One of the most popular ways to reach the historic Laotian city of Luang Prabang overland is by taking a boat trip along the Mekong river from the Thai border. It is often called a 'slow boat' because it takes two days to make the journey.
I was very excited at the prospect of travelling from Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand to Luang Prabang in Laos along the Mekong River. I had looked at the public slow boats that travel from the small Laotian town of Huay Xai on the Thai border to Luang Prabang, this was the cheapest way to travel but I had read things can be fairly cramped aboard. So, I decided to opt for one of the more comfortable – and pricier – private boats. I booked a package tour with VietAsia Travel which included transportation from Chiang Rai to Chiang Kong, the boat trip, overnight accommodation at Pakbeng, two nights’ accommodation in Luang Prabang and a tour of Luang Prabang and the local sights.
Day One – Huay Xai to Pakbeng
A driver was arriving at 6:30 am to take us to Chiang Khong, some 100km on the Thai/Laos border. So, it was a very early start to the day. We managed to get a half-cup of coffee inside us before the driver arrived.
It was Sunday, so the roads were very clear, so we arrived at the border in good time around 8:00 am.
Our large bags were taken from us, with reassurances we’d see them on the Laos side onboard the right boat. We’d got used to trusting the process, so we didn’t baulk at this – a couple of months back our reaction would have been a lot different.
Getting through the Thai border was so easy. They didn’t even check the bags we were carrying and there were no metal detectors. It was a stamp on the passport, and we were through.
The were buses waiting just the other side, which we climbed aboard and took the 10-minute trip across the Friendship bridge to the Laos immigration post.
There were two windows. At the first window, we lined up with our immigration forms completed. We’d been given ours when we got picked up, but that didn’t give us any advantage. The queue wasn’t too bad and took twenty minutes to get to the window. Whilst we were waiting it was some relief to see our bags had arrived! We didn’t have any passport-sized photos with us, so we paid 80 baht each to have one done for us.
We then had to move to the second window. This meant leaving our passport at the first window for processing. I never like to let go of my passport – but again it was trusting the process. At this window, they opened the passport to the picture page and waved them. If you saw yours, you went to the window and collected the passport, and they gave you a slip of paper.
For the third part of the process, you took the slip of paper to the cashiers, paid the USD 40 visa fee, and received another piece of paper with a QR code that got you through the turnstile into Laos. It all felt very casual with no questions asked or much in the way of security checks.
Our bags had disappeared again.
We were ushered into a tuk-tuk and rushed away to the small Laos town of Huay Xai which sits just inside Laos on the Mekong River.
On the shores of the river, we took the steep steps down the banks to a small jetty, where we were steered onto a long boat, perhaps 80 metres in length. I was joyous to see that our bags were sitting there waiting for us.
We were assigned a four-seat table, which would be ours for the next two days as we travelled on the slow boat down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang.
It was now around 10 am and we’d be spending the next 7 hours or so cruising on the river towards our overnight stay in the tiny village of Pakbeng.
These journeys from Huay Xai are called ‘slow boats’ for a reason – they don’t travel very fast even with the current. So, there was nothing much to do other than sit back and enjoy the world passing by you. We were sailing during the dry season, so the water levels on the Mekong were low, perhaps 10 metres or so down from their rainy season levels. So, despite the river being wide, there were many rocky islands to navigate through narrow channels where the water pressed through creating mini-rapids. It took a lot of skill and knowledge to steer our long boat through these.
We didn’t pass by any towns or large settlements. The views from the boat were agricultural or jungles.
Of course, we didn’t have the boat to ourselves. Another thirty or so people were travelling with us. The nice thing about this form of travel was that it gave us plenty of time to socialise with our fellow passengers. We quickly struck up a bond with four Germans; Lise, Ingrid, Nils and Oliver who were all travelling independently of each other. By the end of the day, we would become friends.
