UNESCO has listed Ancient Thebes with its Necropolis as a World Heritage Site because it includes some of the most important temples, tombs, and monuments from ancient Egypt—such as the Karnak and Luxor temples, the Valley of the Kings, and the Valley of the Queens—showing the city's role as a major religious and political centre for many centuries and offering a unique insight into Egyptian beliefs, art, and history.
Egypt: Luxor – Valley of the Kings
The Valley of the Kings – A Visit to Egypt’s Royal Burial Ground
The Valley of the Kings is situated on the west bank of the River Nile, just outside Luxor. It’s a place I had long hoped to see for myself. Known as the final resting place of many of ancient Egypt’s pharaohs, the valley holds a strong position in the history of the New Kingdom period, roughly spanning the 16th to 11th centuries BCE. Over sixty tombs have been identified in the area, although not all are open to the public and some remain unfinished or unnamed.
This remote desert location was chosen for its natural seclusion and protection. Ancient Egyptians believed in a peaceful afterlife, and these tombs were built to serve that purpose. The site is silent and barren, surrounded by rock and sun-scorched earth. It is easy to understand why this hidden valley was selected as a burial place — away from prying eyes, difficult to access, and easy to defend.
First Impressions and Entry
Upon arrival at the visitors’ centre, it was clear that we were not alone. The area was already crowded with tour groups. However, once we boarded the electric carts and passed through the entry gate into the valley itself, the atmosphere became calmer and more focused. The main stretch of the valley is several kilometres long. Under the sun, the walk can be hard going, but fortunately these carts save you the energy for exploring the tombs themselves.
A standard entry ticket allows visitors access to three tombs. There are also optional extras, such as tickets to enter the tombs of Tutankhamun and Seti I, both requiring an additional fee. After a brief discussion with our guide Saeed, we settled on visiting the tombs of Ramses III, Merenptah, and Ramses IV.
Tomb of Ramses III
We began with Ramses III. He ruled during the Twentieth Dynasty and is considered the last pharaoh of the New Kingdom to hold real power. His reign was from around 1186 to 1155 BCE. Unlike the tight corridors we had read about in the Great Pyramid at Giza — which Karen had decided against entering due to claustrophobia — this tomb had wide, well-lit passageways. She felt comfortable enough to come along.
Inside, we found long corridors sloping gently downwards, lined with smaller chambers and alcoves. The walls were covered from floor to ceiling in hieroglyphs and paintings, still vivid in colour despite being thousands of years old. Some of the colours were remarkably bright — oranges, reds, deep blues — and it was hard to believe they had not been retouched.
The tomb eventually opens into a larger chamber at the end of the passage. In this space stands a large stone sarcophagus. The inner sarcophagus that would have held the body of Ramses III is no longer there, but the setting is still powerful in its scale and decoration.
There was, however, a minor annoyance — the tomb guards. Rather than focusing on keeping visitors from touching the walls, some were more interested in posing people for photographs and then requesting a tip. It’s a common occurrence, but worth being prepared for.
Tomb of Merenptah
The next tomb was only a short walk away. This belonged to Merenptah, son of Ramses II, and ruler from around 1213 to 1203 BCE. He was the fourth pharaoh of the Nineteenth Dynasty. Merenptah is perhaps best known for his military campaigns and the “Israel Stele,” which is one of the earliest written records of the name “Israel.”
His tomb extends deeper underground than the last. The entrance leads to a long, descending passage before reaching the main burial chamber. Although the decorative style is similar — featuring religious scenes and hieroglyphic texts meant to aid the pharaoh in his journey through the afterlife — the colours here were slightly more faded and the overall atmosphere a little darker.
Still, the sense of history was strong, and the layout of the tomb was impressive. The sarcophagus of Merenptah had once been in place, though it too has long been removed. The craftsmanship was evident throughout, though we felt it didn’t quite match the visual impact of Ramses III’s tomb.
Tomb of Ramses IV
Lastly, we visited the tomb of Ramses IV, the son of Ramses III. His reign lasted from 1156 to 1150 BCE and is remembered for grand building projects rather than military exploits. His tomb, known as KV2, is considered one of the best preserved in the valley.
Compared to the other two tombs, this one felt more complete. The entrance was broad and well laid out, and the corridor into the tomb was almost ceremonial in its symmetry. The decoration was extensive and detailed. Walls and ceilings were filled with texts and imagery from the Book of the Dead and other funerary texts.
This tomb was larger in feel, though perhaps simpler in colour than that of Ramses III. Still, its state of preservation and the clarity of the artwork made it a fitting end to the day’s exploration. Ramses IV’s efforts to secure his place in the afterlife are very much still on display.
Final Thoughts
Visiting the Valley of the Kings is not a casual stop; it is an experience that leaves a lasting impression. The sheer age and detail of the tombs, combined with the dry heat and isolated landscape, create an atmosphere that is both humbling and fascinating. Despite the occasional frustrations — crowds, persistent guides, and tipping expectations — the historical value is undeniable.
