Norway: Bergen – Troldhaugen

March 15, 2025
Vestland
0 Comments

The weather forecast was not great, but we were determined not to let that stop us from getting out and about in Bergen. So, dressed in our waterproofs we headed out.

Yesterday, we’d been lucky enough to stumble on a free concert of the music of Edvard Grieg – today we were off to see his former home and living museum at Troldhaugen. The house is a bit outside of the centre of Bergen, but we found public transport took us most of the way there. So, Karen worked out that it was a 5-minute walk to the tram stop that would take us out towards Troldhaugen. It was Sunday morning, so things were even quieter than normal, and we took our seats and stared out the window as we passed by the soggy suburbs of Bergen.

When we arrived at our stop, we got lost and tried to figure out where to go. The signs were not clear at all—luckily, we were not the only confused visitors. Our friend Google Maps eventually got us going in the right direction, and the signs started to appear at regular intervals.

When we reached the visitor centre at Troldhaugen, we were dripping wet and glad to be inside somewhere warm and dry.

One of the activities at the museum is a twice-daily piano concert featuring, not surprisingly the works of Grieg. I had booked us in for the 11:30 performance, which we’d arrived in good time for. This meant we had time to look around some of the exhibits, including an interesting timeline of Grieg’s life. There was also a small room showing a video of Grieg’s music accompanied by images of the most beautiful places around Norway (many of which we’d already visited). It was nice to listen to the music, which was only ruined briefly by a small group of young ladies whom Karen had to ask to be quiet.

At the appointed time we moved to the auditorium for the recital. The room was stunning. It could probably seat around 100 people, although today it was far from full. At the front was a small stage on which sat a grand piano, behind which was a floor-to-ceiling window that looked out through the gardens down to Nordås Lake.

The performance was about 30 minutes long and was given by a young, tall lady in a flowing dress. She played several lesser-known pieces by Grieg that covered his complete career as a composer – including several folk songs. She even sang during one of these. Between each song, she gave a brief overview of what she was about to play and its context in Grieg’s development as a composer. Her playing of the piano was exquisite, helped by the fabulous acoustics of the auditorium. The whole thing was mesmerising.

The next step on our visit was to tour the Grieg’s house at Troldhaugen.

The house is where Edvard Grieg and his wife Nina, who was his cousin, lived whenever they were in Bergen, not travelling and performing, which was mostly in the summer months. Nina was a talented soprano and they often travelled together. The building work was completed on Troldhaugen In 1895. After the death of her husband in 1907, Nina Grieg moved to Denmark (she was Danish by birth), where she spent the remainder of her life. She died in 1935 aged 90.

The tour covers only three rooms. The first room is the Memorial Room, which doesn’t contain much apart from numerous photos of Grieg, Nina, and important people in their lives. I hadn’t seen any pictures of Edvard Grieg before, but his wild, long unkempt hair and moustache reminded me a lot of Albert Einstein. One of the pictures on the wall was of Ole Bull, a composer and violin virtuoso who was a major influence on Greig and got him into Norwegian folk music.

The second room of the house was the dining room which contained many original pieces of furniture and decorations.

The last room we visited was the salon, where Grieg’s own Steinway grand piano stands, which he was given as a silver wedding anniversary present in 1892. Today the instrument is used for private concerts, special occasions, and intimate concerts in connection with the Bergen International Festival.

We left the house and took a short walk down the hill to the small wooden hut where Grieg spent much time composing music or at least trying to. He was apparently easily distracted. When he left the hut at the end of his working day, or when he was gone from Troldhaugen, he always left a brief hand-written note on his writing desk:

“If anyone should break in here, please leave the musical scores, since they have no value to anyone except Edvard Grieg.”

The grounds are lovely to walk around. There are snaking paths that offer occasional glimpses of Nordås Lake. One of these paths took us down the edge of the lake, where the gravesite of Edvard and Nina is located. There was originally a small grotto in the wall of rock. One evening, when Grieg was returning from hunting with his friend, Frants Beyer, he noticed that the rock here was picturesquely illuminated by the last rays of the sun as it set behind Bønes Hill. He decided that this was where his remains would be laid to rest.
In 1935, Nina Grieg died. Her ashes were also buried in the rock. Hanging in the villa, in the Memorial Room, is a photograph of the two urns, taken shortly before the grave was closed.
On special occasions, such as the birthdays of Edvard and Nina and once a year on the opening of the Bergen Festival, flowers are placed beneath the plaque at the grave.

