Mexico: Guadalajara – “La Perla Tapatía”
About Guadalajara
Guadalajara, the capital of the Mexican state of Jalisco, is one of the most vibrant and culturally rich cities in Mexico. Often referred to as the “Pearl of the West,” it is the second-largest city in the country and serves as a major economic and cultural hub. Guadalajara is known for its blend of colonial architecture and modern infrastructure, with historic neighborhoods like Tlaquepaque and Tonalá showcasing artisan traditions, while districts like Zapopan highlight the city’s growth in technology and business.
Culturally, Guadalajara is the birthplace of several iconic Mexican traditions. It is the cradle of mariachi music, which has been recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The city is also home to the famous Jalisco-style tequila, produced in nearby towns such as Tequila and Amatitán. Festivals like the International Film Festival and the Guadalajara International Book Fair attract global attention, making the city a center for the arts and intellectual exchange.
In recent years, Guadalajara has also emerged as a key player in Mexico’s tech industry, earning the nickname “Mexico’s Silicon Valley.” A growing number of startups and multinational companies have set up operations in the city, particularly in areas like software development, electronics, and digital services. This development, along with its strong educational institutions and rich cultural heritage, continues to make Guadalajara a dynamic and influential city within Mexico and Latin America.
Our visit to Guadalajara
An Afternoon at the Hospicio Cabañas
It was one of those mornings that seem to vanish without warning. By the time we’d gathered ourselves and left Hotel Plaza Dalí, it was already well into the afternoon—2:30, to be exact. Still, it seemed worth salvaging the day with something purposeful, so we made for the Hospicio Cabañas. I’d had my eye on it since we arrived in Guadalajara. Luckily, it was just a 20-minute walk from the hotel, and even better, we found out on arrival that entrance was free on Tuesdays. The weather was warm, but not uncomfortable—ideal for a walk and a few hours indoors.
The Hospicio Cabañas is more than just a museum. Originally established in 1810 by the Bishop of Guadalajara, it was conceived as an enormous charitable institution—a place that would function simultaneously as a hospital, an orphanage, a workhouse and an almshouse. It was named after Juan Ruiz de Cabañas, who commissioned the celebrated architect Manuel Tolsá from Mexico City to design the complex. Tolsá took inspiration from the grand institutional structures of Europe, namely Les Invalides in Paris and El Escorial near Madrid. The architecture reflects this lineage, with its formal symmetry and sober elegance. Although it continued to house orphans well into the late 20th century, today it serves as a cultural centre, housing galleries that range from classical works to modern installations.
Our visit began with an exhibition on José Clemente Orozco, the acclaimed Mexican muralist. Alongside his oil paintings was a scientific analysis of his techniques—perhaps not everyone’s cup of tea, but I found the combination of art and research quietly fascinating. Nearby was a digital exhibition on Roman mosaics. The mosaics themselves hadn’t been transported, but through thoughtful projections, the exhibit captured their essence rather well. As we wandered deeper into the vast, echoing halls, we came across smaller galleries tucked into corners and courtyards. Many displayed modern works, including an excellent photographic series featuring 200 images taken across Jalisco. From local festivals to remote landscapes, it offered a strong sense of place. Eventually, we returned to the main chapel for what is undoubtedly the museum’s centrepiece—Orozco’s murals.
Orozco’s Murals and the Language of Art
We arrived just as an English-language tour began, led by a young but knowledgeable guide named Esteban. We joined a modest group in the main chapel beneath the immense dome. The murals, 57 in all, were painted by Orozco between 1937 and 1939 while the building still housed orphans. They are powerful and unflinching depictions of Mexican history and ideology. Scenes include ritual sacrifice, the brutality of colonisation, the Spanish Inquisition, and the relentless advance of industrialisation. It’s sobering to consider that children once lived among these harrowing images.
The most famous of these is El Hombre en Llamas (Man on Fire), painted directly onto the chapel’s dome. Viewed from below, it seems to flicker and move, a trick of perspective that gives the impression of motion and heat. Interpretations vary—some see it as a symbolic act of rebirth, others suggest it references Prometheus or pays homage to Mexico’s tradition of muralism. Regardless of meaning, it’s a striking piece of work, executed with technical brilliance and deep feeling.
