The Annual Black-necked Crane Festival is held every year on November 11th at Gangtey Gonpa, located in the Gangteng-Phobji Valley in Bhutan. The Black-necked crane is the only alpine crane species on the planet and is revered as a symbol of longevity in Bhutan.
It was very cold last night but the combination of duvets, blankets, hot water bottles and keeping our socks on had kept us nice and cosy. The small bedroom radiator had also taken the nip off the air. But the bathroom, which had no heating stayed very cold. So, I ran into the bathroom to turn on the shower to get the hot water coming through.
When I looked out the window everything was shrouded in a morning mist which left me wondering whether we’d see much at the black-necked crane festival later on.
By the time we’d both had our shower and got dressed things were brightening up outside as the mist was starting to lift. As we headed to breakfast, we were more hopeful that we’d get some decent weather for the festival.
They had lit a fire in the breakfast room which made it feel nice and toasty warm. The food was perfect. Karen got talking to the two ladies at the next table, who were from North Carolina, although one of them had moved to San Diego to escape the cold winters. Sammy (whose real name is Emily), who still lived in North Carolina, like us was a full-time traveller and a nomad.
After breakfast, we headed back to our room to pack up. By the time we were done Sangay, our guide, and Dawa, our driver, had arrived to transport us away.
Before heading to the festival at the temple, we went in search of some of the black-necked cranes that come to the valley in the autumn. From the global population of 11,000 Black-necked cranes, approximately 500 of them migrate every winter to the lower altitudes of Bhutan from the high Tibetan plateau. This medium-sized crane is mostly grey with a black head and neck.
We drove down one of the dirt roads which run across the marshy fields of the valley. In the distance, we could see several white blobs, which were the bodies of the black-necked crane but that was as close as we could get. If we tried to approach on foot to get a closer look we could have gotten into serious trouble, so we had to settle for this distant glimpse.
From the fields, we headed back along the road towards Gangtey. There were dozens of schoolchildren and adults on the road heading to the Gangteng Monastery, generally known as Gangtey Gonpa or Gangtey Monastery which is where the main festival activities were happening.
The Annual, Black-necked Crane Festival is a one-day event celebrated each year on 11th November. The first festival was held in November 1998, an initiative of the Royal Society for Protection of Nature, a national NGO, to raise awareness in the valley’s community of the black-necked cranes and the importance of protecting this endangered bird.
Dawa dropped us and Sangay off at the bottom of the road so we could walk up to the Gangtey Monastery, which is the largest in the region.
The festivities occur inside the monastery’s walls in the large courtyard. Seating had been set out, for the tourists. The local people had to sit on the ground, which did not feel quite right. In the centre of the courtyard was a large statue of a black-necked crane and next to it a smaller one. A large group of scouts were standing in lines on either side of these statues. They were schoolboys and girls of various ages. Karen finds it impossible to resist going to talk to scouts whenever we come across them, so she made a beeline in their direction. She found out that the scouts were affiliated with the schools which operate the programmes. On the far side of the courtyard from us was the main building of the temple complex, the entrance of which was covered by yellow and orange curtains. Every so often a young, bored scout or two would appear with a pompom and start waving their pompom or hitting a fellow scout with it.
Eventually, the festivities started with two long speeches, including one from the head guest who was the master monk of the monastery. We did not understand a word that was being said, but even the Bhutanese in the crowd seemed restless and not that interested. Once, the speeches were done there was a rendition of the National Anthem followed by another song which was led by the scouts standing in the courtyard. After this, they finally got to leave their position in the courtyard and went off to relax.
For the next two and a half hours we were enthralled by several dance and song performances from the local school children, ladies from the community and monks. The children had been practising for many months to perfect their moves, and you could see the concentration on their faces as they were determined to get it right.
As much as we loved watching the performances it was great to watch the locals in the crowd around us, especially the children. Some of them were being a little naughty, in a cute way. There was one little girl who was the star of the show and was continually teasing the young boys and mingling around the dancers as they were performing.
The most spectacular dances were performed by the monks. They wore brightly coloured costumes and in one of their dances, they covered their faces with scary-looking masks. These dances were very energetic with lots of twisting, twirling and leaps into the air.
There was one performance if you can call it that, which made both of us laugh. It was called the balloon fight. They got a dozen or so of the young children and tied balloons to their ankles. Once they were given the go, they had to run around and pop the other children’s balloons. It was hilarious. Some of the children had no idea and just stood there and watched while another child stamped on their balloon. Others were sneaky and were kicking their legs high to keep their balloons away. Some of the children got very upset and began crying when their balloons got popped. In the end, there were two boys left who were almost wrestling to get at the other’s balloon.
