The Royal Palace of Madrid is the largest in Western Europe and one of the largest in the world. With over 135,000 square meters and 3,418 rooms, it has witnessed centuries of Spanish history.
Spain: El Escorial
El Escorial or the Royal Site of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. It is a historical residence of the King of Spain located in the town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. El Escorial is the largest Renaissance building in the world.
The project was conceived by King Philip II, who wanted a building to serve the multiple purposes of a burial place for his father, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V; a Hieronymite monastery; and a palace.
The first architect, Juan Bautista de Toledo, designed the ground plan on a gridiron scheme, recalling the grill on which San Lorenzo, the patron of the building, was martyred.
After Toledo’s death, Juan de Herrera took up work on the project. Although Herrera was influenced by the styles of Sebastiano Serlio and Giacomo Barozzi da Vignola, the final product was uniquely Spanish.
The complex, severe in its lines, has four principal stories with large towers at each corner. Arranged within a quadrangle, the buildings include:
- the church (1582)
- the monastery, royal palace, and college (1584)
- and the library (1592)
We arrived just after lunchtime and headed inside on our timed ticket.
Courtyard of the Evangelists
Our journey through the El Escorial Monastery started in colonnades surrounding the Courtyard of the Evangelists, comprising 62 frescoes and paintings representing religious scenes, original works by Tibaldi, Cambia so, Carvajal, Cincinnato and Barroso. Halfway down the cloisters is the main staircase, where you can go up the stairs part of the way so you can admire the ceiling which is decorated with frescoes by Luca Giordano.
At the end of the cloister was the entrance to what is known as the Old Church.
Chapter House
Right next to the Old Church is the Chapter House, which comprises two symmetrical rooms. These rooms have stunning curved ceilings, which are decorated with frescoes with moralistic messages. The walls of the Chapter House are filled with paintings from the 16th and 17th centuries.
This space was of great importance within the monastic structure. In them, the monks met daily, sitting on the benches along the walls, to carry out the readings of the Rules, resolve administrative matters and discuss issues related to monastic life.
The Royal Pantheon
From the Chapter House, we descended the stairs into the basement of the monastery where the pantheon, or crypts are housed. The first chamber we passed through is known as the Pantheon of Infantes or Pavilion of Infants, is a section of the Monastery of San Lorenzo de El Escorial in Spain that contains the tombs of Spanish royal family members: Princes, Infants (children of kings), and Queens who were not the mothers of kings. The Pantheon was created at the request of Queen Isabel II and completed in 1888. It has over 100 tombs spread across several rooms.
At the exit of the Pantheon of the Infantes is another pantheon, called the Royal Pantheon. This room is reached through a narrow passage down some stairs. The room is round with a domed ceiling and has niches filled with twenty-six marble sepulchres containing the remains of the kings and queens regnant (the only queen regnant since Philip II being Isabella II) of the Habsburg and Bourbon dynasties, from Charles I to the present, except for Philip V and his son Ferdinand VI. It is a very impressive space. It is also the one room in the monastery where taking a photograph is not allowed.
The Royal Palaces
As well as being a monastery this was also a residence of the Spanish Royal Family. El Escorial was more of a retreat than somewhere where the royal court gathered. There are two primary sets of rooms; the Palace of the Austrias associated with King Filipe II of Spain and the House of Burgundy and the Palace of the Bourbons. The rooms of these palaces are not particularly interesting in themselves but there are some amazing items within them including paintings and tapestries that adorn the walls, and a handful of decorative items, including a small, ornate organ. One item of a more practical nature is Philip II’s wheelchair. The king had a bad case of gout, you see, which caused severe swelling and arthritic pain in his feet and legs. The chair has both arm and leg rests to elevate his sore limbs and would require attendants to move it. For us, the most impressive features of these apartments were the doors and carved wooden surrounds used in connecting the rooms. The doors are made using wood inlays to depict elaborate pastoral scenes – quite stunning!
One of the more impressive rooms in the palaces was the so-called Gallery of Battles.
This impressive gallery commemorates the most important military campaigns of Felipe II including the battle of Saint Quentin. It is decorated with frescoes made by Italian painters of the time.
Courtyard of the Kings & the Basilica
We left the palaces behind and went to the Courtyard of the Kings which sits in front of the monastery’s impressive basilica church. When we had arrived earlier the basilica was closed for mass, but now it was open again for visits – so we headed inside.
