Guatemala: Petén – Tikal Archaeological Site
The ancient Mayan city of Tikal is the largest pre-Hispanic settlement in Guatemala, with its population reaching around 100,000 inhabitants at its peak. Tikal has around 5,000 pre-Hispanic buildings in an area of approximately 16km², of which only 5% are restored.
Our alarm cruelly woke us up at 4:15am the next morning, and like a couple of zombies, we got dressed and went downstairs to meet Eric, our hotel manager, to take us across to Flores Island where we’d be meeting the shuttle bus to take us to the Tikal archaeological zone. When we’d been sold the tickets they had convinced us the early start would be best as we’d miss the crowds and the heat of the day. The advice had seemed good at the time – now we were not quite so sure.
On the island’s waterfront where the buses arrive, close to the causeway across to the mainland several minibuses were parked. As people arrived they were sent towards different shuttles and buses depending on which tour you had booked. We seemed to be in the smallest of the shuttle buses, but at this time of the morning, I didn’t care too much about being squeezed in for the short journey. Despite arriving at 4:30 am it was after 5:00 am before the bus finally pulled away.
The ride to Tikal took around 45 minutes, and we arrived at the gate of the park at around 5:45 am, before the ticket office opened. Even as we waited more and more people turned up, so we were now starting the appreciate the benefit of the early arrival!
Once the ticket office opened up we were through in no time and on our way. We were the first transport to enter the park!
From the park entrance to the main archaeological zone, it is about 18km, so our guide told us to keep an eye out for wildlife. If we were really lucky we might see a jaguar. Which of course never happened!
By the time we reached the visitor centre, it had started to become light, although it was looking like it might be a mostly cloudy day for our visit. On the short walk from the parking lot to the visitor centre we spied a couple of toucans flying around us followed by a group of spider monkeys swinging through the trees. The park at Tikal is much more than an archaeological site, it is also a very important wildlife preserve!
The plan was to have breakfast in the restaurant before heading out on our tour – but the restaurant had yet to open. So, our guide took us to a huge model of what the centre of Tikal would have looked like and gave us an overview of this city State’s history and what our tour was going to look like for the day. As if by magic, once he was done the restaurant was open and we sat down for breakfast. We opted for the ‘tipico’ breakfast – eggs, refried beans, plantains and some salsa. Sadly, not much love was put into the making of the food so it was somewhat disappointing.
Once we were all through with eating and drinking we headed off to the entrance to the archaeological zone.
The History of Tikal
Tikal was most likely to have been called Yax Mutal and is one of the largest archaeological sites and urban centres of the pre-Columbian Maya civilization In 1979 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Tikal was the capital of a conquest state that became one of the most powerful kingdoms of the ancient Maya. Though monumental architecture at the site dates back as far as the 4th century BCE, Tikal reached its apogee during the Classic Period, circa 200 CE to 900 CE. During this time, the city dominated much of the Maya region politically, economically, and militarily, while interacting with areas throughout Mesoamerica such as the great metropolis of Teotihuacan in the distant Valley of Mexico. There is evidence that Tikal was conquered by Teotihuacan in the 4th century CE. Following the end of the Late Classic Period, no new major monuments were built at Tikal and there is evidence that elite palaces were burned. These events were coupled with a gradual population decline, culminating with the site’s abandonment by the end of the 10th century.
Tikal is the best understood of any of the large lowland Maya cities, with a long dynastic ruler list, the discovery of the tombs of many of the rulers on this list and the investigation of their monuments, temples and palaces.
Complex O
The first area we were taken to was a group of small temples. One of the temples had been fully excavated and it was possible to climb the steps to the top. At the base of the temple, several large stones had been set in pairs. One stone was flat on the ground and the other in front of it standing vertically. These would have been typical Mayan altar configurations. Not too far from this pyramid was a similar-sized mound, covered in vegetation and trees. Under this is another pyramid that has not been excavated and shows how the ruins of Tikal would have looked when the first archaeologists arrived on the scene. It is typical to leave unexcavated buildings covered like this to protect them from the elements and further decline.
Our journey continued along the trails of the National Park, where we could hear the howler monkeys calling from the trees around us. Eventually, we came across a band of howlers in the trees above our heads. Karen and I had experience with these monkeys from the past and quickly moved from being underneath where they were. I moved not a moment too soon as a huge branch landed just where I had been standing – it would have hurt a lot to be hit by that! A little further on we stopped to watch a large, brightly coloured wild turkey walking towards us down the road. It didn’t seem to care too much about us being there.
Templo IV
After leaving our friendly turkey behind we arrived at what is known as the ‘Templo IV. This pyramid was constructed around 741 and was to honour the 27th king of the Tikal dynasty and is thought to be the tallest structure built by the ancient Maya.
The pyramid has a rectangular base and stands 64.6 metres (212 feet) from its supporting platform to the highest part of the roof comb. The pyramid body consists of seven stepped levels with slanting talud walls, an architectural style commonly seen in pre-Columbian Mesoamerica buildings, especially temples.
As we stood listening to our guide talk about this particular temple, he suddenly looked up and pointed to a bird roosting in a tree above us. It was a quetzal, unfortunately not the resplendent quetzal, but a beautiful bird. The feathers of the quetzal were much prized among the Mayan people.
Templo IV has been partially restored, and the original stairways are not in good condition, but you can get to a viewing platform close to the top via a wooden staircase, which is a bit of a climb, but well worth it. From the Templo IV viewing platform, you can see across the jungle of the National Park, and see other temples sticking up from above the canopy.
Mundo Perido
Just a short walk from Temple IV is another impressive area of ruins known as the ‘Lost World’ Complex.
The Mundo Perdido (Spanish for “Lost World”) is the largest ceremonial complex in Tikal and is the oldest. There are 38 buildings, with the oldest dating back to 700 BCE. Later structures show evidence of being influenced by Teotihuacán. The Mundo Perdido complex was rebuilt many times throughout its history.
The large plaza centred upon the Lost World Pyramid and the ceremonial platform to the west. The pyramid is 32m high and 80m along the base and is surrounded by four heavily eroded stairways, with huge masks flanking each one. The stairway facing eastward is thought to have functioned as a platform for viewing the sun’s trajectory against a trio of structures on a raised platform to the east.
Today, because of the condition of the original stairs you cannot climb the pyramid via these, but like for Templo IV they have constructed a wooden staircase and a platform on the top so you can go to the top and admire the view of the Mundo Perdido plaza from above.
Templo V
Not too far from the Mundo Perdido is another pyramid known simply as Templo V, which stands at 57 metres (187 feet), making it the second-tallest structure at Tikal behind Temple IV. Dated to the early part of the Late Classic period, the structure consists of a pyramid base with seven tiers and rounded corners. During the temple’s excavation, the scientists established that it has no substructure, which means that it was built a single construction around 650 CE making it one of the earliest structures in Tikal.
Royal Palace
We followed a path from Temple V to an extensive set of ruins that were likely to have been the Royal palace for over four centuries. There is a large depression next to the complex that would have been a reservoir filled with water. Inside the palace there are nearly fifty buildings set around a dozen or so small courtyards. The first structures were built from 350 BCE to 1 CE and consisted of masonry platforms with wooden structures on them. The masonry palace that was later built between 250 and 550 CE appears to have been built ontop of the earlier platforms.
A couple of spider monkeys were hanging around, literally, on a tree above a small courtyard. This provided great entertainment for a group of small children!
The Grand Plaza
Our guide then explained that he would next be showing us the best view in Tikal. He led us through the structures onto a platform of the central Acropolis, which was an extension of the palace complex.
Before us was the Grand Plaza of Tikal. The view was stunning.
The central part of the plaza was a grassy area, covering about 1.5 acres, that would have at one time been covered by stone.
To the west and the east of the plaza are two amazing pyramids.
The Temple of the Great Jaguar
The largest of these, set to the east, is the Temple of the Great Jaguar (known as Temple I). The pyramid is 47m (155 feet tall) and was built as the funerary pyramid for Jasaw Chan K’awil. The king was placed inside the pyramid after he died in 734 CE, but its construction was not completed until sometime between 740 and 750 CE.
The burial chamber is located inside the pyramid below the level of the Central Plaza. The king’s body was laid on a woven mat on top of a stone bench. The was filled with treasures including jaguar skins, a necklace with 114 large beads, weighing 3.9kg (8.6 pounds), numerous jade objects, painted ceramics, shells, pearls and 37 human bones with carved hieroglyphs.
The shrine at the top of the pyramid has three chambers. The doorways connecting the chambers were spanned by wooden lintels carved from sapodilla wood. Two were removed and disappeared and the other two were given to the British Museum in London.
The stairways leading to the top of the pyramid are very steep and worn. For safety reasons, visitors are no longer allowed to climb them.
The Temple of the Mask
The second temple, Temple II, is also known as “Temple of the Mask”. King Jasaw Chan K’awiil I built it in honour of his wife Lady Kalajuun Une’ Mo’ (Twelve Macaw Tails) around 700 CE. The pyramid is 30m (125ft) tall, but it is believed that it used to be 42m tall when it was built due to the original roof comb.