Before leaving, we discovered a final exhibit entirely centred on language and words. A dark room filled with multicoloured illuminated text led into a series of conceptual installations. One featured the repeated word “silence” across a giant panel, another showed a man at his typewriter, surrounded by plastic balls resembling discarded pages. A looping film of typewriter keys added a soundtrack of relentless clacking. The ideas behind the works were sometimes curious, sometimes amusing, although the security guard assigned to that room looked less than entertained by the constant racket. We ended with a mosaic of Spanish phrases about books and libraries—a tidy thematic conclusion to an afternoon devoted to creativity and memory.
A Strange Encounter and a Simple Supper
Still energised, we decided to try once again to visit L’ol-lin Vegan, a small plant-based restaurant that had been closed the night before. En route, we detoured through what looked like a department store, only to find ourselves in an enormous jewellery market. The place was dense with security, with guards posted at each row of booths. I had made the mistake of leaving my sunglasses on indoors and was quickly approached by another guard. Though we didn’t fully understand his Spanish, the message was clear enough: remove the glasses or attract suspicion. It was an awkward exchange, but we left without further issue.
This time, we found L’ol-lin Vegan open. A modest space with just four tables, but the food made the visit worthwhile. We shared two dishes, both simple but well-prepared—fresh, flavourful and clearly made with care. After a long and richly varied day, it felt like the perfect way to wind down. Between murals, unexpected installations, and a slightly tense moment in a jewellery market, Guadalajara had delivered a day full of contrasts and surprises.
A Morning Among Churches and Quiet Courtyards
The following morning—our last full day in Guadalajara—came with a mild sense of urgency. We began with the city’s most famous landmark, the Guadalajara Cathedral. We’d passed it often, but until now, had only admired it from outside. Just five minutes from the hotel, it made sense to start the day there. The original structure, built in 1541, was a simple wooden chapel. It burned down in 1574, and in 1561, construction began on a more substantial version. The building was mostly complete by 1618, though it wasn’t consecrated until 1716. Over the years, earthquakes have taken a heavy toll, toppling towers in 1818 and again in 1849, with more damage recorded in the 1990s and 2003.
None of that was on our minds as we stepped inside. The interior was vast and light-filled, with whitewashed walls that gave the space an unusual sense of openness. Small side chapels invited quiet exploration, and we eventually found a crypt beneath the altar where past religious figures rest. After the cathedral, we paused at a nearby bakery for coffee and cake, though the food didn’t quite match the morning’s ambience. Still, spirits were high, and we carried on to the Plaza de la Liberación, between the cathedral and the Teatro Degollado. We sat for a while watching a crew unloading a cherry picker for what appeared to be a coming festival.
Painted Ceilings and a Detour to Tlaquepaque
Next came the Biblioteca Iberoamericana. Housed in a former 17th-century chapel, it had caught our interest with an image of its painted ceiling. Inside, we found a vaulted ceiling in deep red, dotted with gold stars, accompanied by murals from David Alfaro Siqueiros and Amado de la Cueva. The blend of religious architecture and public learning gave the space a calm dignity.
We followed this with a walk through several plazas, visiting churches, a busy street market, and admiring Guadalajara’s fondness for wide public squares. Eventually, on impulse, we boarded the light rail to Tlaquepaque, a suburb known for its artistic heritage.
The train dropped us about 1.5 kilometres from the historic centre, and the walk in was quiet and residential. As we neared the central plaza, the atmosphere changed entirely. Cafés and boutiques appeared, and the streets were strung with colourful banners. After a bite from a street food cart—steamed corn and vegetables, simply done but full of flavour—we explored the area. Tlaquepaque was relaxed and welcoming. We browsed shops and galleries along Calle Independencia, took in more churches, and eventually ended up at a rooftop café with an excellent view over the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Solitude. The light shifted to gold as we sat there, watching the domes and spires against the sky.
For a day that began with modest intentions, it unfolded into one of the trip’s quiet highlights. Tlaquepaque wasn’t part of the original plan, but it proved to be an ideal end to our time in Guadalajara—calm, beautiful, and full of character. Sometimes, it seems, the best travel moments are the ones that aren’t planned at all.
Getting to and around Guadalajara
✈️ Getting to Guadalajara
Guadalajara is well connected by air, with its international airport—Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla Guadalajara International Airport (GDL)—located around 25 kilometres south of the city centre. While there are no direct flights from the UK, you can reach Guadalajara via one-stop connections through major hubs such as Madrid, Dallas, Houston, or Mexico City, depending on your airline. The airport is modern and fairly efficient, offering taxis, car hire, and ride-share options for your onward journey. If you’re travelling from elsewhere in Mexico, domestic flights are frequent and competitively priced, especially from Mexico City, Monterrey, or Cancún.