This church was the raison d’être of the Monastery of El Escorial. Originally designed by Juan Bautista de Toledo its final layout was created by Juan de Herrera. It is a beautiful and vast space. The fact that there were only about half a dozen of us inside the church made it all the more imposing.
In one of the chapels at the foot of the church, is a stunning 16th-century sculpture of Jesus in Carrara marble, carved by Benvenuto Cellini, which is worth checking out.
The Library
Next up was the library, which turned out to be our favourite space in the whole monastery!
The Regia Laurentina is one of the most important historic libraries in the world. It contains almost 45,000 printed works from the 15th and 16th centuries, and some 5,000 manuscripts in Arabic, Latin, and Spanish. Its original furnishings are in an excellent state of preservation. The ceiling is decorated with frescoes by Italian Pellegrino Tibaldi related to the sciences and learning.
The Art Collection
Before we headed out of the monastery, we spoke to a couple of the security guards about whether we had missed anything, and they pointed us towards an exhibition of paintings we’d missed earlier on wanderings. So, we set off to find it.
The exhibition was of several impressive paintings or panels by the Dutch artist Rogier van der Weyden that had been commissioned for El Escorial. Over the years these panels had been damaged by fire and the passing of time and even suffered from poor restoration work. Luckily, they had recently been restored to their former glory and were now once again on display. We are not normally fans of religious art, but these were spectacular. It was also fascinating to see the information on how the recent restoration work had been undertaken
Planning your visit to El Escorial
Getting There
By Bus: From Madrid’s Moncloa station, take bus lines 661 or 664. The journey lasts about an hour and drops you near the monastery.
By Train: Board the Cercanías C8a line from Madrid’s Atocha station to El Escorial station. The trip takes roughly an hour. From the station, it’s a pleasant 15-20 minute walk to the monastery, or you can opt for a local bus or taxi.
Tickets and Admission
Purchase in Advance: To avoid long queues, especially during peak tourist seasons, it’s advisable to buy tickets online ahead of your visit.
Individual Admission
Basic Admission 14 €
Reduced Admission 7 €
Citizens between 5 and 16 years of age. Accreditation by means of an identification card or passport from 14 to 16 years of age.
Persons over 65 years of age.
Accredited students up to 25 years of age with updated national or international student’s card.
Free Admission 0 €
Children under 5 years of age.
18 May, International Museum Day. 12 October, National Holiday of Spain, without distinction of nationality (except for the Casa del Príncipe D. Carlos y del Infante D. Gabriel, where the single price must be paid)
Admission Includes: Access to the monastery, basilica, royal palace, pantheon, library, and the recently reopened painting and architecture galleries.
Opening Hours
October to March: 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM
April to September: 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM
Note: The monastery is closed on Mondays.
Guided Tours and Audio Guides
Guided Tours: Available in multiple languages, these tours provide in-depth insights into the history and significance of the complex.
Audio Guides: Rentable on-site, offering flexibility for self-paced exploration. However, during peak times, availability may be limited.
Visitor Tips
Photography: Photography is prohibited inside the monastery. Be sure to respect this rule to preserve the site’s integrity.
Accessibility: The complex features numerous stairs and expansive areas. Wear comfortable shoes and be prepared for extensive walking.
Facilities: There are no cafés or restaurants within the monastery. It’s recommended to carry a bottle of water and plan to dine in the nearby town, which offers a variety of eateries.
Best Time to Visit
Spring and autumn are ideal, offering pleasant weather and fewer crowds. Arriving early in the day enhances the experience, allowing for a more tranquil exploration.
Getting around Madrid
Airport Express Shuttle
Madrid has a transport service that connects the city centre with Barajas airport. The line runs 24 hours a day, every day of the year (with reduced timetables 24, 25 and 31 Dec and 1 Jan) with departures from Atocha station during daytime (6:00 – 23:30 h) and Cibeles station during daytime and nighttime (23:30 – 6:00 h). This service is of great benefit to people with night flights.
The bus, called “Exprés Aeropuerto”, takes about 30 minutes (to T1, five more minutes to T2 and five more to T4). It is 15-20 minutes by day and 35 minutes by night. The price of the ticket is 5 euros. You can pay on the bus itself in cash (maximum exchange rate: 20 euros) or with contactless technology (contactless) with a bank card or mobile phone.
