Contents
1. About Cairo
2. Things to do
– Visit the pyramids of Giza
– Explore the Egyptian Museum
– Check out the Coptic Christian churches of Cairo
– Walk Through Islamic Cairo
– Get lost in the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar
– Admire Al‑Azhar Mosque & Al‑Azhar Park
– Cruise the Nile by felucca
– Discover Islamic & Art Deco Cairo
3. Getting around
4. Vegan dining options
5. Best time to visit
6. Where to stay
About Cairo
Cairo, the capital of Egypt, is a huge and energetic city where history and modern life exist side by side in a fascinating mix. The city stretches along the banks of the River Nile, and everywhere you look there are contrasts — tall glass buildings beside old mosques, busy streets filled with traffic next to quiet courtyards, and modern cafés not far from ancient markets. The air is often filled with the sounds of car horns, prayer calls, and people talking and laughing. Life in Cairo moves quickly, and for first-time visitors, the city can feel intense and overwhelming, but it also has a warmth and charm that draws you in. It is a place where daily routines and thousands of years of history seem to flow together in one living, breathing space.
In many parts of Cairo, the past is still very present. The area of Giza, on the city’s edge, is home to the famous Pyramids and the Great Sphinx — ancient monuments that continue to amaze visitors from around the world. In the city centre, the Egyptian Museum holds countless treasures, from the golden mask of Tutankhamun to delicate jewellery and mummified remains. Walking through older neighbourhoods like Islamic Cairo, you find narrow lanes lined with old mosques, madrassas, and markets that have been trading for centuries. The smell of spices, coffee, and grilled food fills the air, and sellers call out to passers-by. It is easy to feel a deep sense of connection to the long and layered history that has shaped the city over thousands of years.
Modern Cairo, however, is just as much about daily life as it is about ancient wonders. The city is home to over twenty million people, and its neighbourhoods vary widely — from leafy areas like Zamalek with its embassies and cafés, to the sprawling outer districts where most Cairenes live and work. Traffic is heavy and unpredictable, yet somehow everyone seems to know how to navigate it. The Nile remains the heart of the city, offering quiet moments along its banks, especially in the evenings when locals gather, boats glide by, and the skyline glows with lights. Despite the challenges of noise, congestion, and pollution, there is a strong sense of community and resilience in Cairo. It is a city that never really sleeps, always busy, always full of life — a place where the old and the new continue to shape each other every single day.
Things to do
Visit the Pyramids of Giza
Our proper tour of Egypt kicked off today with a visit to the Pyramids of Giza, which are technically close to our hotel, though in Cairo “close” can still mean an hour in traffic. Our guide and driver collected us and we crawled through the city to the Giza Plateau, where we were dropped off at a distance thanks to the crowds, and made our way on foot to the Great Pyramid. Dating back to around 2580 BCE, the three main pyramids—Khufu (or Cheops), Khafre, and Menkaure—were built as tombs for the pharaohs during the Old Kingdom’s Fourth Dynasty. The largest, the Great Pyramid of Khufu, once the tallest structure on earth, is a mind-boggling feat of engineering, made from millions of heavy stone blocks. We watched with increasing irritation as tourists clambered all over it for selfies, encouraged by the guards who didn’t mind turning a blind eye for a bit of baksheesh. We skipped going inside the pyramid itself—Karen’s claustrophobia made that a non-starter—and instead moved on to a viewpoint where all three main pyramids and several smaller ones could be seen clearly. Khafre’s pyramid, slightly shorter but higher up, seems bigger and is associated with the Great Sphinx—a huge statue with a lion’s body and a human head, probably modelled on Khafre. Menkaure’s pyramid, though smaller, was also impressive in its craftsmanship. We ended the morning at the base of the Sphinx itself, marvelling at its scale and wondering, like so many before us, about its purpose and origins. Some reckon it’s older than the pyramids, others think it’s a celestial symbol, but either way it’s a sight to behold—weathered, damaged, and still holding onto its secrets.
Explore the Egyptian Museum
Our visit to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo turned out to be a proper highlight of the trip. Nestled near Tahrir Square in the city centre, the museum itself is a bit long in the tooth—faded edges and all—but still packed to the rafters with ancient treasures that make it one of the world’s most significant historical collections.
