Contents
1. About Oaxaca
2. Things to do
– Monte Alban
– Discovering Hierve El Agua
– Exploring the Ruins of Mitla
– A Visit to the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca
– Check out the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzmán
– Visit the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption
– Walking the Streets of Oaxaca
– Enjoy Oaxaca’s Street Art
– See what’s on at the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños
– Experience a Mescal Tasting
– Go to Santa María del Tule to see its Famous Tree
3. Getting around
4. Vegan dining options
5. Best time to visit
6. Where to stay
About Oaxaca
Oaxaca, the capital of the state bearing the same name, is one of Mexico’s most culturally rich and visually striking cities. Nestled in a valley surrounded by the Sierra Madre mountains, it’s known for its well-preserved colonial architecture, colourful streets, and a strong indigenous presence that shapes much of its character. The city’s historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is filled with shaded plazas, baroque churches, and stone-paved streets lined with cafés, markets, and galleries. At its heart lies the Zócalo, a lively public square where locals and visitors mingle beneath the shade of large trees and arcades.
Oaxaca is also renowned for its deep and varied culinary tradition. The region is often referred to as the gastronomic capital of Mexico, and with good reason. From rich, complex mole sauces to tlayudas and tamales wrapped in banana leaves, the food here reflects centuries of indigenous and Spanish influences. Local markets such as Mercado 20 de Noviembre are great places to sample these specialities, with rows of vendors offering grilled meats, fresh tortillas, and the region’s famous chocolate de agua. Mezcal, the smoky agave spirit, is also produced extensively in the surrounding countryside and features heavily in Oaxacan culture and hospitality.
Beyond the city, the wider region offers a wealth of natural and archaeological attractions. The ancient Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán, perched on a ridge overlooking the valley, offer stunning views and a deep sense of history. Villages outside the city such as Teotitlán del Valle are famous for traditional weaving and artisan crafts, many of which have been passed down through generations. Whether wandering through cobbled streets, exploring rural markets, or simply enjoying a quiet drink in a leafy courtyard, Oaxaca rewards visitors with a sense of place that feels both rooted and vibrant.
Things to do
A Morning in Monte Albán
Exploring Monte Albán is a remarkable experience that offers a deep insight into the ancient Zapotec civilisation. As you walk through the expansive site, perched high above the Oaxaca Valley, the scale and sophistication of the city become evident. The vast central plaza, flanked by pyramids, ceremonial platforms and residential ruins, tells the story of a society that flourished for over a thousand years. Hieroglyphic inscriptions, carved stones and carefully constructed terraces reflect the Zapotecs’ advanced understanding of architecture, astronomy and urban planning. Despite its popularity, the site remains peaceful enough to explore at your own pace, with panoramic views and quiet corners that encourage reflection on the city’s long and complex history.
Discovering the Petrified Waterfalls of Hierve El Agua
My visit to Hierve el Agua was one of the highlights of my time in Oaxaca. After navigating the winding road up through the hills, I arrived to find a breathtaking landscape quite unlike anything I’d seen before. The petrified waterfalls, formed over thousands of years by mineral-rich spring water, looked almost like frozen cascades of white stone draped over the cliffside. I took my time walking along the edge of the site, pausing frequently to take in the sweeping views of the valley below. The mineral pools, filled with turquoise water, offered a refreshing spot to dip my feet while soaking up the scenery. Despite the growing number of visitors, the site never felt overcrowded, and there was plenty of space to explore quietly. It was a peaceful, otherworldly place, well worth the effort it took to reach.
Exploring the Ruins of Mitla
My visit to Mitla offered a fascinating glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of the Zapotec and Mixtec civilisations. Located about 45 kilometres southeast of Oaxaca City, the site is smaller than Monte Albán but equally captivating in its detail and design. Unlike many other Mesoamerican ruins, Mitla is renowned for its intricate geometric stone mosaics, which cover the walls of its temples and tombs with no mortar holding the pieces in place. Walking through the Palace of the Columns and peering into the underground tombs gave a strong sense of the site’s ceremonial importance. The combination of pre-Hispanic architecture and later Spanish influences—evident in the 16th-century church built atop the ruins—made Mitla feel like a poignant reminder of Mexico’s layered past.
A Visit to the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca
A visit to the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca offers a rich and engaging insight into the history and heritage of the region. Housed within the grand former convent of Santo Domingo, the museum is as much an architectural experience as a cultural one, with its sweeping stone cloisters, tranquil courtyards, and carefully curated exhibitions. The galleries trace the evolution of Oaxaca’s civilisations from their pre-Hispanic roots through to the colonial period and beyond, with particular emphasis on the achievements of the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples. Highlights include intricately crafted sculptures, ceremonial artefacts, and the remarkable treasures from Tomb 7 at Monte Albán. While most of the interpretive material is in Spanish, the clarity and quality of the displays speak for themselves, making the experience accessible and rewarding even to those with limited language skills.