Express Line 203 (Atocha-Aeropuerto) connects Madrid-Barajas Airport, central Madrid (Cibeles) and Atocha station. The head of the service line is at T4 and has stops at T2, T1, O’Donnell (at the confluence with Doctor Esquerdo), Plaza de Cibeles (the nerve centre of the night services of the EMT, the búhos (owls)) and Atocha Station (operative between 06:00 and 23:30 hours).
Metro
The Metro is the fastest, most efficient and reliable way of getting around Madrid. It is one of the largest metropolitan networks in Europe, connecting the entire city and a large part of the suburbs. Undoubtedly the most practical and economical option to move from the airport to the center and vice versa.
There are over 300 stations and twelve metro lines, three Metro ligero tram lines and a special Ramal line connecting Ópera and Principe Pío stations. Particularly useful for people visiting Madrid is Line 8 which goes from Nuevos Ministerios in the centre to Adolfo-Suárez Madrid Barajas Airport (20 mins to T4 and just 12 mins to T1, T2 and T3). It also goes to the capital’s trade fair centre Feria de Madrid.
The Metro runs from 6am to 1.30am, with trains departing every 2 minutes in the morning rush hour and every 15 minutes in the early hours (after midnight). At weekends, trains are less frequent during the day. Pitis station (Line 7) and stations between Puerta de Arganda and Arganda del Rey station have different opening hours to the rest of the network. When lines suffer closures due to engineering works, alternative bus services are usually availabe at no extra cost.
Taxis
Taxis in Madrid are white with a diagonal red band on their front door bearing the emblem of the city. They have a green light that is on when they are free. To hail a taxi all you need to do is raise your hand.
There are also several taxi ranks around the city, indicated by a blue sign with a white letter ‘T’. Taxis must be taken from the corresponding ranks at railway and bus stations and at the airport. Throughout the rest of the city, they can be easily stopped on the street.
Train
This Renfe service consists of 9 train lines running in the Region of Madrid. They all depart from or stop at Atocha train station. In some zones, you can use the same ticket as for the metro and buses.
Ride Hailing
Uber, Cabify and Bolt all operate in Madrid
Bus
Run by EMT (the Municipal Transport Company), Madrid’s efficient bus service is composed of 2000 vehicles and over 200 bus lines. Most of the city’s main thoroughfares have a bus and taxi lane to ensure the free flow of transport through the busier parts of the capital, although at times when there is heavy traffic, the Metro is usually a faster alternative. EMT recently introduced three zero emissions buses which are free to use: 001 Atocha Renfe-Moncloa, 002 Puerta de Toledo-Argüelles and C03 Puerta de Toledo-Argüelles.
Monday through Friday, buses run from 6am till 11.30pm (except the three zero emissions services whose timetables differ slightly). They generally pass every 4 to 15 minutes, although frequency depends on the line and the time of day. On weekends and public holidays, they run from 7am till 11pm and tend to be slightly less frequent.
Tourist Ticket
The Tourist Ticket (also known as the Tourist Travel Pass) can be used on all types of public transport in the Region of Madrid. Allowing you to take unlimited trips within your chosen timeframe, it is a practical and inexpensive way to get around Madrid.
Passes are valid for 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 7 days and for two zones (A and T).
Are you going to stay in the city centre and do you plan to get around there? Then Zone A is the right option for you since it covers these services:
- Use of the Metro in zone A (City of Madrid) – including the 3€ airport supplement,
- All blue EMT city buses (except the yellow Airport Express shuttle),
- Renfe Cercanías commuter trains covering zones 0 and A,
- Metro Ligero light rail train ML1.
The best time to visit Madrid
Madrid, Spain is situated within the Mediterranean climatological zone reffered as the Köppen climate classification of Csa. This climate class is characterized by a hot summer season, while geographic positioning of Madrid encourages unique weather patterns, resulting in a blend of climatological parameters.
The best time to visit Madrid
Considering the varied weather parameters, the best time to visit Madrid is generally during the Spring and Autumn months. During these periods, the temperatures are moderate, falling in the range of 18.2°C (64.8°F) to 22.2°C (72°F) in Spring and 13.5°C (56.3°F) to 26.4°C (79.5°F) in Autumn. Additionally, the city experiences relatively less rainfall and enjoys considerable daylight. During these periods, visitors can enjoy Madrid’s scenic beauty with a more pleasant, mild climate.
