The Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, located in Accra, Ghana, is a historical site dedicated to Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana's first President and a key figure in the country's independence movement, featuring his mausoleum, statues, and exhibits on his legacy.
Ghana: Castles and Forts of Ghana
Ghana’s coastline is dotted with numerous forts and castles that were established by European powers between 1482 and 1786. These structures served as trading posts and played significant roles during the era of the Atlantic slave trade. Recognising their historical importance, UNESCO designated a collection of these edifices as World Heritage Sites in 1979, under the title “Forts and Castles, Volta, Greater Accra, Central and Western Regions.”
Included in scope of this UNESCO World Heritage List inscription are 3 Castle and 15 forts. We were lucky enough to visit two of these during our visit to Ghana; Elmina Castle and Cape Coast Caslte.
St. George’s d’Elmina Castle
When we arrived in Elmina we headed straight for the castle. Before starting our tour, we had time to visit the small museum, which is located in the former church, built by the Portuguese inside the castle. It was a great introduction to the history of Elmina Castle.
Elmina Fort, officially known as St. George’s Castle, was built by the Portuguese in 1482. Known as São Jorge da Mina, it served as a central hub for gold trading between Europeans and local African merchants. The Portuguese built the fort using European architectural techniques, blending them with local materials, and it quickly became a symbol of their dominance in West Africa.
In 1637, the Dutch seized Elmina Fort from the Portuguese during their broader campaign to wrest control of West African trade routes. Under the Dutch, the fort’s purpose shifted significantly. It became a central hub in the transatlantic slave trade, where enslaved Africans were captured, imprisoned, and shipped to the Americas. The dungeons of the fort, which held men and women in appalling conditions, remain a harrowing reminder of this dark chapter in human history.
Elmina Fort operated as a critical node in the slave trade for over two centuries, facilitating the forced migration of thousands of Africans. The inhumane conditions, the separation of families, and the physical and psychological abuse experienced by those held there have left an indelible mark on the history of the fort and the African diaspora.
In 1872, the British took control of Elmina Fort as part of their expansion of colonial territories in the Gold Coast. By this time, the transatlantic slave trade had officially been abolished, and the fort’s use shifted toward administrative purposes under British colonial rule. It became a symbol of British dominance in the region and played a role in the administration of the Gold Coast Colony.
After Ghana gained independence in 1957, Elmina Fort was preserved as a national monument. Recognizing its historical and cultural significance, UNESCO designated the fort as a World Heritage Site in 1979, as part of the “Forts and Castles, Volta, Greater Accra, Central, and Western Regions” group.
After our self-guided tour around the museum, we met up with Richard, who was to be our guide around the castle, and some other tourists.
From the forecourt of the castle, we head through a door with a sign above it, ‘Male Slave Dungeon’. Inside we found ourselves in small chambers, that were about 4m wide by about 40m long. Up to 200 male slaves would have been held here in atrocious conditions. There were five such chambers inside Elmina Castle. We later visited similar dungeons for the women. Men, women, and children were held in the dark, in these overcrowded dungeons, often without sufficient air, food, or water, for weeks or even months before being shipped across the Atlantic. Disease, starvation, and physical abuse were rampant, and conditions were deliberately designed to break the spirits of the captives. Women were particularly vulnerable, frequently subjected to sexual violence by European officers and traders. Punishment for resistance or defiance was harsh, ranging from brutal beatings to confinement in even more horrific isolation cells.
It was a relief to escape the dungeons – we can only imagine how horrendous it must have been for those poor people trapped inside.
We climbed the stairs to the upper levels of the castle. The officials, including the military and clergymen, would have occupied these areas. There is not much to see apart from empty rooms – no period artefacts remain. The very top of the castle was reserved for the governor. There were several large rooms for his personal use – and they had the best views..
The rest of our tour took us outside the building on the upper floor to the battlements, where cannons lined the ramparts to ward off attacks from the sea. There were also some fantastic views of the sea and of Elmira.
Cape Coast Castle
The initial structure on the site of Cape Coast Castle was built by Swedish traders in 1653. It was primarily a wooden trading post named “Carolusborg.” Over the years, the fort underwent numerous reconstructions and expansions. The English seized it in 1665 and developed it into a stone castle, significantly expanding its size and defences.
The castle initially served as a hub for gold and timber trading. However, it later became one of the most infamous centres of the transatlantic slave trade. The castle was also a residence for European officials and merchants. The stark contrast between their quarters and the dungeons underscored the brutality of the system.
Cape Coast Castle became the headquarters of the British colonial administration on the Gold Coast (now Ghana). It remained a key administrative and trade centre until the capital was moved to Accra in 1877.
The castle fell into disrepair after its active use declined but was later restored in the mid-20th century. Today, it is a museum and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, serving as a powerful reminder of the atrocities of the slave trade and the resilience of the African diaspora.
