Honduras: Copán Ruinas

February 11, 2025
Honduras
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The main plan for the day was to head to the famous ruins of Copán, which were only about a 15-minute walk from the hotel. Before setting off we headed to the restaurant for breakfast. We got there before they had really started to get going and they were somewhat surprised to see, but they soon swung into action. Vegetarians seemed to be a foreign concept to them, but eventually, everything worked out and we were fuelled for a day of exploration.

We arrived at the entrance to the archaeological site just after it had opened, so things were very quiet. Close to the ruins is a bird sanctuary called Macaw Mountain, where they rescue several species of birds, with a special focus on scarlet macaws. Part of their programme is to release birds back into the wild once they are ready, and the main release site is on the grounds of the Copán archaeological site. At around 8:30 in the morning, a tasty helping of fresh fruit is loaded onto feeding platforms along the pathway leading from the entrance of the archaeological site to the ruins themselves. We were very lucky as we arrived just in time to catch the macaws feeding – they are truly spectacular birds!

But it was now time to go and discover more about Copán ruins.

About Copán Ruins
Back in the day, Copán was a powerful city-state ruling a vast kingdom, reaching its peak of power in the Late Classic period (600-900 CE). Copán once covered an area of around 15 sq miles/25 km, which is about a quarter of the size of Tikal and had a population of around 20,000 people with 6000-9000 of them living in central Copán. Evidence of population in the Copán Valley dates back to 1500 BCE, but the city is thought to have been built in the Classic Period of 200-600 CE.

Copán had 17 rulers. The first, Yax Kuk Mo, came from the Tikal (Petén) area in 427 CE. The city grew and major cultural developments took place with significant achievements in mathematics, astronomy and hieroglyphic writing. The city suffered a catastrophic disaster in 738 CE. when Uaxaclajuun Ub’aah K’awiil, one of Copán’s greatest rulers, was captured and beheaded by his former vassal, the king of Quiriguá. The unexpected defeat resulted in a 17-year hiatus as the city struggled and records fell quiet.

Within a few decades, Copán’s rulers began to build monumental structures again, although populations began to decline. Over the following centuries, the site experienced the same collapse as other Mayan cities in Central America. The last recorded ruler was Ukit Took who ascended to the throne in 822 CE. By the 10th century, the site was abandoned completely.

Stelae Plaza
The main path leads to an area called Stelae Plaza. It has also been known as Monument Plaza, Sun Plaza and the Grand Plaza. The plaza has 7 stelae and their accompanying altars, as well as 3 other monuments. Some of the stelae are covered by a shelter to protect them from the elements. In the centre of the plaza is a pyramid-shaped platform that you can climb on to get some better views.

The Ball Court

To the southeast side of the plaza is the ball court. The Mayans loved their ball games, it was not only a sport but an important part of their culture. The ball court at Copán is one of the largest ever built. The slanted walls of the ball court are decorated with the sculptured heads of 6 macaws, three on each side. There is a dedication inscription that took place in 738 CE. The most iconic view of the ball court is from the top of the acropolis.

Hieroglyphic Stairway
Just beyond the ball court is what is catchily named Temple 26, an imposing pyramid which contains two tombs of important people. One of the tombs was covered by a carved stone slab known as the Motmot Capstone which includes the oldest text from Copan. The temple at the summit has mostly disappeared with only remnants left standing.

The most important feature of this temple however is the magnificent Hieroglyphic Stairway that ascends 26 meters (86 feet) from the plaza to the summit. It has a width of 10 meters (30 feet). This extraordinary stairway consists of over 2,000 individual stone glyphs arranged on 63 steps and relates the history of the ruling dynasty. It is by far the longest glyphic inscription in the Maya World.

The Acropolis

From the Stelae Plaza, we climbed to the top of the main structure at the Copán, the Acropolis, the heart of Copan. Over time, successive rulers expanded the Acropolis by adding pyramids, terraces, and temples, creating a sprawling complex that rises 30 meters (98 feet) above the ground. The acropolis mainly lies in ruins, but its scale is still impressive and there are many stone carvings, statues and heads from statues around to look at around the area.

Below the ruins are several tunnels that were dug by the explorers of the site to access the lower parts of the Acropolis. Some of these can be visited with a guide for an extra cost. We decided not to go down as I had mixed reviews, and Karen did fancy these would work well with her claustrophobia – so instead we headed back to the archaeological park entrance to visit the sculpture museum.

Statue Museum

The Mayans used the local soft, porous volcanic rock to build their structures at Copán, and sadly these have suffered exposure for centuries to sun, wind, rain, and temperature changes, resulting in flaking, erosion, and loss of details or whole sections of carving. So, in 1996 the sculpture museum was opened to preserve the delicate sculptures of Copán. Some of the monumental stelae and altars are now protected and exhibited inside the museum, along with sculptural façades that archaeologists excavated and reconstructed from jumbled piles of stone fallen from temples at the ruins. The exhibits represent the best-known examples of building façades and sculptural achievements from the ancient kingdom of Copán. The entrance leads dramatically into a winding tunnel passageway that transports museum visitors to another place and time. It was also designed to give visitors the feeling of passing through the tunnels that archaeologists dig to reveal the earlier constructions buried inside later buildings. The museum was very interesting and well worth visiting!

Planning your visit

How to Get There

By Air:

Nearest Airport: Ramón Villeda Morales International Airport (SAP) in San Pedro Sula.
From San Pedro Sula , take a bus or private shuttle to Copán Ruinas (about 3.5-4 hours).

By Bus:

Hedman Alas and Casasola Express offer comfortable bus services from San Pedro Sula to Copán Ruinas.
You can also take a bus from Guatemala City (via Chiquimula) or from Antigua, Guatemala.

By Car:

If renting a car, the drive from San Pedro Sula is about 4 hours.
From Antigua, Guatemala, it’s around a 6-hour drive.

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The best time to visit

The best time to visit Copán Ruinas in Honduras is during the dry season, which runs from November to April. Here’s why:

Best Months to Visit

November to April (Dry Season) – The weather is pleasant, with minimal rainfall, making it ideal for exploring the Mayan ruins, hiking, and enjoying outdoor activities.
March & April – These months have great weather and coincide with Semana Santa (Holy Week), a lively time to experience local traditions and festivities.

Months to Avoid (Rainy Season)

May to October – This is the rainy season, with high humidity and frequent showers, which can make visiting the ruins muddy and less enjoyable.

Special Events & Festivals

Semana Santa (March/April) – Colorful religious processions and celebrations.
Guacamaya Festival (June-July) – Honors the scarlet macaw, a sacred bird in Mayan culture.
Copán Fair (March 19th) – A local festival celebrating the town’s patron saint.

If you want good weather and fewer crowds, visit November to February. If you’re looking for a more cultural experience, March and April are the best months.

Where to stay in Copán, Honduras