Portugal: Coimbra – The University of Coimbra
Our road trip through central Portugal brought us to the historic city of Coimbra, which is located between Lisbon and Porto. It has a historic medieval centre, but the main reason for our visit to the city was to see its famous university.
First established in Lisbon in 1290, it went through several relocations until moving permanently to Coimbra in 1537. The university is among the oldest universities in continuous operation in the world, the oldest in Portugal, and played an influential role in the development of higher education in the Portuguese-speaking world. In 2013, UNESCO declared the university a World Heritage Site, noting its architecture, unique culture and traditions, and historical role.
We were staying in a hotel down by the river, so it was quite a trudge up the hill to reach the university.
I had booked on a tour of the Baroque Library. You can only visit the library on a tour, and the tickets for this sell out quickly, so you need to book ahead. We’d only managed to get one ticket – so Karen had to wait outside while I went in to see the library.
We were staying in a hotel down by the river, so it was quite a trudge up the hill to reach the university.
I had booked on a tour of the Baroque Library. You can only visit the library on a tour, and the tickets for this sell out quickly, so you need to book ahead. We’d only managed to get one ticket – so Karen had to wait outside while I went in to see the library.
The Baroque Library is located in the oldest part of the University’s Campus, in what is called the Palace of Schools. The library is the best example of Portuguese Baroque and is considered to be one of the richest European libraries. It is also known as the Joanina Library in honour and memory of King John V, who authorised its construction and whose portrait, painted by Domenico Duprà, distinctly dominates the space inside the Noble Floor.
Construction on the Baroque Library was completed in 1728. It functioned as the University Library from 1777 until the first half of the 20th century.
It holds 60 thousand books, dating from the 16th century to the 18th century, on a wide variety of topics.
The library is set over three floors, the tour began on the lowest level, which is more of a basement than a floor. The academic prison is located here. Like other prestigious European universities, the University of Coimbra long had the privilege of governing itself and its own legislation, which remained in place until it was revoked in 1834. What remains of the prison are two narrow sells of medieval origin and a winding staircase. The tour group was large, so it was a tight fit in the cells – not one for the claustrophobes!
From the prison, we moved to the second floor, which was more open, with low, vaulted ceilings. This used to be used by the guards of the prison, but today it operates as a repository for some of the library’s book collection. It is also the place where the tour groups wait while the group on the Noble floor finish up.
Soon enough it was time for our group to move up the staircase to the Noble Floor.
We have visited several old libraries over the years and the Baroque Library is up there with the best.
The Noble Floor consists of three halls filled with shelves and verandas ornamented with rich carvings and gold paintings against a black background in the first hall, a red background in the second hall and a green background in the third hall. The three halls are connected by archways decorated with crests. The lining is made of wood, painted to resemble marble. The walls are lined with two storeys of gilded multi-coloured oak shelves. Six embossed tables made from precious tropical woods can be found throughout the halls. It was stunning. Sadly, no photographs were allowed but it did give me time to focus on the library itself. The picture below is one I borrowed from the Internet.
The tour group I was with were mostly travelling together with a guide, so I was able to leave them and get some relative peace on my own in corners of the library.
Karen’s ticket included visiting the Cabinet of Curiosities (mine didn’t) so I waited while she went to take a look. Cabinets of curiosities or chambers of wonders proliferated in the 16th and 17th centuries in the residences of the European bourgeoisie. They were complete rooms or small spaces dedicated to the exhibition of exotic objects that came from all corners of the world and that the nobles collected to flaunt their riches. The University of Coimbra has gathered things of an unusual and bizarre nature from its collections and put them on display in a similar fashion. It was a small exhibit so it didn’t take Karen too long to go around.
In the same building as the Cabinet of Curiosities (which is also where you find the ticket office and store) is another exhibition area called the Academic Museum, which covers four small rooms. It was created by the academic association of the University and attempts to capture student life at the University. It has some rare artefacts on display, including guitars used in Fado, a Portuguese folk style that originated in Coimbra, and displays depicting student life through the 20th century.
Just across the street from the Cabinet of Curiosities and the Academic Museum is the Chemistry Laboratory, an important Portuguese neoclassical building that was built in the 18th century to teach Experimental Chemistry during the reform of the University started by the Marquess of Pombal. It is home to a collection some of the Science Museum’s scientific collections. During our visit, there was a temporary display showing the role that the Jesuits played in the development of the science programmes at the University. The science curriculum in Jesuit colleges was based primarily on the works of Aristotle, Euclid, and the medieval mathematician Joannes de Sacro Bosco, with Jesuit professors often composing their own textbooks on these authors. The main exhibits of the Chemistry Laboratory are set in two large rooms. The first of these has display cabinets and workbenches and looks much like a laboratory would have in the 19th century. On display were a lot of instruments and equipment that would have been used in the laboratories to conduct experiments. The second room is set aside for demonstrating various elements of the sciences using interactive displays. Sadly, a number of these we not working when we were there.