If you’re planning a visit, allow enough time, bring water, and choose your tombs thoughtfully. Each has something different to offer, and while not all are as spectacular as Tutankhamun’s, many are more spacious, more colourful, and less crowded.
All in all, it was a day well spent, and one that offered a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship, beliefs, and determination of a civilisation that continues to capture the imagination of the world.
Planning your visit
📍 Location
The Valley of the Kings is located on the west bank of the Nile, opposite Luxor, not Cairo. You’ll need to travel from Cairo to Luxor to visit.
✈️ How to Get There
From Cairo to Luxor:
By plane: The quickest way — flights take about 1 hour.
By train: An overnight sleeper train takes around 9–10 hours.
By car: A long drive, usually not recommended for tourists unless with a guide.
From Luxor to the Valley:
Take a taxi, tour bus, or join a guided tour.
It’s about 30 minutes from Luxor city centre.
🎟️ Entry and Tickets
Tickets are available at the visitor centre.
The basic ticket includes entry to 3 tombs.
Some famous tombs like Tutankhamun’s or Seti I require separate tickets.
💡 Tip: Ask at the ticket counter which tombs are open that day — not all are open at the same time.
⏰ Opening Times
Usually open daily, from around 6:00 am to 5:00 pm (times can change slightly by season).
Best to visit early to avoid queues and crowds.
🧥 What to Bring
🎫 Tickets or booking confirmation
🎒 Small bag (big bags often not allowed inside tombs)
👒 Hat, 🕶️ sunglasses, and 💧 water
📸 Camera (you may need a separate photo pass for some tombs)
🏃 Comfortable shoes — there’s a fair bit of walking
👀 What You’ll See
Ancient tombs carved deep into rock
Wall paintings and hieroglyphs over 3,000 years old
Burial chambers of pharaohs, including Ramses and Tutankhamun
🙋 Tips
Go with a local guide if you want to understand the history
Avoid touching the walls — oils from hands can damage them
Tombs can be warm and a bit humid inside
The best time to visit Luxor
🌸 Spring (March to May)
✅ Best time to visit
🌞 Weather: Warm and pleasant, not too hot
👥 Crowds: Moderate – not as busy as peak season
🎒 Why go: Great for sightseeing and walking around tombs
🧴 Tip: Bring sunscreen and water
☀️ Summer (June to August)
❌ Not recommended
🔥 Weather: Extremely hot (often over 40°C)
👤 Crowds: Fewer tourists, but heat can be dangerous
🧢 Why avoid: Hard to enjoy the tombs and sites in extreme heat
💧 Tip: Only go if you can handle the heat and stay hydrated
🍂 Autumn (September to November)
✅ Great time to visit
🌤️ Weather: Cooling down from summer, very pleasant
👟 Why go: Ideal for exploring sites comfortably
📸 Tip: Great light for photography
❄️ Winter (December to February)
✔️ Good time to visit
🌬️ Weather: Mild, sometimes chilly mornings/evenings
🧳 Crowds: Peak tourist season – can be busy
🏛️ Why go: Comfortable for long visits and tours
🧥 Tip: Bring a light jacket
🏆 Overall Best Time
Spring (March–May) and Autumn (September–November)
✅ Comfortable weather
✅ Manageable crowds
✅ Best for walking, sightseeing, and photos
Where to stay in Luxor
1. Mid Range: New Memnon Hotel
The New Memnon Hotel in Luxor is a small, friendly hotel located on the west bank of the Nile, close to many famous ancient sites like the Valley of the Kings. It offers simple, clean rooms with views of the surrounding desert and farmland. The hotel has a relaxed atmosphere and is known for its helpful staff, who can assist with organising tours and transport. Guests can enjoy home-cooked meals on the rooftop terrace, which provides a peaceful place to unwind after a day of exploring. It’s a good choice for travellers looking for a quiet, comfortable stay near Luxor’s main attractions.
2. Luxury – Jolie Ville Hotel & Spa Kings Island Luxor
Jolie Ville Hotel & Spa Kings Island Luxor is a peaceful resort set on a private island in the Nile River, just outside the city of Luxor. Surrounded by beautiful gardens and palm trees, the hotel offers a quiet and relaxing atmosphere away from the busy town. It has comfortable rooms, several swimming pools, and a variety of restaurants serving both local and international food. Guests can enjoy views of the river, take a walk by the water, or unwind at the on-site spa. It’s a good base for exploring Luxor’s famous ancient sites while enjoying comfort and calm in a natural setting.
3. Nefertiti Hotel Luxor
The Nefertiti Hotel in Luxor is a small, friendly place located near the Nile and close to many of the city’s main attractions. It offers simple but clean rooms at affordable prices, making it a popular choice for travellers on a budget. The staff are known for being welcoming and helpful, often going out of their way to make guests feel at home. On the rooftop, there’s a terrace restaurant with lovely views over Luxor Temple and the Nile, perfect for relaxing after a day of sightseeing. The hotel also helps arrange local tours, which can be handy for visiting places like the Valley of the Kings or Karnak Temple.
More to Explore
