Suomenlinna or Sveaborg is a sea fortress, which was built gradually from 1748 onwards on a group of eight islands belonging to the district of Helsinki. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and also a suburb of Helsinki with around 800 residents.
We had spent the morning walking around the streets of Helsinki and now it was early afternoon and the forecasted inclement weather had not arrived. So, after a quick conflab, we decided to head down to another of Helsinki’s waterfronts where the boats for Suomenlinna departed.
We were not put off our venture by the accordion player at the pier and were even more delighted to find that the all-day tickets we had bought at the metro station covered our boat trip out to Suomenlinna.
Begun by the Swedish in 1748, when Finland was an eastern Swedish territory, Suomenlinna Fortress was considered vital in terms of defence, especially with Sweden’s declining power and in an atmosphere of increased Russian imperialism. Named Sveaborg in 1750, Suomenlinna Fortress was also known as ‘Viapori’ – the Finnish translation – until 1918.
Having avoided military engagement in the 18th century, the next century saw Suomenlinna Fortress become the subject of an enduring Russian attack in the Russo-Finnish War, also known as the ‘War of Finland’ (1808-1809). After a three-month siege, the Suomenlinna Fortress fell to the Russians.
The Russians would go on to expand and garrison the Suomenlinna Fortress, yet over time, large parts of it fell into disrepair. Renovations were undertaken as the Crimean War (1853–1856) approached, but the Suomenlinna Fortress would go on to suffer significant damage during a two-day Anglo-French bombardment in this conflict but remained in Russian hands.
In 1906, the Suomenlinna Fortress was the site of the Viapori rebellion, a short-lived military revolt. Then, during World War One the fortress defended St Petersburg as part of the Peter the Great Fortress. Before the war ended on 6 December 1917, Finland declared independence from Russia.
Suomenlinna Fortress has been under the control of the Finnish government since 1918 and outside military control since 1973.
Suomenlinna is about 4km from the harbour in Helsinki, which takes about 20 minutes and passes by the city’s large Ferris wheel, loading docks for freighters and ferries and several small islands.
Once we reached the island, we immediately headed for the visitor centre which is right next to the dock to pick up a leaflet and map. We were pleased to find out that there was not an entry fee for Suomenlinna.
The map was very handy as it showed the best route through the islands to see the main sights. So, we set off following the cobbled streets. On the islands there are several restaurants and cafes, many of which are quaint are not too expensive – so we hadn’t got far before we decided to stop at one of the small cafes for a coffee and a cake.
Feeling better after having some refreshments, we continued our exploration of Suomenlinna. One of the main features is the Suomenlinna Church. It was built in 1854 as an Eastern Orthodox garrison church for the Russian troops stationed at the Suomenlinna sea fortress. Standing proud it was a sight to see, and I loved the use of cannon and massive anchor chains to create a fence around the base of the church.
It was lovely to walk around the streets with their cobbled thoroughfares and quaint buildings, many made from bricks and local stone. Another pleasant aspect is the fact that there are virtually zero vehicles on the islands. We only saw one car and one motorbike during our visit. The only other motorised vehicles we saw were golf carts driven by facilities staff. It reminded us of Mackinaw Island in Michigan.
We eventually reached Suomenlinna’s main museum. There are several small museums here on the islands, most of which have a small fee to enter. At the main museum, there is a café, and you can also sign up for guided tours of Suomenlinna. We opted to continue under our own steam.
Across from the museum was the main fortress which was accessible by a foot bridge crossing a narrow inlet. The walls of the fortress are made from granite and use the natural features of the islands. This is a common feature of Suomenlinna, where the architecture employs the rolling landscape as part of its design.
We crossed the bridge and passed through a portal in the Great Courtyard. Upon its completion in the 1760s, the Great Courtyard, designed by Augustin Ehrensvärd, served as the main square and administrative centre of the fortress. The houses surrounding the courtyard included the fortress commandant’s house and the main guard house. In the middle of the square, there is the tomb of Augustin Ehrensvärd. The memorial was designed by King Gustav III of Sweden together with Augustin’s son Carl August Ehrensvärd and Johan Tobias Sergel.
We wound our way through the narrow streets which led us towards the sea. By now the weather had improved, well at least the sun was out, although it was very blustery and not too warm. It was one of those days for blowing away the cobwebs, which is just what we needed after spending a stressful couple of weeks.
