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🌄 Journey to the Haa Valley – A Hidden Gem Between Thimphu and Paro
Leaving Thimphu early in the morning, we set out for Paro, but our plan for the day was far more exciting than a simple transfer. We were taking a side trip to one of Bhutan’s most remote and least-visited regions — the Haa Valley. The road first took us along the familiar route towards Paro, winding gently through pine forests and sleepy villages on the valley floor. Just beyond the outskirts of Paro, we turned off onto a narrower road that began to climb steadily up the mountainside. From here, the scenery quickly became breathtaking. Terraced fields fell away behind us, and as we gained height, we could feel the crisp mountain air growing cooler and cleaner. The road was steep and full of bends, but every turn offered a new view — one moment a waterfall tumbling through the forest, the next a glimpse of a distant snow-covered peak.
🏔️ Chele La Pass and the Mighty Himalayas
After about an hour and a half of steady climbing, our driver pulled over at a viewpoint where the mighty Himalayan range stretched across the horizon. We were lucky with the weather — clear blue skies and just a trace of cloud hanging above the jagged peaks. Among them stood Liang Gangkangri, Bhutan’s second-highest mountain at 7,535 metres (24,721 feet). It looked impossibly grand, its icy summit glowing in the morning light. We took our time here, snapping photos and simply soaking in the scale and silence of the landscape.
A few minutes further on, we reached Chele La Pass, the highest motorable road in Bhutan at 3,988 metres (13,084 feet). Despite its height and beauty, the pass remains surprisingly undeveloped. A few makeshift stalls stood near the roadside, selling tea and snacks, and prayer flags flapped wildly in the wind, their colours vivid against the snow-dusted peaks. There was some construction underway nearby — a new temple being built on the slope — but otherwise, it felt wonderfully untouched. The sheer number of prayer flags strung across the mountain was mesmerising. They covered every available surface, a living patchwork of red, blue, green, white, and yellow, sending their blessings out into the vast open air.
🐃 Meeting the Yaks of Chele La
During our earlier trip across to Gangtey, we’d been a little disappointed not to see any yaks, so our excitement was real when Sangay, our driver, slowed down and pointed towards a small herd grazing just off the road. The animals were magnificent — large, shaggy, and perfectly at home in the rugged landscape. Their thick coats looked like long, tangled wool, swinging as they moved. We wanted to get closer for a better photograph, but Sangay gently warned us that while yaks are loyal to their herders, they can be unpredictable and even aggressive towards strangers. We stayed back and watched them from a respectful distance, grateful for the sight. It felt like a rare privilege to witness these hardy creatures in their natural element.
🌾 Descending into the Haa Valley
From the high pass, the road began to snake downwards, leading us into the Haa Valley — one of Bhutan’s least developed and most traditional regions. The descent was spectacular. The landscape softened as we dropped in altitude, the stark mountain slopes giving way to terraced farms and small clusters of traditional houses. The air felt warmer, and we could see farmers working in their fields below. The valley floor was a patchwork of gold and green, dotted with barns and stone walls.
This region is known for its rice cultivation, but because of the high altitude, the farmers only manage one harvest per year. When we visited, the rice had already been gathered, and the fields were being turned and prepared for winter. There was a rhythm and calmness to the scene — oxen pulling ploughs, women carrying baskets, children chasing each other along the narrow paths. Everything here seemed slower, simpler, and deeply rooted in the land.
🏯 Visiting Haa Dzong
The main settlement of the valley is Haa town, a quiet and compact place surrounded by rolling hills. On the outskirts, we passed a large Indian military base. Our guide explained that Indian forces train the Bhutanese army here as part of a long-standing agreement between the two nations. It’s a visible sign of friendship and cooperation, especially given Bhutan’s strategic position near the Chinese border.
A little further on stood Haa Dzong, formerly known as Wangchuk Lo Dzong. It was built in 1915 to replace an earlier structure from the late 19th century. Compared to some of the grand dzongs we’d seen elsewhere in Bhutan — like Punakha or Trongsa — this one felt modest and more intimate. It didn’t have the towering walls or the imposing courtyards, but its simplicity gave it a quiet dignity. Inside the main square, a handful of buildings surrounded the central courtyard, including a small meditation hall.
We arrived just as the monks were preparing for lunch. The younger novices, full of energy, darted around excitedly while the older monks tried to maintain some discipline, their faces a mixture of amusement and disapproval. Watching them felt like a small glimpse into daily life here — timeless and human. When we stepped inside the meditation hall, we found ourselves completely alone. It was a peaceful, dimly lit space with butter lamps flickering before statues of the Buddha and walls covered in colourful murals.
🍛 A Quiet Lunch in Haa Town
After leaving the dzong, we drove into Haa town for lunch. The town itself was tiny — a single main street lined with wooden shopfronts and traditional houses, some with carved balconies and painted windows. The restaurant we stopped at was on the first floor of a local guesthouse. As we waited for our meal, Karen wandered over to a small television in the corner that was showing news footage from Gaza, where Israeli forces were searching hospitals for Hamas fighters. The contrast between that violent scene and the peaceful valley outside our window was striking and unsettling.
When our food arrived, it was simple but delicious — rice, vegetables, and spicy ema datshi, Bhutan’s signature dish of chillies and cheese. After lunch, it was time to make the long journey back to Paro.
