Mérida, the vibrant capital of the Mexican state of Yucatán, has a rich Mayan and colonial heritage. The city’s focal point is Plaza de la Independencia, bordered by the fortress-like Mérida Cathedral and white limestone Iglesia de la Tercera Orden, both colonial-era churches built using relics from ancient Mayan temples.
Mexico: Yucatán – Uxmal Archaeological Site
No one knows when the Maya first settled in Uxmal. A legend tells of a magician-dwarf who built the Pyramid of the Magician overnight, but hard evidence from the earliest temple suggests construction began around the 6th century CE and continued expanding the city thereafter.
Today, I joined an organised tour to the Mayan archaeological site of Uxmal from Yucatán’s capital Mérida. Uxmal is about 80km from Mérida and takes roughly an hour to get there.
It is a very popular tourist site, so expect to see many other visitors during your stay. If you can get there independently, then you should try to arrive as early as possible to avoid the heat of the day and the crowds of tourists!
Some of the history of Uxmal
Uxmal is the most important representative of the Puuc architectural style, which flourished in the Late Classic Period (CE 600–900). Characteristics of the Puuc style include limestone construction, often with smooth wall surfaces; plaster (stucco) finishes; masks and other representations of the rain god Chac (Chaac); and the prevalence of styling along horizontal lines. Quite probably this style and the northern Maya lowland culture continued for a century or so after the decline and abandonment of the southern Maya lowland centres such as Tikal and Palenque. After about 1000, when Toltec (or Toltec-inspired) invaders arrived in Yucatán and established their capital at Chichén Itzá, major construction in the city ceased. According to Maya hieroglyphic records, however, Uxmal continued to be occupied until the time when the great cities of the north, were abandoned (c. 1450 CE).
The site of Uxmal is a dry grass savanna area, but the surrounding region is heavily forested. Water was furnished by cenotes (wells formed by sinkholes in limestone understrata) within the city or by rain-collecting pools to the west. Rainfall and the supply of water were a constant preoccupation for the city’s inhabitants, who frequently invoked the assistance of Chac in their architectural symbolism, hieroglyphs, and human sacrifices. Hieroglyphs reveal that one Uxmal ruler took the name “Lord Chac” in about 900 CE.
Uxmal was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1966.
Temple of the Magician
After entering Uxmal, the first structure you meet is the Temple of the Magician. The initial view is the backside of the pyramid, which is nonetheless impressive. This pyramid is also known as the House of the Dwarf (Casa del Adivino, or Casa del Enano), and is one of the most famous Mayan monuments of Uxmal.
Its name comes from a Maya tale of the 19th century, titled the Leyenda del Enano de Uxmal (The Legend of the Uxmal’s Dwarf). According to this legend, a dwarf constructed the pyramid in one night, helped by his mother, a witch. This building is one of the most impressive in Uxmal, measuring about 115 feet in height. It was constructed over the Late and Terminal Classic periods, between AD 600 and 1000, and five constructive phases have been detected. The one visible today is the latest one, built around CE 900-1000.
From the temple’s rear, we moved to the other side, which faces onto a plaza surrounded on all four sides by other structures. The staircase on this, the western side of the temple, is decorated with friezes of the rain god Chaac.
The Nunnery
Moving further west from the Temple of the Magician is a complex known as the Nunnery. The Nunnery Quadrangle in Uxmal was built from 900-1000 CE, and the name came about in the 16th century because it resembled a convent. The quadrangle consists of four palaces placed on different levels that surround a courtyard, with 74 distinct chambers. The Quadrangle rests on a rectangular platform more than four meters high and 100 metres per side with four different buildings that are not attached on the corners.
The formal entrance, the hierarchy of the structures through the different elevations, and the absence of domestic elements suggest that this space corresponds to a royal palace with administrative and non-residential functions, where the ruling group must have had meetings to collect the tribute, make decisions, dictate sentences, among other activities.
The facades were beautifully carved with decorative motifs such as lattice, columns, huts, the masks of the rain god, two-headed serpents, owls, symbols of the planet Venus, geometric elements, and naked and tied human figures, either standing or sitting.
The Ball Court
Below the platform of the Nunnery was the ubiquitous ball court, which is where we headed next.
The House of the Pigeons
Next to the ball court is another small patio which at one time would have had buildings on four sides, today only the building on one of the sides remains. This is known as the House of the Pigeons. Built in 900 CE, it got its name as the façade resembles a dovecote.