Check out the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzmán
The Church and Convent of Santo Domingo de Guzmán is one of the most iconic landmarks in Oaxaca and a superb example of Baroque architecture in colonial Mexico. Constructed by the Dominican Order beginning in the late 16th century, the complex served not only as a religious centre but also as a bastion of Dominican influence in the region. The church’s façade is richly ornamented, while its interior is notable for its gilded stucco work, particularly the elaborate ceiling of the Rosary Chapel. The adjoining convent, now home to the Museum of Cultures of Oaxaca, is equally impressive, with its spacious cloisters, vaulted ceilings, and meticulously restored rooms. Together, the church and convent stand as a testament to both the spiritual and architectural ambitions of the colonial period, offering visitors a striking blend of artistry, history, and enduring cultural presence..
Visit the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption
The Cathedral of Oaxaca, officially known as the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, stands as one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Situated on the north side of the central zócalo, or main square, the cathedral was originally constructed in the mid-16th century, though it has undergone numerous reconstructions over the centuries due to damage from earthquakes. Built primarily from greenish-grey cantera stone, characteristic of the region, the cathedral’s façade is an imposing yet elegant example of Baroque architecture, with later Neoclassical influences evident in its interior. The twin towers, which now frame the building, were added in the 18th century after earlier ones collapsed. Inside, the cathedral houses an array of religious artworks, intricate woodwork, and a particularly notable pipe organ dating back to the early 18th century. It remains an active place of worship and a central part of the city’s religious and cultural life.
Walking the Streets of Oaxaca
Walking the streets of Oaxaca is a quietly rewarding experience. The city’s architecture offers a rich blend of colonial and indigenous influences, with sun-washed facades in earthy reds, yellows, and greens lining cobbled streets. Modest single-storey homes with wrought-iron balconies sit comfortably alongside grander buildings such as the baroque Church of Santo Domingo, with its elaborate stonework and commanding presence. Many of the older structures have thick adobe walls and shaded courtyards, offering a welcome sense of coolness and calm in the midday heat. There’s a pleasing scale to everything—human-sized and unhurried—that invites you to slow down and notice the small details: carved wooden doors, weathered signs, and bursts of bougainvillaea spilling over timeworn walls.
Enjoy Oaxaca’s Street Art
Oaxaca’s street art scene is one of the most distinctive in Mexico, blending political commentary with rich local traditions and visual flair. Across the city, especially in areas like Xochimilco and Jalatlaco, walls are covered with murals, stencils, and paste-ups that range from the whimsical to the overtly radical. Many pieces reflect indigenous identity, social justice themes, or critiques of government and capitalism, often incorporating traditional Zapotec and Mixtec motifs alongside contemporary styles. Local artists such as Lapiztola and Yescka have gained international recognition, yet much of the work remains proudly rooted in community and grassroots expression. The result is a living gallery in the streets—accessible, constantly evolving, and deeply reflective of Oaxaca’s creative spirit.
Explore the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca
The Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca is one of the city’s most distinctive and thoughtfully curated spaces, situated within the grounds of the former Santo Domingo convent complex. Unlike a typical botanical garden, it is designed not merely for aesthetic appeal but to reflect the deep relationship between Oaxaca’s indigenous cultures and the region’s native plant life. Every species within the garden has been carefully selected to represent the diverse ecosystems found across the state—from arid cacti-filled landscapes to more temperate zones. The layout is geometric and precise, with stone pathways weaving between towering agaves, ancient cypress trees, medicinal plants, and rows of succulents, all arranged to showcase both botanical variety and cultural significance. Access is by guided tour only, which ensures the garden’s preservation and allows for an informative experience, although visitors can catch glimpses of it from surrounding buildings and terraces. It stands as a living museum of Oaxacan biodiversity and traditional ecological knowledge.
See what’s on at the Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños
The Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños, or Museum of Oaxacan Painters, is a cultural institution in the heart of Oaxaca City dedicated to showcasing the rich and diverse visual art traditions of the region. Housed in a restored colonial-era building, the museum provides a thoughtfully curated space that highlights the work of both established and emerging Oaxacan artists. The collection features a broad range of styles, from modernist interpretations to pieces deeply rooted in indigenous themes and iconography. While not as large or historically encyclopaedic as some other museums in the city, it offers a compelling look into the evolving art scene of Oaxaca, serving as both a gallery and a platform for regional identity. Temporary exhibitions are regularly rotated, ensuring that each visit presents something fresh and reflective of current artistic dialogues within the state.
