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Greece: Athens – The Acropolis

The Acropolis sits atop a rocky hill overlooking Athens and is made up of a collection of citadels, and temples blending the Doric and Ionic design styles made popular in ancient Greece. The most iconic buildings on the Acropolis are the Erechtheion, the Propylaea, the Temple of Athena Nike and of course, the Parthenon, dedicated to the goddess Athena.

Climbing from the main entrance the first site we came across was the impressive Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a stone Roman theatre structure located on the southwest slope of the Acropolis. The exact date of construction is unknown, but it was certainly built sometime after Regilla’s death and 174 AD. The roofed Odeon served mainly musical festivals and could host up to 5,000 spectators. The Odeon was destroyed in 267 BC at the incursion of the Heruli (or Erils), who burnt and flattened many buildings in ancient Athens. The monument was restored during 1952-1953 using marble from the Dionysus area; since 1957 it has staged concerts and plays, mostly as part of the Athens Festival.

The impressive Odeon of Herodes Atticus - The Acropolis, Athens, Greece
The impressive Odeon of Herodes Atticus
Plays are still performed every year at the impressive Odeon of Herodes Atticus - The Acropolis, Athens, Greece
Plays are still performed every year at the impressive Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Finally, we gingerly worked our way up to the top of the Acropolis, passing the Temple of Athena Nike, which sits on the southwest corner of the Acropolis. Built around 420 BC, the temple was dedicated to the goddesses Athena and Nike and is the earliest fully Ionic temple on the Acropolis. Nike was the goddess of victory in Greek mythology, and Athena was worshipped in this form, representative of being victorious in war. The citizens worshipped the goddesses in hopes of a successful outcome in the long Peloponnesian War fought against the Spartans and allies. The history of this architectural monument has been quite tumultuous. In the 5th century C.E. the temple was converted into a Christian church, then in the 17th century, it was completely dismantled by the Ottoman Turks who needed its material to build fortifications. The temple was later reconstructed after Greece regained independence in 1832. In the 1930s the building was restored again. The restoration was not carried out to the highest standards, and in recent years has had to be re-done to ensure the long-term stability of the temple.

The Temple of Athena Nike

The steps led us up through the entrance to the main gate to the Acropolis, the Propylaea, which was a magnificent entrance hall, designed by the Athenian architect Mnesicles.

As we passed through Propylaea, we got our first close view of the Parthenon. So far, we’d only seen it at a distance, and it had looked impressive, but up close it was imposing.

The temple that is known as the Parthenon was built on the Acropolis of Athens between 447 and 438 BCE. It was part of a vast building program masterminded by the Athenian statesman Perikles. Inside the temple stood a colossal statue representing Athena, the patron goddess of the city. The statue, which no longer exists, was made of gold and ivory and was the work of the celebrated sculptor Pheidias. Although the building was to undergo several changes, it remained largely intact until the seventeenth century. The early Christians turned the temple into a church, adding an apse at the east end. It was probably at this time that the sculptures representing the birth of Athena were removed. The Parthenon served as a church until Athens was conquered by the Ottoman Turks in the fifteenth century when it became a mosque. In 1687, during the Venetian siege of the Acropolis, the defending Turks were using the Parthenon as a store for gunpowder, which was ignited by the Venetian bombardment. The explosion blew out the heart of the building, destroying the roof parts of the walls and the colonnade.

The continuing work of the Greek authorities is to try and restore the Parthenon to something near its ancient form, hence the presence of heavy-lifting cranes and scaffolding, which are ugly, but necessary. Sadly, the conquering forces that have passed through Athens over the centuries had little regard for preserving the heritage and artefacts of ancient cultures.
The top of the Acropolis has several gravel paths to navigate around, but you can also walk across the bare rock to move around. In some ways getting here later meant that we’d missed some of the tour groups from the cruise ships who would have been here earlier in the day. The best advice, which we’d failed to follow, is to get here first thing in the morning or after 16:00 (the Acropolis is open until 20:00 in the summer months).