For those already in Mexico, long-distance buses are a popular and reliable option. Guadalajara’s main bus terminal, Central Nueva, serves routes from across the country, with services run by reputable companies like ETN, Primera Plus, and ADO. The buses are comfortable, often air-conditioned, and reasonably priced, making overland travel a practical choice.
🚖 Getting Around the City
Guadalajara is a large but manageable city to explore. The historic centre is relatively compact, so it’s easy to walk between many of the major sights, such as the cathedral, Plaza de Armas, Teatro Degollado, and the Hospicio Cabañas. Comfortable footwear and a bit of patience for the heat are all you really need for a satisfying day of sightseeing on foot.
For longer distances, the city’s public transport is affordable and efficient. The light rail system—Sistema de Tren Eléctrico Urbano (SITEUR)—has three lines, with Line 3 being the most modern and useful for tourists. Tickets are inexpensive and can be bought at vending machines in the stations. Buses also cover the city extensively, though routes can be confusing without a transport app or some local knowledge.
Taxis are plentiful and relatively cheap, but ride-sharing services like Uber and DiDi are more convenient and tend to be safer and better regulated. Drivers are usually friendly, and using the app avoids any haggling over fares. For day trips beyond the city—such as to Tlaquepaque, Tonalá, or the town of Tequila—public transport works, but hiring a car or arranging a guided tour might be more comfortable if you’re short on time or prefer a bit more structure.
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The best time to visit Guadalajara
🌸 Spring (March to May): Warm Days and Local Festivities
Spring in Guadalajara is generally warm and dry, making it one of the most pleasant times to visit. Average daytime temperatures range from 25°C to 30°C, with cooler evenings that are perfect for exploring the city’s plazas and outdoor cafés. It’s also festival season—the May Cultural Festival is a highlight, showcasing international music, theatre, and art. The jacaranda trees bloom in March and April, decorating the streets with vibrant purple flowers and adding a photogenic quality to already picturesque surroundings.
This season is ideal for travellers who enjoy cultural events without the crowds and intense heat of summer. However, it’s worth packing sun protection, as the sun can be quite strong, especially at higher altitudes.
☀️ Summer (June to August): Hot Temperatures and Afternoon Rain
Summer in Guadalajara brings higher humidity and daytime temperatures regularly climbing above 30°C. It also marks the start of the rainy season, with showers often occurring in the late afternoon or evening. These downpours are usually short-lived but can be intense. On the upside, the rain cools the air and brings out the greenery in parks and public gardens, making the city feel lush and vibrant.
If you don’t mind the heat and occasional storms, summer can be a rewarding time to visit. Tourist numbers drop a little during this period, which means fewer crowds at museums and historical sites. Just remember to bring light clothing and perhaps an umbrella or a rain jacket.
🍂 Autumn (September to November): Festivals and Comfortable Weather
Autumn is another excellent time to visit. The rainy season begins to taper off in September, and by October the skies are mostly clear. Temperatures ease into a more comfortable range—typically between 22°C and 28°C. This season also hosts some of the region’s most important cultural celebrations, including Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) in early November, when altars, marigolds, and candles appear throughout the city.
Guadalajara’s vibrant cultural calendar continues with local fairs and music events. The weather, combined with the festivities, makes autumn especially appealing for those wanting a rich and atmospheric experience without the discomfort of extreme heat.
❄️ Winter (December to February): Cool Mornings and Clear Skies
Winter in Guadalajara is mild compared to European standards. Daytime temperatures hover between 20°C and 25°C, though mornings and evenings can be cool, sometimes dipping below 10°C. Rain is rare, and skies are typically clear and bright. It’s a great season for sightseeing, walking tours, and day trips to nearby towns like Tequila and Tlaquepaque.
The festive atmosphere picks up in December with Christmas celebrations and continues into January with events like Three Kings’ Day. Tourist numbers rise around the holidays, so it’s advisable to book accommodation in advance if you’re travelling during this period. It’s also a good time for food lovers, as winter menus in local restaurants often include seasonal specialities.
In summary:
Spring offers warm, dry weather and blooming jacarandas 🌸
Summer is hot with short daily rains ☀️
Autumn brings cultural richness and ideal temperatures 🍂
Winter is cool and crisp with festive charm ❄️
Where to stay in Guadalajara
1. Luxury – Hotel Aló Degollado
2. Mid-Range – Six Hotel Guadalajara Degollado
3. Budget – Hostel Hospedarte Centro
