We had signed up for an early morning walking safari. Walking is not too dangerous as there are no big cats in the park, but elephants are around – and they can be extremely dangerous. You are not allowed to wander around the park on your own. So, for our walking safari, we had a Ranger called Robert, who brought along his rifle. Another two tourists, an aunt and niece from Germany, were walking with us.
This was the start of our exploration of Mole National Park which stretches well over 4577 km2 and is patrolled by over 180 Rangers and Forest guards. It has 94 animal species and some 344 bird and 33 reptilian species. Its vegetation is of the Guinea Savannah woodland variety and comprises about 740 different species of plants and trees.
Our walk started right by the hotel. We had already seen some warthogs and bushbuck antelopes right outside of the rooms, so the wildlife here is not very afraid of people, which is not necessarily a good thing as poaching is still an issue in the National Park. Our path followed one of the roads and we had not gone too far before one of the staff from the hotel signalled to Robert that there was an elephant in the bush. So, we quickly made our way to where he had pointed, and there in the forest was a solitary male elephant. We learned his name was Nash, and he often frequented this area. Robert led us into the bush to get closer, and we ended up being no more than 100m from Nash – who did not seem bothered by our presence. For the next 20 minutes, we followed Nash around, and eventually, he left the forest and crossed the road – perhaps drawn by a tasty-looking tree on the other side. By this time other visitors in game drive vehicles had turned up, so our peaceful time with Nash was at an end – so Robert led us away to continue our exploration.
The Mole Motel is up on a ridge above the man-made watering hole, and that is where we were headed next. When we arrived, there was not much to see – no elephants or antelope. Robert explained that there were plenty of crocodiles who call the watering hole home – and they can often be seen on the banks, but not today – but after a bit of looking around we spotted the eyes of the crocodiles peaking out of the water.
We left the waterhole, crossed a couple of the streams that feed it, and entered some savannah land. In the distance, we could see some green monkeys running on the ground. Most of what we saw here was birdlife, there was a brightly coloured kingfisher, a red-throated bee-eater and a flock of long-tailed paradise whyders, which Robert said he had never seen such a large group. Also close by were a few vultures patiently waiting for their opportunity high up in a tree. I moved through the bush to get a better view, only to end up with thorns from one of the bushes sticking from my head and hands!
Our tour was done, so Robert led us along a path that took us back to the motel.
For the next few hours, we rested up, and then late afternoon we went back to the Ranger station for an afternoon game drive. Once again Robert was to be our guide.
We started out going through a compound close to the motel, which looked like an abandoned army base – but this is where the staff of Mole National Park live, which was a bit depressing. The presence of people here seems to attract the wildlife, as we saw many warthogs, bushbucks and olive baboons right next to the camp.
From the camp, we headed deeper into the park. We didn’t get too far before we pulled up behind another game drive vehicle that had stopped to watch two male elephants in the forest. For the next few minutes, we watched these magnificent creatures crash their way through the undergrowth. Robert wanted us to push on deeper into the park, so we left the elephants behind and drove on.
The forest was very dry and there was a lot of evidence of fires – we were not sure whether these were natural wildfires or done by the Rangers as controlled burns. Whatever the cause it was an ugly scar on the landscape. For the next 90 minutes, we drove around not spotting much of anything. I don’t know what the density of antelopes is in Mole but cannot be anything like what they have in the parks in East Africa, where you see antelopes and other wildlife everywhere. Just as we turned around to head back, Robert spotted a couple of young Hartebeest skipping through the long grass. They were hard to keep up with and difficult to spot in the fading light – but eventually, they stopped at some distance away from where we were to take one last look at us before disappearing into the forest.
We have been on many game drives, and we realise that there are no guarantees as to what you will see along the way, so we never get disappointed, and it was great to be out in the forest. That said we would say that coming to Mole should not be the major focus of coming to visit Ghana!
Planning your visit
By Road
Most visitors travel to Mole National Park by road, starting from major cities such as Accra, Kumasi, or Tamale.
From Tamale (Closest City):
- Distance: ~140 km (~87 miles).
- Time: Approximately 2-3 hours.
- Route: Take a bus or taxi heading towards Larabanga or Damongo, both of which are close to Mole National Park.
- Transportation Options:
- Public Bus: STC or Metro Mass buses operate from Tamale to Damongo.
- Private Car: You can hire a taxi or private vehicle for more convenience.
From Accra:
- Distance: ~670 km (~416 miles).
- Time: Approximately 12-15 hours.
- Route: Travel via Kumasi to Tamale, then proceed to Mole.
- Options:
- Direct Bus: Companies like VIP Jeoun or STC have buses to Tamale.
- Flight + Road: Fly from Accra to Tamale, then continue by road.
From Kumasi:
- Distance: ~400 km (~249 miles).
- Time: Approximately 8-10 hours.
- Route: Travel through Tamale for the final stretch to Mole.
- Transportation: Buses and shared taxis are available.
By Air
- Closest Airport: Tamale Airport (TML).
- From Tamale, you can arrange road transport (taxis, buses, or private vehicles) to the park.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Mole National Park in Ghana is during the dry season, which typically runs from November to early April. Here’s why this period is ideal:
- Wildlife Viewing: Animals gather around waterholes during the dry season, making it easier to spot elephants, antelopes, baboons, and other wildlife.
- Clear Weather: The dry season features less rainfall, providing clear skies and more comfortable conditions for safaris and exploration.
- Easier Access: Roads and trails are more navigable, reducing the likelihood of disruptions caused by muddy or flooded paths.
If you prefer fewer crowds and don’t mind occasional rain, the shoulder months of late October or early May can also be good times to visit. However, wildlife spotting might be less predictable.
Where to stay in Mole National Park
1. Zaina Lodge
As West Africa’s first luxury safari lodge, Zaina Lodge provides 25 individual, fully air-conditioned tented chalets. Each chalet features private baths and both indoor and outdoor showers. The lodge boasts a swimming pool, restaurant, and bar, all overlooking two waterholes frequented by elephants, antelopes, and crocodiles. For more information or to book your stay, visit their official website:
2. Mole Motel
Situated within the park, Mole Motel offers 34 rooms, including chalets, single, double, and family rooms. The motel overlooks an elephant bath and provides amenities such as a restaurant and bar. Accommodation options range from fan-cooled rooms to air-conditioned chalets. For details on room rates and reservations, check their website:
3. Camping in the Park
For a more adventurous experience, Mole National Park has a public campsite near the Park Headquarters, close to Mole Motel. The campsite offers designated open spaces for tents, with bathroom and toilet facilities within walking distance of the Information Centre. Tents and mosquito nets can be rented from the Information Centre for a nominal fee. Camping rates are GHS 15.00 per person, per night. More information can be found here: