Guatemala: Lake Atitlan – Chichicastenango

May 26, 2024
Solola
0 Comments

Chichicastenango is one of the most important towns in Guatemala since it treasures a lot of Mayan culture, history and traditions. Back in the day, it was one of the largest trading centres in the Maya area.

We had booked ourselves onto a trip to visit to the town of Chichicastenango, more commonly known simply as Chichi. The town is only about 25km from Panajachel, but we were told that it could take up to an hour to get there with the traffic and the narrow, winding roads. At 8:30 a packed shuttle van arrived to carry us on our way to Chichi. We squeezed in and introduced ourselves to the rest of the assembled passengers.

Sure enough, it was a slow journey through the mountain roads, passing through several small towns and villages along the way. Our driver fancied himself as a Formula One driver (as do most Guatemalan men) so when the road did open up, he put his foot down, much to Karen’s consternation.

Just over an hour after leaving we pulled into Chichi.

Chichicastenango is one of the most important towns in Guatemala since it treasures a lot of Mayan culture, history and traditions. It is the home of the Quiché people (the largest group of Mayan population). Back in the day, it was one of the largest trading centres in the Maya area. It was here in this mystic place where the original Popol Vuh was found. The discovery of this Mayan advisory book meant a big breakthrough in understanding Mayan history. The Popol Vuh book narrates the origin of the world, humanity, and natural hazards from the mystic perspective of the Mayan civilisation.

On Thursdays and Sundays, this small mountain town is transformed into the world’s largest handicrafts market.

Once off the shuttle van, we went in search of the market. It was not hard to find as the whole of the historic centre of the town is host to market stalls filled with pottery, colourful textiles, carved wooden masks, flowers, incense and other Mayan goods for sale. We hadn’t come here in search of anything in particular! We had no plans to buy anything as we had no room in our bags and still had many weeks of travel ahead of us. We’d come largely out of curiosity and the chance to explore this cultural phenomenon – our presence was going to be a big disappointment for all the locals hawking their goods. Luckily, for them, there were plenty of other tourists in search of a bargain to take back home.

We wandered through the streets stopping occasionally to look at anything that caught the eye. Although the market is a big draw for visiting tourists it also brings many locals to town, which was nice to see. It was a bustling mass of people, and the colours, sounds and smells were a sensory overload. That said, it was lovely to soak up the market day atmosphere among the narrow streets of Chichi.

One of the highlights for us was when we discovered a small indoor market with vendors selling produce. The displays of vegetables and fruits were delightful, and we got a birds-eye view of the proceedings from the balcony that ran around the second floor of the building.

In the centre of the town are two old churches: Capilla del Calvario and Iglesia de Santo Tomás. The Capilla del Calvario is a small, white-washed church, which you get to via some steps. Inside the church is a traditional altar, but on the floor in the centre of the church aisle were two large stone Mayan on which were lit candles. Shamen use these altars to perform traditional rituals. Around these stone circles sat groups of local people. This is not an uncommon sight in some communities in Guatemala and southern Mexico, where traditional Mayan rituals are performed within Catholic churches.

Not too far away from Capilla del Calvario is the Iglesia de Santo Tomas, which was built around 1545 atop a pre-Columbian temple platform. The steps originally leading to a temple of the pre-Hispanic Maya civilization remain venerated. K’iche’ Maya priests still use the church for their rituals, burning incense and candles. Each of the 18 stairs that lead up to the church stands for one month of the Maya calendar year.

We walked across to the church, the outside of which was decorated with purple banners as we were approaching Holy Week. Inside were a handful of people – mostly curious fellow tourists.

By now we were getting tired of fighting our way around the crowded streets so were looking for ways to fill the time before our shuttle van set sail back for Panajachel. We looked down one of the streets where we spied a cemetery with very brightly coloured tombs, which immediately caught our attention. Visiting cemeteries is one of our quirky passions!

So, we headed down the hill from the centre of the town towards the cemetery. When we arrived, we were blown away by the rainbow of colours and the scale of some of the family tombs. We have visited many cemeteries, but none quite like this.

In summary

If you are looking for some souvenirs to take back home this is a great place to visit
It will likely take most of the day travelling from Panajachel or Antigua
Don’t miss the churches and the cemetery as these give an interesting insight into Maya-Coatholic culture in Guatemala.

Planning your visit to Chichicastenango

Taxi
This is the easiest (but also the most expensive) way to get to Chichicastenango market – your driver will pick you up at your hotel, wait for you while you explore the market, and bring you back whenever you’re ready.

Shared shuttle
Shared shuttles from Panajachel leave around 8 am from your hotel and arrive in Chichi about 1.5 hours later. You’ll have about four hours to explore the market before getting the return shuttle at 2 pm from outside the Hotel Santo Tomas in Chichicastenango. Don’t be late, or you’ll miss your ride home.

Chicken Bus
This is the budget option for travelling to Chichicastenango – possibly the most fun! These buses are known as ‘colectivos’ and are Guatemala’s main form of public transport. They are former US school buses that have been imported, modified, and brightly decorated with stickers, shiny chrome trims and colourful paintwork.

If you take this route it’s highly likely you’ll have to change buses at least a couple of times, at Solola and Los Encuentros. This journey will be dirt cheap but could be uncomfortable and long!

The best time to visit Chichicastenango

The best time to visit Chichicastenango
Based on climate parameters, the most agreeable time to visit Chichicastenango is from December to March. During these months, the weather is at its driest and sunniest. Temperatures are pleasant, with the highs oscillating around 21.9°C (71.4°F) to 23.8°C (74.8°F) and the lows hovering approximately between 10.2°C (50.4°F) to 13.3°C (55.9°F). The least rain showers occur during February, creating a warm, dry climate perfect for exploring the local attractions. Daylight hours remain consistent around 11.4 to 12.5 hours per day, facilitating longer sightseeing schedules.

The worst time to visit Chichicastenango
The less desirable period for travel would likely fall from May to November. The reasons being heavy rainfall, especially during May which records a massive 372mm (14.65″) of precipitation, consistently high humidity, and limited sunshine hours. Aside from the likelihood of rainfall dampening outdoor activities, the heightened humidity could result in some discomfort. Despite these drawbacks, it’s worth mentioning that temperatures remain relatively moderate, and natural beauty is at its peak due to the proliferating green landscapes during these wet months.

Where to stay in Panajachel

1. Luxury – Hotel Atitlan

Hotel Atitlan, located in front of Lake Atitlán, is a rustic-style property offering extensive gardens and panoramic views of Atitlan Lake. It has an outdoor pool, hot tub, and a botanical garden.

2. Mid-Range – Posada De Los Volcanes

Situated 47 km from Volcano Atitlan, Posada De Los Volcanes offers 3-star accommodation in Panajachel and has a garden. The accommodation features a 24-hour front desk, airport transfers, a concierge service and free WiFithroughout the property.