We’d been lucky with the time spent visiting the house and gardens as the rain had held off. Before leaving we decided to take advantage of the brief dry spell to it down and eat our packed lunch.

Planning your visit to Troldhaugen

Getting There

Location: Troldhaugen is about 8 km (5 miles) south of Bergen.
Transport Options:
- By Car: Approximately 15–20 minutes from Bergen city center. Free parking is available.
- By Public Transport: Take the Bergen Light Rail to Hop Station, followed by a short walk (around 20 minutes).
- Tours: Many guided tours from Bergen include transportation and a visit to Troldhaugen.

What to See

Grieg’s Villa: The beautifully preserved 19th-century home where Grieg lived with his wife, Nina.
Composer’s Hut: A cozy, lakeside retreat where Grieg composed many of his famous works.
Troldsalen: A concert hall with breathtaking views of the surroundings, where you can enjoy live piano performances.
Grieg’s Grave: A serene spot near the water, where Edvard and Nina Grieg are laid to rest.
Museum: Displays personal artifacts, original scores, and exhibitions about Grieg’s life and career.

Activities

Concerts: Check the schedule for lunchtime or evening concerts featuring Grieg’s music.
Guided Tours: Available to learn about Grieg’s life and his creative process.
Café: Enjoy light refreshments at the onsite café with picturesque views.

gettingaround

Getting around Bergen

1. Public Transport:

Buses and Light Rail (Bybanen):

Buses: Operated by Skyss, buses are a reliable way to travel around the city and surrounding areas. The central hub is Bergen Busstasjon (Bus Station).
Bybanen (Light Rail): A convenient and eco-friendly option, the light rail connects Bergen city center to the southern suburbs, including Bergen Airport (Flesland).
- Runs frequently: Every 5–10 minutes during peak hours.
- Affordable and easy to navigate.

Tickets:

Purchase tickets via the Skyss Ticket App or at ticket machines in major stops.
A single ticket covers buses and Bybanen and is valid for 90 minutes.

2. Walking:

Bergen’s city center is compact and highly walkable. Most attractions, like Bryggen Wharf, the Fish Market, and Mount Fløyen’s funicular, are within a short distance.

3. Taxis and Ride-sharing:

Taxis: Readily available but expensive. Look for Bergen Taxi or Norgestaxi.
Ride-sharing Apps: Services like Uber are limited, so taxis are the main option for direct rides.

4. Biking:

Bergen has introduced bike-friendly infrastructure in recent years.
Bike Rentals:
- Services like Bergen Bysykkel (city bikes) allow you to pick up and drop off bikes at stations around the city.
- Some guided bike tours are also available if you want to explore scenic routes.

5. Car Rentals and Driving:

Car Rentals: Ideal for exploring areas outside the city, like Hardangerfjord or Sognefjord. Rental services are available at Bergen Airport and the city center.
Parking: Limited in the city center, and some streets are pedestrian-only.
- Use parking garages like Bygarasjen near the bus station.

6. Ferries and Boats:

Fjord Cruises: Many fjord tours depart from Bergen, allowing you to explore the region’s natural beauty.
Local Ferries: For visiting nearby islands like Askøy or Sotra.

7. Funicular and Cable Cars:

Fløibanen Funicular: Takes you from the city center to the top of Mount Fløyen for panoramic views.
Ulriken Cable Car: Ascends Mount Ulriken, the highest of Bergen’s seven mountains.

8. Airport Transfers:

Bybanen Light Rail: The most affordable way to get to/from Bergen Airport.
Airport Bus (Flybussen): Offers direct service between the airport and city center hotels.

Tips:

Weather Preparedness: Bergen is known for rain, so wear waterproof gear if walking or biking.
Explore Beyond the City: Public transport options like buses and trains make it easy to visit nearby areas like Voss or Flam.

Free travel with the Bergen Pass

Buy the Bergen Card and get free entry or discounted admission to museums and attractions, events or sightseeing tours. You also get great discounts on restaurants and parking and you can travel for free on busses in Bergen and the region operated by Skyss. The boat to Askøy and Nordhordland is also included.

The Bergen Light Rail line number 1 (between Bergen airport and the city center) and line number 2 (between the city centre and Fyllingsdalen) is also free. Please note: the Bergen Card includes local buses (Skyss) and the Light Rail (Bybanen) in Vestland county. It is NOT valid on VY trains, express coaches and regional boat routes and ferries. (only boats zone A)

vegandining

Eating out for vegans in Bergen

While Bergen might not be the most vegan-friendly city in the world, there are still plenty of high-quality options to choose from.

