Not many people know this, but although the whole area is known as Halong Bay, there are in fact 3 different bays: Halong Bay, Bai Tu Long Bay and Lan Ha Bay. All three bays have virtually indistinguishable karst landscapes.
One of the things we were most looking forward to during our visit to Vietnam was a 3 day/2 night cruise in Bai Tu Long Bay – a neighbour of the more famous Ha Long Bay.
About Ha Long Bay
Ha Long Bay, Vietnamese Vinh Ha Long (“Where the Dragon Descends to the Sea”), bay on the northwest coast of the Gulf of Tonkin, near the city of Ha Long (Hong Gai), Quang Ninh province, northern Vietnam. Situated 102 miles (164 km) southeast of Hanoi, the 580-square-mile (1,500-square-km) area contains some 3,000 rocky and earthen islands, typically in the form of jagged limestone pillars jutting out from the sea, and several caves and grottoes, all of which blended to produce an exotic and picturesque seascape. A diverse population of marine and land mammals, reptiles, fish, and birds are found in the waters and tropical forests. It is listed on the register of UNESCO World Heritage sites.
There are two similar legends about the origin of the bay, which are reflected in its name. The first legend asserts that a dragon stomped on the earth with such force that mountains crumbled, forming large valleys that soon filled with water; only the peaks of mountains—now the rocky islands of Ha Long Bay—remained above the surface. The alternate folklore tells of a dragon whose large tail tore up the earth, creating valleys and crevices that became flooded when the beast jumped into the nearby water. Both versions lent themselves to the modern-day legend of Tarasque, a dragon-like marine creature believed to inhabit the bay.
Bai Tu Long Bay
Our boat tour would take us to Bai Tu Long Bay, located east of Ha Long Bay and far from all the tourist sites. Bai Tu Long Bay is a lesser-known alternative to Halong.
The limestone karst landscape at Bai Tu Long Bay is virtually indistinguishable from Ha Long and Bai Tu Long Bays. The benefit of coming here is that it is probably the least developed of the three bays and sees the least number of tourists.
Our Tour
We were collected from our hotel and transported, along with our fellow passengers towards Ha Long Bay. Our guide for the day was Man (pronounced ‘mon’). Along the way, we stopped at a shop that sells pearl jewellery made from pearls harvested in the area.
Leaving the pearl shop, we grabbed a smoothie and jumped back onto the bus for the remaining 20-minute drive to the harbour at Ha Long. We were not due to board for another hour or so which meant hanging around in a waiting area, which soon passed and in no time, we were heading out on a tender to our Swan Cruise ship. It was a relatively small boat with 18 cabins on three decks and one dining area. We had a room right on the stern of the boat on the second deck, which meant we were one of four cabins with a balcony. The room was spacious with a huge bathroom, at least for a boat with a jacuzzi bath.
After checking out our room it was time to head to the dining room for lunch which was served as we cruised out into the bay.
Our tour took us to Bai Tu Long Bay, north of Ha Long Bay, where there are virtually no day cruises, so it is much quieter and has very similar islands.
In the afternoon we climbed aboard the small tender and headed out to a small dock area. Here we clambered into two-person sit-on kayaks and followed Man in his kayak around the islands. It was stunning, even though the visibility was not great due to the misty conditions. After about 20 minutes we pulled up on a small beach. Karen was still feeling a bit delicate from the sickness she picked up in Hanoi, so she didn’t fancy swimming, but I decided to brave the waters. It was not too cold.
We stayed on the beach for a bit before paddling back to the jetty. From there it was back on the tender to the Swan Cruise boat.
By now it was late afternoon, so after a quick shower we headed up to the open top deck for an afternoon drink to watch the sun go down. The misty conditions did not make for the greatest sunset experience.
One of the after-dinner options was to try and catch squid on a line from over the side of the boat. We didn’t manage to catch any.
Day Two
The day’s first order was a short Tai Chi class on the upper deck led by Man. There was quite a good turnout considering it was early morning and the weather was a little grey and damp. We worked through five different sequences before pulling them all together for a final run-through. The only disconcerting thing was when the boat started to cruise as we were doing the moves.
