Hoblets On The Go

Greece: Delphi

Delphi was an ancient Greek town and the location of the most important Greek temple and oracle of Apollo. It sits on a steep lower slope of Mount Parnassus, about 6 miles (10 km) from the Gulf of Corinth. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987.

Delphi was considered by the ancient Greeks to be the centre of the world. According to ancient myth, Zeus released two eagles, one from the east, and the other from the west, and caused them to fly toward the centre. They met at the future site of Delphi, and the spot was marked by a stone called the omphalos (navel), which was later housed in the Temple of Apollo.

It is believed the area was first inhabited in the 15th century BCE. Priests from Knossos brought the cult of Apollo to the site in the 8th century BCE. The Delphic oracle, also called Pythia, Pytho, and Oracle of Delphi, the most famous ancient oracle, is believed to deliver prophecies from the Greek god Apollo. She was based in his temple at Delphi. The Pythia’s counsel was most in demand to forecast the outcome of projected wars or political actions. Delphi also became an important centre for sports. The Panhellenic Pythian Games were held in Delphi every four years beginning in 582 BCE.

After the Romans captured Delphi in the early 2nd century BCE, it was frequently pillaged. Nero is said to have removed 500 statues from the vicinity. With the spread of Christianity, the old pagan stronghold fell into decay, and it was permanently closed by the decree of Theodosius about 385 CE.

The site of Delphi was later occupied by the village of Kastrí, until 1890, when the village was moved and renamed Delphi. Excavations, began in 1892, revealing the plan of the ancient site, and the remains of its buildings.

Our plan had worked as there were no large groups at the archaeological site when we arrived. Yeah! So, we set off to explore. The ancient city was built on the steep side of a mountain, so our trajectory was in an upward direction. There were paths to follow, but this definitely was not a wheelchair-accessible site.

The first major sight along the route was the Treasury of the Athenians, which was in pretty good nick. This building was constructed by the Athenians to house dedications and votive offerings made by their city and citizens to the sanctuary of Apollo. The entire treasury including its sculptural decoration is built of Parian marble and was built in the Doric style.

The Treasury of the Athenians

The trail moves on past the Treasury to the remarkable polygonal wall of Delphi which supports the platform on which the Temple of Apollo sits. The wall is built in polygonal Lesbian-style masonry, with irregular interlocking blocks with curved joints.

Next up was the Temple of Apollo.

The temple of Apollo is the most important building in the sanctuary of Apollo at Delphi. According to the legend, the first temple of Apollo at Delphi was made of laurel branches, the second of beeswax and feathers, and the third of bronze, while the fourth was built by the legendary architects Trofonios and Agamedes aided by Apollo himself. This was probably the stone temple destroyed by fire in 548 BCE. The replacement temple Doric peristyle temple, with six columns at the end and fifteen at the sides. Stone-built and marble-clad, it was sumptuously decorated with sculptures by the famous artist Antenor.

This temple was destroyed in 373 BCE by an earthquake and was rebuilt for the third time in 330 BCE and has only been partially restored.

The platform of the Temple of Apollo with polygonal Lesbian-style masonry wall
The Temple of Apollo - Delphi
Looking back at the Temple of Apollo

One of the most impressive structures in the sanctuary is the ancient theatre. It sits further up the hill from the Temple of Apollo and would have provided the seated audience with a spectacular view of the entire sanctuary below and the valley beyond. It was built in the 4th BCE out of local Parnassus limestone and was remodelled several times subsequently.

Its 35 rows can accommodate around five thousand spectators who in ancient times enjoyed plays, poetry readings, and musical events during the various festivals that took place periodically at Delphi. The lower tiers of seats were built during the Hellenistic and Roman periods.

The Theatre at Delphi

We carried on up the hill following the Sacred Way to our final stop, the ancient gymnasium.

In ancient times, this was a large block of buildings that included the gymnasium, the palaestra, and the baths. These buildings were constructed in the 4th century BCE and went through many modifications in the centuries that followed.

The gymnasium was the training place, mostly for track and field, for the athletes that participated in the Delphic Games. The athletes were trained for wrestling in the palaestra. In Hellenistic times, the Gymnasium was also used for intellectual and cultural events, such as lectures. In Roman times, the baths were rebuilt so that hot water was provided there.

Now we retraced our steps back down the hill through the sanctuary and then onto the Museum, stopping at the small café for an iced coffee.

