The Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, located in Accra, Ghana, is a historical site dedicated to Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana's first President and a key figure in the country's independence movement, featuring his mausoleum, statues, and exhibits on his legacy.
Ghana: Tamale- Red Clay Studio
Our driver, Ben, had told us we were headed to a gallery called Red Clay. This did not excite me too much as I thought we’d be at the mercy of artists trying to sell us their work, but we had to go with the flow.
Red Clay Studio turned out to be one of the biggest surprises of our tour so far. The studio sits in a large area outside the city. There were several identical structures, about 40 metres by 20 metres and 30 metres high. They were constructed from brick columns with brick walls in between that had holes in to the outside world. The roofs had metal frames and tin roofs. The structures were very contemporary. About 10 had already been completed but there were several at an earlier stage of building.
Red Clay Studio is a dynamic art space established by internationally acclaimed Ghanaian artist Ibrahim Mahama. Inaugurated on September 5, 2020, this expansive complex serves multiple purposes, including exhibitions, workshops, film screenings, and community engagements.
The studio’s name, “Red Clay,” is inspired by the distinctive burnt-umber earth of northern Ghana, reflecting a deep connection to the local environment. The architecture of the complex is notable for its use of locally sourced red bricks, creating a visually striking and contextually relevant aesthetic.
We were introduced to a young man who was going to be our guide around the spaces.
The first gallery we entered was dedicated to a famous Ghanaian photographer called James Barnor. Barnor is in his 90s and lives in Kent in the UK, but he was very much part of the history of Ghana during the time of its independence. There were some examples of Barnor’s work on display and a video of him talking about his past life in Ghana. Not everything in this gallery was the work of James Garner, there were a couple of large installations by Ibrahim Mahama – who likes to use recycled materials. One of these artworks was a collection of very old-looking stretchers stacked up along the wall. The more impressive installation though was a huge stack of wooden boxes, mixed in with some random items like Minnie Mouse and ice skates. The light coming in through the windows just below the roof made it look amazing.
From this Barnor exhibition, we moved to another space that is supposedly used for storage of artefacts, but we found it fascinating. In the centre of the room were a couple of classic motorbikes and an old aircraft engine. Along the side of the room were shelves and document storage cabinets. The things here were largely from the 50s through the 70s and included household items such as dial telephones, irons and old radios and documents including maps, school notebooks and written government records. One man’s rubbish is another man’s treasure! And for me these were treasures.
The next gallery space was divided into two halves, on one side was a single large installation that represented a futuristic nautical vessel and the second was a display of contemporary art from an artist called Jojo Abdallah, who suffers from schizophrenia and is in a mental institution. His work was simple but thought thought-provoking.
Our guide took us to another space called “The Parliament of Ghosts,” an installation that reconstructs a parliamentary chamber using repurposed materials, including 120 second-class train seats. This work invites reflection on historical narratives and the passage of time. Today, it is used as a meeting space.
We left the main cluster of buildings and headed across towards another area. Our guide explained Ibrahim Mahama’s vision was to build a school, a cinema, a greenhouse and a brick factory – and that is just the beginning. As we approached another completed building, I noticed a pile of old electricity transformers – I asked about the plan for those, and our guide said they were for a future art installation.
When we entered the building, we were stunned. It was a large space, and the floor was filled with old sewing machines mounted on school desks. At the front of the room, there were chalkboards along the whole wall, from floor to ceiling. Our guide asked us to press one of the sewing machine pedals at the front of the room – and one of the sewing machines in the cluster began to operate. Although it was only one machine it filled the room with the sound of its needle arm clattering. I loved this installation!
Beyond its indoor spaces, Red Clay Studio houses an intriguing collection of British colonial-era trains and Soviet-era planes, acquired through Ghana’s Ministry of Railway Development and private owners. These artefacts have been transformed into educational spaces and libraries, providing unique learning environments for visitors. There is also a plan to build a café and also to convert some of the carriages into accommodation for paying guests.
I found the Red Clay studio fascinating – it is the sort of project that gets me excited! My expectations coming here were very low, but they were exceeded by some margin.
It was time to leave Tamale and head further west to Mole National Park.
Planning your visit
1. By Air:
- Domestic Flights: If you’re traveling within Ghana, you can fly to Tamale Airport (TML) from Kotoka International Airport (ACC) in Accra. Several local airlines like PassionAir and Africa World Airlines operate flights between Accra and Tamale, which typically take about 1 hour.
2. By Bus:
- Long-Distance Buses: If you prefer traveling by land, there are several long-distance bus companies operating routes between Accra and Tamale. The journey takes about 10-12 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. Some popular bus companies include:
- STC (State Transport Corporation)
- VIP Transport
- Intercity STC
- OA Transport
The buses are generally comfortable, with air-conditioning and rest stops along the way.
3. By Car:
- Self-Drive or Hire a Car: If you’re driving from Accra or other parts of Ghana, you can take the N6 road, which is the main highway that connects southern Ghana to the northern regions. The road is well-paved, though it can be a long drive (roughly 10-12 hours depending on your starting point).
- Hiring a Car or Taxi: Alternatively, you could hire a car or a taxi to take you to Tamale if you prefer a more private mode of transport.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Tamale, Ghana, is during the dry season, which typically runs from November to April. During these months, you can expect sunny days with little to no rainfall, making it perfect for outdoor activities and exploring the region.
The peak months for tourism are usually December to February, as the weather is comfortably warm, but not overly hot. However, it can get quite warm, especially between March and April, so if you prefer slightly cooler temperatures, visiting earlier in the dry season would be ideal.
If you’re interested in experiencing local culture and events, consider timing your visit to coincide with festivals like the Damba Festival, which typically happens in April or May, though the exact dates can vary.
Where to stay in Tamale
1. Parkside Hotel
- Type: Mid-range
- Features: Known for its clean rooms, great service, and modern amenities. It offers comfortable rooms with air conditioning, a pool, and restaurant options.
2. The A-Lodge Hotel
- Type: Budget to mid-range
- Features: A welcoming and affordable place to stay, offering both local and international food options. It’s known for friendly staff and a cozy atmosphere.
3. Zaina Lodge
- Type: High-end
- Features: This luxurious lodge is located just outside Tamale in the beautiful Mole National Park. It’s an excellent choice if you’re looking for a more upscale experience with breathtaking views and proximity to nature.
4. Tamale Royal Hotel
- Type: Mid-range
- Features: A solid choice with great facilities, including a swimming pool, gym, and restaurant. The hotel is in a good location for exploring the city.
5. Ramada Resort by Wyndham
- Type: High-end
- Features: This international brand hotel provides luxurious accommodations and amenities, such as a pool, conference rooms, and fine dining options.
6. Northern Star Hotel
- Type: Budget to mid-range
- Features: A popular spot for both locals and visitors. It offers affordable rates, clean rooms, and good local food.
7. Tamale Central Lodge
- Type: Budget
- Features: Simple, no-frills accommodation with friendly service, ideal for those on a tight budget who don’t need luxury.
8. Gaddiel Hotel
- Type: Mid-range
- Features: Well-regarded for its service and convenience. It offers spacious rooms and basic amenities for business or leisure travelers.
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