From the Chemistry Laboratory, we headed back to the Palace of Schools, where there were a couple more places we could visit with our tickets.
It was getting towards the end of the academic year and the main quadrangle of the Palace of Schools was full of students in their traditional long capes and caps and their family members, as well as large groups of tourists. The whole place was buzzing.
We worked our way by and entered the Royal Palace.
The building currently known as the Royal Palace was built at the end of the 10th century, serving as a fortress for the governor of the city during Islamic rule. In 1131, it became the first Portuguese royal household, the residence of Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal. In 1537, during the reign of King John III, the University was permanently relocated from Lisbon to Coimbra, having been established in this building in 1544.
This building is divided into 3 spaces.
The first room we entered was the Armoury. This room is thus named because it was the first line of defence in the protection of the Princes, given their importance in the line of succession to the throne. Later, this space was also used to store the weapons of the old Academic Royal Guard. Today, they are used by the Archers (guards) during solemn academic ceremonies, such as the awarding of Honoris Causa doctoral degrees, the swearing-in of the Rector and the solemn opening of the academic year. The Academic Royal Guard was the guard corps that ensured the security of the rector, the rector’s house, the university buildings and the urban boundaries that fell within the jurisdiction of the University. The guards were originally known as Verdeais. After 1836, they became known as archers, even though they never used crossbows. They donned a kind of military uniform for daily use. Their current uniform dates back to the second half of the 20th century.
Just down the way from the Armoury, is a much larger and more spectacular room, The Great Hall of Acts. This hall is the most important space at the University of Coimbra. It was the old Throne Room and was the residence of the kings of the first Portuguese dynasty between 1143 and 1383. Important events in the history of Portugal took place here, such as the proclamation of King John I in 1385. After the University opened in the Palace of Schools, this space became the main hall of the University of Coimbra, where the most important ceremonies of academic life took place.
The current design of this hall is the result of renovations carried out in the mid-17th century. The walls were lined with “carpet-like” tiles manufactured in Lisbon. The wooden ceiling was renovated with 172 panels that look like grotesque motifs (representing sea monsters, Indians, mermaids, and plants).
The final room open to the public is the Private Examination Room. During its existence as the royal palace, this space served as the king’s quarters but was later transformed into a venue where the graduates take their examinations. The examination consisted of an oral test taken at dusk. It was a private event, that is, only the students were to be assessed and the professors could be in the room.
This examination continued up until the second half of the 18th century, having been abolished during the reforms carried out by the Marquis of Pombal during the reign of King Joseph I.
The ceiling in this room dates back to 1701. One can see the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Portugal and representations of the former great Faculties at the University of Coimbra: Theology (Cross and Sun), Law (Scale and Sword), Medicine (Swan and the Staff of Hermes) and Canon Law (Papal Mitre).
The walls of the room contain portraits of the 38 rectors from the 16th to the 18th centuries, together with the length of their terms: the caption records the number of days, months, and years that the rector headed the University. Today, the Rector’s term of office is limited to a maximum of 8 years (two 4-year terms).
Before leaving the Palace, we had the opportunity to go out onto the balcony, which has spectacular views across the quadrangle towards the city.
The last place to visit before we headed out from the university was the St Michael’s Chapel. We left the palace and wandered through a construction site, where part of the college building, eventually arrived at the chapel. The building of St. Michael’s Chapel was probably built in the 12th century and served as the private oratory for the former Royal Palace. It is named after Archangel Michael, the protector of King Afonso Henriques (the first king of Portugal).
On the outside, the large portal dominates the façade. This naturalistic structure is flanked by two pillars covered in strong maritime symbolism. At the centre is the Portuguese Royal Crest, together with the Cross of Christ and the Armillary Sphere The current structure is the result of restoration to the Royal Palace, carried out during the 16th century.
Inside the chapel was spectacularly decorated. The walls were largely covered by blue, white and yellow ceramic tiles. The ceiling of the chapel was stunning. It bears the insignia of the University of Coimbra, represented by a Christian figure and the emblems of the three major faculties, according to the old division of the university: Theology, Canon Law, Civil Law and Medicine.
We were done with our visit to the University of Coimbra. It was now time to head for Porto. As we left the gate of the Palace of Schools we heard the sound of music. We waited to see if we could work out where it was coming from. A group of about 12 young musicians turned up wearing capes and caps similar to what we had seen the students wearing. This was a ‘Tuna’, a group of university students in traditional university dress who play traditional instruments and sing serenades.
This tradition originated in Spain and Portugal in the 13th century as a means for students to earn money or food. Nowadays students don’t belong to a Tuna for money or food but seek to keep a tradition alive and for fun. The suit is not a university uniform, but a sign of a group identity, and has a strict code of use.
The name Tuna may come from the French “Roi de Thunes”, which means king of Tunis, a title used by leaders of vagabonds.
