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Turkey: Istanbul – Hagia Sophia

One of the places we wanted to visit during our time in Istanbul was Hagia Sofia. It is one of the iconic sights of Istanbul and has been at the centre of the history of the city for nearly two millenia. When we arrived outside we were enthralled by the magnificence of the building, and could not wait to go inside – but wait we had to as we arrived during prayers. It was not too long though before we were able to inside and soak in the atmosphere and admire the sheer scale of the place.

The original church on the site of the Hagia Sophia is said to have been ordered to be built by Constantine I in 325 on the foundations of a pagan temple. His son, Constantius II, consecrated it in 360. It was damaged in 404 by a fire that erupted during a riot. It was rebuilt and enlarged by the Roman emperor Constans I. The restored building was rededicated in 415 by Theodosius II. The church was burned again in the Nika insurrection of January 532, a circumstance that gave Justinian I an opportunity to envision a splendid replacement.

The resultant Hagia Sophia was built in a remarkably short time of about six years, being completed in 537 CE. The structure now standing is essentially the 6th-century edifice, although an earthquake caused a partial collapse of the dome in 558 (restored 562) and there were two further partial collapses, after which it was rebuilt to a smaller scale and the whole church reinforced from the outside. It was restored again in the mid-14th century.

After the Turkish conquest of Constantinople in 1453, Mehmed II had it repurposed as a mosque, with the addition of a wooden minaret (on the exterior, a tower used for the summons to prayer), a great chandelier, a mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca), and a minbar (pulpit). Over time more minarets were added.

In 1934 Turkish Pres. Kemal Atatürk secularized the building, and in 1935 it was made into a museum. In 1985 the Hagia Sophia was designated a component of a UNESCO World Heritage site called the Historic Areas of Istanbul, which includes that city’s other major historic buildings and locations. Pres. Recep Tayyip Erdoğan made the controversial decision in 2020 to convert the building back into a mosque. Islamic prayers were held shortly after the announcement with curtains partially concealing the building’s Christian imagery.

The Hagia Sophia is a vast building. Its interior is largely empty so that it can be used by large crowds during prayers. There are not many decorations inside the building, but you can sense the immense history of the place seeping from its walls.

Planning your visit to the Hagia Sofia

1. Getting There

The Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya), one of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks, is located in the heart of the Sultanahmet district, which is part of Istanbul’s historic peninsula. It’s easily accessible by public transport, on foot from nearby attractions, or by taxi. Here’s a detailed guide on how to get there:


🚇 By Tram (T1 Tram Line) – Most Convenient Option

  1. Find the Nearest Tram Stop:

    • The T1 tram line (Bağcılar – Kabataş) is the most direct and convenient way to reach the Hagia Sophia.

    • If you’re staying in areas like Taksim, Karaköy, Eminönü, or Sirkeci, you can easily transfer to the T1 line.

  2. Board the Tram:

    • Purchase an Istanbulkart (public transport card) from kiosks at tram stops or metro stations.

    • Board the T1 tram in the Kabataş direction (if coming from Eminönü or Karaköy).

    • If you’re coming from Bağcılar, take the tram heading toward Kabataş.

  3. Get Off at Sultanahmet Stop:

    • The Hagia Sophia is located a 3-minute walk from the Sultanahmet tram stop.

    • Walk toward Sultanahmet Square; the Hagia Sophia’s massive dome and minarets will be visible as you approach.


🚌 By Bus

  1. Bus Routes:

    • Several IETT public buses (Istanbul’s public bus network) run close to Sultanahmet Square.

    • Take buses that stop at Eminönü or Sultanahmet.

  2. Get Off at Eminönü:

    • From Eminönü, you can either walk to the Hagia Sophia (about 15 minutes) or take the T1 tram toward Kabataş and get off at Sultanahmet.


🚶 By Foot (If You’re Already in the Sultanahmet Area)

  • If you’re visiting nearby attractions like the Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, or Topkapi Palace, you can easily walk to the Hagia Sophia.

  • From the Blue Mosque – It’s directly opposite the Hagia Sophia across Sultanahmet Square (a 2-minute walk).

  • From the Basilica Cistern – Walk for about 1–2 minutes through the square.


🚖 By Taxi

    • Taxis are widely available in Istanbul, but ensure the driver uses the meter.

    • If you’re staying near Taksim or Beşiktaş, a taxi ride to the Hagia Sophia should take about 15–20 minutes depending on traffic.

    • The taxi drop-off point is near the Sultanahmet Square entrance.

2. Other Information

1. Best Time to Visit

  • The Hagia Sophia is one of the most popular sites in Istanbul, so it can get quite crowded.

  • Best times to visit:

    • Early in the morning (around 9:00 AM) or later in the afternoon to avoid crowds.

    • Visiting during weekdays is preferable as weekends and public holidays tend to be more crowded.

    • Spring and autumn are ideal seasons for a comfortable visit, as summers can be very hot and busy.


🕰️ 2. Opening Hours

  • The Hagia Sophia is open every day of the week, but visiting hours depend on prayer times since it is an active mosque.