Onboard the boat we had access to free coffee, tea, water, and some fruits for snacks. There was also a bar to buy more snacks, such as crisps and drinks like soda and of course beer. They also had rice whisky on sale. Around lunchtime, many passengers had started on the beer, including our German friends. We had not drunk alcohol since New Year, so we decided to abstain.
When lunch was served, the four vegetarians on board (which included had a separate table with our food. This didn’t stop the non-vegetarians dipping in because the queue was shorter, which pissed Karen off royally.
Our only excursion of the day was mid-afternoon when the boat pulled up on the banks of the Mekong next to a small village. All the passengers disembarked, much to the amusement of the local children. We all slowly walked up the hill under the leadership of Xayphone, who was our guide for our two-day trip. He gave some insight into the tribes of Laos, their lifestyles and customs. We were then allowed to roam under our own steam through the village, which we thought might feel like we were being intrusive, but the villagers made us very welcome.
On many village tours, there are craft tables set up to sell souvenirs to the tourists – which often makes us feel uncomfortable as we don’t have space for souvenirs. This was not the case here, and there was not a souvenir stall in sight.
There was a lady who was making rice whisky, which of course everyone (well most people) wanted to try. It seemed rude not to join in, so we broke our alcohol fast, even if it was the smallest of sips. I am not sure if it is a good idea to try alcohol served out of a plastic water bottle without knowing its strength, but we’d done it in Uganda with banana gin and lived to tell the tale, so why not try again?
We stopped at a small house with a lovely little garden, where a lady was working on putting up a shelter for her pigs. As we stood there, we realised that one of the pigs had tiny piglets with it. We discovered that they were born that day. Most of our fellow travellers moved on but Karen hung back, and we allowed into the garden and to hold one of the piglets, that still had some of its umbilical cords attached.
We continued our walk through the village. There was a group of young children who were squirting each other with a soaker gun. Karen asked if she could see the squirter and foolishly they handed it over. She then proceeded to squirt them. It was a lovely thing to be able to join in with their play.
All too soon we had to reboard our boat and continue down the river. There were about 90 minutes left on our journey and our new German friends felt there was enough time for another beer. Our alcohol fast was broken, so we decided to join them with a bottle of Lao beer.
At around 17:30 we reached our stop for the night, the village of Pak Beng. We left our big luggage on board and carried just enough clothes for an overnight stay. Some tuk-tuks were waiting to take us on the short journey to our hotels.
We were spending the night at the Sanctuary Hotel. Our room was very pleasant with a balcony that overlooked the Mekong River. Sadly, we’d not be having much chance to enjoy it.
The Sanctuary had a restaurant, and we were very tired after a long day of travel (albeit gentle) so we decided to eat there. Nils, one of our German friends who was also staying at the Sanctuary agreed to join us. So, we all went off to freshen up.
The food at the Sanctuary was very good. We had a lovely day and made some new friends. Does it get better than that?
Day Two – Pakbeng to Luang Prabang
After breakfast, we gathered our things together and then took a tuk-tuk down to the river and boarded our boat.
The day very much followed the routine of the previous day. It sounds like Groundhog Day but it was much nicer than that. We chilled. Karen played cards with the Germans, while I read and wrote up my travel notes.
In the afternoon we had a stop at Pak Ou Caves which are about 25 kilometres north of Luang Prabang on the limestone cliffs overlooking the Mekong River. These caves are a 16th-century cave monastery filled with thousands of Buddha images.
The caves have been a place of worship for centuries, as people believed they were inhabited by the spirits of the river. According to Laos legend, the caves were discovered in the 16th century by King Setthathirath, one of Laos’ greatest Kings, who built monuments such as the Wat Xieng Thong and the Pha That Luang.
There are two caves, the lower and upper. Both the lower and upper caves are filled with numerous Buddha images filling up every nook and corner of the caves. The images are in various mudras and vary in size from several centimetres to fairly large. Many of the centuries-old, wooden images are damaged.
From the boat landing a stairway leads to the caves, guarded by white lions. Along the way up vendors offer flowers, incense sticks and candles to pay respect to the Buddha images.