We walked through the streets, this time passing through the narrow-cobbled roads of the old city, which were delightful. It would have been nice to be able to spend more time exploring but we had a deadline to get our rental car back. There was a nice surprise when we got to the road back to the hotel, the same Tuna group we had seen earlier were serenading outside a restaurant, so we stopped a while to listen. We were not the only spectators, as we stood next to a table where a couple of nuns were enjoying an ice cream!
Planning your visit
Getting to Coimbra
Car
From Lisbon: A1 Motorway Exit 12 (Coimbra South)
From Porto: A1 Motorway Exit 13 (Coimbra North)
Where to park:
Estação Coimbra B car park (Free)
Parque Verde do Mondego car park (Paid)
Choupalinho car park (Free)
Nearest Public Transport in Coimbra:
-Car park at Coimbra B
Smtuc Station (Coimbra Municipal Urban Transport Services) – Line 28
Departure: Stop Nº1000 Arrival: Stop Nº1629
-Parque Verde do Mondego car park / Choupalinho car park
Smtuc (Coimbra Municipal Urban Transport Services) – Botânico Line
Departure: Stop Nº1644 Arrival: Stop Nº1520
Train
For information on how to get to Coimbra, see:
CP – Trains of Portugal
https://www.cp.pt/passageiros/pt
Nearest Public Transport in Coimbra:
Coimbra A Station
Smtuc (Coimbra Municipal Urban Transport Services) – Line 103
Departure: Stop Nº1477 Arrival: Stop Nº1629
Coimbra B Station
Smtuc (Coimbra Municipal Urban Transport Services) – Line 28
Departure: Stop Nº1000 Arrival: Stop Nº1629
Bus
For information on how to get to Coimbra, see:
Express Network
https://www.rede-expressos.pt/
Nearest Public Transport in Coimbra: Smtuc (Coimbra Municipal Urban Transport Services) – Line 28
Departure: Stop Nº1489 rbl Arrival: Stop Nº1629
The best time to visit Coimbra
Known for its enchanting university town and historic structures, Coimbra nestles within the climatic zone denoted by the Köppen climate classification as ‘Csb’, indicating a Mediterranean climate with warm summers. Influenced by its geographical position along Portugal’s western coast, Coimbra experiences weather characterized by hot, dry summers and wet, temperate winters.
The best time to visit Coimbra
The summer months of June to September are often perceived as the most opportune time to visit Coimbra. During this period, the city basks in temperature highs up to 28.7°C (83.7°F), creating ideal conditions for outdoor exploration. The rainfall is sparse, with averages as low as 13mm (0.51″) to 40mm (1.57″) from June to September, ensuring minimal interruption to sightseeing plans. At this time, daylight hours are at their peak, offering up to 15 hours of daylight, thus providing longer exploration times for visitors.
The worst time to visit Coimbra
The late fall to winter period, from November to February, might be less inviting for tourists considering a visit to Coimbra. At this time, the city receives hefty rainfall, ranging from 106mm (4.17″) in November to a significant 127mm (5″) in December. Lower temperatures, ranging between 5°C (41°F) and 16.2°C (61.2°F) occur during this period, which may not be favorable for outdoor activities.
Where to stay in Coimbra
1. Luxury – Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas
Quinta das Lágrimas offers 3 room types: Palace Rooms once accommodated the Duke of Wellington and Garden Rooms overlook the botanical garden. Spa Rooms offer breathtaking views of the Quinta’s woods or the city of Coimbra.
The 2 restaurants at Hotel Quinta das Lágrimas serve seasonal dishes prepared with fresh local ingredients grown on the estate. Dine al fresco whilst enjoying selected local wines from the cellar.
Bamboo Garden Spa provides a range of luxury treatments and beauty therapies, and there is a library filled with thousands of ancient books. Quinta das Lágrimas has a golf driving range and a 9-hole course.
2. Mid-Range – Hotel Oslo
Oslo is a family-run hotel situated 50 meters from the station with views over the city and its historical University. It offers recently renovated rooms with free Wi-Fi. The air-conditioned rooms feature comfortable beds and private bathrooms with hairdryers. All rooms have a TV and a safety deposit box. Santa Cruz Monastery is 5 minutes away on foot and the Mondego River is 2 minutes walking from the property. Free private parking is possible on-site.
3. Quaint – Pharmacia Guest House
Offering river views, Pharmacia Guest House is an accommodation located in Coimbra, less than 1 km from Santa Clara a Velha Monastery and a 10-minute walk from Portugal dos Pequenitos. Featuring a lift, this property also provides guests with a sun terrace. The property is 100 metres from the city centre and 400 metres from Coimbra-A Train Station.
All units feature air conditioning and a satellite flat-screen TV. Featuring a private bathroom with a shower and a hair dryer, units at the guest house also provide guests with free WiFi, while selected rooms have a balcony.