The worst time to visit Madrid
Visiting Madrid during summer months may not be suitable for all, especially those inept to withstand high temperatures. July, the hottest month, witnesses the maximum temperature exceeding 32°C (89.6°F). Furthermore, the UV index is also quite high during this time. Conversely, winter months, particularly December and January, can be cold, with very high chances of rainfall, lesser sunshine period, and shorter daylight hours.
Where to stay in Madrid
Madrid, Spain is situated within the Mediterranean climatological zone reffered as the Köppen climate classification of Csa. This climate class is characterized by a hot summer season, while geographic positioning of Madrid encourages unique weather patterns, resulting in a blend of climatological parameters.
Centro
Located in Central Madrid is the obviously named Centro neighbourhood of Madrid. This district is in one of the most favorable locations in the city because it is surrounded on all sides by Madrid’s other best neighborhoods.
Sol, Lavapiés, and Salamanca are all conveniently right next door. If you’re trying to figure out where to stay for easy access to the rest of the city, it’s going to be Centro. Inside this neighborhood, you’ll find tons of affordable hostels and high-quality tapas bars to choose from.
The only problem with Centro is that there are actually more hostels than traditional hotels or Airbnbs. If you’re looking for a more private experience in Madrid, Centro might not be the best option for you.
Sol
Sol is a favorite neighbourhood among newbies to Madrid and it’s easy to understand why so many people love this area. Sol is considered downtown Madrid, which reaches from Puerta del Sol to the Royal Palace.
It’s one of the more centrally located neighbourhoods in Madrid, with Centro on one side and Malasana on the other. El Retiro Park is also only a few blocks away and well within walking distance.
You’ll find tons of different top tourist attractions such as Plaza Santa Ana, Puerta del Sol, and the Royal Palace. Most of the city’s tourist attractions that aren’t located in this neighborhood are still very close by.
Retiro
Most people think that a capital city like Madrid would be all hustle and bustle without any relief. However, many of the city’s neighborhoods are actually relatively calm, such as Retiro.
Located next to Madrid’s largest greenspace, the Retiro district is a popular place to stay in Madrid for families. The park alone is an endless source of fun and cheap outdoor activities.
The main drawback of staying in Retiro is that it’s a little bit of a hike from the central neighborhoods of Madrid and all of the attractions there.
Lavapiés
Lavapiés might be a terrific option if you’re traveling to Europe on a budget. While most of Madrid’s neighborhood will cost you a pretty penny, the accommodations and restaurants in Lavapiés are surprisingly affordable. This makes it a popular neighborhood with younger travelers especially.
Many solo travelers flock to this Madrid neighborhood for its premium nightlife scene. There is a long list of different bars to try around this area. Including unique lounges like the La Noche Boca Arriba piano bar and laidback watering holes like La Huelga de Lavapiés pub.
The other convenient thing about Lavapiés is that it’s sandwiched right between Centro and El Retiro. Making it simple to get basically anywhere else in the city on foot or with a trip to the metro station.
1. Luxury – NH Collection Madrid Paseo del Prado
Located on Paseo del Prado Boulevard and offering wonderful views of the Neptune Fountains, NH Collection Madrid Paseo del Prado offers free WiFi, an on-site restaurant, and gym with city views.
Spacious, air-conditioned rooms feature a flat-screen TV and Nespresso coffee machine. Their Indian marble bathroom comes with a rain-effect shower, bathrobes and slippers.
Set in a 19th-century, Neo-Baroque palace, the hotel building still has some of its original features.
2. Mid Range – Hostal Main Street Madrid
Hostal Main Street Madrid is centrally located on Madrid’s Gran Via, just 1 minutes’ walk from Callao Metro Station.
It offers modern and bright, air-conditioned rooms with free WiFi, flat-screen TVs and parquet floors. All rooms are heated and soundproofed and come with a private bathroom with a hairdryer, shower and free toiletries.
3. Budget – Hostal Central Palace Madrid
Centrally located overlooking the Royal Palace and Sabatini Gardens in Madrid’s Plaza de Oriente, this elegant guest house offers 24-hour reception and free WiFi.
The spacious rooms at Hostal Central Palace Madrid feature wooden floors and classic décor. They all feature a private bathroom with shower and a hairdryer and toiletries. Some rooms offer views of the Royal Palace, Almudena Cathedral and the Sabatini Gardens.
There are many shops, bars and restaurants are within a short walk.
More to Explore