The routine for the day was for the Swan Cruise ship to return to Ha Long to drop off those who were only staying one night and return with some new passengers. Those of us staying for the two nights would be transferred to a different boat for some activities, including kayaking and visiting a floating village.
Karen was still under the weather so she decided to stay aboard the Swan Cruise boat, while the rest of us two-day visitors, got onboard the tender and headed across to another boat which would be taking us around the next few hours.
I was not up for kayaking, so I stayed on board with another couple from the Netherlands while the others set off on the kayaks. About an hour later they came back, and we started to sail again. As we cruised, we had lunch, which was very tasty and plentiful.
After lunch, we pulled up to the jetty and transferred onto some small boats that were rowed by ladies which took us through a sheltered bay among the limestone karst islands.
Dating back thousands of years, Halong Bay has been populated by small local communities living on floating villages tucked away in between the karst, sunken mountains.
Originally built as a place for returning fishermen to sell their fresh catch from the night before, the Halong Bay floating villages became residential quite quickly. People lived, ate, slept, worked, partied, and even went to school in these tiny, self-sufficient floating villages.
But of late things have changed. The government sent out a directive that would force the residents to move inland and leave their floating homes behind.
At first, the people in the village were indignant, refusing to leave behind the homes- the community that they had spent generations to build. But the government’s standpoint was firm: the people’s quality of life, and particularly the children’s access to education would improve vastly if they moved inland. Pollution and environmental protection were also a big factor.
Now, the Halong Bay floating villages are preserved intact, just the way they were when the residents still lived here full time.
Although people do not now live here full time, the locals still carry out a lot of activities and work tasks here, such as fishing, net weaving, and pearl processing.
We were taken through one of these floating villages and saw the people at work, primarily growing clams and harvesting pearls. At the end of our boat journey, we were taken to see a demonstration of seeding the clams and of course, taken into a store selling pearl jewellery.
It was now time to head back to the Swan Cruise ship. While we’d been away Karen had been all the way back to Ha Long port and had been joined by a new group of twenty or so people.
The routine for the rest of the day was the same as the day before with pre-dinner drinks on the deck followed by dinner.
Day Three
Like the day before we got up early so, we could do Tai Chi on the top deck. This time it was being led by our new guide Mike, who had replaced Man the day before when he returned to Hanoi. Mike’s class was better than the last session, with very clear explanations as to what we were doing.
Straight after Tai Chi, we all went down to breakfast. Karen was feeling better, but still under the weather. After breakfast, it was a case of clearing out our rooms and then going on a short hike to visit some caves on one of the islands.
The caves were about 75 metres up the side of one of the limestone karsts via some very steep steps, which some people struggled with a bit. Once inside the caves, the ground was less slippery. There were a few nice formations, including stalactites, flowstones and columns. Infuriatingly some people insisted on sitting on and touching these formations, ignorant that these actions could damage them. I wish the guides would be more active in instructing their clients! After the caves, we climbed back down the steps and headed to the little man-made beach around the corner, which was very cute, for a few minutes. At this time the gloomy weather that had been with us for the last day or so perked up and we got to see glimmers of the sun once more which greatly improved our visibility of the islands in the bay.
Soon it was time to return to the Swan Cruise ship and set sail back to Ha Long harbour.
Once back in Ha Long, we climbed aboard our bus for the three-hour trip back to Hanoi.
The best time to visit Ha Long Bay
Situated in Vietnam, Ha Long sees a predominantly humid subtropical climate with a dry winter (Cwa), as classified by the Köppen climate classification system. Ha Long’s climate demonstrates variations across the year in temperature, humidity, sunlight, and rainfall. The city experiences a high average temperature range from 13.7°C (56.7°F) to 34.1°C (93.4°F), and a relative humidity fluctuating between 71% and 83% throughout the year.
Rainfall is a key feature of Ha Long’s climate. The total rainfall varies significantly from 15mm (0.59″) to 317mm (12.48″) over a year. The region’s wettest month is August, with an average rainfall of 317mm (12.48″), while February registers the least amount of rainfall at 15mm (0.59″). Concurrently, the rainy days range from 12.8 to 28.3 days per month, with the maximum rainy days in July and the minimum in February. This displays a clear variation in the annual pattern of precipitation.