The Gymnasium at Delphi Archaeological Site

Opened in 2003 the Archaeological Museum of Delphi is home to the extensive artefacts unearthed during excavations at the Delphi oracle and its vicinity. It has been remodelled several times and is now a beautiful, light open space.

It was busy when we reached the museum, but it was designed to deal with large numbers, so it didn’t feel too bad. Several staff members were on hand, which was just as well as several visitors wanting to reach out and touch the exhibits. We’ve seen this happen often – some tourists are ignorant and disrespectful.

There are many impressive exhibits at the museum, the most prized of which include the Charioteer of Delphi, the frieze of the Siphnian Treasury, two identical Kouros statues, the Sphinx of Naxos, chryselephantine sculptures, inscriptions, bronze figurines, and bronze votive offerings.

The Sphinx of Naxos
Treasury of the Siphnians
The Twins of Argos
The Charioteer

Planning your visit to Delphi

Key Highlights of Delphi

  1. Archaeological Site of Delphi:

    • Temple of Apollo: Once home to the Oracle of Delphi, this temple is the centrepiece of the site.
    • Theatre of Delphi: A well-preserved ancient Greek theatre with stunning views of the valley.
    • Stadium of Delphi: Used for the Pythian Games, it’s one of the best-preserved stadiums from antiquity.
    • Tholos of Delphi: A circular structure in the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia.

  2. Delphi Archaeological Museum:

    • Houses artefacts and treasures found at the site, including the famous Charioteer of Delphi and Sphinx of Naxos.

  3. Surrounding Area:

    • Mount Parnassus: Offers hiking trails with spectacular views.
    • Arachova: A picturesque village nearby, known for its charm and local cuisine.

How to Get There

  • From Athens:
    • By Car: A 2.5–3 hour drive (approx. 180 km) via National Road E75 and local roads.
    • By Bus: Regular buses from Athens to Delphi run by KTEL (approx. 3 hours).

  • From Thessaloniki: A longer journey, around 5–6 hours by car or bus.

Tips for Visiting

  1. Timing: Start early in the morning to avoid crowds and the heat.
  2. Tickets: Combined tickets cover both the archaeological site and the museum.
  3. Clothing: Wear comfortable shoes for walking and a hat/sunscreen for sunny days.
  4. Guides: Consider hiring a local guide or using an audio guide for a richer experience.
  5. Accessibility: Parts of the site can be steep or uneven, so plan accordingly.

The best time to visit Delphi

The optimal times to visit Delphi are during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October). During these periods, the weather is mild, making it comfortable to explore the archaeological sites. Additionally, these months typically attract fewer tourists compared to the peak summer season, allowing for a more serene experience.

In contrast, the summer months (July and August) can be quite hot, with temperatures often rising significantly, which may make walking around the site tiring.

If you plan to visit during the winter months (November to March), be prepared for colder temperatures and the possibility of rain or even snowfall, as Delphi is situated in a mountainous region. Some parts of the archaeological site might be closed, and the museum may have reduced operating hours during this period.

stay

Where to stay in Delphi

1.  Mid Range: Arion Hotel

The Arion Hotel is a traditionally styled establishment located in Delphi, Greece, at the foothills of Mount Parnassus. It offers panoramic views of the Corinthian Gulf and is conveniently situated approximately 200 meters from the archaeological site.

The hotel features 23 air-conditioned rooms, each equipped with a private bathroom, hairdryer, and, in some cases, a balcony offering views of the mountains or sea.

2. Luxury – Amalia Hotel Delphi

Amalia Hotel Delphi is a 4-star establishment situated on the slopes of Mount Parnassus in Delphi, Greece. Its modern architecture harmonizes with the natural surroundings, offering panoramic views of the valley extending to the sea and the towns of Itea and Galaxidi.

Accommodation: The hotel features 188 guestrooms distributed over four levels, each designed to provide natural light and comfort. Many rooms include terraces or balconies, with most offering impressive views of the valley and sea, while others overlook the internal gardens. All rooms are equipped with modern amenities and are fully air-conditioned or heated, depending on the season.

3. Budget – Sibylla Hotel

Sibylla Hotel is a family-run establishment located in the heart of Delphi, Greece, at 9 Pavlou & Friderikis Street, just 400 meters from the Archaeological Site and Museum of Delphi.

The hotel offers eight recently renovated rooms

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