It took us about two and a half hours to reach Davedi. We pulled off the main road and headed down a dusty and bumpy dirt track to a small compound where we were greeted by two young men: Mattieu and Maxim. Before heading into the main part of the village we sat under a shelter covered in the throngs of palm oil trees and were served fresh pineapple, one of the main crops of this area. It was delicious!
After finishing up on the pineapple we headed out on foot. Along the way, we stopped occasionally to learn more about local crops, such as palm oil trees and pineapples.
Ten minutes later we were in the heart of the village, which has about 3,000 people spread over a large area. We took a seat on a rustic bench in the shade of a big, old tree.
After a few minutes of us sitting down a lady joined us, carrying three small dolls, wrapped in a robe around her. She removed the dolls one by one and lay them gently on the ground on a cloth. Another lady joined us and between them, they disrobed the dolls and lovingly bathed and dried them before putting their clothes back on. They demonstrated great love towards these dolls as they followed this ritual. Afterwards, we were allowed to hold the dolls – it felt a very special moment!
In Togo, as well as in many parts of West Africa, twins are considered special and are often celebrated with unique cultural traditions. The people of Togo, including ethnic groups like the Ewe, have a strong cultural reverence for twins, and the birth of twins is considered an event of great significance.
Twins are believed to have spiritual power and are often considered to possess a unique connection to the divine. Some communities believe that twins are descendants of the gods or spirits and that they bring good fortune to the family.
There are special ceremonies and festivals that celebrate the birth of twins. These ceremonies may involve prayers, offerings, dances, and songs that are meant to honour the spirits and ensure the well-being of the twins.
In Ewe tradition, twins are considered to have a strong bond and are seen as complementary to each other. This bond is so important that some Ewe communities have “twin houses” where twins are treated with a sense of special care.
The death of a twin is treated with deep cultural and spiritual significance. The concept of a “dolla” is closely related to these beliefs and customs. The term “dolla” refers to a ritual or symbolic representation that is used in the case of the death of a twin.
A “dolla” (also referred to as a symbolic figure or doll) is often created in the memory of the deceased twin. This doll or figure is believed to represent the spirit of the lost twin. The doll is used in rituals that may involve ceremonies and prayers aimed at ensuring that the spirit of the deceased twin is properly honoured and that the living twin is protected from spiritual harm. The living twin, especially if they are the surviving member of a set of twins, may undergo a protective ritual that includes the doll. The doll acts as a symbolic substitute or representation of the lost twin, ensuring that the living twin is not spiritually harmed by the death.
The doll then choses who will care for it, this could be a family member or someone else in the community. The guardian of the twin then cares for the doll as if it were alive. The doll may be kept in the home, dressed, and treated with reverence.
Often, after the death of a twin, the surviving twin may undergo a new naming ritual. The name given could reflect the circumstances of the loss, and the surviving twin may be seen as having a special role in the family or community as a result of the tragic event.
We sadly had to leave this village and continue our journey onwards towards the Benin border.
Planning your visit
Getting There
By Air
- Most travellers arrive via Gnassingbé Eyadéma International Airport (LFW) in Lomé. From there, you can hire a car, arrange a private transfer, or take a shared taxi to Davedi.
- The drive from Lomé to Davedi can take between 1 and 2 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions.
By Road
- If you are already within West Africa, travelling by bus or shared taxi is common. Major bus lines connect Lomé to other West African capitals, and from Lomé, you can find frequent local transport heading into the interior.