🐂 Return Journey and Golden Light
On our way back over Chele La Pass, we were delighted to spot the same herd of yaks again, this time grazing even closer to the roadside. We stopped briefly to take more photographs, the afternoon sun catching the edges of their thick coats. From there, the road wound steadily down towards Paro, bathed in golden light. The hills glowed, the forests shimmered, and every bend offered a view more beautiful than the last.
We made one final stop at a small farmer’s lean-to shelter, a simple wooden structure with tools, bundles of straw, and drying herbs hanging from the roof. It was a small moment, but it captured something of rural Bhutan’s everyday life — resourceful, practical, and deeply connected to nature.
By the time we reached our hotel on the outskirts of Paro, the sun had set behind the mountains. The property stood on a hillside overlooking the rice fields, with a perfect view of Paro Dzong in the distance. It was the ideal place to rest after a long day. Tomorrow, we would tackle the iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery, so we spent the evening quietly, enjoying the stillness and preparing for the climb ahead.
Final Thoughts
The day’s journey to the Haa Valley was one of the most memorable parts of our Bhutan adventure — peaceful, unspoilt, and rich in quiet beauty. Far from the usual tourist trail, it offered a glimpse of a more traditional Bhutan, where daily life unfolds much as it has for generations. From the dizzy heights of Chele La Pass to the gentle charm of Haa town, it was a day that reminded us why Bhutan is often called the last Shangri-La — a place where the mountains meet the clouds, and time itself seems to slow.
The best time to visit Bhutan
🌸 Spring (March to May)
Spring is one of the most beautiful times to visit Bhutan. The valleys burst into life with blooming rhododendrons, magnolias, and jacarandas, painting the hillsides in shades of pink, red, and white. The weather is mild and pleasant, with temperatures ranging between 15°C and 25°C in the daytime. The skies are usually clear, offering perfect views of the Himalayas. This season is also filled with cultural festivals such as the famous Paro Tshechu, which gives travellers a wonderful insight into Bhutan’s traditional dance and spiritual heritage. It’s an excellent time for trekking, photography, and sightseeing as the natural landscape is at its most vibrant.
🌞 Summer (June to August)
Summer in Bhutan coincides with the monsoon season, bringing lush greenery and frequent rainfall, particularly in the southern and central regions. While this can make trekking more challenging, it is still a peaceful time to visit as there are fewer tourists. The countryside is at its greenest, and the air feels fresh and pure. Rain showers are often short-lived and mostly occur in the afternoons or evenings, leaving the mornings clear for exploration. For those interested in the flora and fauna of Bhutan, this season offers a chance to see rare orchids and butterflies in full display. However, mountain views may be limited due to mist and cloud cover.
🍁 Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is considered the most popular and rewarding time to visit Bhutan. The monsoon rains fade away, leaving behind crisp, clear skies and cool temperatures ranging from 10°C to 20°C. The landscape is lush after the rains, and the air clarity makes it ideal for mountain photography and long treks. This is also the season of some of the most significant festivals, such as the Thimphu and Wangdue Tshechus, which attract both locals and travellers. Trekking routes like the Druk Path and Jomolhari are at their best, offering stunning views of the snow-capped peaks. If you want the perfect balance between pleasant weather, cultural richness, and scenic beauty, autumn is hard to beat.
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winter in Bhutan is cold, especially in the higher regions, but it is also peaceful and remarkably clear. In western and central Bhutan, temperatures can drop below freezing at night, though the days are often sunny and bright. It’s an excellent season for visiting the lower valleys such as Punakha and Phobjikha, where the famous black-necked cranes migrate for the winter. This is also a good time for photography and temple visits, as the skies are deep blue and the tourist crowds are minimal. However, trekking in high mountain areas is generally not advised due to snow and icy conditions.
🎒 What to Pack
No matter when you visit Bhutan, layering is key. Pack light, breathable clothes for daytime, and warm layers for the evenings, especially if you are visiting high-altitude areas. A good waterproof jacket is essential during the monsoon months and useful year-round due to unpredictable weather in the mountains. Comfortable walking shoes or boots are a must, as most sightseeing involves gentle hikes or uneven terrain. Sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat are recommended for the strong mountain sun. In winter, include thermal wear, gloves, and a warm hat. A small backpack for day trips and a refillable water bottle will also come in handy.
📅 Seasonal Summary Chart
| Season | Months | Weather | Highlights | Ideal For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mar–May | Mild & colourful | Flower blooms, Paro Tshechu | Trekking, culture, photography |
| 🌞 Summer | Jun–Aug | Warm, rainy, lush | Green landscapes, few tourists | Nature, quiet retreats |
| 🍁 Autumn | Sep–Nov | Cool & clear | Major festivals, mountain views | Trekking, sightseeing |
| ❄️ Winter | Dec–Feb | Cold & sunny | Black-necked cranes, peace & solitude | Birdwatching, photography |
🌄 Overall Best Time to Visit Bhutan
The overall best time to visit Bhutan is from late September to November. During these months, the skies are clear, the weather is comfortable, and the scenery is at its most spectacular. It’s also the prime time for experiencing Bhutan’s most vibrant festivals and enjoying treks with breathtaking Himalayan views. However, if you prefer fewer crowds and blooming landscapes, spring (March to May) is a close second and equally magical in its own way.