The main event of the festival celebrations was a dance performed by the schoolchildren dressed as black-necked cranes. It was mesmerising to watch the movements accompanying the sounds of cranes, and for a moment you could imagine you were watching cranes and not children. It was quite beautiful.
The festival was scheduled to go on well into the afternoon, but after the mask dance, we decided to leave. We’d been sitting in the shade the whole morning and were feeling chilled, so it was nice to get back into the car and warm up a bit.
In Summary
It was quite a drive to get to Gangtey from Paro, but it was a beautiful journey. The festival itself is a real spectacle and worth the effort of going.
At this time of year, it can be chilly in the high valleys, especially in the morning and in the shade. So bring some layers of clothing to put on and take off as needed.
The best time to visit Bhutan
The geographical position of Bhutan, nestled in the eastern Himalayas between China to the north and India to the south, plays a significant role in its climate and weather conditions. Contrary to the “ET” Köppen climate classification which corresponds to a Tundra Climate, Bhutan experiences a greater diversity in weather patterns due to its complex topography and altitude variations. Mean annual temperatures seldom dip below freezing, but regions with higher altitude can see large temperature ranges within a day. Precipitation, primarily rainfall, is moderate and most pronounced in the summer months with annual totals averaging 350mm (13.78″). During winter, drier conditions prevail, often with sporadic snowfall in the upper reaches. With days frequently cloudy, the country experiences temperatures from 15°C (59°F) to 18°C (64.4°F) in summers, although the average temperature of the warmest month is less than 10°C (50°F).
The best time to visit Bhutan
The worst time to visit Bhutan
From December to February Bhutan is at its coldest; especially in the mountains, but clear skies reward those who brave the low temperatures. The valleys are warmer and sunny with clear views of the incredible Himalaya. Due to colder temperatures, visitor numbers will be lower.
March and April are among the most popular times to travel as temperatures are pleasant and the valleys are abundant in nature; especially as all the flowers start to bloom. Early April witnesses the Paro Tshechu, so book ahead to get the best accommodation and flights.
- Holi festival is becoming more well-known around the world, but it isn’t just an Indian festival; it’s celebrated across the cities and towns of Nepal every March too.
- Rhododendron season (March to May): Similar to Nepal, Bhutan’s landscapes are at their best at this time of year before the monsoon arrives, with colourful rhododendrons carpeting the hillsides.
- Trekking in Bhutan (October to November and March to April): Trekking is a wonderful way to see the beautiful scenery of this wonderful, little-visited country. These months offer the best weather for mountain walks and overnight stays in characterful teahouses.
- Rhododendron season (March to May): Similar to Nepal, Bhutan’s landscapes are at their best at this time of year before the monsoon arrives, with colourful rhododendrons carpeting the hillsides.
- Trekking in Bhutan (October to November and March to April): Trekking is a wonderful way to see the beautiful scenery of this wonderful, little-visited country. These months offer the best weather for mountain walks and overnight stays in characterful teahouses.
- Black-necked crane festival (November): These endangered birds migrate to spend each winter in the Phobjikha Valley. The festival celebrating their arrival takes place in the courtyard of Gangtey Gonpa to promote their conservation.
- Trekking in Bhutan (October to November and March to April): Trekking is a wonderful way to see the beautiful scenery of this wonderful, little-visited country. These months offer the best weather for mountain walks and overnight stays in characterful teahouses.
Temperatures increase in May, bringing humidity as well as cloud over the mountains. However, fewer visitors and lower prices can make it a perfectly viable time to visit. The rhododendrons should also still be in bloom — ideal for photographers and nature lovers.
June to August (and sometimes into September) is monsoon season in Bhutan. Although showers can occur at night without spoiling daytime explorations, conditions aren’t ideal for trekking. Sightseeing is still possible — just be prepared with a raincoat! It’s also ideal for retreating to a spa. Views are best in the mornings following night-time downpours.
September, October and November are ideal for hiking, seeing festivals (particularly the popular Thimphu Tshechu) and enjoying stunning views and pleasant temperatures. Expect it to be around 25°C in the sun, but there will be cooler temperatures in the evenings and at higher altitudes.
The majority of travellers (around 80% of all international visitors) want to visit Bhutan in October, so plan well in advance to ensure you get your preferred accommodation and good value flights.
Black-necked cranes migrate from the Tibetan Plateau to the protected Phobjikha Valley each year. They remain in the region from late October to early February. In Gangtey, a special festival is held every November to celebrate the arrival of the birds. Plan ahead if you want to be a part of it.