The Golden Triangle is where the Mekong River, the border between Thailand and Laos, meets the Ruak River, the border between Thailand and Myanmar. In the past, the Golden Triangle was the world's largest source of drug trafficking.
Not too far from the small Northern town of Mae Sai is a small area known as the Golden Triangle. The Golden Triangle is the area where the borders of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar meet at the confluence of the Ruak and Mekong rivers. Just 9km north of the small town of Chiang Saen, the Golden Triangle Park is a viewpoint where you can look down on the confluence of the two rivers and stare across into Myanmar and Laos (where we will be headed tomorrow). The view was spoilt by the smoky conditions, but it was still nice to have come here. Just above where we had arrived was a small Buddhist temple which we climbed up to have a look around. It was not in the best of conditions, which in my eyes added to its character.
The Opium Museum
Along with Afghanistan in the Golden Crescent, it has been one of the largest opium-producing areas of the world since the 1950s. Most of the world’s heroin came from the Golden Triangle until the early 21st century when Afghanistan became the world’s largest producer. The majority of the region’s opium is now produced in Myanmar and, to a lesser extent, Laos. The Thai government has cracked down heavily on the production of opium and encouraged the hill tribes to grow coffee instead. The Opium Museum, or to give its correct name, The House of Opium, was founded by a local woman with a passion for collecting opium paraphernalia, she turned her extensive collection into a museum when the crackdown on the drug trade made these items hard to find. Come here to see countless tools for planting, harvesting, and consuming opium, including pipes, scales, and scrapers. I wasn’t sure that I would find much of interest here but was pleasantly surprised by the displays on the production of opium and the extensive collection of artefacts. I particularly liked the weights that were used for measuring the opium collected by the farmers by the distributors and the pipes used for smoking opium. As well as the opium collection there was also a display of the various hill tribes, including the Long Neck Karen, or Padaung tribe.
The plight of the Hill Tribes
Originally, our tour included a visit to a Long Neck Karen village, but we had collectively decided, for ethical reasons, that we did not want to go there. Visiting a hill tribe, especially the Padaung tribe, is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Thailand but the are some issues that need to be considered before going on a visit. The Padaung are not indigenous to Thailand, they are originally from Myanmar but left to escape persecution from the government. Sadly, there are few employment opportunities for them, so they have been reduced to being reliant on tourism.
Myanmar, formerly Burma, has a long and troubled history, particularly in its southern states of Karin and Shan, where the local ethnic groups have long fought the government for independence. The states were not considered a part of Burma until the British colonised the region and grouped them as part of the country. The Myanmar government has been particularly ruthless during this, effectively undertaking a process of ethnic cleansing using abhorrent tactics such as rape, pillage, torture and murder. One of the most horrific accounts is that the Burmese military used these people as human minesweepers. This scene is depicted in the movie Rambo. In the movie, Rambo kills the soldiers who are forcing the people into the minefields. Of course, this is fictitious, except for the forcing of people into minefields. No one is there to save them! This has resulted in many people fleeing across the borders of neighbouring countries such as Thailand.
Upon entering Thailand, almost all of the Myanmar refugees are placed into camps along the border of Northwest Thailand and rarely are foreigners or non-profits given access to these camps. An extremely small sub-group of people called the Padaung tribe also fled here. Some of the women in this tribe wear gold rings around their necks as part of their culture to signify beauty. In 1985 Thailand created tourism villages, with the Padaung women being the main tourist attraction. These tourist villages are completely fake and set up merely for tourists. Many people refer to these villages as ‘human zoos’ and they are for the most part. The Thais who own these villages and technically own these people make a hefty profit and do not want them to leave. It costs between $8-$16 to enter these long-neck villages and for Thailand, this is extremely expensive, so the owners are making a huge profit. Many of the women would not wear rings, but if they didn’t, they would not get paid, and young girls are forced down this path. The issue here is that there are health concerns from the wearing of these brass rings, which do not extend the neck but instead compress the chest cavity. A study of Karen women found that women with neck coils had higher blood pressure, lower respiratory function, and decreased circulation to the brain. Some of the women even had compression fractures to the upper back—possibly due to deformation of the muscles and skeleton and demineralization of the spine. Additionally, impaired circulation could result in early atrophy of the central nervous system.
Sadly, those who work in these villages are better off than those in the refugee camps, who have no way of gaining an income and are beholden to non-government agencies providing food and health services. Life in these camps is degrading, and there is little chance of leaving and finding a better life elsewhere.
Phra Chiang Saen Sii Pandin - Golden Buddha image
After the Opium Museum visit, we walked down the road to see Phra Chiang Saen Sii Pandin, a gigantic golden Buddha image seated on a platform shaped like a boat. The boat is perhaps even more dazzling than the Buddha statue itself. Ornately decorated with colourful stained glass, the huge boat sits right on the very edge of the river, glistening proudly in the sun. On the helm of the boat was another Buddha image, this time the smiling “Happy” or “Chinese” Buddha.
Hotei or Pu-Tai is better known as the Laughing Buddha. The person in the laughing Buddha images and statues is ‘Budai,’ an eccentric Zen monk from China who is thought to have lived around 907 to 923 AD during the later Liang dynasty. He was a man of a good and loving character, and some Buddhist traditions considered him the ‘Bodhisattva Maitreya’ or the future Buddha. He was pot-bellied, bald, and had a jolly smile on his face all the time, which earned him the name “laughing Buddha.” People for a long time have believed that rubbing the belly of the statue will bring them good luck, health, wealth, and prosperity.