The lower cave called Tham Thing is most easily visited. The small cave is just a short climb from the boat landing and gets enough daylight for good visibility.
From the lower cave, we climbed three hundred or more steps to the larger upper cave called Tham Phum, at about 60 metres above the river. This cave is much deeper but is lit inside so you can see everything.
We were hot from the strenuous climb to the upper cave, so when we returned to the boat, we joined the others in drinking a cooling Laobeer!
About 30 minutes later we arrived at the jetty in Luang Prabang. Unfortunately, we arrived at the same time as the public boat, which was ram-a-jammed with locals and backpackers. Luckily, our captain found a quiet spot for us to pull in just up the river. We disembarked the boat and climbed aboard minivans to take us to our hotels.
It only took a few minutes to reach the historical centre of Luang Prabang and our hotel the Villa Chitdara. The van driver didn’t seem to want to go the few yards down the road to drop us off outside the hotel. So, we jumped out and carried our bags down the street. It wasn’t until we’d gotten down the street that Karen asked me where my yellow Carhartt shoulder bag was. Shit, I’d left it in the minivan.
We quickly contacted Xayphone, who said he’d contact the minivan driver. I was very upset as my passport and other credit cards were in that bag. I was a big relief when Xayphone’s brother turned up with my bag. He was also going to get tickets for the train to Vientiane on Thursday, which was likely to sell out quickly.
It had been a relaxing and fun two days travelling to Luang Prabang along the Mekong River. This is something I would highly recommend to anyone wanting to travel from Northern Thailand to Laos. We had also met some wonderful people and forged some new friendships!
The Slow Boat from Northern Thailand to Luang Prabang
The mighty Mekong River is 4800km long and passes through seven countries. The trip to Luang Prabang is around 300km and is split into two journeys. Day One is 140km to Pak Beng for an overnight stay, and Day Two is 160km to Luang Prabang. Each day is 7-8 hours on the river.
The best time to visit Laos
Laos has a mainly tropical climate, with a landlocked geography in Southeast Asia. Significant portions of the western and southern regions experience a tropical savannah climate (Köppen climate classification Aw). A large strip from the west-central to the southeast region falls under the influence of the tropical monsoon (Köppen Am). The remaining one-third of the land in the north and east has a subtropical climate (Köppen Cwa, Cwb).
The best time to visit Laos
The worst time to visit Laos
Weather Month-By-Month
It’s dry throughout the country in January, with comfortably warm temperatures, although it can get quite cold in the north of the country. It’s therefore best to wrap up during river travel, early mornings and late evenings. River levels should be high, making this a good time to explore the country’s waterways.
It remains dry throughout the country, with temperatures only rising a little and the north still getting quite cold during the early part of the month. River levels should still be good; however, damming by the Chinese has impacted water levels in recent years.
Events & Festivals
- Boun Ma Kha Bu Saar/Full Moon Festival (February): This festival celebrates a speech given by Buddha. You can observe chanting and parades of worshippers bearing candles at local temples.
- Wat Phou Festival: Taking part in processions, recitals, boat races and dances, Buddhists attend this three-day festival from across the province of Champasak.
- Boun Koun Khao (March): An agricultural festival celebrated in rural villages and local temples at harvest time — a great opportunity to observe rural customs and traditions.
- Boun Pha Vet (late March): Held over three days and three nights, this is a religious festival celebrating the penultimate incarnation of Buddha, with the story recited in temples across the country.
- Boun Pi Mai/Lao New Year (April): A great time to visit as celebrations are held country-wide for several days. Be prepared to get wet as people are doused with scented water in the street as a cleansing ritual!.\/li>
- Boun Bang Fai/Rocket Festival (May or June): A festival to mark the sixth month of the lunar calendar, used as a call for rain and a celebration of fertility. Home-made fireworks are launched by locals and entered into competitions.
- Boun Visakhaboucha (May/the sixth full moon of the lunar calendar): Candlelight processions can be observed at temples as the birth, enlightenment and death of Buddha is commemorated.
- Boun Bang Fai/Rocket Festival (May or June): A festival to mark the sixth month of the lunar calendar, used as a call for rain and a celebration of fertility. Home-made fireworks are launched by locals and entered into competitions..
- Boun Khao Padabdin/Rice and Boat Racing Festival: To commemorate the dead, locals make food offerings to monks and deceased relatives. Hand-made boats are then raced on the Mekong River in homage to water divinities and the Nagas. You can experience this festival in Luang Prabang.
- Boun Ok Phansa/Boat Racing Festival (ten days leading up to October’s full moon): Celebrated at the end of the rainy season, elaborate boats are raced along the Mekong River and various festivities take place on the riverbank in honour of the Naga king. Enjoy this festival in Vientiane.
- Naga Rocket Festival — Bolikhamxay Province (October): Held on the last night of the Lao Buddhist Lent, small multi-coloured fireballs can be seen on the water where the Nam Ngum and Mekong River meet in Bolikhamxay.
- That Luang Festival and Trade Fair in Vientiane (November): A three-day religious festival where tens of thousands of monks and pilgrims gather at the That Luang or Grand Stupa, which is an important symbol of Laos, bearing wax candles.
The dry season continues, with temperatures rising throughout the country to over 30°C in places; although cooler conditions can still be found in the highlands. Travel in the central and southern regions can be a little uncomfortable, and a top tip would be to combine southern Laos with the Bolaven Plateau, where the higher altitude gives respite from the hot climate. River levels will be getting low at this time of year, making river travel in the north difficult and somewhat unpleasant due to the haze created by the slash and burn season, which is in full swing.
Events & Festivals
This is the last month of the dry season, although there is a slim chance of rain toward the end of the month. River levels will be at an annual low, meaning river travel may be difficult in some parts of the country. Temperatures will be at their highest throughout the country, reaching 36°C in the south, so travel may be uncomfortable. Slash and burn will also continue to impact the surroundings and smoke and haze will normally be seen in the major towns and countryside.
There is a chance of dry weather during the first half of the month; however, rain is expected and will almost certainly arrive by the latter stages. River levels will again remain low and the recent damming has made this worse. Slash and burn may continue in some parts of the country until the rains arrive. Hot and humid throughout.
Events & Festivals
Rain will start to fall throughout most of the country; with the north seeing the least. The rain tends to be short-lived and plenty of sunshine can still be expected away from the south of the country. Temperatures hover around the low 30°Cs.
Events & Festivals
The wet season is now in full swing and temperatures continue to average around 30°C. It is not uncommon for temperatures to drop a little; with cooler temperatures found in the south (specifically the Bolaven Plateau). As it becomes wetter, lush green foliage begins to swathe the landscape in central Laos, while in the south, cascading waterfalls can be admired once more.
Rainfall reaches its peak in August as showers become longer and more intense, and little of the country will remain dry. River levels begin to fill up in time for the dry season approaching, and Laos’ beautiful landscapes return. During this time, travel to remote areas can be somewhat difficult. Temperatures drop to the low 20°Cs throughout the country.
Rainfall continues to peak all over the country, and travel to remote areas can still be troublesome. However, toward the end of the month the sun will start to make an appearance, and combined with the waterfalls and leafy landscape helps to make this one of the most attractive times to visit for those seeking stunning natural scenery.
Events & Festivals
The drier weather returns, but some rain may still make an appearance. On the whole, temperatures are cooler at this time of year but not uncomfortable, hovering around the mid to high 20°Cs. This is an excellent time to visit as you will beat the crowds yet still enjoy fair weather and the fresh green landscapes created by the wet season.
Events & Festivals
Dry conditions are seen throughout the country, and this is the peak season for river travel, with river levels at their highest. Temperatures will be comfortable at around the mid to high 20°Cs, and flora and fauna are in abundance.
Events & Festivals
December offers a similar outlook to November, with dry, warm weather and ideal river cruising conditions. Toward the end of the month temperatures can drop in the northern parts of the country.