There was a little bit of a beach, mainly filled with rocks, with steps leading down. It was too good to resist going down. The sun was glistening off the sea and the wind was creating white caps on the waves. Just about perfect conditions!
This was the very tip of the fortress and where the heaviest of Suomenlinna’s fortifications were to be found. Along this section of the island were several large cannons, rusted by exposure to the elements, pointing seawards. Much of this artillery was mounted on rails so they could be moved to point in the direction of incoming threats. They are much too heavy to be moved by people alone. On this part of the island, there were many hummocks, both natural and man-made that had been dug into to form storage for munitions. It was unworldly.
Around the headland, we found another beach, which was simply a rocky shelf of granite. There were a few tide pools. A family of gulls had made this their temporary home, three fledglings rested on the rocks and occasionally got up to stretch their forming wings, whilst their parents looked on with one eye out for any danger. We found a suitable rock to perch ourselves for a few minutes to soak up the atmosphere.
Our journey continued around the fortifications for a few minutes before we exited them through the King’s Gate.
The King’s Gate is the iconic symbol of Suomenlinna. It was built in 1753–54 as the entrance gateway to the fortress. The gate was built on the site where the ship carrying King Adolf Frederick of Sweden, was anchored while he inspected the construction of the fortress in 1752.
The facade of the two-storey King’s Gate is concave, and the gate, framed with marble stones, is made with rustic masonry. In the 1770s the gate was transformed into a double drawbridge. A quay and wide stairs, constructed from limestone excavated from a site near Stockholm, were built in front of the drawbridge.
We reached the end of the trail and began to make our way back to the dock to catch the ferry back to the mainland. We’d just missed a boat leaving, which gave us time to head into the small supermarket by the pier and get some tasty cakes. As we sat eating the cakes, we became a target for the local sparrows who had no fear of people. One flew in and pecked Karen’s hand. It was a small but scary bird!
Planning your visit to Suomenlinna
Suomenlinna is accessible only by water. A ferry service runs from the Market Square (Kauppatori) to Suomenlinna throughout the year. During summer and autumn, a water bus service to Suomenlinna is also available. The guest harbour in the middle of Suomenlinna caters to visitors arriving by their own boats.
You can find the timetables in Suomenlinna online guide. Click here to view the timetables in Suomenlinna Guide.
The trip to Suomenlinna takes 15–20 minutes and offers magnificent views of Helsinki and the surroundings from the sea. During the cold winter months, the trip through the ice-covered waters is a unique experience.
Map of Suomenlinna
The best time to visit Helsinki
Helsinki, Finland lies within the reach of a humid continental climate, denoted as Dfb under the Köppen climate classification. The geographical position of Helsinki navigates to prolonged and frigid winters accompanied by shorter and moderately warm summers. A particular steadiness in the climatological parameters marks the weather patterns in Helsinki.
The annual flow of temperature lists a low point of -7.4°C (18.7°F) in February, trailing up to a peak of 21.5°C (70.7°F) typically in July. The run of minimum temperatures holds true to a similar pattern, descending to -6.5°C (20.3°F) in January and ambling to 14.2°C (57.6°F) in July. As for precipitation, this northern metropolis sees increased amounts in the warmer months, peaking from 63mm (2.48″) in July to 80mm (3.15″) in August. However, it remains predominantly humid, with an average of 11 rainfall days in May and 20 during December.
Snow in Helsinki is almost a constant companion during the winter months, wherein snowfall measures from 140mm (5.51″) in March to 230mm (9.06″) in February. Sea temperatures remain in a rather cold range throughout the year, pinpointing lowest at 1°C (33.8°F) from January to March and hitting high at a cool 16°C (60.8°F) in August. The earth’s axial tilt decides daylight hours, presenting the shortest days of 6 hours in December and January, and the longest ones of 18 hours in June.
The best time to visit Helsinki
Even though weather permanence takes up the routine in Helsinki, the city’s enthralling charm is best experienced during the summer months. With temperatures rising to a comfortable 21.5°C (70.7°F) high in July and 13.1°C (55.6°F) low in August, the warmer months from June to August also bestow the city with the longest daylight hours. The highest sea temperatures, albeit still cold, can be experienced in August at around 16°C (60.8°F), making these months perfect for embracing outdoor activities and enjoying the archipelago’s scenic beauty.