Wat Pa Sak
Our final stop was just outside Chiang Saen, a few kilometres from the Golden Triangle Park. Built in 1295, Wat Pa Sak, used to be the residence of King Saen Phu. He ordered three hundred teak trees to be planted hence the name Pa Sak (Teak Forest). With ornamental stucco motifs, the temple’s chedi, which is 12.5 metres tall with a base of 8 metres wide, is regarded as being one of the most beautiful examples of Lanna architecture in northern Thailand.
When we arrived here it was getting close to 1the end of the day and the sun was going down, which made for some lovely photos.
Planning your visit to the Golden Triangle
The Golden Triangle/ Chiang Saen District is around 80km northeast of Chiang Rai.
It can be reached by public bus from Chiang Rai or by taxi/car.
We took a tour from Chiang Rai that included other tourist sites such as the White Temple, the Blue Temple and the Black House Museum. These can arranged through your hotel or one of the tourist company offices in the town.
Entry to everything above is free except the House of Opium which costs 80 Baht.
Other places to visit while in Chiang Rai
1. THE WHITE TEMPLE – WAT RONG KHUN
Wat Rong Khun, better known as “the White Temple”, is one of the most recognizable temples in Thailand. was designed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, a famous Thai visual artist. To date the temple is not finished. Eventually there will be nine buildings.
2. BLUE TEMPLE – WAT RONG SUEA TEN
The Blue Temple is immediately recognizable for its brilliant shade of rich sapphire. The temple walls, roof, and surrounding statues are all covered in this gorgeous hue, an unusual decorative choice in a country where most temples are made of gold.
3. BLACK HOUSE (BAAN DAM) MUSEUM
Often referred to as the “Black Temple”, this building is not really a temple at all. It’s actually more like an art museum and studio. Its construction is a blend of traditional Thai architecture with a contemporary and unorthodox flair.
The best time to visit Chiang Rai
Marked by its geographical position in Northern Thailand, the climate in Chiang Rai resonates with the Koppen climate classification of Aw, also referred to as Tropical Wet and Dry or Savanna. The city experiences altering spells of wet and dry spells with a high temperature difference across the year. Monthly average day temperatures range from 27.2°C (81°F) in December to a peak of 34.8°C (94.6°F) in April.
Sharp fluctuations in precipitation levels can be observed over the course of the year. Substantial rainfall initiates in April, peaks during August with 358mm (14.09″) and finally ends around November. The annual dry period begins from December and extends until March, with significantly lower rainfall ranging from 8mm (0.31″) to 28mm (1.1″). These rainfall patterns hence divide the year into clear wet and dry seasons.
The best time to visit Chiang Rai
With regard to preferred weather conditions for visitor comfort, the best time to visit Chiang Rai may be from November to February. During these months, the city experiences a drier climate with an average rainfall between 14mm (0.55″) and 59mm (2.32″). Coupled with moderate temperatures that vary from a high of 27.2°C (81°F) to 30.5°C (86.9°F) and low of 13.5°C (56.3°F) to 21.1°C (70°F), these conditions are ideal for outdoor activities and exploration. With 7 hours of sunshine each day, visitors may fully experience the attractions and natural beauty this region offers.
The worst time to visit Chiang Rai
June to August proves to be the least desirable period to visit Chiang Rai owing to the high humidity levels, ranging from 80% to 84%, and increased rainfall, with an average monthly precipitation of 284mm (11.18″) to 358mm (14.09″). Moreover, temperatures during these months can rise up to 32.1°C (89.8°F). Clearly, the high likelihood of rainfall combined with the heated environment may deter outdoor activities and sightseeing expeditions.
Where to stay in Chiang Rai
1. MID-RANGE – SLEEPY HOUSE CHIANG RAI
Just a 10-minute walk from Clock Tower Chiang Rai and 0.6 miles from Chiang Rai Saturday Night Walking Street, Sleepy House Chiang Rai features accommodations in Chiang Rai, with a garden. The property is around a 16-minute walk from Statue of King Mengrai, 0.9 miles from Wat Pra Sing, and 2.2 miles from Central Plaza. The bed and breakfast provides rooms with air conditioning, free private parking, and free Wifi.
The bed and breakfast offers a flat-screen TV and a private bathroom with a hair dryer, free toiletries, and shower. For added convenience, the property can provide towels and linens for a supplement. The rooms are equipped with heating facilities.
2. LUXURY – MORA BOUTIQUE HOTEL
The Mora Boutique Hotel is a 4-star hotel located right in the center. It’s a very perfect location within walking distance to all the major attractions in Chiang Rai. For example, the famous Saturday Night Walking Street is just 300 meters from the property, the Hill Tribe Museum can be reached within a 5 minutes’ walk and the nightly Bazar is 7 minutes away.
The hotel ambience is completely relaxed and laid-back, and the beautiful Thai-style design, guarantees a feeling of well-being. So, after an exciting day of sightseeing this hotel is the perfect to unwind. If you like, you can treat yourself a massage in the beautiful spa area or enjoy delicious tea and cake at the free afternoon tea on the roof terrace.
3. BUDGET – BAAN JARU
Baan Jaru is located 1640 feet from Clock Tower. It offers air-conditioned rooms with free WiFi and free public parking. The property is equipped with a tour desk and rental bicycles
The property is 2625 feet from Chiang Rai Saturday Night Walking Street.