The Chapel of Bones, is a hauntingly beautiful monument adorned with human skulls and bones, inviting visitors to reflect on the fleeting nature of life.
Portugal: Évora
Évora, a historic city in southern Portugal, is a treasure trove of cultural and architectural heritage. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it boasts well-preserved medieval streets, whitewashed houses, and a wealth of landmarks dating back to Roman, Moorish, and Portuguese rule. The city’s crown jewel is the Roman Temple of Diana, a stunning testament to its ancient past. Évora is also home to the eerie Chapel of Bones, adorned with human skulls and bones, and the grand Évora Cathedral, a mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles. As a university town, it has a lively atmosphere, blending its rich history with a vibrant cultural scene. Surrounded by the picturesque Alentejo region, known for its rolling plains, olive groves, and vineyards, Évora offers a captivating blend of history, gastronomy, and natural beauty.
Historical Background
Roman Influence
Évora’s history dates back to Roman times when it was known as Liberalitas Julia, a flourishing Roman town. One of the most striking remnants of this period is the Temple of Diana, a well-preserved Roman temple from the 1st century AD. This landmark, once part of a larger Roman forum, stands as a symbol of Évora’s ancient roots.
Visigothic and Moorish Rule
After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Visigoths occupied Évora, leaving behind traces of early Christian architecture. In the 8th century, the Moors took control, introducing Islamic architectural and cultural influences, which are still evident in the city’s urban layout, particularly in the labyrinthine streets of the old town.
Christian Reconquest and Medieval Growth
In 1165, Christian forces led by King Afonso Henriques reconquered Évora from the Moors. The city soon flourished under Portuguese rule, becoming an important cultural and religious center during the Middle Ages. The construction of the Évora Cathedral (Sé de Évora), begun in the late 12th century, reflects this era of prosperity. This imposing Gothic cathedral remains one of the most important landmarks in Portugal.
Renaissance and the Golden Age
During the 15th and 16th centuries, Évora reached its zenith as a center of learning and culture. King Manuel I favored the city, resulting in the construction of several Manueline-style buildings, including the Church of São Francisco and the Royal Palace of Évora. The University of Évora, founded in 1559, became a prestigious institution of higher learning, reinforcing the city’s reputation as an intellectual hub.
Decline and Modern Revival
Évora’s decline began in the 18th century when the Jesuits, who played a significant role in education, were expelled, leading to the closure of the university. The city’s importance waned, but its historical charm remained intact. In the 20th century, efforts to preserve its heritage gained momentum, culminating in its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986.
Culture and Traditions of Évora
Évora’s culture is deeply rooted in the traditions of the Alentejo region, known for its slow-paced lifestyle, strong agricultural heritage, and unique artistic expressions.
Architecture and Urban Landscape
Évora’s historic center is a blend of Roman, Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture. Whitewashed houses with azulejo-tiled facades and wrought-iron balconies define the city’s charming streets. The Aqueduct of Silver Water (Aqueduto da Água de Prata), built in the 16th century, is another striking feature of the city’s landscape.
Gastronomy
Alentejan cuisine is famous for its hearty flavors, and Évora is no exception. Some of the most notable local dishes include:
- Açorda Alentejana – A rustic soup made with bread, garlic, cilantro, olive oil, and poached egg.
- Migas – A traditional dish made from breadcrumbs, garlic, and pork.
- Ensopado de Borrego – A rich lamb stew.
- Queijo de Évora – A distinctive local cheese made from sheep’s milk.
Évora is also renowned for its Alentejo wines, some of the finest in Portugal, thanks to the region’s ideal climate for viticulture.
Music and Performing Arts
The city plays a key role in preserving traditional Cante Alentejano, a unique polyphonic singing style from the Alentejo region, recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. This form of music, performed in groups, reflects the rural traditions and hardships of the Alentejo people.
Festivals and Events
Évora hosts various festivals that celebrate its cultural heritage, including:
- Semana Académica de Évora – A student festival filled with music and traditions linked to the University of Évora.
- Feira de São João – One of the oldest fairs in Portugal, featuring handicrafts, gastronomy, and entertainment.
- Évora Classical Music Festival – A celebration of classical music in historic settings.