The Great Pyramid
From the House of the Pigeons, I climbed the platform that brings you to the base of the Great Pyramid, which sits in front of a sunken patio. This temple is less decorated than the Pyramid of the Magician but is similar in size, measuring 80m at the base and 30m in height. It is not as well preserved as some of the other buildings at Uxmal.
House of Turtles & The House of the Governors
There are more steps leading up from the patio of the Great Pyramid to the highest point of Uxmal, which has great views across the complex. Up here were the last two structures we visited on our tour.
The House of the Turtles is a smaller building which got its name from the frieze of turtles on its outside. Next to this is a much larger and more imposing building called the House of the Governors, which is 100m long, 12m wide, and 9m high. It is actually three rectangular buildings, one large one flanked by two smaller buildings joined by large transverse vaults. The decoration of the facade of the building has glyphs of Venus, placed on the cheeks of the masks of Chac, god of rain and fertility, there are also eight two-headed snakes above the main entrance.
Our tour of Uxmal was done, so I took the trail down back to the entrance to meet up with the rest of our group.
In summary
- The archaeological site of Uxmal is one of the most important of the Mayan sites in Mexico
- It takes about two hours to explore with a guide.
- Uxmal has some of the best examples of Mayan carvings
- Uxmal was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1966.
Planning your visit to Uxmal
Bus
To get to Uxmal by bus, you need to go to the TAME terminal – Calle 69 between Calle 68 and Calle 70.
There are buses at 6 am, 9 am, and 2 pm. The ticket costs around 100 pesos and the trip takes 1h30-2h. The bus will drop you off on the road and you have to walk about a quarter mile to the site.
To get back, wait for the bus at the same spot. It should come around 3pm-3:30pm.
If the bus doesn’t show up (yes, it can happen!), you can take a colectivo to Muna, and then another one to Mérida. Sometimes, there are also direct colectivos from Uxmal to Mérida.
Collectivo/Taxi
Another option would be to take a colectivo from Mérida to Muna, and then a taxi (or another colectivo) from Muna to Uxmal.
Tours
Tours operate from Merida and cities in adjoining States – Campeche and Quintana Roo.
Drive
From the city of Mérida, it is necessary to travel along Federal Highway No. 261 in the direction of Santa Elena. 9 kilometers after the town of Muna is Lázaro Cárdenas and 3 kilometers later, the archaeological site.
The best time to visit Uxmal
The best time to visit Merida
Planning a visit to Merida warrants the consideration of several climate factors. For the relatively lower humidity levels coupled with pleasant temperatures, the ideal timeframe for visiting falls between November and April. The average rainfall during these months is quite low, enhancing the outdoor experience for tourists. The city also experiences longer daylight during these months, ranging from 10.9 to 13.4 hours, allowing ample time for sightseeing and outdoor activities.
The worst time to visit Merida
Merida sees its heaviest rainfall and relatively higher humidity levels between May and October. These months can pose challenges for those planning outdoor activities and sightseeing due to unpredictability of precipitation. Additionally, temperatures tend to be warmer during this period thus it might be uncomfortable for some visitors.
Where to stay in Merida
1. Luxury – Casa Azul Monumento Historico
Set in a 19th-century listed building, Casa Azul Monumento Histórico is 2 blocks from Montejo Avenue. This boutique hotel offers an outdoor pool, restaurant and luxurious suites with free Wi-Fi and flat-screen TV.
Each elegant air-conditioned suite is individually decorated with antique furniture and original artworks. All suites include a safe, minibar and iPod dock. The stylish bathrooms offer toiletries, slippers and bathrobes.
2. Mid-Range – Hotel La Piazzetta
Offering free WiFi, this Mérida Hotel La Piazzetta is located on Mejorada square and 230 metres from Museo De la Canción Yucateca and just a few blocks from the Cathedral, market and Paseo Montejo.
All rooms have air conditioning, no TV in room, a fan and marble bathrooms with Italian-style showers with no door and separate WC. WiFi access is available free of charge in all the property.
3. Budget – Art 57 Hotel
Hotel Art57 is located in central Merida, and offers free Wi-Fi in all areas, outdoor pool and a tour desk to help guests with information about this city.
The rooms at the Art57 feature air conditioning, private bathroom with shower, free toiletries, flat-screen TV with cable channels.
Art57 is also an art gallery that exhibits the art work from local and other Mexican artists.
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