Experience a Mescal Tasting
Just outside Oaxaca, mezcal tasting has become an increasingly popular way to experience one of the region’s most iconic products. Unlike its more commercial cousin, tequila, mezcal is traditionally handcrafted, often by small family-run distilleries known as palenques. A visit to one of these operations—whether in the nearby towns of Santiago Matatlán, Mitla, or San Dionisio Ocotepec—offers a chance to learn about the slow, labour-intensive process behind this smoky spirit. From the roasting of agave hearts in underground pits to the fermentation in wooden vats and distillation in copper or clay stills, the methods are deeply rooted in tradition. Tastings usually involve sampling a range of varieties, from young and fiery joven to aged añejo, each with distinct flavours depending on the type of agave used and the producer’s technique. It’s not just a drink, but a cultural experience that tells a story with every sip.
Go to Santa María del Tule to see its Famous Tree
The tree in Santa María del Tule, located just outside the city of Oaxaca, is one of the most remarkable natural landmarks in Mexico. Known as El Árbol del Tule, this Montezuma cypress (Taxodium mucronatum) is believed to be over 1,500 years old, making it one of the oldest living trees in the world. What truly sets it apart, however, is its colossal girth—the trunk has a circumference of more than 40 metres, and for many years it was considered the stoutest tree on Earth. Situated in the churchyard of the local parish, the tree has become a cherished symbol of the region, attracting visitors with its vast, gnarled form and the whimsical shapes said to be visible in its twisting bark. Despite some concerns in recent years about its health due to urban development and water scarcity, the Tule Tree remains a powerful and enduring testament to the natural heritage of Oaxaca.
Getting to and around Oaxaca
✈️ Getting to Oaxaca, Mexico
Oaxaca City, officially known as Oaxaca de Juárez, is the capital of the state of Oaxaca in southern Mexico. While it feels a world away from the frenetic pace of Mexico City, it’s relatively easy to reach, especially if you’re arriving from a major hub.
From the UK, the most practical route is to fly into Mexico City first. Direct flights from London to Mexico City operate regularly with airlines such as British Airways and Aeroméxico. Once in Mexico, you can either take a domestic flight to Oaxaca or travel overland. Flights from Mexico City to Oaxaca Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX) are frequent, with a journey time of just under 1.5 hours. Carriers such as Aeroméxico, Viva Aerobus, and Volaris all operate this route.
If you prefer to travel by land, several long-distance bus services make the journey from Mexico City to Oaxaca. ADO is the main operator, offering comfortable, air-conditioned coaches with onboard toilets. The trip takes around 6 to 7 hours, depending on the service and traffic. For those already in Puebla or San Cristóbal de las Casas, bus connections to Oaxaca are also available and reliable, though from San Cristóbal the journey is considerably longer and more winding.
🚶♀️ Getting Around Oaxaca
The historic centre of Oaxaca is compact and largely walkable, with most major sights, restaurants, markets, and museums within easy reach of one another. Cobbled streets and colonial buildings dominate the landscape, and wandering on foot is the best way to take it all in. The Zócalo, or main square, serves as a useful reference point, with many attractions radiating outward from there.
For slightly longer journeys within the city—such as to Monte Albán, the airport, or accommodation on the outskirts—taxis and ride-hailing services like DiDi are readily available. DiDi is more commonly used in Oaxaca than Uber and tends to be affordable and safe. You can also flag down street taxis, but as always, it’s a good idea to agree the fare in advance if not using an app.
Public transport in Oaxaca is basic but functional. A network of small local buses and colectivos (shared taxis or minibuses) serve the wider urban area and surrounding villages. These are mostly used by locals and can be tricky to navigate without some Spanish and a rough idea of the routes. That said, they offer a cheap and authentic way to reach nearby artisan towns such as Teotitlán del Valle or San Bartolo Coyotepec, if you’re feeling adventurous.
For day trips further afield—like Hierve el Agua, Mitla, or the Tlacolula Sunday market—you can book a guided tour, hire a private driver, or rent a car. Oaxaca’s roads are manageable, but some are winding and slow, particularly if you’re heading into the mountains. Planning your transport ahead of time can make for a smoother experience.
Eating out for vegans in Oaxaca
🥗 Vegan Food in Oaxaca, Mexico
Oaxaca is best known for its rich, traditional cuisine, but it’s also becoming an increasingly welcoming place for plant-based eaters. From casual cafés to organic markets, there’s a growing selection of vegan-friendly spots to try. Here are some of the best options in the city:
🌿 Hierba Dulce – Centro Histórico
A fully vegan restaurant located just a short walk from the Zócalo. Hierba Dulce blends traditional Oaxacan ingredients with a modern plant-based twist. Think tlayudas, mole, and tamales—all entirely vegan. The space is calm and relaxed, ideal for a leisurely lunch.