Our tour was very similar to the one that we had the previous day at Elmina Castle – starting inside a small museum which provided an overview of the castle’s history.
Once we’d finished with the museum, we met up with our tour guide Belinda – who was amazing.
We entered the male dungeon, which was dark and gloomy. There were five small chambers, each of which could hold up to 200 men, who could be waiting there for 2 to 3 months before being shipped on ships across the Atlantic Ocean to the New World. The conditions were horrendous, with overcrowding, lack of ventilation, and poor sanitation. Many captives perished before they could be shipped, their bodies bundled into sacks and thrown into the sea. None of the slaves were treated with dignity.
The last chamber was where the slaves were brought for selection. The sick and weak were taken away to a horrible end and the rest were sent through a tunnel that took them to the ‘Door of No Return’ and onto a ship. Today, the entrance to the tunnel is sealed over – this was done on the orders of the British Governor when slavery was finally abolished.
We exited the dungeons and climbed the stairs to the upper floors where the administration, military commanders, businessmen and clergy had their rooms. They obviously had very different living spaces than the poor, humiliated slaves. The contrast is stark, and no more so than visiting the quarters of the Governor.
From the upstairs rooms, we climbed back down to the forecourt of the Castle, to the Women’s Dungeons. There were only two rooms as there were not as many women were taken, but their conditions were equally disgusting. The rooms were unsanitary – and no provision was made for menstruation – so the floors were often soaked in blood and other bodily fluids. The women’s dungeons did have a window, this was so the dignitaries could come and choose the women they wished to rape. Those women who refused were beaten and tortured until they inevitably submitted. Women who got pregnant were removed from the dungeons and sent to quarters in the town. Once their children were born, they were separated – the children brought up and educated, often becoming slave masters themselves – while their mothers were returned to the slave dungeons to await their fate. Barbaric!
Close to the Women’s dungeon was the ‘Door of No Return’ which we passed through. Today, the sea has receded, so it no longer laps up against the castle wall, but it was still salutary to be standing where so many people took their last steps on the soil of their homeland.
Our tour was done, so we were free to wander around and take some more photos.
Planning your visit
Getting There
- You can take a taxi (10-15 minutes) or a tro-tro to Elmina town.
By Car/Taxi:
- The fastest and most comfortable way to get to Elmina and Cape Coast Castles is by private car or taxi.
- The journey takes about 2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on traffic.
- You can follow the N1 highway west toward Cape Coast and then take the road to Elmina.
- There are road signs directing you to the castle.
- Elmina Castle is about 15 km (9 miles) from Cape Coast.
By Bus/Tro-Tro:
- Head to Kaneshie or Circle Transport Stations in Accra.
- Board a bus or tro-tro (shared minibus) heading to Cape Coast.
- Once in Cape Coast, take a short taxi or tro-tro ride (about 15-20 minutes) to Elmina.
By Private Tour:
- Many travel companies in Accra offer day trips to Cape Coast and Elmina Castle.
- These tours typically include transportation, entry fees, and a guide.From Elmina town, it’s a short walk to the castle.
- You can take a taxi (10-15 minutes) or a tro-tro to Elmina town.
Opening Hours
- The castle is open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM.
- 50 to 80 Cidis
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Elmina Castle and Cape Coast Castle in Ghana depends on the weather, crowd levels, and cultural events. Here are the key factors to consider:
Best Time to Visit:
Dry Season (November to March) – Best Weather
- The weather is dry and sunny with minimal rainfall.
- Ideal for exploring the castles and taking in the coastal scenery.
- Comfortable conditions for photography and historical tours.
July and August – Cultural and Festival Season
- The Bakatue Festival (first Tuesday of July) is celebrated in Elmina to mark the beginning of the fishing season.
- The Panafest & Emancipation Day celebrations (late July to early August) attract people from around the world to honor African heritage and the transatlantic slave trade history.
- This is an excellent time to experience cultural activities alongside the historical tour.
Times to Avoid or Consider:
- Rainy Season (April to June & September to October)
- Heavy rains may make the visit less enjoyable, and the ocean views may be cloudy.
- Peak Tourist Times (December & August)
- Crowds increase, especially during holidays and festival periods.
Best Days & Time of Day to Visit:
- Weekdays (Monday – Friday) to avoid large crowds.
- Morning Hours (8 AM – 11 AM) to enjoy cooler temperatures and better lighting for photos.
Where to stay in Elmina
Golden Hill Parker Hotel
The Golden Hill Parker Hotel, established in 2014, is a 4-star hillside retreat located on the highest peak of Bantuma village hills in Elmina, Ghana. The hotel offers 18 stylish accommodations, including Deluxe and Superior rooms, providing guests with a 360° view of Elmina’s historic Castle, Forts, and the surrounding area.
Amenities at the hotel include fine dining, a large swimming pool, a restaurant, and beautiful grounds. Guests can enjoy free breakfast, Wi-Fi, and parking during their stay
More to Explore
