Greinager
We were not sure what the day would bring. The plan for the day had been to travel to the small town of Geiranger at the head of Geirangerfjord, which was up in the mountains. We were not sure whether the heavy rains would have impacted the route we were going to be travelling on.
I checked the messages on my phone and noticed one from the host at the guest house we were staying at in Geiranger. The message was about road closures in Geiranger due to potential landslides due to the excessive rain. Oh heck – it looked like our plans for moving on today were screwed. About this time a time I got a message from the host where we were staying about whether we’d like to remain here for another day – so we said yes. I then wrote to the guest house in Geiranger that due to the road closures, we wouldn’t see them until the following day – assuming the roads were open. I then got a message back, clarifying that the road from Ålesund to Geiranger was open and that they had been talking about a road from another direction. We now had a decision to make! The rain had stopped so we decided to journey to Geiranger.
After letting our host know we were moving on we set out.
From Ålesund, we travelled to Linge, where we took a short ferry ride to Eidsdal. The road from Eidsdal climbs up to a mountain pass where there is a large parking lot. From here there are the trailheads for several hikes – and most importantly toilets.
A couple of hundred metres below the pass is a switchback curve which is the start of a set of sharp switchbacks, called the Eagle’s Road that leads down to the village of Geiranger. At this first curve, we pulled in, as there was a viewing platform just across the way that looked down into Geirangerfjord. On a good day the view from here would be spectacular, but today all we could see were the low clouds below us. There were many people here equally disappointed with the view!
We set off to negotiate the switchbacks, which were extremely tight. The driver in front of us was not very confident with the road conditions, and at one point they came to one of the curves at the same time a coach was coming the other way. The driver of the car got their angles wrong and blocked the road for the coach which needed more space to swing around. So, the car had to reposition itself, but they made a mess of it. In the end, things resolved themselves and we ended up in Geiranger, which does not have a whole lot to it.
We were staying at a guest house called ‘in Lunheim’ in Geiranger, which was up on the hill above the town. As we drove up the road, which was nearly as curved as the Eagle Road, we passed by a couple of mountain rivers which were in spate due to the heavy rains.
When we arrived, we were greeted by the hosts, a Glaswegian called Ian – who I thought was Norwegian when we had spoken on the phone, but he was Scottish but had lived in Norway for many years. He was extremely chatty but in an obtrusive and creepy sort of way and left us desperate to get away from him. So, we developed a code to help the other escape from Ian if either of us got cornered.
Our room was lovely, with some very nice furniture, including some chairs that reminded Karen a bit of her favourite Ikea chair, the Poäng. I later got caught by Ian who gave me the story behind these chairs, which were manufactured locally. President Jimmy Carter visited Norway in 1982 and was taken to this chair manufacturer and ended up buying of number of these exact chairs which got sent to the White House – and Ian thought they might still be there.
Later Karen got caught by Ian when she got out of the car, and he showed her an amazing chair made by the same company that was so perfectly balanced you could recline it all the way back. It didn’t matter what size and shape this chair would work. We both tried it and said we could easily sleep in the chair.
Next to our room was a shared kitchen, each room had its own numbered drawers and cupboard.
The kitchen was a great place to meet the guests, which were all our age. We met a nice couple from Brazil who were on vacation – their English was not great, but this never stopped Karen from engaging. The kitchen would have had a great view of the fjord had it not been for the low cloud.
Day 2
Ian had for many years been a local mountain guide and told us about a trail from the large car park we’d visited the day earlier on our way into Geiranger, which gave impressive views down into the fjord. It wasn’t a long trail, about a 3km round trip, so we decided to give it a go. Getting there required us to go back up the winding Eagle Road. We made a stop at the viewpoint we’d visited the day before. The tour buses had yet to arrive, so we more or less had the place to ourselves, and unlike yesterday we had great views of Geirangerfjord and the surrounding mountains.
After taking a few photos we climbed back in the car and drove to the parking lot. The first part of the trail was a tractor road, and had some gravel cover, but as we progressed things go a lot boggier, and the going was harder. We pressed on and eventually reached some abandoned farm building. From here we could look down onto the fjord and Geiranger in the distance. The dilapidated farm buildings made a great foreground for our photographs. From here the trail split to new trails. One of the nice things around this part of Norway is the trails are colour coded in the same way as ski runs are, with green being the easiest and black for experts only. The trails ahead were marked red and black, which would have been challenging under normal circumstances, but after the recent heavy rains they would have been dangerous even for experience hikers. So, we turned around and went back to the carpark.
We looked at the board that showed all the other walks in the area and noticed that there was a ‘green’ rated walk that headed up into the mountains which ended at a lake. It was around a 6km round hike. It sounded fun, so off we set.
The first couple of kilometres were on a gravel track that slowly climbed upwards. The good thing was that our return journey would be downhill. As we climbed, we could see more of the mountains around us, and in front of us was a huge cirque that had been carved by a glacier that was no longer there. It was a wonderful hike, and the best thing was we were the only ones on the trail! The gravel trail then ended, and we started to have to negotiate the mud and pools that had formed with all the rain. It was certainly harder and slower to make progress, but it made it even more satisfying. Luckily, there were some stones embedded in the path and bits of wood that we could use to navigate the muddier sections. At one point we had to cross a fast-flowing stream using a rickety old bridge.
After about an hour we reached the small mountain lake. It was quite stunning. The lake was filled by a waterfall at one end by a waterfall. At the exit to the lake was a small dam to stop the water from flowing away completely. We assumed that this was partially man-made, probably to act as a water source for the livestock that roam these parts in the summer months.
We contemplated going for a swim, at least Karen did, but it was obviously going to be cold, and we had nothing to dry ourselves on – and it was not a particularly warm day. So, after resting up for a few minutes we started to head back down the mountain.
As we had hoped, coming down was a lot easier than going up, and we were relieved when we got to the gravel trail again as we didn’t have to concentrate so hard on where to put our feet. About two hours after setting off we reached the car, slightly tired but thrilled with the walking we had done in the morning.
We headed back into Geiranger, with the plan to park up in the village and take a walk around. Unfortunately, things had got a lot busier since we’d passed through earlier in the morning, so there was nowhere to park, So, we drove back up the hill towards Lunheim. About halfway up was the Norwegian Fjord Centre, where there was a big car park, so we decided to stop there. Before setting off down the hill, we decided we needed some sustenance, so we stopped in the Centre’s café for a cup of hot chocolate and a cake.
From the Centre there is a steep trail, made up of steps and a boardwalk that follows the river down the mountain to Geirangerfjord. In sections, the river becomes a waterfall and rapids, which had been made even more spectacular with the rain.
It was around a kilometre into the village. As we had suspected there was not a lot to Geiranger village – there was a chapel, a supermarket, a couple of tourist shops, and the rest were cafes, restaurants and fast-food places.
Despite being mid-week, the place was packed with tourists – after all, it was still the height of the summer season, not that you could tell by the weather!
We didn’t hang around too long and then started the climb back up the hill to the Norwegian Fjord Centre. There were a lot of stairs to negotiate, and we’d already covered a lot of distance today, so by the time we got back to the car we were knackered.
Luckily, it was a short distance back to Lunheim, where a nice warm shower awaited us.
day of exploring Oslo, so we made our way back to the metro station and from there back to our apartment.
Day 3
When planning to come to Geiranger I had looked at boat tours on Geirangerfjord, which is obviously a popular activity, but in the end, I decided to book us on the ferry, along with our car, to the small town of Hellesylt. The journey takes about one hour and fifteen minutes and doubles as a tour of the fjord.
Geirangerfjord, as we’d already seen was a stunningly beautiful place. It is a 15-kilometre-long branch of the Sunnylvsfjorden, which is a branch of the Storfjorden (Great Fjord). The fjord is one of Norway’s most visited tourist sites. In 2005, it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, jointly with the Nærøyfjorden.
The sides of the fjord are incredibly steep and rise precipitously from the waters of the fjord. The narrowness of the Geirangerfjord makes this all the more spectacular. There are several waterfalls that cascade down from the top of the mountains, the most famous of which is the Seven Sisters Waterfall. With all the rain we’d had over the last few days the waterfalls were truly spectacular.
Along the fjord’s sides, there are several now-abandoned farms, some of which are accessible using the mountain trails. Working these farms, especially in the winter months would have been arduous.
We didn’t have the best weather for viewing the fjord, but the clouds had lifted above the mountain peaks, and it was not raining so we could appreciate Geirangerfjord’s beauty.
At Hellesylt, we disembarked the ferry.
Getting to Geiranger
The best way to visit Geiranger and the area around the Geirangerfjord is with your own car. Therefore, most travelers rent a car in Ålesund, which is the closest city, and enjoy a nice road trip along the nearby fjords.
Many travelers visit the Geirangerfjord on a road trip to the Fjords of Southern Norway, renting a car in Bergen or Trondheim. You can find the best car rental deals on Rentalcars or Discovercars. It is advisable to book cars and accommodations well in advance.
Another popular way to visit the Geirangerfjord is with one of the various fjord cruises. Most Southern Norwegian Fjords Cruises depart from Bergen or Amsterdam (Netherlands), Southampton (UK), Copenhagen (Denmark) and other ports in Europe and the USA.
Getting to Geiranger by public transport is not that easy – you should get to Ålesund and take local buses from there, but this requires changing 3-4 buses and a couple of ferries. When traveling by bus you should check at the Bus Station for the most up-to-date timetables, because you may need to stay overnight in a place waiting for the next connection.
The best time to visit Geiranger
Geiranger, Norway, is well known for its Subarctic climate – classified as Dfc under the Köppen climate classification system. Subarctic climates are known for their severe winters, cool summers, and lack of a dry season. Geographically nestled in northern Norway, Geiranger’s weather depicts distinctive shifts monthly, dealing with cold temperatures along with significant precipitation.
The best time to visit
The favorable time to step foot in Geiranger lies around the mid-year months from May to August. During this period, the temperature averages between 6°C (42.8°F) to 11°C (51.8°F), making it relatively warmer. Rainfall also subsides to an extent, with June experiencing the lowest precipitation of about 59mm (2.32″). Simultaneously, daylight and sunshine reach their zenith, providing ample opportunity to bask in the natural wonders of this idyllic destination, without the potential deterrence of rain or cold.
The worst time to visit
While Geiranger packs its own charm in every season, the initial months from January to March may pose challenges for the ill-prepared traveler. During this time, the temperatures hover between -6°C (21.2°F) to -3°C (26.6°F), reaching its chilliest. Rainfall and daylight depict contrasting extremes – rainfall hitting a high with an average of 143mm (5.63″) in January, while daylight is scarce averaging just 6.3 hours. Hence, unless wellaclimatized to subarctic conditions, it may be advisable to hold off travel plans during these months.
Where to stay in Geiranger
1. Grande Fjord Hotel
Beautifully located by the Geiranger Fjord, Grande Fjord Hotel offers rooms with cable TV and private bathrooms. Most rooms have private balconies with stunning fjord views. Free WiFi is available in common areas.
The 6th floor panoramic restaurant at Hotel Grande Fjord offers Scandinavian dishes and a buffet breakfast every morning, Drinks are available in the lounge bar.
Guests can hike to Dalsnibba, Ørnesvingen or Flydalsjuvet and enjoy the spectacular views. Boat cruises, fishing and canoeing are also popular activities in the area.
Geiranger village is 1.2 mi from the hotel.
2. Havila Hotel Geiranger
This hotel features panoramic views of the UNESCO-listed Geiranger Fjord. It offers free Wi-Fi internet. All rooms have a private bathroom and a flat-screen TV.
Havila Hotel Geiranger’s history dates back to the 1860s. Some rooms offer views of Geiranger Fjord.
The hotel terrace also provides panoramic views of the fjord and mountains.
Havila Hotel Geiranger has 2 restaurants. Restaurant Låna offers an à la carte menu and an outdoor seating area. The informal Restaurant Skageflå serves Norwegian specialties and features traditional décor.
3. Lunheim in Geiranger
Lunheim in Geiranger is quietly located on a farm in Geiranger. It offers panoramic views of the Geiranger Fjord and guest rooms with a seating area and private bathroom. There is free WiFi access.
Guests can relax on the terrace or in the garden while taking in the impressive views,and enjoying the barbecue facilities. Some rooms have a access to a kitchenette, while others have access to a well equipped, shared kitchen.
At Lunheim you will find a shuttle service and a tour desk.
a kitchenette with a fridge, a microwave and a stovetop. The rooms have bed linen.