Pygmalion is a great centrally located ecological and veggie focused restaurant in the centre of town near Torget.
The Bergen branch of the health food store chain, Kinsarvik also stocks a range of vegan products from mock meats to vegan cheeses, as well as sweets and treats from great brands like Pana Chocolate, Funky Fresh Food, Bio-Life, Suma, Seed and Bean amongst many others.
Dwell is a restaurant, a bar, a night club, AND a yoga studio! They have so many vegan options on their menu, including burgers, toasted sandwiches and empanadas.
Hallaisen is brilliantly placed in central Bergen and has a cosy little shop where they sell a range of homemade ice creams. The vegan option is the mango ice cream made with coconut milk which is excellently creamy and delicious, a proper ice cream for vegans, not just a sorbet!
Soya is one of the most upscale restaurants in Bergen. They have upped their game and added a lot more vegan options.

The best time to visit Bergen

The best time to visit Bergen, Norway, depends on your preferences for weather, activities, and crowds. Here’s a breakdown:

1. Summer (June to August) – Ideal for Pleasant Weather

Why Visit?
- Long days with nearly 18–20 hours of daylight due to the Midnight Sun.
- Temperatures are mild, averaging between 13–20°C (55–68°F).
- Perfect for outdoor activities like hiking, fjord cruises, and exploring the city’s iconic sites like Bryggen and Mount Fløyen.
Downside: It’s the busiest and most expensive time, as many tourists flock to the city.

2. Autumn (September to November) – Fewer Crowds

Why Visit?
- Cooler temperatures (7–15°C or 45–59°F), with colorful autumn foliage adding charm to the surrounding landscapes.
- Fewer crowds compared to summer, making it more peaceful to explore.
Downside: Increased chances of rain, as Bergen is known for its wet climate.

3. Winter (December to February) – Cozy and Magical

Why Visit?
- Festive holiday atmosphere with Christmas markets and cozy cafes.
- Opportunities for winter sports in nearby mountains.
- Northern lights visibility increases slightly if you venture further into the fjord regions.
Downside: Cold temperatures (1–5°C or 34–41°F) and shorter days with limited daylight.

4. Spring (March to May) – Blooming Beauty

Why Visit?
- Nature begins to awaken with flowers blooming and snow melting in the mountains.
- Milder weather, ranging from 5–12°C (41–54°F).
- Fewer tourists and lower accommodation costs.
Downside: Unpredictable weather – it might still be quite rainy.

Overall Recommendation

For the best mix of weather and activities: Visit in late spring (May) or summer (June to early August).
If you want to avoid crowds: Aim for early autumn (September) or spring (April-May).

Always pack layers and waterproof gear, as Bergen’s weather can be unpredictable year-round!

stay

Where to stay in Bergen

1. Mid Range: Citybox Bergen Danmarksplass

This budget design hotel is located in Danmarksplass in Bergen, and offers free WiFi, a 24-hour front desk, and a restaurant.

All rooms at Citybox Bergen Danmarksplass are simple and tastefully decorated, and feature a desk and window seating. Some rooms come with an additional seating area. Each room includes a private bathroom with a shower, a hair dryer and free toiletries.

Popular points of interest near the accommodations include Nygårdspark, Vilvite – Bergen Science Center and Arenum Exhibition Center. The city center can easily be reached by three tram stops. The nearest airport is Bergen Flesland Airport, 9.9 mi from Citybox Bergen Danmarksplass.

2. Luxury – Bergen Børs Hotel

Located in an old stock exchange building from 1862, Bergen Børs Hotel offers accommodations in central Bergen, 459 feet from Bergen’s fish market. Guests can enjoy cocktails and a variety of local beers at the on-site bar, or relax in one of the three onsite restaurants that focus on locally produced ingredients. Free WiFi is offered.

The UNESCO World Heritage Bryggen district is 1804 feet from Bergen Børs Hotel, while the Fløibanen Funicular is 1476 feet away.

3. Budget – City Hostel Bergen

Located only 820 feet from Bergen Station, City Hostel Bergen provides basic hostel accommodations with free Wi-Fi and a shared kitchen. Bergen’s famous Fish Market is a 5-minute walk away.

City Hostel Bergen provides modern and bright rooms featuring wooden floors, lockable wardrobes and a writing desk. Bathroom facilities are either private or shared.

Only 5 minutes’ walk away is the medieval harbor area, Bryggen, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.