Our guide Amir knew his stuff, giving us a steady stream of insight as we wandered through rooms crammed with everything from statues and sarcophagi to pots, jewellery, and bits of daily life spanning thousands of years. The sheer number of artefacts—over 120,000, apparently—was hard to grasp, but you get the point quickly enough once inside. Some of the larger statues are almost absurdly big, while others are surprisingly delicate. Although the royal mummies have since been moved to a newer museum across town—20 of them, including a few big names like Ramesses II and Hatshepsut—the Egyptian Museum still draws crowds with its iconic Tutankhamun room, which really is something else. The famous golden mask is every bit as striking as you’d hope, and the rest of the treasures aren’t half bad either—gloves, chariots, weapons, the lot. Sadly, no photos allowed, so it’s all down to memory (and the odd overpriced postcard). Space inside is tight and the labels are a bit hit and miss, but the museum more than holds its own. A new Grand Egyptian Museum is being built near the pyramids to help spread things out and modernise the display, but even in its current state, the old museum is well worth your time—just don’t expect to see it all in one go.
Check out the Coptic Christian churches of Cairo
Tucked behind the bustle of Cairo’s grand mosques and honking traffic lies the city’s quieter, more contemplative side—the old Coptic quarter—where we spent a day exploring some of Egypt’s most historic Christian landmarks with Amir, our ever-patient and well-informed guide. We began at the Hanging Church, a 3rd-century structure perched above a Roman gatehouse, its modest interior filled with beautifully carved woodwork and icons, quite the contrast to the vast mosques we’d seen elsewhere in the city. A short walk led us to the Church of St. Sergius and Bacchus, thought to stand on the spot where the Holy Family rested during their flight into Egypt, complete with a small well in the crypt and an air of gentle reverence. Nearby, we ducked into a nunnery dedicated to St. George—yes, the same dragon-slayer from English legend—where we learned more about his status in Coptic tradition as a martyr and protector of the faith, with painted scenes inside the chapel and even a relic to mark his legacy. We then wandered over to St. George’s Church proper, a rare circular Coptic church within the old compound, with roots going back to the 10th century and enough icons and historic detail to keep you looking for a good while.
Walk Through Islamic Cairo
Walking through Islamic Cairo is a bit like stepping sideways into a version of the city that hasn’t completely surrendered to modern life. You’re not looking at grand pyramids or postcard ruins here; this is where daily life trundles along much as it has for centuries, give or take the odd mobile phone or plastic chair. I started off near the old city walls and just let my feet take over. The streets are narrow and often crowded, not so much with tourists but with locals going about their day – shopkeepers arranging goods, men huddled over backgammon boards, and children darting between carts and stalls like it’s the most natural obstacle course in the world. You’ll see mosques from the Fatimid and Mamluk periods around every other corner, some of them still active, others slowly fading into the background of the neighbourhood. I stopped in the courtyard of Al-Hakim Mosque – spacious, surprisingly quiet – and then wandered along Al-Muizz Street, which I’d read was one of the oldest in the city. It’s lined with historic buildings, many restored, some crumbling, all layered with centuries of dust and effort. You don’t really need a guidebook – the atmosphere does most of the talking. Every so often I’d be drawn into a little side alley by the smell of bread baking or the clang of a metalworker’s hammer. You get the sense that crafts haven’t changed much here, except maybe the prices. And yes, it’s hot, and yes, the pavements are uneven, and yes, the traffic noise seeps in if you wander too close to the edges. But that’s part of it. It’s a functioning bit of the city that happens to be historic, rather than a museum piece. You’re not walking through the past so much as walking alongside it, still alive, still ticking over.
Get lost in the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar
Tucked away in the heart of Islamic Cairo, Khan el-Khalili Bazaar is one of those places you can’t quite prepare for, no matter how many guidebooks you leaf through. It’s a bit chaotic, a bit overwhelming, and yet absolutely fascinating once you let it unfold at its own pace. The bazaar dates back to the 14th century, originally built as a caravanserai for traders coming from far-flung parts of the world, and to this day it retains the feel of a working market, albeit heavily seasoned with tourists. The narrow lanes twist and turn unpredictably, lined with shops and stalls packed to the gills with everything from cheap trinkets and plastic pyramids to finely crafted brass lamps, inlaid woodwork, and silver jewellery that’s actually worth a second look. You’ll find the scent of spices drifting through the air, usually from some small shop wedged between fabric sellers and leather goods, and you might catch the hiss of a kettle or the sound of hammering from a metalworker’s corner. There’s no pressure to buy if you’re firm and polite, but haggling is part of the game if you’re interested, and you’ll do better if you know roughly what something ought to cost. When your legs give out—and they probably will—you can grab a tea or a strong black coffee at one of the cafés, like El Fishawy, which has been open for over two centuries and doesn’t seem in a rush to change anything.
Admire Al‑Azhar Mosque & Al‑Azhar Park
If you’re pottering about Islamic Cairo, you really ought to make time for Al-Azhar Mosque and the park just next to it. The mosque itself dates back to the 10th century—built in 970, if memory serves—making it one of the oldest in the city and still a functioning university to this day, which is quite something. It’s a good example of Fatimid architecture, though various additions and alterations have been made over the centuries. The inner courtyard is stark and elegant, and there’s a certain calm to the place, even with the comings and goings of students and visitors. You don’t have to be religious to appreciate it, but do dress appropriately—long trousers, covered shoulders, and ladies ought to bring a scarf. Just across the way is Al-Azhar Park, which was a bit of a rubbish tip until the early 2000s when the Aga Khan Trust gave it a proper seeing-to. Now it’s a well-kept green space with neatly laid-out gardens, fountains, and a few cafés dotted about. From the top of the hill, you get a decent view over old Cairo, especially at dusk. It’s not wildly dramatic, but it’s pleasant enough, and if you’ve had a bellyful of noise and dust, it’s a quiet spot to take a breather.
Cruise the Nile by felucca
If you find yourself in Cairo with an afternoon to spare, I’d highly recommend taking a felucca ride along the Nile. It’s a simple wooden sailboat, no frills, just the steady flap of canvas and the sound of water lapping against the sides. No engines humming, no commentary blaring through loudspeakers—just peace. You climb aboard from one of the docks along the Corniche, usually with a quiet young man at the helm who nods politely and lets the sail do the work. Once you push off, the city noise fades a bit and the skyline stretches out ahead—mosques, high-rises, the odd heron if you’re lucky. There’s something quite grounding about watching Cairo from the river, especially near sunset when the buildings take on that dusty gold hue. You don’t go far, just a gentle loop really, but it’s enough. A cup of tea in hand wouldn’t go amiss, and if you’ve got a jumper, bring it—once the sun dips, there’s a definite nip in the air, even here.
Discover Islamic & Art Deco Cairo
If you’ve got some spare time in Cairo and want something a bit less tour-group-heavy, a walk through Islamic and Art Deco Cairo is well worth your time. Start on Al-Muizz Street—an old thoroughfare that’s been kicking around since the Fatimid days. It’s packed with medieval mosques, madrasas, hammams and markets, many of which have been restored to a decent state. You don’t need a guide, really, but a map or app helps, as the alleys twist a bit. The street itself is pedestrian-only in parts, so it’s fairly calm compared to the chaos elsewhere. Look up and you’ll see intricate wooden mashrabiyas and bits of stone carving. It’s not pristine, but that’s part of the charm. Once you’ve had your fill of minarets, head west towards Downtown—Wust el-Balad, as the locals call it. This area’s got a completely different look, shaped in the early 20th century when the city was trying to fancy itself up with Parisian-style boulevards and buildings. If you like a bit of architecture spotting, you’ll find some lovely examples of Art Deco and early modernist facades here—balconies with curved railings, old cinemas, that sort of thing. Not all of it’s in good nick, but there’s still plenty left to admire. Grab a tea in one of the old cafés, watch the city go by, and you’ll get a quiet moment in a place that’s anything but.
Getting around Cairo
🚇 Metro
The Cairo Metro is one of the quickest ways to get around the city. It’s cheap, air-conditioned, and avoids the traffic. There are three lines covering many important areas. Tickets are affordable, and trains come every few minutes.
Tip: Avoid rush hour (7–9am and 4–6pm) if you can – it gets very crowded.
🚌 Buses and Microbuses
Public buses and smaller microbuses are everywhere, but they can be confusing for visitors. They’re very cheap, but there are no clear maps or stops.
Tip: Unless you speak Arabic or have local help, it’s best to avoid these at first.
🚖 Taxis
Taxis are easy to find, especially black-and-white or white ones with metres. However, some drivers may not want to use the metre. Agree on a price before getting in, or insist on using the metre.
