Sri Lanka: Taking a scenic train ride to Ella
We had risen early in the morning to visit Horton Plains National Park, and it was around lunchtime before we arrived back in Nawara Eliya for our train journey to Ella, a popular tourist destination, especially for those back-packing their way around the country. This was one of the things that I was most looking forward to on our itinerary!
We have always loved train journeys and I was almost wetting myself with excitement as we pulled up to the station. There was a little time before our train arrived so we went into the cafe on the platform to grab some food as we hadn’t left enough time for a proper lunch. Our experiences of trains in recent times, especially the last one we caught in India we had half expected to be hanging around for hours. But no worries this time as the train arrived in the station pretty much on time.
There a number of trains that travel through Nuwara Eliya to Kandy, most of them make many stops and take hours and hours to get there. Our guide had booked us onto the express train which makes the trip in about 2 1/2 hours with only one or two stops which sounded perfect.
We had been booked into the first-class carriage which actually sounds nice and it did have some sniffing and comfortable seats, which were only two people across, and best of all it had airconditioning. Those were the good points the bad points, which for me far outweighed the benefits were that the windows did not open and they were dirty so it detracted from the beautiful scenery and I couldn’t take photos. I was so bummed, in fact, I got a real hump on! This had been something I was really looking forward to and it was ruined! I could have wandered down the carriage and set in the stairwells on the connecting sections between the carriages, risking life and limb. But these were already occupied by younger and more daring folk who would have bounced better than me if they fell out.
Karen, the ever-practical, decided to solve the problem rather than sulk. My only justification is that I am a man. Anyway, after a brief and slick negotiation, she managed to persuade a very generous Sri Lankan family in second-class to squeeze up so we could take their seats. They were simply travelling on the train to see family, a journey they had done many times so they had little interest in the scenery! The benefit of being in second-class was the windows opened and I could take as many unobstructed views as possible. I was finally in seventh heaven and could restrict my bemoaning to the fact that the power and telecom lines on the ugly poles run alongside the train track! Oh, why can’t people think about these things when they make planning decisions?
The journey is glorious as the train runs along the ridge atop the mountains offering spectacular views to the valleys below which we a patchwork of small villages and town, jungle and paddy fields. The two hours of the journey shot past and we finally arrived in Ella, a small tourist town in Central Sri Lanka and popular stopping off point for backpackers and people taking the many hiking trails that leave from here.
We met with our driver and went off to explore. One of the most iconic features of the railway line here is the nine arch bridge. Unfortunately, it lay on the train line heading south of Ella so we had not crossed it on the train. So, as a second-best option, we decided to walk and see the bridge in person. You can wind your way through the village and get to a point where you can get a great place to view the bridge itself. Or if you want, and don’t mind scrambling down a slightly sketchy trail you can climb down to the track. By the railway line, there is a little cafe so we took the opportunity to sit down with a king coconut and enjoy a marvellous view of the nine arch bridge. Finished with our coconut we decided to join the multitude and walk across the bridge, of course keeping a beady eye out for approaching locomotives. It was a somewhat surreal but fulfilling experience.
As we left the nine-arch bridge to find our hotel we could not but help ourselves taking some more pictures including a tuk-tuk being serviced. I had never seen this before I had always assumed they were indestructible.
Having dropped our bags off at the hotel we set out to make the walk to the top of Little Adams peak to catch the sunset. The main climb to the top starts a couple of kilometres outside the town, which any number of local tuk-tuk drivers would only be too happy to take you to. We decided to walk from the town, it is a gentle uphill climb and quite pleasant in the latter part of the day.
The last part of the journey to the top does require trekking up a fairly steep, narrow trail that is not always in the best of conditions. It is a fairly easy climb for most. It took us about 15 minutes to make the final climb to the summit.
The journey to the top was well worth the effort as we joined many other fellow travellers enjoying the spectacular views across the vast Ella Gap as the sun descended behind the mountains. On top of the mount was a small Buddhist shrine – which felt so pertinent to the moment as we enjoyed this beautiful moment. With the sunset complete we set off back down the trail to Ella, passing many on the way up, not quite sure what was still drawing them to the top. I am not sure how I would feel coming down this trail in the dark without a light.
In Summary …
- Don’t sit in first class on the trains to Ella – you want windows that open
- Eat something before you travel or take a snack
- In Ella go to the nine arch bridge and take a walk across and enjoy the views
- Take the trip to the top of Little Adams Peak at sunrise or sunset
Planning the journey
You can basically go to the Nanu Oya train station (this is the name of the train station serving Nuwara Eliya) on the day of your and buy your ticket at the ticket office. Keep in mind, that the train station can get very busy especially during peak tourist periods and public holidays in Sri Lanka.