  • General opening hours:

    • 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM (Summer)

    • 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM (Winter)

  • Non-Muslim visitors are not allowed to enter during prayer times (five times daily).

    • The busiest prayer time is Friday noon prayer, so it’s best to avoid visiting then.


💰 3. Entrance Fee

  • Entrance is free since it is now a functioning mosque.

  • However, donations are welcome for the maintenance of the building.


👗 4. Dress Code

Since Hagia Sophia is an active place of worship, a modest dress code is required:

  • Women:

    • Should cover their heads with a scarf (scarves are usually provided at the entrance if you don’t have one).

    • Should cover their shoulders and legs.

  • Men:

    • Should avoid wearing shorts or sleeveless shirts.

  • Shoe removal is not required when visiting the general areas but may be requested in specific prayer sections.

Getting around Istanbul

Getting around Istanbul is relatively easy and affordable, thanks to its well-developed public transportation network and variety of transport options. Here’s a guide for tourists:


🚇 Public Transportation

1. Metro

  • Covers major areas of Istanbul, including connections to the airport and business districts.
  • Operates from 6:00 AM to midnight.
  • Purchase an Istanbulkart (rechargeable smart card) for convenience and discounts.

2. Tram

  • The T1 line (Kabataş to Bağcılar) is the most useful for tourists, covering key historic sites like Sultanahmet, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and Grand Bazaar.
  • Trams run frequently and are fast and reliable.

3. Bus

  • Buses cover areas not reached by metro or tram.
  • Can get crowded during peak hours.
  • Use the Istanbulkart for payment.

4. Ferries

  • Istanbul’s ferries provide scenic and practical transport between the European and Asian sides of the city.
  • Key routes: Eminönü to Kadıköy and Üsküdar.

🚖 Taxis and Ride-Sharing

1. Taxis

  • Yellow taxis are widely available, but ensure the driver uses the meter.
  • Use ride-hailing apps like BiTaksi or Uber to avoid overcharging.

2. Uber

  • Uber operates in Istanbul and offers both regular and premium options.

🚶 Walking

  • Many historic areas (like Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar) are pedestrian-friendly.
  • Be prepared for steep hills and uneven cobblestones.

🚈 Funicular and Cable Cars

  • The Tünel funicular connects Karaköy and Beyoğlu (operating since 1875).
  • The TF1 Cable Car takes you to the panoramic viewpoint of Pierre Loti Hill.
 

vegandining

Eating out for vegans in Istanbul

While Istanbul might not be the most vegan-friendly city in the world, there are still plenty of high-quality options to choose from.

Vegan Community Kitchen
Located in the heart of the colourful neighbourhood of Balat, this tiny little hole in the wall is run by a delightful woman who uses family recipes to make mouthwatering Turkish vegan dishes.
Address: Ayvansaray, Lavanta Sk. No:14

Mama Bowl Kitchen
Mama Bowl Kitchen in Istanbul’s Kadıköy district offers a fusion of Turkish and European flavours in healthy, homemade bowls, emphasising fresh, high-quality ingredients and catering to vegan and vegetarian preferences
– Address: Caferağa, Keresteci Aziz Sk.

Vegan Bakkal Moda
Vegan Bakkal Moda is a specialty store located in the heart of Istanbul’s Kadıköy district, offering a wide range of vegan products, including plant-based cheeses, meats, and dairy alternatives. Beyond food items, the shop also provides vegan cosmetics, supplements, and eco-friendly household products, making it a one-stop destination for those seeking cruelty-free and sustainable options. Visitors have praised the store for its extensive selection and the convenience of finding diverse vegan products in one place.
– Address:
Caferağa Mh, Bademaltı Sk. No:38/C

Wegain
Wegain is a cherished vegetarian and vegan Turkish restaurant nestled in Istanbul’s vibrant Cihangir neighbourhood. Owned and operated by a family trio—two sisters and a daughter/niece—the establishment offers a warm, homely atmosphere that reflects their dedication to plant-based cuisine. The menu boasts a variety of classic Turkish dishes, including stuffed peppers, vine leaves, fava, and lentil meatballs, all crafted with fresh, wholesome ingredients. Patrons frequently praise the restaurant’s offerings; one reviewer noted the “excellent food, very reasonable prices, and wonderful family running it,” highlighting their attentiveness to guests’ preferences. Beyond its delectable cuisine, Wegain is also renowned for its vegan desserts, such as vegan baklava, which have garnered acclaim from visitors. Situated on Boğazkesen Street, Wegain not only provides delightful meals but also offers a glimpse into Istanbul’s rich cultural tapestry, making it a must-visit for those seeking authentic Turkish vegan dining experiences.​
– Address:Firuzağa, Boğazkesen Cd. 74/A

