Bhutan: The Tiger’s Nest

April 1, 2024
Bhutan
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Paro Taktsang་, also known as the Tiger's Nest, is a sacred Vajrayana Himalayan Buddhist site located in the cliffside of the upper Paro valley in Bhutan. It is one of thirteen Tiger's Nest caves in historical Tibet in which Padmasambhava practiced and taught Vajrayana

It was an early rise for us so we could reach the trailhead for Tiger’s Nest ahead of the crowds and before the heat of the day set in. Not that it was likely to get too hot.

Our guide Sangay and our driver Dawa met us at the hotel and drove 30 minutes from the hotel to the start of the trail. A visit to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery is the most popular and iconic thing for tourists to do when they visit Bhutan, which guarantees you’ll be sharing the trail with quite a few people. Coming to visit the Tiger’s Nest Monastery was probably the one thing that drew me to Bhutan and was somewhere I was really looking forward to visiting.

Built in the late 17th century on the site of a cave located in a cliff, 3,000 metres above the Paro valley, teeters the Paro Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest Monastery). Although we call it the Tiger’s Nest in English, Taktsang more accurately translates to “tigress’ lair” a name that it gained from its founding legend.

Sangay would be taking us on the hike, and for the occasion, he had swapped his formal shoes for a pair of hiking boots, although he was still wearing his traditional gho. After we parked up, we made our way towards the start of the trail passing a small collection of souvenir and craft stalls.

Once past the stalls, the walk begins slowly. Through the gate, we crossed a couple of fields up to the base of the cliff. Here the locals keep mules and horses which you can hire to carry you upwards on the path. The mules looked sad standing there, but they did look relatively healthy. A fair number of people use this option, but mules only take you up about halfway as it gets too steep beyond that point and having watched some people on the back of the mules along the trail it looked very uncomfortable and precarious!.

The Tiger’s Nest hike is not particularly difficult consisting of gradual inclines up the side of the cliff. There are some sections where it does get steep, and here the path starts to zig-zag between the trees to make the slope easier to climb.

Sangay had told us that during the Covid-19 pandemic, there was obviously no work for those working in the tourism industry. During this time the King of Bhutan gave money to many working in the industry to cover their home rental costs. Although not compulsory, the workers were expected to give something back. Sangay and dozens of his fellow guides spent several months working on rebuilding the paths up to the Tiger’s Nest. We were benefitting from all this hard work.

The altitude made the walking harder but having done a few treks in recent weeks we were acclimated to walking in the mountains. Sangay took Karen’s backpack for her, which made it easier. As usual, I found it easier, with my longer legs, to walk a bit quicker – leaving Karen further back with Sangay.

After about ninety minutes of climbing, I reached the rest stop that lies halfway along the Tiger’s Nest trek. Here, there are restrooms and an indoor seating area where you can get snacks and refreshments. It was a glorious day, so I found a place on a wall to cool down and wait for Karen and Sangay. From here there was a great view of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

When Karen and Sangay arrived, we stopped for about 10-15 minutes. Not wanting to stop for too long as the day was getting hotter, we were soon on our way again. There were still a few hundred metres to go before we reached the Tiger’s Nest, both up and down.

Leaving the rest stop there were a few steeper sections but eventually, the path became flat. The Tiger’s Nest disappeared from sight! I had got ahead again, so I made a couple of stops to catch some photos of the valley below and the collections of prayer flags.

After an hour or so of leaving the rest stop, I reached a viewpoint of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. It was sitting majestically below where I stood, just across a small valley. I waited for Karen and Sangay, gazing out, almost in disbelief that I was here, at the monastery.

From the viewing platform, there was a steep set of stairs downwards, which had a couple of more difficult sections. At the bottom of these stairs was a bridge across a ravine carved by a waterfall. We spent a few minutes catching our breath and admiring the views. From the bridge, there was a long set of stairs up to the monastery itself, which was a hard trudge, and with much relief, we finally passed through the gate into the monastery. The Bhutanese believe that just stepping over the threshold of the monastery will bring you blessings, so many enter with their hands in prayer.

Once inside the Tiger’s Nest, we handed over our cameras and phones and left our shoes at the entrance (you cannot take photos inside the monastery.)

Sangay took us around the Tiger’s Nest monastery complex, which is made up of several small temples. The building of this monastery was an incredible feat of human ingenuity and endeavour. One of the difficulties of building in such a location is getting materials there, consequently, much of the structure is made from wood. On April 19, 1998, a fire broke out in the main building of the monastery complex, which contained valuable paintings, artefacts, and statues. The fire is believed to have been caused by electrical short-circuiting or flickering butter lamps lighting the hanging tapestries. The reconstruction of the monastery was overseen by the Government of Bhutan and the then King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, which was reopened in 2005.

It was now time to go back down the mountain, which fortunately was mostly downhill. An hour and forty-five minutes later we were back down at the bottom. It had taken us less than five hours to complete our visit to the Tiger’s Nest – which Sangay told us was good going.

In Summary

A visit to the Tiger’s Nest in the most iconic thing to do during a visit to Bhutan. The trail itself is not too tricky but does require some level of fitness, but it is worth the effort as the scenery and the monastery are a sight to behold.

