Helsinki lies in the far south of the country, on a peninsula that is fringed by fine natural harbours and that protrudes into the Gulf of Finland. It is an easily accessible city full of history and all the modern trimmings you expect in a major Scandinavian city.
Finland: Helsinki – Seurasaari Open-Air Museum
Seurasaari Island had come up on my radar the day before and it had also been recommended by a friend on Facebook. By the time Karen rose I had plotted how we were going to get there. So, after a quick breakfast, we made some sandwiches for lunch and were on our way.
From our apartment it was around a 50-minute trip using public transport, a combination of metro and bus, to reach the bridge that crosses to Seurasaari. We had quickly grown to love Helsinki’s public transport system, it is clean, efficient, and easy to understand.
The City of Helsinki purchased the island of Seurasaari, which was called Fölis at the time, in the 1870s. Before this, the island belonged to Meilahti Farm and was used as a cow pasturage. In 1889, a folk park was established in Seurasaari, and in 1909 an open-air museum was established in the north-east part of the island. The open-air museum houses a collection of typical wooden buildings from the different provinces of Finland, from the late 17th century to the 20th century.
In the following years, the area underwent significant construction, including a road network, a steamship pier, an alcohol-free restaurant, wells, stairs, and lookout spots as well as two dance halls. The buildings were designed by architect Frithiof Mieritz. The bridge was completed in 1892.
We were here to primarily visit the open-air museum, but the setting is perfect for escaping the city with its pathways running through the wooded area and along the beaches. Access to the island is free, you just pay to enter the museum’s houses, so it is a popular destination for locals who just come to walk, run, and enjoy the beach. We met one such local, a middle-aged lady dressed in a bikini, who was wandering along the beach clearing up debris as she went. She explained she came here most days in the summer to swim. We thought this sounded madness, as even in the summer it is not warm in Helsinki, but she made it sound as if the waters were balmy. Her cleaning efforts were to help an even older lady who came here nearly every day to enjoy the water and had made it her task to keep the beaches clean. We left our new friend and went to explore the traditional houses of Finland.
The first house we entered was a large wooden farmhouse. Inside we were greeted by a young man who was dressed in traditional costume. He was a font of knowledge about the history of the period and the houses at Seurasaari. He’d been working here for 5 years, and his usual job was to give tours around the museum. The house was exceptionally large, and sparsely furnished, and would have been occupied by the extended family. It was fascinating to listen to this man talk, he was obviously passionate about his work.
From the first house, we continued our walk through the woods. At the second open house, we met a young lady, also dressed in a period costume. Karen was impressed by how quickly she was able to switch between languages, and it turned out that she was fluent in five. Probably not that uncommon in Finland as English and Sweden are taught in schools, so you only need to throw a couple on top of that! Like the first guide we met, she was very knowledgeable and explained to us more about the construction of these older Finnish houses. Many of the original houses apparently didn’t have roofs physically attached to the buildings. Large wooden ‘hooks’ were constructed along the top of the building and the roof was then built using these hooks to hold it up. The conversation soon extended beyond talking about ancient Finnish architecture to more modern subjects, including the state of education in the United States, a subject close to Karen’s heart. She recounted a story of a group of American university students studying architecture who visited the museum. They were in the manor house where they saw a bible written in ancient Finnish. One of the girls in the group asked why it was not in English as was this not the language of all European countries before they invented their own languages. Incredible!
There are many houses in the museum, mostly in the same style, some single-storey others with two floors. As well as houses there are examples of barns, boat houses and windmills.
In the museum, there are some more contemporary buildings, including the Kahiluoto manor house. The main building was built during the ownership of Agneta Eleonora de la Myle ca. in 1790. The manor was sold on several occasions in the early 1800s until it was acquired by a local farmer who did not need the main building. It was sold to the Museum and brought to Seurasaari in 1926.
The other houses had been very dark as the walls were brown, natural wood and the windows were very small. The manor house had large windows and the walls were plastered and either painted or wallpapered with bright colours. We loved the tiled stoves in this house, some covered in green tiles whilst others were decorated to look like Palladian columns. Also, downstairs there was a large kitchen with a traditional oven and lots of open shelves with shiny copper pans and molds. On the house’s upper floors, there were several bedrooms, with original pieces of furniture including what we called ‘telescopic’ beds. These beds fold into themselves so they look like they are for very short people but are a great space-saving idea.
