Paro, set in a broad valley surrounded by forested hills and snow-capped peaks, is a quiet Bhutanese town where traditional wooden houses, ancient monasteries, and terraced fields coexist peacefully with the slow rhythm of everyday life.
Bhutan: Sopsokha Chimi Lhakhang Temple
🚶 A Walk to Chimi Lhakhang – The Divine Madman’s Temple
After a simple lunch at a small restaurant just below the Green Resort Hotel, we set off on foot with Sangay, our guide, for a visit to one of Bhutan’s most intriguing temples — Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of fertility. The walk began gently, following a dusty track that led us through the golden rice fields below Sopsokha village. Farmers were busy at work, threshing dried grasses by hand with quiet rhythm and remarkable patience. The air was filled with the earthy scent of grain and the steady swish of straw being beaten against the ground. It was humbling to watch their labour, knowing that most of the rice here is grown for family use, with little left to sell.
👧 Along the way, we came across a little girl crouched in an irrigation stream, completely absorbed in rolling balls of mud between her hands. She smiled as we passed, her bare feet glistening in the water, a simple picture of rural childhood. The sound of trickling water followed us as the trail began to rise gently towards the village, and before long, the bright greens of the paddy fields gave way to the ochre tones of mud walls and timbered houses.
🛍️ Sopsokha Village and Its Curious Charms
The village of Sopsokha is small but lively, its narrow lanes lined with colourful shops aimed squarely at passing travellers. Yet this was no ordinary tourist stop. Hanging from the eaves and spilling from shelves were hundreds of hand-carved wooden penises — painted in every shade imaginable. Some were small enough to fit in a pocket; others were large enough to carry like walking sticks. A few were fashioned into aeroplanes or painted with dragons curling around their shafts. It was, at first sight, a little startling — but as Sangay explained, there was nothing crude or comical about it.
In Bhutanese culture, the phallus is a sacred symbol — an emblem of fertility, prosperity, and protection from evil spirits. The custom dates back centuries, to the teachings of Lama Drukpa Kunley, affectionately known as the Divine Madman. In Bhutan, he is revered as both a saint and a free spirit, a man who taught Buddhism through humour, song, and acts of deliberate shock. His message was simple but profound: enlightenment can be found through ordinary life, not only through asceticism. For this reason, homes across Bhutan — especially in Punakha — are often decorated with colourful phallus paintings, sometimes hairy, sometimes spewing fire, each one thought to bring luck and ward off misfortune.
🕍 The Temple of Fertility – Chimi Lhakhang
Our path wound upwards to the top of the hill where the temple stands, surrounded by open fields and framed by the soft hum of prayer flags fluttering in the wind. At the entrance stands a large prayer wheel that pilgrims spin as they pass, sending prayers skyward with each slow turn. Nearby sits a small black chorten, said to mark the spot where the Divine Madman subdued a demon — trapping it forever beneath the stone.
The temple itself is modest compared to the grand dzongs of Bhutan, yet it carries a quiet dignity. Its whitewashed walls are adorned with gold and brown medallions, and the roof gleams with gilded edges that catch the sunlight. Inside, the air is thick with the scent of butter lamps and incense. As we entered, we found ourselves sharing the space with a young Bhutanese family receiving a blessing from a rather stern-looking monk, who seemed in no mood for tourists. We waited politely until he was finished before Sangay began explaining the temple’s iconography and the figures within.
At the heart of the shrine stands a statue of Guru Rinpoche — the second Buddha — serene and golden. Beside him lies a reclining image of Lama Drukpa Kunley himself, smiling faintly as if amused by the reverence now paid to him. Known for his mischievous wit and disregard for convention, Drukpa Kunley challenged the rigid orthodoxy of the clergy. He drank wine, sang bawdy songs, and was famously fond of women. He believed that enlightenment could be achieved through joy, not denial — through embracing life in its full, unfiltered form. Legends tell of him bringing women to spiritual awakening through acts of love, earning him the nickname The Saint of 5,000 Women. Today, women who struggle to conceive still visit Chimi Lhakhang to seek his blessing, often receiving it symbolically with a wooden phallus kept by the temple monks.
🌾 Wandering Back Through the Village
After spending time inside the temple and soaking up its strange, peaceful atmosphere, we began our descent. Instead of returning through the rice fields, we took a detour through the village lanes, where yet more shops lined the way. Karen couldn’t resist stepping into one small store that claimed all its crafts were made by people with disabilities. She browsed for a while and emerged with a few handmade bookmarks — light enough to carry, and supporting a good cause.