The Parthenon on the Acropolis - Athens, Greece
The Parthenon on the Acropolis - Athens, Greece
The Parthenon on the Acropolis
The Parthenon on the Acropolis - Athens, Greece
The Parthenon on the Acropolis - Athens, Greece

The other main building on the Acropolis is the Erechtheion. The temple was constructed on the Acropolis of Athens between 421 and 406 BCE in the Golden Age of the city to house the ancient wooden cult statue of Athena. The Erechtheion was built from Pentelic marble which came from the nearby Mt. Pentelicus and would have originally looked white, but the presence of iron in the marble, which has oxidised over time has left the stone with a honey-coloured hue. The most distinctive features of the Erechtheion are the finely carved sculptures known as Caryatids or korai as they were known to the ancient Greeks.

Like many classical buildings, the Erechtheion has suffered a chequered history. Damaged by fire only ten years or so after its completion, it was repaired in 395 BCE. In the 6th century, it was converted into a Christian church, the Franks made it into a small palace, and in c. 1460 CE the Erechtheion suffered the indignity of being used as a harem for the pleasure of the Turkish governor.

The Erechtheion - the Acropolis, Athens , Greece
The Erechtheion

We spent a while looking around the Acropolis, trying not to get agitated with our fellow tourists who seemed mainly interested in getting the perfect Instagram picture. At the east end of the Acropolis is a pedestal with a flagpole from which hangs a large Greek flag. Every day at 06:30, a detachment of the Greek infantry raises the Greek flag at the Acropolis. At sunset, you will find another detachment of the same infantry in front of the Acropolis entrance to go up and take the flag down again for the night. On Sunday, this tradition is carried out by the Evzones.

There is an apocryphal story that when the German army occupied Greece during World War II, they climbed to the Acropolis where there was a young man on duty from the elite Evzone unit called, Konstantinos Koukidis, who was ordered to take down the Greek flag and replace it with the Swastika. The story has it that he did take the flag down, wrapped it around himself and through himself off the Acropolis to his death. On May 30, 1941, when two teenage Greek boys, Manolis Glezos and Lakis Santas, climbed up the Acropolis and took down the Nazi flag. This was one of the first resistance acts in Greece and was an inspiration for the Greeks to resist occupation.

From the top of the Acropolis, we worked our way down from the top of the Acropolis down the western and southern and western slopes where there were some more archaeological sites including the Theatre of Dionysus. The Theatre of Dionysus is regarded as the first sample of Greek theatres and the birthplace of Greek drama. It was built into a natural hollow at the southern slopes of the Acropolis, and it is believed to be the first theatre in the world. It was dedicated to Dionysus, the god of wine-making and ecstasy, whose festivals were the driving force behind the development of Greek theatre. Probably established in the late 6th century, the theatre has been reconstructed many times since then.

The Theatre of Dionysus on the slopes of the Acropolis - Athens, Greece
The Theatre of Dionysus on the slopes of the Acropolis
The Theatre of Dionysus on the slopes of the Acropolis - Athens, Greece
The Theatre of Dionysus the birthplace of Greek drama

Planning your visit to the Acropolis

Planning a visit to the Acropolis in Athens is an exciting experience, as it is one of the most iconic and historically significant landmarks in the world. Here’s a guide to help you make the most of your visit:

1. Best Time to Visit

  • Avoid peak summer (July and August): These months can be extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 35°C (95°F). If possible, visit during the shoulder seasons of April-May or September-October for more pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
  • Morning or Late Afternoon: Arriving early (before 9 AM) or later in the afternoon (after 4 PM) is ideal to avoid large crowds and to enjoy cooler temperatures.

2. Acropolis Tickets

  • Admission Fee: As of now, the general admission ticket costs about €20, which gives you access to the Acropolis site, including the Parthenon, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion, and other monuments.
  • Combination Ticket: You can also buy a combination ticket for €30-35, which includes entrance to other important archaeological sites in Athens, such as the Ancient Agora, the Roman Agora, and the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
  • Free Admission Days: The Acropolis has several free admission days, including on certain national holidays (e.g., 6 March, 18 May, and the first Sunday of each month from November to March).
  • Online Booking: It’s a good idea to buy tickets online in advance to skip the long queues.