Places to visit in Évora
Explore the Roman Temple of Évora (Temple of Diana)
Once parked up we went for a walk to get ourselves oriented around the town, which is not too large a place. Our route took us towards the Temple of Évora, sometimes incorrectly called the Temple of Diana. The temple is believed to have been constructed around the first century CE, in honour of Augustus in the main public square (forum) of Évora, then called Liberalitas Iulia. In the 5th century, the temple was destroyed by the invading Germanic peoples. In about 712 Évora was conquered by the Moors, who named it Jabura, and it remained under Moorish rule until CE 1166. In the 15th–16th century the kings of Portugal began residing regularly in Évora.
During the 14th century, the temple’s space served as a strong house for the town’s castle and was then modified to serve as a slaughterhouse.
There was a major restoration in the second half of the 19th century and in the 20th century, new excavations discovered the remains of a portico, which would have been surrounded by water.
Visit Évora Cathedral
The Évora Cathedral, its real name Basílica Sé de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Basilica Cathedral of Our Lady of Assumption), stands as one of Portugal’s most magnificent examples of medieval architecture. Founded in the 12th century, the cathedral began as a Romanesque structure and later evolved to incorporate Gothic elements, reflecting the dynamic changes in architectural styles over the centuries. Its robust stone walls, pointed arches, and intricately carved details not only highlight the technical prowess of its builders but also serve as a testament to the city’s historical importance as a centre of religion and culture in the Iberian Peninsula.
Inside, the cathedral offers a serene yet awe-inspiring atmosphere where visitors can appreciate its rich artistic heritage. The interior is adorned with a series of chapels and a grand cloister that features elaborate designs and sculptures, each narrating a part of Évora’s storied past. Beyond its architectural splendour, the cathedral provides panoramic views over the ancient city
Agua da Prata Aqueduct
The Agua da Prata Aqueduct is a striking testament to historical engineering and architectural finesse. Originally constructed to transport water to local communities, its series of gracefully arched stone spans not only served a vital practical purpose but also highlighted the ingenuity of its builders. Over time, this impressive structure evolved from a mere utility into a cherished cultural landmark, emblematic of the region’s rich heritage.
Chapel of Bones (Capela dos Ossos)
Igreja e Mosteiro de São Francisco is most famous for its side chapel called the Chapel of Bones (Capela dos Ossos). This chapel has a vaulted ceiling supported by eight columns, which is about the only part of the chapel that is not covered in human skulls and bones. It is estimated that over 5,000 skulls decorate the chapel, many of which were dug up from the many monastic cemeteries in the area. Cemeteries were taking up too much space and the idea of moving the bones to a single consecrated space came before one 16th-century monk spotted an opportunity. Rather than storing the bones away from view, it was seized upon as an opportunity to transmit the message of the inevitability of death and the transience of out of existence.
Chill out in the Public Gardens (Jardim Público de Évora)
Renowned for its therapeutic waters and stunning Italian-era architecture, the site offers a serene escape with ornate mosaics, grand archways, and lush gardens overlooking the crystal-clear Aegean Sea. Whether you’re exploring the historic spa complex, sunbathing on the rocky coves, or enjoying a refreshing dip in the turquoise waters, Kallithea Springs provides a perfect mix of culture and leisure. With its picturesque setting and tranquil atmosphere, it’s an ideal spot for photographers, history enthusiasts, and anyone looking to unwind in one of Rhodes’ most enchanting locations.
Take in a show at the splendid Teatro Garcia de Resende
Construction on the Teatro Garcia de Resende started in 1881, but it was not completed for a further ten years, largely owing to the death of the theatre’s benefactor during this period. The theatre has had somewhat of a tumultuous history. In 1941, a gale blew the roof off, and as it remained that way throughout the winter, the paintings were damaged. Furthermore, during the restoration work, the interior lead lining of the roof, which provided thermal and acoustic insulation, was stolen. In 1943, the Council leased it as a theatre and cinema, authorising changes to the stalls, which were changed to their original appearance. In 1969, a disastrous intervention irreparably altered its main façade. The theatre was then used as a rubbish dump until 1975 when it was taken over by the Évora Cultural Centre and restored to somewhere near its original glory – at least on the inside!
Getting to and around Évora
Getting to Rhodes, Greece
Getting to Évora, Portugal is quite straightforward, with several convenient options depending on your travel style and schedule. Below is an overview of common routes and transportation methods:
1. Arriving by Air
Most international travelers fly into Lisbon Portela Airport, which is the main gateway into Portugal. Once in Lisbon, you can connect to Évora via ground transportation.