To the rear of the church was the bell tower. A feature of Scandinavian churches the bells are housed in a separate building. Inside the bell tower was an original poor man or pauper statue. These statues are alms boxes in the form of carved wooden statues on the outside walls of Lutheran churches in Finland and Sweden. The statues represent poor and often disabled men or veterans begging for alms. The figures usually have a small metal box inside and a slot in the chest for inserting coins. They were used from the 17th to 19th century for collecting money for the poor. There are only a few still found around Finland and Sweden.
Our final stop was at the Ivars farmstead from Närpiö which was built in 1764. The main room with access to the bedroom and the drawing room is located downstairs. The south bedroom, the imperial chamber, and the bedroom with access to the small bedroom are located upstairs. Things were getting busy now as lunchtime was approaching so we didn’t stay here long, and then headed back across the bridge leaving Seurasaari Island behind us.
Planning your visit to Seurasaari Open Air Museum
The museum is located in Meilahti, about 4 km from the Helsinki city centre. Bus number 24, last stop at Seurasaari.
City bikes: Seurasaari 091
Next to the Seurasaari bridge is a limited area of parking space (time limit 4hrs). Next to the sportsfield of Meilahti (about 1,5 km) is a free parking area.
1. TAR-BOAT, Paltamo
2. WATER MILL, Sumiainen
3. GRANARY, Paltamo
4. KURSSI HOUSE, Kuortane
5. IVARS HOUSE, Närpes (in Finnish, Närpiö)
6. CHURCH STABLE, Kaarlela
7. NIEMELÄ TENANT FARM, Konginkangas
8. KARUNA CHURCH, Karuna
9. KAHILUOTO MANOR, Taivassalo
10. THE CHURCH BOATS, Luopioinen and Virrat
11. ALEKSIS KIVI’S COTTAGE, Siuntio
12. STOREHOUSES FROM WESTERN FINLAND
13. PERTINOTSA HOUSE, Suojärvi
14. KAUKOLA CHIMNEYLESS CABINS, Kaukola
15. YUSUPOFF STABLE, Helsinki
16. TELEPHONE BOOTH, Helsinki
17. LITTLE HELSINKI
18. FLORIN SUMMER HOUSE, Helsinki
19. LEPPÄLÄ COTTAGE, Loimaa
20. COUNTRY STORE, Savitaipale
21. SUMMER HOUSE, Elimäki
22. MANOR GARDEN
23. SMITHY, Espoo
24. SAWMILL, Pernaja
25. WINDMILL, Punkalaidun
26. ANTTI FARMSTEAD, Säkylä (Antti farmstead closed 2024), Café Antin Kaffeliiteri
27. ANTTI HILLSIDE STORE-HOUSES AND DRYING BARN, Säkylä and Siikainen
28. WINDMILL, Oripää
29. SELKÄMÄ HOUSE, Pieksämäki
30. CHIMNEYLESS SAUNA, Kangasniemi
31. HALLA HOUSE, Hyrynsalmi
32. HAY CABIN AND STORE HOUSE, Nuorgam
33. BEAR CACHE, Petsamo
34. COWHERD’S COTTAGE, Malax (in Finnish, Maalahti)
35. IISALMI PARSONAGE, Iisalmi (museum shop)
The best time to visit Helsinki
Helsinki, Finland lies within the reach of a humid continental climate, denoted as Dfb under the Köppen climate classification. The geographical position of Helsinki navigates to prolonged and frigid winters accompanied by shorter and moderately warm summers. A particular steadiness in the climatological parameters marks the weather patterns in Helsinki.
The annual flow of temperature lists a low point of -7.4°C (18.7°F) in February, trailing up to a peak of 21.5°C (70.7°F) typically in July. The run of minimum temperatures holds true to a similar pattern, descending to -6.5°C (20.3°F) in January and ambling to 14.2°C (57.6°F) in July. As for precipitation, this northern metropolis sees increased amounts in the warmer months, peaking from 63mm (2.48″) in July to 80mm (3.15″) in August. However, it remains predominantly humid, with an average of 11 rainfall days in May and 20 during December.
Snow in Helsinki is almost a constant companion during the winter months, wherein snowfall measures from 140mm (5.51″) in March to 230mm (9.06″) in February. Sea temperatures remain in a rather cold range throughout the year, pinpointing lowest at 1°C (33.8°F) from January to March and hitting high at a cool 16°C (60.8°F) in August. The earth’s axial tilt decides daylight hours, presenting the shortest days of 6 hours in December and January, and the longest ones of 18 hours in June.
The best time to visit Helsinki
Even though weather permanence takes up the routine in Helsinki, the city’s enthralling charm is best experienced during the summer months. With temperatures rising to a comfortable 21.5°C (70.7°F) high in July and 13.1°C (55.6°F) low in August, the warmer months from June to August also bestow the city with the longest daylight hours. The highest sea temperatures, albeit still cold, can be experienced in August at around 16°C (60.8°F), making these months perfect for embracing outdoor activities and enjoying the archipelago’s scenic beauty.