At the top of the stairway of the pyramid, on the upper platform, are two grotesque masks, which gave this pyramid its monika, the Temple of the Masks.
Before the shrine on top is a large masonry block that was built into the stairway. It may have served as a platform so that the priests could see the crowd and could be seen.
This pyramid is the best preserved of all those in Tikal, and visitors can reach the top via a wooden staircase and look across the Grand Plaza.
The North Acropolis
On the north side of the Grand Plaza is the North Acropolis, which was used as a cemetery for over 1300 years. The acropolis is actually a series of connected temples containing tombs, that was expanded over many centuries to accommodate more burials. The first activities have been traced back to 800 BCE with the first structures appearing around 350 BCE. In this period a 49m (161 feet) wide causeway was built to connect the North Acropolis with the Mundo Perdido complex to the southwest.
At around 250 CE, the complex underwent major reconstruction and began to be used as a royal cemetery and new structures were built over older ones. The North Acropolis reached its current size around 400 CE. The burials of kings here stopped at the North Acropolis after Jasaw Chan K’awil, but burials continued for the next several hundred years.
A number of stairways lead up to the North Acropolis from the Great Plaza.
After completing looking around Grand Plaza, our group headed back to the park entrance, where we grabbed a much-needed cold drink before heading back to Flores.
In summary
- The archaeological site of Tikal is one of the most important of the Mayan in Central America
- It takes about three to four hours to explore with a guide.
- Tikal has some of the best preserved Mayan structures anywhere.
- Tikal was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.
Planning your visit to Tikal
The Flores to Tikal distance is 39.7 miles (63.9 km), and the journey will take around 1 hour.
Bus
Most visitors travel to Tikal from the closest town, Flores, though some visit from San Ignacio in Belize. Public transport is really only an option if you come from Flores. Chicken buses run fairly regularly, with the first bus leaving for Tikal at 3:30 a.m. and the last bus returning to Flores at 5:30 p.m. The travel time between Flores and Tikal is roughly 1.5 hours.
Taxi
Although it’s the most expensive transportation option, it may be convenient if you’re a group of at least 4 people, and you’ll enjoy hassle-free and private transportation.
Tours
The most popular option for getting to Tikal is to go with a tour. While many tours to Tikal include a guide, some provide the option for you to pay only for the shuttle there and back, leaving you to your own devices during the day.
If you have your own vehicle the drive from Flores is simple and will take you less than an hour to reach the entrance.
The best time to visit Tikal
The best time to visit Flores
The optimal period to explore Flores largely depends on the visitors’ weather preferences. However, the relatively drier months, which falls between March and May, could be an excellent opportunity. During this period, rainfall declines from 46mm (1.81″) in March to 39mm (1.54″) in April, increasing slightly to 140mm (5.51″) in May. Temperatures rest within the range of 30°C (86°F) to 33°C (91.4°F) during the day and 19°C (66.2°F) to 22°C (71.6°F) at night, accompanied by optimal sunshine hours.
The worst time to visit Flores
When planning a trip to Flores, it may not be ideal to schedule it during the peak monsoon months, between August and October. These are the wettest period, with more rainfall days (from 17 to 20 days per month) and substantial precipitation volumes, up to 251mm (9.88″) in September. Although temperatures remain agreeably warm, ranging from 31°C (87.8°F) to 32°C (89.6°F) in the day and 21°C (69.8°F) at night, continuous rain might inhibit outdoor pursuits.
Where to stay in Flores
1. Luxury – Hotel Santana
Located on an island amid Peten Itza Lake, this hotel is just 50 metres from the ferry dock and the gold line bus station. Hotel Santana offers free Wi-Fi access and public parking on site. The rooms at Santana are air conditioned and have amenities like a safety deposit box and telephone line. The private bathroom has a shower. Hotel Santana has an on-site restaurant and provides room service.
2. Mid-Range – Hotel Casazul
Featuring rooms with shared terraces , Hotel Casa Azul is set next to the beach on Flores Island. It offers a 24-hour reception and free Wi-Fi in public areas.
Each air-conditioned room at Hotel Casa Azul has bright blue décor. All rooms have a TV, a minibar and a private bathroom with free toiletries.
3. Budget – Los Amigos Hostel
Located in Flores, Los Amigos Hostel features a garden, bar and free WiFi. Featuring a concierge service, this property also provides guests with a sun terrace. The accommodation provides a shared kitchen, room service and currency exchange for guests.
Guest rooms include bed linen.
At the hostel you will find a restaurant serving Middle Eastern, Pizza and Thai cuisine. Vegetarian, dairy-free and halal options can also be requested.
Speaking English, Spanish and Dutch, staff will be happy to provide guests with practical guidance on the area at the reception.