If you cannot make the hike then some mules can take you halfway to the rest stop where there are good views. We didn’t ride the mules ourselves, but watching those who did, be prepared for a bumpy ride!

Planning your visit to the Tiger’s Nest

How do I get to the trailhead?

The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is located 10 miles north of Paro (20 minutes by car), making Paro the perfect home base when making this visit. Since most people can only visit Bhutan on an organized tour, your transportation will be arranged for you.

How long and hard is the hike?

Distance: 6.4 km (4 miles) round trip
Total Ascent: 520 meters (1,700 feet)
Highest Elevation: 3,120 meters (10,232 feet)
Time: Allow 5 to 7 hours for the entire visit

The best time to visit Bhutan

The geographical position of Bhutan, nestled in the eastern Himalayas between China to the north and India to the south, plays a significant role in its climate and weather conditions. Contrary to the “ET” Köppen climate classification which corresponds to a Tundra Climate, Bhutan experiences a greater diversity in weather patterns due to its complex topography and altitude variations. Mean annual temperatures seldom dip below freezing, but regions with higher altitude can see large temperature ranges within a day. Precipitation, primarily rainfall, is moderate and most pronounced in the summer months with annual totals averaging 350mm (13.78″). During winter, drier conditions prevail, often with sporadic snowfall in the upper reaches. With days frequently cloudy, the country experiences temperatures from 15°C (59°F) to 18°C (64.4°F) in summers, although the average temperature of the warmest month is less than 10°C (50°F).

The best time to visit Bhutan

Spring and autumn, from March to May and September to November respectively, provide the most favourable periods to visit Bhutan. These seasons present pleasant weather, with temperatures ranging from 10°C (50°F) to 20°C (68°F), offering splendid panoramas of the mountains and lush valleys. Springtime is particularly vibrant, with blooming rhododendrons painting the landscapes, while autumn showcases clear skies and exquisite autumnal hues. These periods are also when the country hosts most of its significant religious festivals, enhancing the cultural experience for visitors.

The worst time to visit Bhutan

The least ideal time for a visit to Bhutan is the monsoon season, running from June to August. During this time, the country experiences heavy rainfall, leading to slippery roads and occasional landslides, which may hamper travel plans. The consistent cloud cover also limits the scenic views of the mountains and valleys. Additionally, temperatures tend to be high and humidity levels increase, reaching uncomfortable levels, particularly in the southern parts of the country.

Weather month-by-month

Visiting Bhutan December to February

From December to February Bhutan is at its coldest; especially in the mountains, but clear skies reward those who brave the low temperatures. The valleys are warmer and sunny with clear views of the incredible Himalaya. Due to colder temperatures, visitor numbers will be lower.

Visiting Bhutan March to April

March and April are among the most popular times to travel as temperatures are pleasant and the valleys are abundant in nature; especially as all the flowers start to bloom. Early April witnesses the Paro Tshechu, so book ahead to get the best accommodation and flights.

Holi festival is becoming more well-known around the world, but it isn’t just an Indian festival; it’s celebrated across the cities and towns of Nepal every March too.

Rhododendron season (March to May): Similar to Nepal, Bhutan’s landscapes are at their best at this time of year before the monsoon arrives, with colourful rhododendrons carpeting the hillsides.

Trekking in Bhutan (October to November and March to April): Trekking is a wonderful way to see the beautiful scenery of this wonderful, little-visited country. These months offer the best weather for mountain walks and overnight stays in characterful teahouses.

Visiting Bhutan in May

Temperatures increase in May, bringing humidity as well as cloud over the mountains. However, fewer visitors and lower prices can make it a perfectly viable time to visit. The rhododendrons should also still be in bloom — ideal for photographers and nature lovers.

Rhododendron season (March to May): Similar to Nepal, Bhutan’s landscapes are at their best at this time of year before the monsoon arrives, with colourful rhododendrons carpeting the hillsides.

Visiting Bhutan June to August

June to August (and sometimes into September) is monsoon season in Bhutan. Although showers can occur at night without spoiling daytime explorations, conditions aren’t ideal for trekking. Sightseeing is still possible — just be prepared with a raincoat! It’s also ideal for retreating to a spa. Views are best in the mornings following night-time downpours.

Visiting Bhutan in September

September, October and November are ideal for hiking, seeing festivals (particularly the popular Thimphu Tshechu) and enjoying stunning views and pleasant temperatures. Expect it to be around 25°C in the sun, but there will be cooler temperatures in the evenings and at higher altitudes.

Visiting Bhutan in October

The majority of travellers (around 80% of all international visitors) want to visit Bhutan in October, so plan well in advance to ensure you get your preferred accommodation and good value flights.

Visiting Bhutan in Nov

Black-necked cranes migrate from the Tibetan Plateau to the protected Phobjikha Valley each year. They remain in the region from late October to early February. In Gangtey, a special festival is held every November to celebrate the arrival of the birds. Plan ahead if you want to be a part of it.

Black-necked crane festival (November): These endangered birds migrate to spend each winter in the Phobjikha Valley. The festival celebrating their arrival takes place in the courtyard of Gangtey Gonpa to promote their conservation.