The worst time to visit Helsinki
The period from November to March witnesses the harshest weather conditions in Helsinki. Not only do temperatures stoop low to -1.3°C (29.7°F) and -4.5°C (23.9°F) in December, but the city also faces heavy snowfall with measurements spiking up to 210mm (8.27″) in January. The icy Baltic Sea also remains at its coldest, oscillating from 1°C (33.8°F) to 3°C (37.4°F). This period also renders shorter daylight hours, diminishing further to 6 hours in December, accompanied by the least amount of sunshine.
Getting around Helsinki
Helsinki has an excellent public transport system (HSL) comprising bus, tram, metro, commuter train and ferry services. With a single ticket you can hop aboard trams, buses, the metro and even the municipal ferry to Suomenlinna. You can even change from one mode of transport to another as long as your ticket is still valid. Single tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and other HSL sales points.
A day ticket is handy if you plan to make several journeys during one day or several days. You can buy a ticket for 1–13 days. Day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines and sales points in Helsinki Central Station. Other sales points include R-kiosks and many shops. One-day tickets (24 hours) can be purchased also from HSL ticket machines; these tickets are printed out and valid immediately upon payment.
The HSL public transport region is divided into four zones identified by the letters A, B, C and D starting from the city centre. Purchase a ticket for all the zones in which you plan to travel. If you plan to travel in zones A, B and C, you will need an AB, BC or ABC ticket, as there are no one-zone tickets for zones A, B and C. The online Journey Planner notifies which ticket you need together with the search results.
Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on public transportation depending on their card within zones A/ B or A/B/C.
Walking
Helsinki is a compact city that is easy to explore on foot, as most of the sights are within walking distance. Even in the busy city centre, you are never far away from green areas and the sea.
By bike
Cycling is a fast and easy way of getting around Helsinki. A popular route is the Baana pedestrian and cycling corridor that runs through the centre of Helsinki along a stretch of disused railway line. Baana is part of an impressive 1200-kilometre network of bike paths in Helsinki that makes it easy to get from the Keskuspuisto “Central Park” to the north to the ferry terminals to the south, and from the bustling city centre to the quiet fields and forests in the surrounding countryside – even to the islands of the archipelago.
City bikes
City bikes are a popular and convenient way of getting around the city in summertime. In 2023, there were no less than 4 600 yellow city bikes available in Helsinki and Espoo. The city bike season will continue until the end of October.
By tram
Trams are a convenient way of getting around the city centre. Tram 2 is the traditional sightseeing route, as it passes many points of interest along the way. You can also change into tram 3 at Eläintarha or Auroran sairaala stop and return to the city centre. Other tram routes that are good for sightseeing include 4, which passes many architectural gems, and 6, which is perfect if you are interested in design. Carry a route map with you to help locate all the stops and points of interest.
Single tickets and day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and many other sales points cannot be purchased from the driver on trams. Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on all trams.
By metro
Helsinki’s metro network operates from the city centre to Espoo (M1 Kivenlahti/M2 Tapiola) and East Helsinki (M1 Vuosaari/M2 Mellunmäki). To travel from end to end (Kivenlahti to Mellunmäki, the world’s northernmost metro station) you will need an ABC ticket, and the journey takes about 49 minutes. The metro is also a convenient way to get out of the busy city centre and into nature.
Single tickets and day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and many other sales points throughout the city. Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on the metro.
By train
Helsinki Region Transport (HSL) operates commuter train services throughout the metropolitan area. Commuter trains depart from and arrive at Helsinki Central Station. Commuter trains are a convenient way to get to Pasila, for example, where Hartwall Arena and the Messukeskus Expo and Convention Centre are located. You can also get to the tranquillity of Rhododendron Park (Alppiruusupuisto) in the Haaga district very quickly by commuter train (A, E, U or P).
Single tickets and day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and many other sales pointsThis link opens in a new browser tab. throughout the city. Tickets cannot be purchased onboard commuter trains. Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on all commuter trains.
Trains to the airport
Commuter trains I and P are a fast and convenient way of travelling between the city centre and the airport. The journey takes approximately 30 minutes. From the train station at Helsinki Airport, you can walk directly to your terminal without having to go outside. To get to or from the airport, you will need an ABC ticket.
Eating out for vegans in Helsinki
The range of vegan food in Helsinki’s eateries is impressive and expanding all the time. Numerous completely vegan restaurants and cafés can be found throughout the city, making it easy and convenient for those who want to enjoy vegan food without having to ask and check first.
Brindavan & Bhajan Café
Brindavan & Bhajan Café serves a generous buffet that invites you to savour an Indian-inspired lunch. Choose from a light and fresh selection of salads and spreads, or you can enjoy a hearty lunch with baked potatoes and stews – and everything in between! The price is determined by weight. The flavours vary from mild to fiery, so there is something for everyone in the wide selection.
Kumpulantie 1, Vallila
Bun2Bun hamburgers
That’s right, 100% vegan hamburgers! Bun2Bun has served only vegan burgers since 2018, resulting in a veritable stampede of customers. The restaurant is lcocated on Vaasankatu, where the aforementioned vegan boom began in Helsinki. In addition to the classics, the menu includes spicier originals and specials.
Vaasankatu 13, Kallio
Junk y Vegan
Describing itself unashamedly as a “junk food restaurant”, Junk y Vegan opened near Helsinki Central Station in 2021. It got its inspiration from the unique Finnish phenomenon of “chips and beer vegans”, which encourages people to enjoy good vegan food without worrying about how healthy it is. In addition to burgers, the bar restaurant also serves smaller portions, flatbreads, bowls and a variety of sweets.
Postikuja 2, Kluuvi
Rakastan
Rakastan is an absolute must for visitors in particular, as this café in the heart of the city serves vegan versions of a traditional Finnish delicacy, Karelian pies, filled with potatoes or barley. On top of the pies, you can choose “egg butter”, a favourite among Finns, fish roe and onion in the Swedish style, or pickles with syrup in the Slavic style. The café also serves soup lunches and pastries, and on weekend evenings you can enjoy Finnish tapas with wine. The milieu is beautiful and exudes history.
Mannerheimintie 13B, Etu-Töölö
Magu
Favouring seasonal ingredients and local food, Magu is a laid-back fine dining restaurant that invites everyone to try its exquisite cuisine. There is an extensive tasting menu and a smaller set menu, as well as a wine menu paired with both. The vegan dishes combine influences from around the world.
Korkeavuorenkatu 27
Round
These Americana-inspired cafés in the Punavuori and Kallio districts serve delicious vegan donuts with a variety of fillings. The Round café in Punavuori has the feel of a traditional diner, while the Round café in Kallio is more artisanal. In September 2022, Round announced that it was expanding its offerings to include bagels and breakfasts.
Kaivokatu 1, Kluuvi
Iso Roobertinkatu 16, Punavuori
Helsinginkatu 15, Kallio
Thai Vegan Kitchen and Peace Kitchen
Thai Vegan Kitchen, known originally for its legendary street food, has successfully maintained this spirit in its restaurant and positively exudes a desire to promote the cause of vegan food. In addition to the daily specials, you can enjoy a wide and varied selection of traditional Thai delicacies, as well as samples from other East Asian cuisines. Here you can familiarise yourself with a versatile selection of vegetable proteins, and the flavouring of the dishes is really skilful. Its sister restaurant Peace Kitchen in Punavuori specialises in noodles!
Where to stay in Helsinki
1. Mid Range: Hotel Finn
Directly across the street from Stockmann Department Store, this hotel is 5 minutes’ walk from Helsinki Central Station. It offers free Wi-Fi, along with basic and functional rooms with local artist’s works.
Cable TV and private bathrooms with a shower can be found in all rooms at Hotel Finn.
A variety of restaurants, cafés and bars are located in the area surrounding Finn Hotel.
2. Luxury – Hotel Kämp
Established in 1887 as Finland’s grand hôtel, Hotel Kämp is located in the heart of Helsinki opposite the beautiful Esplanade park. The hotel features 179 spacious rooms, 15 of which are luxurious suites.
The spacious rooms combine historical elegance with high-quality facilities. All rooms feature comfortable beds, marble bathrooms and Chromecast-streaming systems. Guests can order in-room dining and enjoy the lovely view over the park, the city or the inner courtyard. Access to the exquisite Upper Lounge is included for guests staying in the Executive rooms and the Suites.
3. Budget – Senate Hotel
Featuring a terrace, Senate Hotel is located in the center of Helsinki, 1.5 miles from Uunisaaren Beach. This 2-star hotel offers a shared kitchen, a concierge service and free WiFi. The hotel features family rooms.
At the hotel, every room has a desk, a flat-screen TV, a shared bathroom, bed linen and towels. Rooms have a coffee machine, while some rooms will provide you with a patio and others also provide guests with city views. All guest rooms will provide guests with a closet and an electric tea pot.
More to Explore
