The Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, located in Accra, Ghana, is a historical site dedicated to Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana's first President and a key figure in the country's independence movement, featuring his mausoleum, statues, and exhibits on his legacy.
Ghana: Assin Manso Slave River Site
The first of these was Assin Manso, about 160km south of Kumasi.
Assin Manso is small town that is sadly linked with the Ghanaian slave route. Assin Manso was a key transit point for enslaved Africans during the transatlantic slave trade. Enslaved individuals captured from various regions in West Africa, such as northern Ghana, Burkina Faso, Mali, and beyond, were forcefully marched for weeks or even months to reach the coastal slave markets. Assin Manso, situated near the coast but far enough inland to be a central hub, became a key site in this brutal system.
At Assin Manso, enslaved Africans were subjected to physical inspections and “prepared” for sale to European traders at the Cape Coast and Elmina Castles, where they were subsequently shipped across the Atlantic. This preparation included washing in the nearby “Slave River” (or “Nnonkonsuo”), which became one of the most poignant symbols of the dehumanization faced by the victims. The river served as a place where captives were bathed and scrubbed, often as a means of presentation to increase their market value.
Our tour of the Assin Manso Slave River Site started in a walled compound, where we were given an insight into the history of the site. On the wall around us were paintings of significant people of colour from history, mostly from the Americas, who played major roles in the emancipation of ‘blacks’ – such as Martin Luther King, Frederick Douglass and Harriet Tubman.
Also, there were three grave sites. The remains of two formerly enslaved individuals, one from Jamaica and another from the United States, were reinterred at Assin Manso in 1998. Their symbolic return to African soil represents the restoration of dignity to those who were forcibly taken. The third grave holds the remains of many people of colour that were recovered from unmarked graves in the Americas and returned here.
Another significant feature of the site is the Memorial Wall of Return, which displays the names of individuals and groups in the African diaspora who have chosen to reconnect with their roots by visiting the site.
From the compound, we followed the trail down to the river, where many captives took their “last bath” in its waters before being marched to the coastal forts. For many enslaved people, this was the final moment of contact with their homeland before being sent to the Americas, where they faced unimaginable suffering. The slaves brought here from the slave markets had travelled some distance and would have looked dishevelled and malnourished. They would have been given some food and cleaned up. Men with grey in their beards would have had their beards shaved off to make them look younger.
We were here in the dry season so the water level in the river was very low. There were two small gates, one through which the slaves went to the river to clean up after their arrival and the second where they went for their final bath before leaving for the coastal forts.
It was sobering to be here. Many of the visitors who visit the site are people of colour from the Americas who come to pay tribute to their ancestors – for us it was more a feeling of shame for our homelands to have been part of the detestable slave trade. We didn’t say much throughout the tour – it was more about reflecting on the horrors that occurred at this place.
Planning your visit
Elmina, a historic town on Ghana’s central coast, is a place of deep cultural and historical significance. Known for its picturesque beaches and vibrant fishing community, Elmina is most renowned for Elmina Castle, the oldest European building south of the Sahara. Built by the Portuguese in 1482 and later occupied by the Dutch and British, the castle served as a hub for the transatlantic slave trade, a sobering reminder of a painful history. Today, Elmina Castle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting visitors who seek to understand its historical legacy. Beyond its historical sites, Elmina is a lively town with colorful markets, traditional Ghanaian festivals such as Bakatue, and warm hospitality, offering a blend of history and cultural vibrancy that leaves a lasting impression on all who visit.
Getting to Elmina
By Air:
- Fly to Accra:
- The nearest major airport is Kotoka International Airport (ACC) in Accra, Ghana’s capital.
- Many international airlines offer flights to Accra.
By Road:
From Accra to Elmina:
- Distance: Approximately 165 km (102 miles).
- Time: 2.5 to 3.5 hours by car or bus.
- Route: Use the Accra-Cape Coast Highway (N1). It’s a well-maintained road that leads to Elmina.
Options:
- Private Car/Taxi:
- Hire a taxi or private car for convenience.
- Approximate cost: GHS 300-500 depending on negotiation.
- Public Transport:
- Head to a major transport station (e.g., Kaneshie Station or Circle Station) in Accra.
- Board a tro-tro (shared minibus) or a bus heading to Cape Coast/Elmina.
- Approximate cost: GHS 20-50.
- Bus Services:
- Luxury buses like VIP or STC may have routes to Cape Coast, from which you can take a short ride to Elmina.
Local Transport in Elmina:
- Taxis and Motorbikes:
- Use taxis or motorbikes for short trips within Elmina.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Elmina, Ghana, is during the dry season, which typically runs from November to March. This period is characterized by:
Pleasant Weather: The weather is warm and relatively dry, with minimal rainfall, making it ideal for outdoor activities, sightseeing, and exploring historical landmarks such as Elmina Castle and nearby beaches.
Cultural Festivals:
- If you visit in July or August, you might also experience the Bakatue Festival, which celebrates the opening of the fishing season. This is a vibrant event featuring traditional music, dances, and rituals.
Good Visibility for Wildlife: If you’re interested in nearby natural attractions, such as Kakum National Park, the dry season offers better visibility for wildlife and canopy walks.
While visiting in the rainy season (April to October) is still possible, heavy rains might limit outdoor activities and make travel less convenient. However, the lush greenery during this time can offer a different charm to the landscape.
Where to stay in Elmina
Golden Hill Parker Hotel
The Golden Hill Parker Hotel, established in 2014, is a 4-star hillside retreat located on the highest peak of Bantuma village hills in Elmina, Ghana. The hotel offers 18 stylish accommodations, including Deluxe and Superior rooms, providing guests with a 360° view of Elmina’s historic Castle, Forts, and the surrounding area.
Amenities at the hotel include fine dining, a large swimming pool, a restaurant, and beautiful grounds. Guests can enjoy free breakfast, Wi-Fi, and parking during their stay
More to Explore