3. Things to See

  • The Parthenon: The main attraction and symbol of Ancient Greece. It was dedicated to the goddess Athena and is an architectural masterpiece.
  • The Temple of Athena Nike: A small, elegant temple dedicated to the goddesses Athena and Nike (Victory).
  • The Erechtheion: Famous for its unique asymmetrical structure and the Porch of the Caryatids, where statues of women serve as columns.
  • The Odeon of Herodes Atticus: A beautiful Roman theatre still used for performances today.
  • The Acropolis Museum: Not on the hill itself but located nearby, this museum houses many of the Parthenon’s original sculptures and other artefacts.

4. Guides and Tours

  • Guided Tours: Consider taking a guided tour for a deeper understanding of the site’s history and significance. You can book a private or group tour, either in person or via an audio guide.
  • Audio Guides: Available for rent at the entrance or as an app download. These are very useful if you prefer to explore on your own but still want informative commentary.
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Getting around Athens

Getting around Athens, Greece, is relatively straightforward, thanks to a variety of transportation options. Here are the main ways to travel around the city:

1. Public Transport

  • Metro: The Athens Metro system is modern, fast, and affordable. It has three main lines (Red, Blue, and Green), and it connects key areas like the airport, central Athens, and major tourist attractions such as the Acropolis and Syntagma Square. The metro runs from early morning until midnight, and it’s the most efficient way to travel long distances within the city.
  • Trams: Athens also has a tram system, which is especially useful for getting to the southern suburbs, including the beach areas like Glyfada. Trams are slower than the metro but are a good option for exploring along the coast.
  • Buses: There is an extensive bus network that serves both the city center and surrounding areas. Some buses are also more scenic and can take you to places the metro doesn’t reach, like the hills around Athens.
  • Trolleybuses: These are similar to buses but are electrically powered and mostly serve the central areas of Athens. They’re a good option for short trips.
  • Suburban Railway (Proastiakos): This serves areas outside the city center, including the Athens International Airport (Elefthérios Venizélos) and the port of Piraeus.

2. Taxi

  • Taxis are readily available in Athens, and you can easily hail one from the street or use a ride-hailing app like Beat or Uber (though the availability of Uber can vary). Taxis are convenient but can be more expensive than public transport, especially during peak times or for longer distances. Always make sure the meter is running, or agree on a price beforehand.

3. Bikes and Scooters

  • Athens has made strides in becoming more bike-friendly, with some bike-sharing programs and dedicated lanes. e-bikes and e-scooters (such as Lime, Circ, or Bolt) are also popular for short trips around the city center. They can be rented via an app and are ideal for exploring the central districts.

4. Walking

  • Athens is a very walkable city, particularly in areas like Plaka, Monastiraki, and Syntagma, which are home to many major tourist attractions. The city is full of pedestrianized streets, especially in the historic areas, so walking is a great way to explore at your own pace.

5. Car Rental

  • Renting a car in Athens is not typically recommended for getting around the city due to heavy traffic, limited parking, and the narrow streets in the city center. However, if you plan to explore areas outside Athens, such as Cape Sounion or Peloponnese, a rental car could be more useful.

6. Funicular

  • The Funicular Railway takes visitors up to the top of Lycabettus Hill, offering panoramic views of Athens. It’s a great way to enjoy the cityscape and reach the hill’s summit if you’re not up for a hike.

Eating out for vegans

  • Cookoomela Grill, located in the Exarcheia neighbourhood of Athens, Greece, is renowned as the country’s first vegan souvlaki eatery. Established in April 2018 by Antonis Margaritis, his brother Vassilis, and partner Effie Savvidou, the restaurant has gained popularity for its innovative plant-based versions of traditional Greek street food

  • Mama Tierra is a vegan restaurant and street food establishment in Athens, Greece, offering a diverse menu inspired by global cuisines. The name “Mama Tierra” translates to “Mother Earth” in Spanish, reflecting their commitment to fresh, healthy, and cruelty-free dishes.

  • Veganaki is a vegan and gluten-free restaurant located at 38 Athanasiou Diakou, Athens, Greece. They offer a variety of Mediterranean-inspired dishes, including wraps, salads, pizzas, and traditional specialties like moussaka and pastitsio. The restaurant is open daily from 8:00 AM to 11:00 PM.

  • Vegan Beat is a renowned vegan restaurant located at Perikleous 56 in Athens, Greece. Situated near Syntagma and Monastiraki squares, it offers a cosy atmosphere for both locals and tourists.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Athens depends on your preferences, but generally, spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) are ideal for most travelers. Here’s why:

Spring (March to May)

  • Weather: Mild and pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F).
  • Crowds: Fewer tourists compared to summer, allowing you to enjoy sites like the Acropolis and Plaka without long queues.
  • Nature: Athens is adorned with blooming flowers, and the surrounding hills are lush.

Fall (September to November)

  • Weather: Warm and comfortable, especially in September and October, with temperatures around 20°C to 28°C (68°F to 82°F).
  • Crowds: Tourists begin to thin out after the peak summer season.
  • Events: Autumn often hosts cultural events, including music and arts festivals.

Summer (June to August)

  • Pros: Long daylight hours and bustling nightlife.
  • Cons: Extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 35°C (95°F). Major tourist attractions can be crowded.

Winter (December to February)

  • Pros: Fewer tourists and lower prices for accommodation. A great time for budget travelers.
  • Cons: Cooler weather (10°C to 15°C or 50°F to 59°F) and occasional rain.

For a perfect mix of pleasant weather, manageable crowds, and cultural experiences, aim for April, May, September, or October.

Where to stay

For tourists in Athens, the best areas to stay are Plaka, Syntagma, Monastiraki, and Koukaki as they are centrally located, close to major historical sites like the Acropolis, offer a vibrant atmosphere with many restaurants and shops, and are considered safe for visitors. 
 
Key points about these areas:
  • Plaka:
    The oldest part of Athens, with charming narrow streets, traditional tavernas, and souvenir shops. 
     
  • Syntagma:
    A central square with a more modern feel, close to the Parliament building and good access to public transport. 
     
  • Monastiraki:
    Lively area with a mix of traditional and modern shops, great for street food and people watching. 
     
  • Koukaki:
    A slightly quieter option with a local vibe, still close to the Acropolis and with good dining options. 

1.  Mid Range: Plaka Hotel

The Plaka Hotel is a 3-star superior accommodation situated in the historic Plaka neighborhood of Athens, Greece. Its prime location places guests within walking distance of major attractions such as the Acropolis, Syntagma Square, and the Monastiraki flea market. The hotel offers 71 elegantly decorated rooms, many featuring balconies with views of the Acropolis, Plaka, or Lycabettus Hill. Amenities include air conditioning, minibars, safes, and complimentary Wi-Fi. Guests can enjoy a rich American and Greek breakfast buffet each morning. A highlight of the hotel is its rooftop bar, providing breathtaking views of the Acropolis and the city. The 24-hour reception staff are available to assist with travel services and day trips around Athens.

2. Luxury – The Athenaeum

This 5-star establishment is situated at 4 Vouliagmenis Avenue & Kallirois Street, Athens, GR 11743. It offers elegantly designed rooms and suites, each uniquely furnished to provide a refined experience for both leisure and business travelers. Guests can enjoy Mediterranean cuisine at the Pasithea Rooftop Bar Restaurant, which provides panoramic city views. Additional amenities include an outdoor jacuzzi, a fitness room, and various wellness treatments.

3. Budget – Phaedra Hotel

The Phaedra Hotel is a budget-friendly accommodation located in the historic Plaka district of Athens, Greece. Situated at the foot of the Acropolis, it offers guests convenient access to major attractions, including the Parthenon and the Acropolis Museum.

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