Vientiane, Laos' national capital, mixes French-colonial architecture with Buddhist temples such as the golden, 16th-century Pha That Luang. Along broad boulevards and tree-lined streets are many notable shrines including Wat Si Saket, which features thousands of Buddha images, and Wat Si Muang, built atop a Hindu shrine.
Laos: Luang Prabang – Hmong Village & Kuang Si Waterfalls
Less than an hour away from Luang Prabang, Kuang Si Falls is known for its milky turquoise waters. There are multiple pools scattered throughout the area; the main pool has rope swings, and an overhanging tree limb from which you can jump into the water.
Having spent the morning exploring the historic sites of Luang Prabang we had a more leisurely plan for the afternoon. After lunch we were picked up by our guide and driver, and whisked into the countryside, travelling across some very potholed roads. It felt like we were back in Africa.
Our first stop was a Hmong village.
The Hmong people are an ethnic group in East and Southeast Asia. They are a sub-group of the Miao people, and live mainly in Southern China, Vietnam and Laos. In 2005, the Hmong in Laos numbered 460,000.
During the first and second Indochina Wars, France and the United States’ Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) recruited thousands of Hmong people in Laos to fight against forces from north and south Vietnam and the communist Pathet Lao insurgents. This CIA operation is known as the Secret War.
The original home of the Hmong is thought to have been in the Huang He (Yellow River) basin of central China. They were slowly driven southward and marginalized by the expanding population of the Han Chinese.
Evidence suggests the Hmong lived in Siberia as similarities are seen between the Hmong and Siberian shaman practices. They primarily practice animism.
In the 1800s, faced with political persecution, depleted soil fertility and increasing population pressure, some Hmong migrated into Southeast Asia. They settled in the mountains of northern Burma, Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam. After the 1975 communist takeover in Laos, Hmong soldiers and family fled Laos to refugee camps in Thailand. Some Hmong remained in the Thai camps, while many resettled in other parts of the world.
The Hmong living in highland Laos practiced slash and burn agriculture on the fertile, shallow, mountaintop soil. The climate is tropical monsoon, with a rainy season May to November and a dry season December to April. Only 3.8% of the country is arable land. Natural hazards include floods and droughts, and current environmental issues include unexploded ordnance (landmines), deforestation and soil erosion. Most of the population does not have access to clean drinking water.
The lead us down the narrow lanes, passing by tables laid out with souvenirs. We were the only tourists there, so we of course had done a lot of ‘no thank you’ as we passed by. They parents had trained their very cute children to be the sale people, which made it a lot harder to say no. We have had nine months of training in declining to buy souvenirs.
In the village there was a traditional house that had been set up as a cultural museum, with examples of Hmong costumes, and demonstrations of how they processed corn, rice and hemp to make clothing. They had also set up a crossbow with a trip wire to show how they protected their crops from wild pigs. There was also a manual crossbow and I got to shoot a target of a wild bird; I didn’t have the heart to decline the opportunity based on being a vegan.
The Hmong house was a single room structure, filled with day-to-day kitchen and farming tools. Apparently, a whole family would live in this room.
From the village we set out for Kuang Si Waterfalls, about 25km outside of Luang Prabang.
Since the Covid-19 pandemic they had changed the access to the waterfalls. No longer can you drive right up to the entrance of park. There is large parking are about a kilometre from the entrance, and from here they provide electric ‘buses’, which are essentially extended golf carts.
Once at the park entrance we walked up the hill towards the main falls. We met our friends from the slow boat trip, Adam and Tim (a Canadian man lugging his guitar around SE Asia).
I had been somewhat sceptical of coming to see waterfalls in the dry season, as the low water flow makes them disappointing. As soon as I saw the main falls, I changed my mind immediately. The water was falling from a hundred metres or so above from where we were standing into the pools below. The water in these pools were a stunning blue colour. It looked almost artificial. The pools we formed in steps with smaller falls between each step. The backdrop to this was an unblemished rainforest. It felt like paradise – apart from all the people around us. To be fair it was a fairly quiet and not too packed.
The advised to skip the first pool, so we headed to the second pool, which was much larger. We popped to the bathroom to change. I gingerly climbed down the steps into the blue water. Initially, I was walking over rocks, but soon found myself standing on sand. The water was chilly, but I decided to launch myself in and begin swimming. I soon warmed up. Karen was a bit more cautious coming in, but she soon braved the cool waters. One of the unusual things about these pools are the small fish, who quickly start to nibble on your dead skin, especially on your feet and legs. It was like being in a giant foot spa. Still, it was a bit disconcerting getting random nibbles on your lower regions. This pool has a tree with a large branch that extends out over the water which people like to climb and use as a diving board.
We lasted about 10-minutes before retreating and changing back into our dry clothes.
On the way back down the hill we stopped at the bear sanctuary. The sanctuary is dedicated to rescuing the endangered moon bears. The bears’ habitat has been badly eroded by logging and slash-burning. Many bears are injured by contact with humans or even kept as pets. The sanctuary has about 26 moon bears. The moon bear is a larger version of the sun bear and has the same markings on the chest. We watched one bear who was lolling around in a hammock. Someone threw some food into the enclosure, and suddenly two more bears appeared from their shelter. The bear in the hammock also decided to join in the fun and climbed down to get the food.
We were soon back in the minivan and heading back to Luang Prabang.