Vegan Dükkan Lokanta
Vegan Dükkan Lokanta is a cozy, all-vegan eatery in Beyoğlu, Istanbul, offering a variety of plant-based dishes like spaghetti with vegan meatballs, tofu katsu curry, and smoked eggplant. Established 18 years ago, it promotes a cruelty-free and healthy lifestyle. The restaurant provides dine-in, takeaway, and pickup options, and also runs a vegan shop selling products to support a vegan lifestyle. It’s open daily from 10 AM to 9 PM.
– Address:
Sıraselviler Cad. Cihangir Mah. Soğancı Sok. No:8 34433, Beyoğlu

Vegan Istanbul
Vegan Istanbul is a family-owned vegan café located in the vibrant Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, specifically at Firuzağa, Türkgücü Cd. No:51. Renowned for its generous portions and affordable prices, the café offers a variety of freshly prepared vegan dishes that cater to both local and international palates. Patrons can enjoy a buffet-style selection, allowing them to choose from multiple options, typically priced around 50 TL. The establishment is also praised for its vegan baklava, a delightful twist on the traditional Turkish dessert. The warm and friendly atmosphere, coupled with the owners’ dedication to quality, makes Vegan Istanbul a must-visit spot for those seeking delicious plant-based cuisine in the city. ​
– Address:Firuzağa, Türkgücü Cd. No:51A, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

Vegan Masa
Vegan Masa is a renowned vegan restaurant in Istanbul, Turkey, offering authentic Turkish cuisine with a plant-based twist. Located in Beşiktaş, with another branch in Kadıköy, the restaurant serves a variety of traditional dishes such as lahmacun and pide made with vegan meat and cheese, as well as local desserts like kadayıf.
– Address:
Türkali, Mısırlı Bahçe Sk. No: 8/A, 34357 Beşiktaş/İstanbul, Türkiye

besttime

The best time to visit Istanbul

Istanbul has a moderate climate with four distinct seasons:

🌸 Spring (March to May):

  • Temperature: 8°C to 20°C (46°F to 68°F)
  • Mild and pleasant, with blooming flowers and longer daylight hours.
  • Light layers and a jacket are recommended, as evenings can be cool.

☀️ Summer (June to August):

  • Temperature: 20°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F)
  • Hot and humid, especially in July and August.
  • Lightweight, breathable clothing and sun protection are essential.

🍁 Autumn (September to November):

  • Temperature: 12°C to 25°C (54°F to 77°F)
  • Mild and comfortable with fewer crowds.
  • Light layers are ideal as temperatures can drop in the evening.

❄️ Winter (December to February):

  • Temperature: 3°C to 12°C (37°F to 54°F)
  • Cool and rainy, with occasional snow.
  • A warm coat, scarf, and umbrella are necessary.

stay

Where to stay in Istanbul

1.  Mid Range: Menar Hotel & Suites

Menar Hotel & Suites is a boutique hotel located in Istanbul’s historic Sultanahmet district, within walking distance of landmarks such as the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace. The hotel offers eight distinct room types, each decorated in warm Turkish-style decor and equipped with modern amenities like flat-screen TVs, air conditioning, and laptop-sized safes. Some rooms feature private hammams, terraces, gardens, or fully equipped kitchens. Guests can enjoy a rich breakfast at the Menar Lounge, which offers views of the Marmara Sea, and take advantage of services like free Wi-Fi, complimentary snacks, concierge assistance, car hire, ticket service, and airport pickup. The hotel has received positive reviews for its cleanliness, comfort, and exceptional service, with guests praising the friendly and helpful staff, as well as the hotel’s central location, which offers easy access to Istanbul’s attractions.

2. Luxury – Azzap Hotel Galata

Azzap Hotel Galata is a boutique hotel situated in the heart of Istanbul’s historic center, offering guests a unique blend of traditional charm and modern comfort. The hotel is housed in a lovingly restored 1900s building, featuring original architecture complemented by contemporary design elements. ​

The hotel’s prime location places guests within walking distance of iconic landmarks such as the Galata Tower and the Bosphorus, making it an ideal base for exploring the city’s rich cultural heritage. ​

Guests can enjoy a variety of dining options at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant and bar, which offers panoramic views of the Golden Horn and the Old City. The restaurant serves both traditional and international cuisine, providing a delightful culinary experience amidst stunning city vistas.

3. Budget – Crowned Plus Hotel

The Crowned Plus Hotel is a 2-star establishment situated in the heart of Istanbul, offering guests convenient access to the city’s rich historical and cultural sites. Located within a short walk from iconic landmarks such as the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace, the hotel provides an ideal base for travelers eager to explore the city’s heritage. Guests can start their day with a complimentary buffet breakfast served daily from 7:00 AM to 10:00 AM. The hotel also offers amenities like complimentary Wi-Fi throughout the property and a 24-hour front desk to assist with any needs. For those interested in exploring beyond the immediate vicinity, the hotel provides tour and excursion programs both within and outside of Istanbul. Additionally, a two-way transfer service is available from both Istanbul and Sabiha Gokcen Airports, ensuring a seamless travel experience for guests. The Crowned Plus Hotel combines comfort, convenience, and accessibility, making it a suitable choice for visitors looking to immerse themselves in the vibrant culture and history of Istanbul.

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