Stretching nearly 185 miles along the entire coastline, Belize has the second largest barrier reef in the world. The Belize coastline is also dotted with hundreds of picturesque, and mostly uninhabited, small islands called cayes (pronounced keys) and three of only four atolls in the Western Hemisphere.
The day after arriving in Caye Caulker we were off to explore the Belize Barrier Reef, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At the time when I booked our full-day snorkelling tour several weeks earlier, I had not expected that we’d be so tired – especially Karen who had just flown back into the UK. I now hoped it would be a relaxing and distracting day for her. Anyway, it was what it was. The good news was that it didn’t start too early, and it was not until 8:00 that we needed to be at the meeting point, which was only a 10-minute walk away. Everything in Caye Caulker is no more than 15 minutes away! The bigger issue was finding the office of Salt Life Eco Tours as all the buildings on the island were not very well signed and often shared. Anyway, we made it in good time – eventually!
The tour was going to take us out to explore a small section of the Belize Barrier Reef.
The Belize Barrier Reef is a series of coral reefs straddling the coast of Belize, roughly 300 metres (980 ft) offshore in the north and 40 kilometres (25 mi) in the south within the country limits. The Belize Barrier Reef is a 300-kilometre (190 mi) long section of the 900-kilometre (560 mi) Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System, which is continuous from Cancún on the north-eastern tip of the Yucatán Peninsula through the Riviera Maya and down to Honduras, making it the second largest coral reef system in the world after the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.
Eventually, it was time to leave. Our vessel was a small boat, that managed to squeeze ten of us on and the two crew; our captain for the day Phillip (who was very gregarious and often) loud and Ibrahim (who was much quieter.
Before heading out to the reef we went in search of manatees. A couple of these large, wonderful beasts had taken up shelter in the bay on the other side of the island. So, Phillip navigated his way through the channel, called the ‘Split’, which separates the two halves of Caye Caulker. The Split was created by Hurricane Hattie, a 1961 cyclone that hit Belize with tremendous ferocity. This storm brought 165-mph winds that ripped through Belize’s coastline. After it passed, the caye had a wide channel of water running through it.
After cruising around for a bit, we managed to find one of the manatees, who Phillip told us was called Lonely. The manatees often cruise around the relatively shallow waters of the Belizean island and the barrier reef, feeding off the sea grass on the seabed. Every couple of weeks they head back inland to the rivers to drink some fresh water as they cannot process saltwater. Phillip also said there was a second manatee who can often be found here, which the locals had named Blob Marley!
We spent about twenty minutes following Lonely around the bay, before heading back through the Split and out to the reef.
Our first snorkelling spot was in a section of the reef close to Caye Caulker where there was a narrow channel through the reef. Phillip told us that this was a great spot for finding sea turtles, so excitedly we donned our snorkel gear and got into the water. We were not disappointed, as within a minute or two we spotted a small leatherback turtle. These are the largest of all sea turtles and can grow to 2.2 metres (7 feet) and weigh over 900 kg (about 2000 pounds). This one was not that large – but still great to see. It didn’t hang around long but almost immediately another turtle arrived, which was a green turtle. This one was more active and swimming close to the surface, so we got a great close-up view of it. It was a great start to the day.
Once all aboard again we set off further along the reef. It was a scorching hot day, but there was a strong wind which kept us cool as we sped along the edge of the reef towards San Pedro. This wind was also whipping up the waves, so the sea was choppy which made the ride quite bumpy.
Our second stop was an area known as Shark Ray Alley. This is part of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. It was an area where fishermen would clean their catches, today it is a top snorkelling location. As the name suggests this is a place to see sharks and rays. Unfortunately, whilst the fishermen no longer clean their catches here, some tour boats feed the sharks and rays which is never a good practice, and the marine park Rangers turn a blind eye to this going on. We were pleased when our captain, Phillip said that Salt Life Eco Tours has a ‘no feed’ policy. Once again, we put on our snorkelling gear and got into to the water. There were many nurse sharks in the water. These gentle creatures are no threat to people, and when not being fed, spend most of their time swimming along the seabed. As well as the nurse sharks there were also some sting rays, called the Southern Stingray, which are found in warm waters like the Caribbean and Western Atlantic Ocean. These stingrays are not the largest rays found on the barrier reef but still span around 1.5 metres (5 feet). We spent about 25 minutes swimming around Shark Ray Alley before re-boarding our boat.
For the next swim we headed to the channel, or cut, in the reef, which is the centre of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve.
The waters are somewhat choppier here, especially on a day like today’s when the winds are up. There are also stronger currents. Karen and I decided to wear our lifejackets for this swim. The other issue in this area is that there are a lot of other boats, I counted around 15, which means there are a lot of people in the water at the same time, so it is easy to get disoriented and lose track of where you are. To help with this, we were split into two groups. One would follow Phillip in the water the other Ibrahim. Despite this, it was still hard to keep track of where you were.
There were a lot more fish in this area, including angel fish and parrot fish. We were shocked though at the state of the reef, it did not look healthy at all, with many of the formations being bleached. Although there were plenty of fish around nothing like the density you might expect on a very healthy reef – although the sheer number of people in the water may have scared this fish away! That said we did get to see some more nurse sharks and got to see another green turtle up close, swimming and coming up for air. Probably the most spectacular sighting here was the eagle sting rays, including one exceptionally large specimen that must have been close to two metres in span.
After lunch, we had a couple more swims. One was an area that the local fisherman used to bring their catches on conches to, and after extracting the meat, they would throw the shells overboard. Over the years a large pile of shells has formed on the seabed, which is an interesting place to explore. The second spot was a wreck close to the reef. It is quite a large boat and is only about two or three metres down, so is ideal for snorkellers to get a close look at.
It was getting time to head back to Caye Caulker. We made a stop at a cut in the reef where manatees like to hang out. None were there. So, we made our way back to the bay at Caye Caulker where we’d seen the manatees in the morning, but they had disappeared.
Before going back to the jetty, we made a call to an area close to the shore where tarpons like to gather, mainly because the tourists feed them. The tarpons grow to about 1.2 metres (4 feet), and luckily for them,, they are not good to eat, because their flesh is full of tiny clear bones. Phillip brought our boat to a stop and encouraged us to hold our hands close to the surface of the water. The tarpons think you are holding food and jump right out of the water, and if you don’t move quickly enough, they give you a little nip, more of a shock than painful.
In summary
- Doing a snokelling tour is one of the best things to do in Belize. You can do a full or half day tour depending on your level of interest
- Don’t make the same mistake as me and wear sunscreen and something to protect you from sun both in and out of the water
- The tour may include water and drinks, but take your own just in case.
Planning your visit to Caye Caulker
Caye Caulker is a small Caribbean island off the coast of Belize. It’s divided by a narrow channel called the Split, where there’s a bar and a sandy beach. To the south is the island’s only settlement, known as Caye Caulker Village. The north of the island is home to dense mangrove forest and diverse birdlife, protected by a forest reserve. The whole island is only 5 miles long.
Getting to Caye Caulker
Caye Caulker is a small island and the only way of getting there is by boat.
There are water taxis from the Belize mainland and other islands. You can also get a water taxi from the small Mexican town of Chetumal (which is what we did).
Getting around Caye Caulker
Being such a small place there is no need for cars, so you will hardly see any on the island apart from a delivery truck or two. Everyone gets around by golfbuggy, bicylce or walking. The streets are barely paved and are covered with sand. In Caye Caulker Village there are only three roads running north to south with a few roads running across. It won’t take you long to walk around the place.
The village used to rely of fishing for its income, today it is all about the tourists. There is a laid back, Caribbean-vibe to the island – this is much more Jamaica than Cancun! Here all the signs are in English and this is the official language, although the locals use a version of Creole to converse among themselves.
There are of course many bars and restaurants. Expect to pay high prices here!
Snorkelling and diving tours
There are plenty of companies offering snorkelling and diving tours, and you can book a tour when you arrive. We like to choose ethical companies so I usually research and book tours before I arrive. After looking around I went with Salt Life Eco Tours and we were not disappointed at all. They were very professional, had good equipment, experienced guides and did not participate in feeding the fish and mammals to attract them to our boat.
The best time to visit Caye Caulker
The best time to visit Caye Caulker
The finest time for a visit to Caye Caulker would be from February to April. During this period, rainfall is at its lowest, with only 37mm (1.46″) to 49mm (1.93″), spread over 4 to 5 days in a month. The average high temperature hovers around 29°C (84.2°F) to 31°C (87.8°F), while the low fluctuates between 20°C (68°F) and 22°C (71.6°F). This creates a warm and welcoming environment. Furthermore, daylight lasts for approximately 12 hours, coupled with an average of 8 hours of sunshine a day, making it ideal for outdoor activities and sunbathing.
The worst time to visit Caye Caulker
The least favorable period to be in Caye Caulker is from September to November. These months are characterized by heavy rainfall, ranging from 174mm (6.85″) to 245mm (9.65″), and a high number of rainy days, 15 to 16 days on average in a month. Added to this, the high UV index of 12 signifies a higher probability of heat-related problems and necessitates extra precautions, especially for sensitive skin types.
Where to stay in Caye Caulker
1. Luxury – Treetops Hotel
Located in Caye Caulker and with Caye Caulker Beach reachable within a few steps, Treetops Hotel provides express check-in and check-out, allergy-free rooms, a fitness centre, free WiFi and a garden. Each accommodation at the 5-star hotel has garden views, and guests can enjoy access to a terrace and to a private beach area. Certain units at the property include a balcony with a sea view.
The hotel will provide guests with air-conditioned rooms offering a wardrobe, a kettle, a fridge, a safety deposit box, a flat-screen TV and a private bathroom with a bath.
2. Mid-Range – Jaguar Morningstar
A comfortable guest house within easy reach of Caye Caulker Beach, JAGUAR MORNING STAR offers a base for a hassle-free getaway in Caye Caulker. The property offers free bikes, garden and free WiFi for guests to make the most of their stay. All units are air-conditioned and some of them have a seating area with a TV, and a fully equipped kitchen with a dining area. Some units feature a balcony and/or a patio with garden views and outdoor furniture. At the guest house, all units have a private bathroom.
3. Budget – Rainbow Hotel
Located right on the water in Caye Corker Town Centre, Rainbow Hotel offers an on-site restaurant and excellent views of the Caribbean Sea. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout. The bright rooms here are air-conditioned and feature a dining area with a microwave. They also come with a flat-screen cable TV, a safety-deposit box and a private bathroom with a shower and toilet. Rainbow Hotel’s restaurant serves seafood and international dishes, and guests can find other restaurants within just 200 metres.