Ghana: Dagomba village visit

Tamale, the bustling capital of the Northern Region of Ghana, is a vibrant and rapidly growing city known for its rich culture and warm hospitality. As the largest city in northern Ghana, it serves as a vital hub for commerce, education, and politics. Tamale boasts a unique blend of traditional and modern lifestyles, with its streets adorned with motorcycles and lively markets offering a variety of goods, from handmade crafts to fresh produce. The city is predominantly populated by the Dagomba people, whose rich traditions and festivals, such as the Damba Festival, add a colourful tapestry to its cultural landscape.

We were going to visit a Dagomba village on the outskirts of the city. Tamale is growing so fast that many of these once-remote villages in the savannah are now being gobbled up by the expansion of the city. In a few years, it will become hard to find Dagomba people living their traditional lifestyle.

The Dagomba people are a prominent ethnic group primarily located in the Northern Region of Ghana, with their capital at Tamale. They are part of the Mole-Dagbani ethnic group and speak Dagbani, a Gur language. Known for their rich history and cultural heritage, the Dagomba trace their origins to the 15th century with the establishment of the Dagbon Kingdom, founded by their legendary ancestor, Naa Gbewaa. The kingdom is highly centralized, with the Yaa Naa, the paramount chief, residing at the historic seat of Yendi. The Dagomba have a strong oral tradition, and their history is preserved through the griots, known as “lunsi,” who recount epic tales and genealogies through drumming and storytelling.

Culturally, the Dagomba are deeply rooted in agriculture, with millet, sorghum, and yams being staple crops. Their society is hierarchical and organised around extended families and clans, each with specific roles in governance and rituals. Islam is the predominant religion among the Dagomba, introduced through trade and interactions with North African merchants. Festivals such as the Damba Festival play a significant role in their cultural calendar, blending Islamic influences with traditional practices. The Dagomba are also known for their distinctive music, dance, and attire, which reflect their identity and pride in their heritage.

We met our guide, who would be escorting us around the village and explaining the context. He took us to one of the Dagomba compounds.

The compounds are formed with mud houses connected by a protective mud wall. The huts are either round or square with thatched, grass roofs. The round houses are the domain of the women, and the square ones are occupied by the men. The head male has his own house, and his wives live separately in their round houses, along with the younger children. The older children live together in houses depending on their sex. As the family unit grows can be expanded. There are also some rooms set aside for storage, and one larger hut that has two doors – one from the compound and the other to the outside world. This is where the family has meetings, cooks when it rains, and the head of the family can greet visitors.