Hoblets On The Go

Ghana: Mole – Larabanga Ancient Mosque

Shortly before reaching Mole National Park, we made a final stop at Larabanga Mosque, located in a village of the same name.

We had a local guide who took us around the outside of the mosque, which is modest in size but is very interesting to look at. It is very different from any other mosque we had seen during our visit to this part of West Africa.

The Mosque is one of the most iconic landmarks in Ghana. It’s considered one of the oldest mosques in West Africa, believed to have been built in the 15th century, around 1421, and is often referred to as the “Mecca of West Africa.” The mosque’s unique architectural style is characterised by traditional Sudanese mud architecture, with its whitewashed walls and wooden beams, making it distinctively beautiful.

The legend says that a Mallam (Muslim scholar) named Alhaji Ibrahim was the founder of both the mosque and the village of Larabanga. The story goes that Alhaji Ibrahim was on a journey and, after praying, he had a vision or dream that instructed him to build a mosque at the site where the Larabanga Mosque now stands. This location was significant because it was on the edge of the vast Mole Forest, and the area was already frequented by traders, travellers, and other Muslims.

We stood in the shade of a baobab tree that seemingly grows out from under the mosque. The tree is 500 years old and represents the spirit of Alhaji Ibrahim. Rumour has it that he asked his descendants to bury him in the premises of the mosque within three days. And promised that the tree would grow on top of his grave to serve as a source of food for them. So, when this tree produces more leaves, the community harvest them and shares them among the heads of the twelve clans of Larabanga and they dry and store them. The leaves are made into a soup which is given to members of the community.

Our guide also told us about the ‘mystic stone’ which is located about 500m from where we were standing. The stone is known to return to its original place of rest after several attempts to move it to a different location. In the 1950s, some British road constructors were compelled to redirect a major road after 3 attempts to remove the stone. Since all efforts proved futile in moving it from its original location, the legendary rock was left at its place of rest, and it is now conserved as a tourist site.

Planning your visit 

By Road

Most visitors travel to Mole National Park by road, starting from major cities such as Accra, Kumasi, or Tamale.

  1. From Tamale (Closest City):

    • Distance: ~140 km (~87 miles).
    • Time: Approximately 2-3 hours.
    • Route: Take a bus or taxi heading towards Larabanga or Damongo, both of which are close to Mole National Park.
    • Transportation Options:
      • Public Bus: STC or Metro Mass buses operate from Tamale to Damongo.
      • Private Car: You can hire a taxi or private vehicle for more convenience.
  2. From Accra:

    • Distance: ~670 km (~416 miles).
    • Time: Approximately 12-15 hours.
    • Route: Travel via Kumasi to Tamale, then proceed to Mole.
    • Options:
      • Direct Bus: Companies like VIP Jeoun or STC have buses to Tamale.
      • Flight + Road: Fly from Accra to Tamale, then continue by road.
  3. From Kumasi:

    • Distance: ~400 km (~249 miles).
    • Time: Approximately 8-10 hours.
    • Route: Travel through Tamale for the final stretch to Mole.
    • Transportation: Buses and shared taxis are available.

By Air

  • Closest Airport: Tamale Airport (TML).
  • From Tamale, you can arrange road transport (taxis, buses, or private vehicles) to the park.

The best time to visit 

The best time to visit Mole National Park in Ghana is during the dry season, which typically runs from November to early April. Here’s why this period is ideal:

  1. Wildlife Viewing: Animals gather around waterholes during the dry season, making it easier to spot elephants, antelopes, baboons, and other wildlife.
  2. Clear Weather: The dry season features less rainfall, providing clear skies and more comfortable conditions for safaris and exploration.
  3. Easier Access: Roads and trails are more navigable, reducing the likelihood of disruptions caused by muddy or flooded paths.

If you prefer fewer crowds and don’t mind occasional rain, the shoulder months of late October or early May can also be good times to visit. However, wildlife spotting might be less predictable.

Where to stay in Mole National Park

1. Zaina Lodge
As West Africa’s first luxury safari lodge, Zaina Lodge provides 25 individual, fully air-conditioned tented chalets. Each chalet features private baths and both indoor and outdoor showers. The lodge boasts a swimming pool, restaurant, and bar, all overlooking two waterholes frequented by elephants, antelopes, and crocodiles. For more information or to book your stay, visit their official website:

2. Mole Motel
Situated within the park, Mole Motel offers 34 rooms, including chalets, single, double, and family rooms. The motel overlooks an elephant bath and provides amenities such as a restaurant and bar. Accommodation options range from fan-cooled rooms to air-conditioned chalets. For details on room rates and reservations, check their website:

3. Camping in the Park
For a more adventurous experience, Mole National Park has a public campsite near the Park Headquarters, close to Mole Motel. The campsite offers designated open spaces for tents, with bathroom and toilet facilities within walking distance of the Information Centre. Tents and mosquito nets can be rented from the Information Centre for a nominal fee. Camping rates are GHS 15.00 per person, per night. More information can be found here:

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