Planning your visit to Kuang Si Waterfalls
ENTRY FEES
20,000 kip (2.5 USD)
HOW TO GET TO KUANG SI FALLS
Tuk-tuk
From Luang Prabang a van or tuk-tuk will drive you to Kuang Si Falls for 30,000 kip or $4 USD. The drive takes about 40 minutes, passing small villages and winding through the hilly terrain. The Kuang Si Falls entrance fee is 20,000 Kip or $2.30 USD.
Mini-bus
You can organize transport online by booking a round-trip seat in a reliable shared minivan that will take you to and from Luang Prabang to Kuang Si Falls. The best part is that it is a round trip for just $6.
Tours
There are numerous tours that run from Luang Prabang to Kuang Si Falls (and can include a trip to the Hmong village as well).
Planning your visit to Luang Prabang
Plane
Luang Prabang International Airport (LPQ) is located 4 km from the center of Luang Prabang. Luang Prabang International Airport serves domestic and international flights. Several international and domestic airlines operate scheduled flights to/from Luang Prabang Airport, including Lao Airlines, Bangkok Airways, Thai Airways, China Eastern Airlines, and Vietnam Airlines.
Bus
- Within Laos: The bus from Vientiane to Luang Prabang takes about 10 hours and has a few morning departures from Vientiane’s Northern Bus Station. From Luang Prabang’s Naluang (Southern) Bus Station, travelers can take a shared tuk-tuk ride to the town centre.
- A faster alternative to a public bus is a minibus. You can buy a ticket from most travel agents and some guesthouses. The journey on a minibus is faster but they can also be pretty cramped. A minibus from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang takes 5 hours. From Vientiane, it takes about 7 hours.
- International bus: There are international buses from Hanoi, Vinh (Vietnam), Loei (Thailand), Kunming (China) to Luang Prabang.
Boat
One of the nicest and most popular ways to get to Luang Prabang is to cross the border at Chiang Khong in Thailand to Huay Xai and take a boat up or down the Mekong through spectacular and scenic countryside. If you take the slow boat, it will take 2 days. See our blog post on taking the slow boat.
Train
The 414km-long Boten-Vientiane railway was completed and put into operation in December 2021. There’re 5 scheduled trains available on each way, including 4 speed trains (CXX) and 1 ordinary train (KXX). Speed trains run at 160km/hour and ordinary train at 120km/hour. The speed trains reduce the ride journey between Vientiane and Luang Prabang from 10 hours to 2 hours. Another important station is Vang Vieng in between. It’s now very convenient to travel among Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang and Boten.
The train always sells out so you need to get your tickets in advance. When we travelled it was quite an ordeal to get tickets, but that may have changed, so check with your hotel.
Also, worth noting is that the train station is quite a way out of town (12km). So, you will need transport (and time) to get there!
The best time to visit Luang Prabang
The best time to visit Luang Prabang
Given the climatological patterns, the best time to visit Luang Prabang would be from November to February. During these months, the city experiences relatively cooler temperatures, ranging from 26.3°C (79.3°F) to 30.8°C (87.4°F) in the day and 14.2°C (57.6°F) to 18°C (64.4°F) at night. Rainfall is also at a minimum, with only two to three rainy days per month. The city enjoys an average of six to seven hours of sunshine, making it an ideal setting for outdoor activities.
The worst time to visit Luang Prabang
The least suitable period to visit Luang Prabang would be between June and September. These months experience the highest rainfall reaching up to 289mm (11.38″), with as much as 16 to 19 rainy days in a month. Despite the longer daylight hours, the actual sunlight hours reduce to around 4 to 4.6 hours per day due to cloud coverage. Add high humidity, with average values above 85%, and the appeal for outdoor activities diminishes greatly.
Where to stay in Luang Prabang
1. Luxury – Satri House Hotel
Located in Luang Prabang, the colonial-style Satri House was the previous residence of Prince Souphanouvon. The hotel offers 2 outdoor pools, free Wi-Fi and a spa.
The modern rooms at Satri House feature beautiful interiors and a cable TV. Standard amenities include a minibar and fridge.
Guests can lounge by the 2 pools and enjoy views of the beautiful landscaped gardens. The hotel’s spa features massage services and sauna facilities.
2. Mid-Range – Luang Prabang Museum Inn
Located in Luang Prabang and with Mount Phousy reachable within 1.2 km, Luang Prabang Museum Inn & Travel provides concierge services, allergy-free rooms, free bikes, free WiFi and a shared lounge. This 3-star hotel offers room service and a 24-hour front desk. Guests can enjoy American and Asian dishes at the restaurant or have a cocktail at the snack bar.
The hotel will provide guests with air-conditioned rooms with a desk, a kettle, a fridge, a minibar, a safety deposit box, a flat-screen TV, a terrace and a private bathroom with a bidet. At Luang Prabang Museum Inn & Travel each room has bed linen and towels.
3. Budget – The Jam
Set in Luang Prabang, 1.2 km from Mount Phousy, The Jam offers accommodation with an outdoor swimming pool, free private parking, a garden and a shared lounge. Among the various facilities are a restaurant, a bar, as well as barbecue facilities. The accommodation features a 24-hour front desk, airport transfers, room service and free WiFi throughout the property.
Every room has a private bathroom with a bidet, while certain rooms here will provide you with a terrace and others also provide guests with pool views.
You can play billiards at the hostel, and bike hire and car hire are available.
More to Explore