The worst time to visit Helsinki
The period from November to March witnesses the harshest weather conditions in Helsinki. Not only do temperatures stoop low to -1.3°C (29.7°F) and -4.5°C (23.9°F) in December, but the city also faces heavy snowfall with measurements spiking up to 210mm (8.27″) in January. The icy Baltic Sea also remains at its coldest, oscillating from 1°C (33.8°F) to 3°C (37.4°F). This period also renders shorter daylight hours, diminishing further to 6 hours in December, accompanied by the least amount of sunshine.
Getting around Helsinki
Helsinki has an excellent public transport system (HSL) comprising bus, tram, metro, commuter train and ferry services. With a single ticket you can hop aboard trams, buses, the metro and even the municipal ferry to Suomenlinna. You can even change from one mode of transport to another as long as your ticket is still valid. Single tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and other HSL sales points.
A day ticket is handy if you plan to make several journeys during one day or several days. You can buy a ticket for 1–13 days. Day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines and sales points in Helsinki Central Station. Other sales points include R-kiosks and many shops. One-day tickets (24 hours) can be purchased also from HSL ticket machines; these tickets are printed out and valid immediately upon payment.
The HSL public transport region is divided into four zones identified by the letters A, B, C and D starting from the city centre. Purchase a ticket for all the zones in which you plan to travel. If you plan to travel in zones A, B and C, you will need an AB, BC or ABC ticket, as there are no one-zone tickets for zones A, B and C. The online Journey Planner notifies which ticket you need together with the search results.
Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on public transportation depending on their card within zones A/ B or A/B/C.
Walking
Helsinki is a compact city that is easy to explore on foot, as most of the sights are within walking distance. Even in the busy city centre, you are never far away from green areas and the sea.
By bike
Cycling is a fast and easy way of getting around Helsinki. A popular route is the Baana pedestrian and cycling corridor that runs through the centre of Helsinki along a stretch of disused railway line. Baana is part of an impressive 1200-kilometre network of bike paths in Helsinki that makes it easy to get from the Keskuspuisto “Central Park” to the north to the ferry terminals to the south, and from the bustling city centre to the quiet fields and forests in the surrounding countryside – even to the islands of the archipelago.
City bikes
City bikes are a popular and convenient way of getting around the city in summertime. In 2023, there were no less than 4 600 yellow city bikes available in Helsinki and Espoo. The city bike season will continue until the end of October.
By tram
Trams are a convenient way of getting around the city centre. Tram 2 is the traditional sightseeing route, as it passes many points of interest along the way. You can also change into tram 3 at Eläintarha or Auroran sairaala stop and return to the city centre. Other tram routes that are good for sightseeing include 4, which passes many architectural gems, and 6, which is perfect if you are interested in design. Carry a route map with you to help locate all the stops and points of interest.
Single tickets and day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and many other sales points cannot be purchased from the driver on trams. Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on all trams.
By metro
Helsinki’s metro network operates from the city centre to Espoo (M1 Kivenlahti/M2 Tapiola) and East Helsinki (M1 Vuosaari/M2 Mellunmäki). To travel from end to end (Kivenlahti to Mellunmäki, the world’s northernmost metro station) you will need an ABC ticket, and the journey takes about 49 minutes. The metro is also a convenient way to get out of the busy city centre and into nature.
Single tickets and day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and many other sales points throughout the city. Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on the metro.
By train
Helsinki Region Transport (HSL) operates commuter train services throughout the metropolitan area. Commuter trains depart from and arrive at Helsinki Central Station. Commuter trains are a convenient way to get to Pasila, for example, where Hartwall Arena and the Messukeskus Expo and Convention Centre are located. You can also get to the tranquillity of Rhododendron Park (Alppiruusupuisto) in the Haaga district very quickly by commuter train (A, E, U or P).
Single tickets and day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and many other sales pointsThis link opens in a new browser tab. throughout the city. Tickets cannot be purchased onboard commuter trains. Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on all commuter trains.
Trains to the airport
Commuter trains I and P are a fast and convenient way of travelling between the city centre and the airport. The journey takes approximately 30 minutes. From the train station at Helsinki Airport, you can walk directly to your terminal without having to go outside. To get to or from the airport, you will need an ABC ticket.
Eating out for vegans in Helsinki
The range of vegan food in Helsinki’s eateries is impressive and expanding all the time. Numerous completely vegan restaurants and cafés can be found throughout the city, making it easy and convenient for those who want to enjoy vegan food without having to ask and check first.