We would recommend getting your tickets beforehand, either with your tour company or if you are travelling independently, online. This avoids being disappointed by not getting the ticket you want and avoids the crowds in line for the ticket office at the station.
| Starting location: | Nanuoya (Nuwara Eliya) |
| Ending location: | Ella |
| Journey time: | 2 1/2 Hours |
| Pricing: | 1st Class ($20) 2nd Class $14 |
| Online Tickets | 12go.asia/en/nuwara-eliya |
| Timetable: | Trains with First Class reserved seating: 06:40, 09:24 and 11:57. There is a website that can help with planning train journeys in Sri Lanka, seat61.com/SriLanka.htm |
Best time to visit Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka has a variety of different tropical climates where rainfall periods and amounts of precipitation determine the distinction between a rainforest climate, tropical Savannah climate and tropical monsoon climate. Sri Lanka can be visited year round, however because of the two rainy seasons there is a lot of confusion as to when is the best time to visit. Here is a peek into the various monsoon periods: You have the Yala Monsoon; this means rain in the west, southwest and inland from the end of April to September. The other is the Maha Monsoon; this means rain on the east coast from October to March.
Are you planning to travel to the west and south coasts or inland? Then you have the highest chance of pleasant weather from December to March. Are you going to the east and north coasts? Then you have the highest chance of good weather from April/May to September.
Things to do in Ella
1. UDAWALAWE NATIONAL PARK SAFARI
Udawalawe National Park is a long 1 and 45-minute drive from Ella but is well worth the time to include on your visit to Ella. It is one of the best places to see elephants in Sri Lanka.
Once you reach the park you can join one of the many safaris that venture into the Park. As well as elephants you can see many other animals including wild buffalo, spotted deer, barking deer, wild boar, sambhur, hare, mongoose and crocodiles.
Also, if you have time visit the elephant transit home to see the baby orphaned elephants.
2. HIKE LITTLE ADAMS PEAK
One of the most popular things to do in Ella is to hike to the top of Little Adams Peak, especially at sunrise and sunset.
The trail starts a couple of kilometres out of town, so you can walk from there (which we did) and this is relatively flat. Alternatively, you can take a tuk-tuk as far as motorised vehicles are allowed. From here the climb starts, it is fairly steep but is not too bad and is short.
At the top, there are some lovely views. There is also a small Buddhist shrine.
3. HIKE ELLA ROCK
If you’re up for a bit more of a challenge, then definitely consider hiking Ella Rock whilst in town. This is definitely a tougher hike, but visitors are rewarded with stunning scenery and magical vistas across the tea plantations. This hike takes around 3-4 hours from Ella town centre/the train station. I would start the Ella Rock hike either early in the morning, or in the early afternoon, so you don’t do this hike in the dark.
Where to stay in Ella
1. THE SECRET PLACE
Located in a former tea planter’s home converted into a small luxury boutique resort, The Secret Ella is simply enchanting! The original planter’s bungalow is a gorgeous building with ensuite rooms, but you can also stay in private chalets overlooking the mountains and valley below.
The views are really incredible here, you can even see trains passing over the famous nine arches bridge from the edge of the resort’s garden.
The infinity-style swimming pool is a real highlight, allowing you to relax in the cool waters on a hot day while gazing down into the valley at the lush greenery everywhere. Guests can enjoy tea picking on the plantation and a tour of the resort’s tea factory for free, which includes a tea tasting at the end
2. ZION VIEW ELLA GREEN RETREAT
For a more affordable choice that still has stunning views, head to Zion View Ella Green Retreat. This is a bed and breakfast which also offers wellness activities like yoga.
As well as the comfy hammocks for lounging around, you can also relax and enjoy the views from the infinity pool. As a “green retreat” you’ll be able to partake in daily yoga sessions in the rooftop shala and have a heavenly Ayurvedic massage in the spa
Rooms are comfortable, clean and nicely furnished, all with hammocks on the balcony so you can enjoy that view straight across to Ella Rock! Zion View is also very central, right in the heart of Ella and within walking distance to the train station.
3. INSPIRA ELLA
Situated in Ella, 5.4 km from Demodara Nine Arch Bridge, Inspira ella features accommodation with a garden, free private parking and a shared lounge. Located around 49 km from Hakgala Botanical Garden, the hotel is also 4.1 km away from Ella Rock. The accommodation offers a 24-hour front desk, airport transfers, room service and free WiFi.
At the hotel, rooms are fitted with a desk, a terrace with a city view, a private bathroom, a flat-screen TV, bed linen and towels. The rooms will provide guests with a fridge.