As we wandered back, a large garbage truck rumbled into the square. It was fascinating to see everyone suddenly spring into action — shopkeepers, café owners, even monks — all emerging with bags and boxes to load onto the truck. The sense of community was tangible; waste collection here happens just once a week, so everyone helps out. It was an oddly fitting end to the day — a glimpse of daily life in a place where spirituality, practicality, and humour coexist so naturally.
By the time we reached the Green Resort Hotel again, the late afternoon light had settled gently over the valley. Prayer flags fluttered in the breeze, farmers were still working in the distance, and the sound of laughter drifted up from the village below. Visiting Chimi Lhakhang was far more than a temple stop — it was a window into Bhutan’s heart, where the sacred and the human meet in perfect harmony.
The best time to visit Bhutan
🌸 Spring (March to May)
Spring is one of the most beautiful times to visit Bhutan. The valleys burst into life with blooming rhododendrons, magnolias, and jacarandas, painting the hillsides in shades of pink, red, and white. The weather is mild and pleasant, with temperatures ranging between 15°C and 25°C in the daytime. The skies are usually clear, offering perfect views of the Himalayas. This season is also filled with cultural festivals such as the famous Paro Tshechu, which gives travellers a wonderful insight into Bhutan’s traditional dance and spiritual heritage. It’s an excellent time for trekking, photography, and sightseeing as the natural landscape is at its most vibrant.
🌞 Summer (June to August)
Summer in Bhutan coincides with the monsoon season, bringing lush greenery and frequent rainfall, particularly in the southern and central regions. While this can make trekking more challenging, it is still a peaceful time to visit as there are fewer tourists. The countryside is at its greenest, and the air feels fresh and pure. Rain showers are often short-lived and mostly occur in the afternoons or evenings, leaving the mornings clear for exploration. For those interested in the flora and fauna of Bhutan, this season offers a chance to see rare orchids and butterflies in full display. However, mountain views may be limited due to mist and cloud cover.
🍁 Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is considered the most popular and rewarding time to visit Bhutan. The monsoon rains fade away, leaving behind crisp, clear skies and cool temperatures ranging from 10°C to 20°C. The landscape is lush after the rains, and the air clarity makes it ideal for mountain photography and long treks. This is also the season of some of the most significant festivals, such as the Thimphu and Wangdue Tshechus, which attract both locals and travellers. Trekking routes like the Druk Path and Jomolhari are at their best, offering stunning views of the snow-capped peaks. If you want the perfect balance between pleasant weather, cultural richness, and scenic beauty, autumn is hard to beat.
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winter in Bhutan is cold, especially in the higher regions, but it is also peaceful and remarkably clear. In western and central Bhutan, temperatures can drop below freezing at night, though the days are often sunny and bright. It’s an excellent season for visiting the lower valleys such as Punakha and Phobjikha, where the famous black-necked cranes migrate for the winter. This is also a good time for photography and temple visits, as the skies are deep blue and the tourist crowds are minimal. However, trekking in high mountain areas is generally not advised due to snow and icy conditions.
🎒 What to Pack
No matter when you visit Bhutan, layering is key. Pack light, breathable clothes for daytime, and warm layers for the evenings, especially if you are visiting high-altitude areas. A good waterproof jacket is essential during the monsoon months and useful year-round due to unpredictable weather in the mountains. Comfortable walking shoes or boots are a must, as most sightseeing involves gentle hikes or uneven terrain. Sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat are recommended for the strong mountain sun. In winter, include thermal wear, gloves, and a warm hat. A small backpack for day trips and a refillable water bottle will also come in handy.
📅 Seasonal Summary Chart
| Season | Months | Weather | Highlights | Ideal For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mar–May | Mild & colourful | Flower blooms, Paro Tshechu | Trekking, culture, photography |
| 🌞 Summer | Jun–Aug | Warm, rainy, lush | Green landscapes, few tourists | Nature, quiet retreats |
| 🍁 Autumn | Sep–Nov | Cool & clear | Major festivals, mountain views | Trekking, sightseeing |
| ❄️ Winter | Dec–Feb | Cold & sunny | Black-necked cranes, peace & solitude | Birdwatching, photography |
🌄 Overall Best Time to Visit Bhutan
The overall best time to visit Bhutan is from late September to November. During these months, the skies are clear, the weather is comfortable, and the scenery is at its most spectacular. It’s also the prime time for experiencing Bhutan’s most vibrant festivals and enjoying treks with breathtaking Himalayan views. However, if you prefer fewer crowds and blooming landscapes, spring (March to May) is a close second and equally magical in its own way.
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