2. From Lisbon to Évora
By Car:
Renting a car gives you the flexibility to explore at your own pace. Évora is approximately 130 km east of Lisbon, and the drive typically takes about 1.5 hours via the A6 motorway. This route is scenic and straightforward.By Train:
There are train services connecting Lisbon to Évora, though schedules can be limited. Trains usually depart from Lisbon’s Oriente station, and the journey lasts around 1.5 hours. It’s a comfortable option if you prefer a relaxed ride without the stress of driving.By Bus:
Intercity buses, such as those operated by Rede Expressos, run between Lisbon and Évora. The bus journey can take about 1.5 to 2 hours, and buses are a cost-effective way to travel. Tickets are typically available online or at major bus stations in Lisbon.
3. Local Transportation in Évora
Once you arrive in Évora, the historic city center is best explored on foot. Taxis and local buses are also available if you plan to travel further afield within the region.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Évora, Portugal, is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). During these seasons, the weather is pleasant, and the city is less crowded compared to peak summer months.
Best Seasons to Visit Évora:
Spring (March – May)
- Temperatures: 15-25°C (59-77°F)
- The countryside is lush and green with blooming flowers.
- Perfect for exploring historical sites like the Roman Temple and Chapel of Bones.
- Ideal for wine tasting in the Alentejo wine region.
Autumn (September – November)
- Temperatures: 15-28°C (59-82°F)
- The summer crowds have left, but the weather is still warm.
- Beautiful golden hues in the Alentejo vineyards.
- A great time for gastronomy, as local produce and wines are at their best.
When to Avoid:
Summer (June – August)
- Extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 35-40°C (95-104°F).
- Many locals take vacations, so some smaller businesses may be closed.
- Can be crowded with tourists.
Winter (December – February)
- Cooler temperatures: 5-15°C (41-59°F).
- Quieter but can be rainy and damp.
- Still great for museums and historical exploration.
Where to stay
1. Mid Range: Stay Hotel Évora Centro
Stay Hotel Évora Centro is a modern, centrally located hotel in the heart of Évora, Portugal. Set in a charming whitewashed building with distinctive red roof tiles, the hotel offers a comfortable and contemporary stay ideal for exploring this UNESCO World Heritage city.
Key Highlights
Location:
Situated at Travessa da Milheira 19, the hotel is perfectly placed in Évora’s historic center. Major attractions like the Roman Temple to Diana and Convento de Santa Clara Monastery are just a short walk away, making it an excellent base for sightseeing.Accommodations:
With 45 spacious and well-appointed rooms, guests can choose from options such as single, double, twin, and triple rooms. Each room is bright and air-conditioned, featuring colorful decor, LCD cable TV, a work desk, and private bathrooms stocked with complimentary toiletries and a hairdryer.
2. Luxury – M’AR De AR Aqueduto
M’AR De AR Aqueduto is a 5‑star boutique hotel and spa set in the heart of Évora’s historic center. Housed in a renovated 16th‑century palace (the former Palácio dos Sepúlveda), the property beautifully marries its heritage—with features like a preserved chapel, vaulted ceilings, and Manueline windows—with a modern, contemporary design.
Key Features
- Accommodation: The hotel offers 64 elegantly designed rooms in various categories (classic rooms with city or garden views, palace suites, etc.), all equipped with modern amenities such as LCD TVs, work areas, Nespresso machines, and complimentary Wi‑Fi.
- Spa & Wellness: A 220m² spa is available for relaxation and rejuvenation, featuring facilities like an indoor pool, sauna, and a range of treatments.
3. Budget – Moov Hotel Évora
Moov Hotel Évora is a modern, eco-friendly hotel uniquely set within a former bullring in the historic heart of Évora, Portugal. Its minimalist design and thoughtful use of space are reflected throughout the property, which is built around a charming inner courtyard. Here are some key highlights:
Prime Location
- Historic Setting: Located at Rua do Raimundo 99, the hotel is within the UNESCO World Heritage-listed city center. This means you’re just a short stroll away from landmarks like Giraldo Square, Évora Cathedral, and the Temple of Diana.
- Accessibility: It’s conveniently situated near public transport—with Évora Train Station only a 4-minute drive away—making day trips to Lisbon and other attractions quite easy.
More to Explore
