a revered statue of the Black Christ, also known as El Cristo Negro de Portobelo, which has become a symbol of faith and devotion for many. The statue is believed to have miraculous powers, and it attracts thousands of pilgrims each year, especially during the annual festival of El Día del Cristo Negro, celebrated on October 21st. The church’s origins date back to the colonial era when it was constructed by the Spanish to serve the growing community of Afro-descendants in the region. Its location, on the Caribbean coast, has made it a focal point for both African heritage and Catholic tradition, blending local beliefs with the religious practices brought by European colonizers. The Black Christ statue, with its dark complexion, is a powerful symbol of resilience and identity for Afro-Panamanians, as well as for people from across the world who come to witness its spiritual significance.

From the chuch we went back to our room, stopping in the café to pick up a couple of beers to take up our deck, where we sat and watched the sun go down. One of the odd things was seeing the number of wrecks of boats littering the river. Anyway, it was time to rest up after a long day of travelling.

In summary, Karen and I enjoyed our visit to Portobelo. It is a charming and historically rich town. The town offered a perfect blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and laid-back vibes that we both appreciated. The Fort San Jeronimo and Fort San Lorenzo provided a fascinating glimpse into the area’s colonial past, and we were captivated by the mix of history and breathtaking views.