📍 Address: Calle Porfirio Díaz 110, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @hierbadulceoaxaca
🍜 Açaí Vegan – Reforma
A bright and casual vegan café offering smoothie bowls, vegan tacos, salads, and hearty bowls. It’s a good spot for breakfast or a light lunch, especially if you’re after something fresh and colourful.
📍 Address: Av. Heroico Colegio Militar 110, Reforma, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @acaiveganoaxaca
🛒 Verde Morada – Organic Shop & Deli
A small organic shop and deli carrying plant-based pantry goods, fresh produce, and vegan-friendly snacks. They also serve prepared meals, juices, and coffees with non-dairy milk. A good place to stock up on basics if you’re self-catering.
📍 Address: Calle de Manuel Doblado 100, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @verdemoradaoaxaca
🍽️ Tierra del Sol – Fine Dining with Vegan Options
While not exclusively vegan, this upscale restaurant—run by celebrated Oaxacan chef Olga Cabrera—offers beautifully prepared regional dishes with plant-based adaptations available upon request. The rooftop setting is particularly lovely at sunset.
📍 Address: Av. Reforma 411, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Website: tierradelsol.com.mx
🧁 Boulenc – Artisan Bakery & Café
Boulenc is a favourite for both locals and travellers, known for its artisan breads and brunch menu. Though not a vegan bakery, they usually have a few clearly marked vegan pastries, as well as oat or almond milk for coffee. Expect a queue at peak times.
📍 Address: Calle Porfirio Díaz 207, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @boulenc_oaxaca
🥙 Itanoni – Traditional Tortilla Spot
Famous for its heirloom corn and hand-pressed tortillas, Itanoni is a traditional Oaxacan eatery that happens to be very vegan-friendly. Try the memelas, tetelas, and tostadas with simple toppings like beans, avocado, and local greens.
📍 Address: Belisario Domínguez 513, Reforma, Oaxaca
🌐 No website – cash only
🌱 Finca Orgánica – Juice Bar & Light Fare
Ideal for a quick juice, smoothie, or plant-based snack. They also serve soups, salads, and vegan tortas. Great for a healthy recharge during the day, with a few outdoor tables available.
📍 Address: José María Pino Suárez 501, Centro, Oaxaca
🌐 Instagram: @fincaorganicaoaxaca
The best time to visit Oaxaca
📅 Best Time to Visit Oaxaca, Mexico by Season
Oaxaca is a year-round destination, but each season offers something slightly different depending on your interests, tolerance for heat or rain, and what you’d like to experience culturally. Here’s a breakdown by season using UK spelling and practical guidance:
🌼 Spring (March to May)
Overview:
Spring in Oaxaca is dry, sunny, and increasingly warm. Daytime temperatures can climb into the high 20s to low 30s Celsius, with little rainfall.
Pros:
Clear skies and warm weather
Fewer crowds than in winter
Excellent time for exploring ruins and countryside without rain
Cons:
Can get quite hot by May
Some haze or dust in rural areas due to dryness
Good for:
Outdoor sightseeing, market visits, early cultural festivals like Semana Santa (Easter)
☀️ Summer (June to August)
Overview:
Summer brings the rainy season. Expect warm days, but also regular afternoon or evening showers, particularly in July and August.
Pros:
Lush green landscapes
Cooler nights and pleasant mornings
Fewer tourists compared to high winter season
Cons:
Rain may disrupt plans in the afternoons
Some rural roads and trails can become muddy
Good for:
Cultural festivals (like Guelaguetza in July), visiting museums, culinary tours
🍂 Autumn (September to November)
Overview:
Autumn is transitional. September can still be quite wet, but by late October the rains ease off, and the city begins preparing for major celebrations.
Pros:
Pleasant temperatures and improving weather
Fewer crowds in early autumn
Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) at the end of October is one of the highlights of the year
Cons:
Risk of rain in September
Popular holidays can lead to busy accommodation and higher prices
Good for:
Photography, festivals, cultural immersion
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Overview:
Winter is dry and sunny with cooler mornings and evenings. This is peak tourist season due to the comfortable weather.
Pros:
Crisp, dry conditions ideal for walking and sightseeing
Clear views and minimal rain
Vibrant atmosphere around Christmas and New Year
Cons:
Popular time, so expect more tourists
Accommodation prices can be higher
Cooler evenings may require a jumper or light jacket
Good for:
Ruins and outdoor excursions, markets, city walking tours
🏆 Overall Recommendation:
Late October to early March is arguably the best window for visiting Oaxaca if you’re seeking dry weather, lively cultural events, and manageable temperatures. However, if you prefer a quieter experience with greener scenery, the early summer months (before peak rains) can also be low.
Where to stay in Oaxaca
1. Luxury – Grand Fiesta Americana Oaxaca
2. Mid-Range – Hotel Dainzu
3. Budget – Hotel Nacional