Brindavan & Bhajan Café
Brindavan & Bhajan Café serves a generous buffet that invites you to savour an Indian-inspired lunch. Choose from a light and fresh selection of salads and spreads, or you can enjoy a hearty lunch with baked potatoes and stews – and everything in between! The price is determined by weight. The flavours vary from mild to fiery, so there is something for everyone in the wide selection.
Kumpulantie 1, Vallila
Bun2Bun hamburgers
That’s right, 100% vegan hamburgers! Bun2Bun has served only vegan burgers since 2018, resulting in a veritable stampede of customers. The restaurant is lcocated on Vaasankatu, where the aforementioned vegan boom began in Helsinki. In addition to the classics, the menu includes spicier originals and specials.
Vaasankatu 13, Kallio
Junk y Vegan
Describing itself unashamedly as a “junk food restaurant”, Junk y Vegan opened near Helsinki Central Station in 2021. It got its inspiration from the unique Finnish phenomenon of “chips and beer vegans”, which encourages people to enjoy good vegan food without worrying about how healthy it is. In addition to burgers, the bar restaurant also serves smaller portions, flatbreads, bowls and a variety of sweets.
Postikuja 2, Kluuvi
Rakastan
Rakastan is an absolute must for visitors in particular, as this café in the heart of the city serves vegan versions of a traditional Finnish delicacy, Karelian pies, filled with potatoes or barley. On top of the pies, you can choose “egg butter”, a favourite among Finns, fish roe and onion in the Swedish style, or pickles with syrup in the Slavic style. The café also serves soup lunches and pastries, and on weekend evenings you can enjoy Finnish tapas with wine. The milieu is beautiful and exudes history.
Mannerheimintie 13B, Etu-Töölö
Magu
Favouring seasonal ingredients and local food, Magu is a laid-back fine dining restaurant that invites everyone to try its exquisite cuisine. There is an extensive tasting menu and a smaller set menu, as well as a wine menu paired with both. The vegan dishes combine influences from around the world.
Korkeavuorenkatu 27
Round
These Americana-inspired cafés in the Punavuori and Kallio districts serve delicious vegan donuts with a variety of fillings. The Round café in Punavuori has the feel of a traditional diner, while the Round café in Kallio is more artisanal. In September 2022, Round announced that it was expanding its offerings to include bagels and breakfasts.
Kaivokatu 1, Kluuvi
Iso Roobertinkatu 16, Punavuori
Helsinginkatu 15, Kallio
Thai Vegan Kitchen and Peace Kitchen
Thai Vegan Kitchen, known originally for its legendary street food, has successfully maintained this spirit in its restaurant and positively exudes a desire to promote the cause of vegan food. In addition to the daily specials, you can enjoy a wide and varied selection of traditional Thai delicacies, as well as samples from other East Asian cuisines. Here you can familiarise yourself with a versatile selection of vegetable proteins, and the flavouring of the dishes is really skilful. Its sister restaurant Peace Kitchen in Punavuori specialises in noodles!
Where to stay in Helsinki
1. Mid Range: Hotel Finn
Directly across the street from Stockmann Department Store, this hotel is a 5 minute walk from Helsinki Central Station. It offers free Wi-Fi, along with basic and functional rooms with local artist’s works.
Cable TV and private bathrooms with a shower can be found in all rooms at Hotel Finn.
A variety of restaurants, cafés and bars are located in the area surrounding Finn Hotel.
2. Luxury – Hotel Kämp
Established in 1887 as Finland’s grand hôtel, Hotel Kämp is located in the heart of Helsinki opposite the beautiful Esplanade park. The hotel features 179 spacious rooms, 15 of which are luxurious suites.
The spacious rooms combine historical elegance with high-quality facilities. All rooms feature comfortable beds, marble bathrooms and Chromecast-streaming systems. Guests can order in-room dining and enjoy the lovely view over the park, the city or the inner courtyard. Access to the exquisite Upper Lounge is included for guests staying in the Executive rooms and the Suites.
3. Budget – Senate Hotel
Featuring a terrace, Senate Hotel is located in the center of Helsinki, 1.5 miles from Uunisaaren Beach. This 2-star hotel offers a shared kitchen, a concierge service and free WiFi. The hotel features family rooms.
At the hotel, every room has a desk, a flat-screen TV, a shared bathroom, bed linen and towels. Rooms have a coffee machine, while some rooms will provide you with a patio and others also provide guests with city views. All guest rooms will provide guests with a closet and an electric tea pot.