The best time to visit Ha Long
Translating the numbers into travel advice, the ideal time for a visit to this tropical destination would occur within the months of February to April. These months see a decrease in rainfall from 92mm (3.62″) in January to 30mm (1.18″) in March, providing relatively dry conditions ideal for outdoor activities. Along with lower rainfall, the temperature remains in a comfortable range between 20°C (68°F) to 28°C (82.4°F). Moreover, abundant sunshine hours amounting to 7 hours per day, coupled with longer daylight duration from 11.6 hours to 12.1 hours, offer plenty of opportunities to soak in the scenic beauty.
The worst time to visit Ha Long
The worst time to visit Ha Long is during the rainy season, from July to September, when the city encounters the highest rainfall of the year – from 255mm (10.04″) to 317mm (12.48″) over approximately 28.3 to 26.8 days. High humidity levels, peaking at 83%, paired with heavy rainfall can turn the city into a less enjoyable destination for travellers.
Planning your visit to Ha Long Bay
Distance from Noi Bai Airport (HAN) to Halong Bay:
Noi Bai International Airport is located approximately 30 km (19 miles) northwest of Hanoi’s city centre and around 160 km from Halong Bay. This airport is the most popular option for international travellers heading to Halong Bay. You can get to Halong Bay directly from Noi Bai Airport by taking a quick shuttle bus or seaplane transfer. However, there are other options that may be more convenient for foreign visitors, such as Van Don International Airport (50 km away from Halong City) and Cat Bi International Airport (44 km away from the city).
Distance from Hanoi city centre to Halong Bay:
The approximate distance between Hanoi city centre and Halong Bay is around 130 km and it takes only around 2,5 hours to get to Halong from Hanoi city centre with the help of the Expressway. So most travellers spend a day exploring Hanoi before travelling to Halong Bay on the next day.
Transport Options:
Local Bus (Coach)
Time: It takes around three hours to travel from Hanoi to Halong Bay by local bus, thanks to the new highway. But it can take longer to go around bus stops to pick up passengers.
Cost: From approximately 120,000 to 250,000 VND/person (One-way trip). For those who travel on a budget, this might be the best option.
Shuttle Bus
Time: Approximately 2.5 hours (including 15 minutes of rest stop)
Cost: The cost of a one-way shuttle bus ticket from the Old Quarter to Halong Centre or Tuan Chau Harbour is from 180,000 to 300,000 VND, depending on the type of shuttle bus and operators.
- From Hanoi to Halong: The bus will pick you up early at around 8 to 9 AM at your hotel in the Old Quarter on request and take you to the cruise center at Tuan Chau Harbour.
- From Halong to Hanoi: After your cruise trip, the shuttle bus will wait outside the cruise center and take you back to Hanoi.
Types of Shuttle Buses for Hanoi to Halong Bay Travel
- Standard Shuttle Buses: These shuttle buses come in various passenger capacities, including 16-seater minivans, 29-to-30-seater buses, 35-seaters, and 45-seaters. They offer a comfortable and budget-friendly travel option.
- Luxury Shuttle Buses: If you prefer a more upscale and private experience, you can opt for luxury shuttle buses. These often include 9-seater Limousines and 19-seater Fuso vehicles equipped with high-end amenities for a premium journey.
- Cruise Company Shuttle Services: Many cruise companies in Halong Bay provide their own shuttle services. These services are designed to conveniently pick up and drop off tourists at specific destinations, ensuring a seamless transition to your cruise adventure.
Private Transfer
Time: Approximately 2.5 hours
Cost:
When hiring a private taxi, prices range from 2,400,000 VND to 5,000,000 VND for a round trip depending on the car capacity (4-seater to 16-seater car).
However, if you opt for Grab car (taxi app), the fare is around 1,600,000 VND to 1,900,000 VND for a one-way trip.
Private car services to Ha Long Bay are an excellent choice for business travel or small group of travellers, including business professionals, families, and groups of friends seeking privacy and comfort during their journey.
You can book this service through travel service providers, or travel agents, or opt for a private taxi.
Additionally, Grab car services offer a convenient and affordable on-demand transportation option. To book a Grab car, you simply need to download the Grab application on your phone and make a reservation when you’re ready to go. This makes it a great choice for those who value flexibility.