Tip: Use cash and keep small change.
📱 Ride Apps (Uber & Careem)
Uber and Careem are great for visitors. They’re safer, the price is fixed, and there’s no need to speak Arabic. You can pay by card or cash.
Tip: Check both apps to compare prices.
🚶♂️ Walking
Walking is possible in some parts of Cairo, but the city isn’t very pedestrian-friendly. Pavements can be broken or blocked, and traffic is chaotic.
Tip: Be very careful when crossing the road – cars rarely stop!
🚗 Car Hire
You can rent a car, but driving in Cairo is not recommended for visitors. Traffic is heavy, and local driving habits can be very different.
Tip: If you need a car, it’s better to hire one with a driver.
⛴️ River Transport
You can take a boat or a felucca on the Nile for a scenic journey. It’s more for fun than practical transport, but it’s a lovely way to see the city.
Tip: Agree on a price and duration before boarding.
Eating out for vegans in Cairo
🥗 Vegan Food in Cairo, Egypt
While Cairo might not be the most vegan-friendly city in the world, it’s becoming easier to find delicious, high-quality plant-based meals. Here are some of the best places to check out:
🌿 Vegan in Our House – Maadi
A peaceful vegan café tucked away in Maadi, known for its cosy setting and friendly owners. The menu features home-style vegan Egyptian and international dishes, including lentil soup, burgers, and vegan desserts.
📍 Address: 3 Street 198, Degla, Maadi, Cairo
🌐 Website: veganinourhouse.com
🍜 Be Good to You – Zamalek
Located in the heart of Zamalek, this plant-based café focuses on wellness and clean eating. Their bowls, smoothies, and raw desserts are popular among vegans and health-conscious foodies alike.
📍 Address: 11 El-Malek El-Fadl, Zamalek, Cairo
🌐 Instagram: @begoodtoyou.eg
🛒 The Vegan Shop – Online & Delivery
Egypt’s first fully vegan online grocery store, offering plant-based meat, cheese, snacks, and personal care items. Ideal for stocking up your kitchen with cruelty-free products.
🌐 Website: theveganshop.store
🍽️ Khufu’s – Giza Plateau
Located near the Pyramids, Khufu’s is an upscale Egyptian restaurant that offers several vegan-friendly options. While not fully vegan, the kitchen is accommodating, and the view is unbeatable.
📍 Address: Inside the Giza Plateau, near the Pyramids
🌐 Website: khufusrestaurant.com
🧁 Granita – Zamalek
Though not exclusively vegan, Granita offers a few excellent vegan baked goods and great coffee with non-dairy milk options. The garden setting is perfect for a relaxing afternoon.
📍 Address: All Saints’ Cathedral, 5 Michel Lutfallah Street, Zamalek
🌐 Instagram: @granitazamalek
🥙 Zooba – Multiple Branches
A trendy Egyptian street food chain that offers several vegan dishes, including koshary, falafel, and ful (fava beans). Always clearly marked and full of flavour.
📍 Main Branch: 26th of July Street, Zamalek
🌐 Website: zoobaeats.com
🌱 Lychee – Healthy Juices & Snacks
Great for a quick vegan juice or smoothie on the go. Some locations also sell vegan sandwiches and snacks.
📍 Various locations across Cairo
🌐 Website: lycheegroup.com
The best time to visit Cairo
☀️ Best Time to Visit Cairo
Cairo is a city full of history, culture, and sunshine. But choosing the right time to visit can make your trip even better. Here’s when to go:
🌸 Spring (March to May) – Best Overall Time
Spring is one of the best times to visit Cairo. The weather is warm but not too hot, making it ideal for exploring the Pyramids or walking through the markets. There are fewer tourists compared to winter, so it’s a great time for a more relaxed trip.
☀️ Autumn (October to November) – Great Weather
Autumn is another lovely season in Cairo. The heat of summer has passed, and the temperatures are comfortable. You can enjoy sightseeing, river cruises, and outdoor cafés without feeling overheated.
❄️ Winter (December to February) – Cooler and Busier
Winter is the most popular time for tourists. The days are sunny but cooler, especially in the evenings. It’s perfect for people who don’t like hot weather. Just keep in mind that it can be busy and prices may be higher.
🔥 Summer (June to September) – Very Hot
Summer in Cairo is very hot, with temperatures often going above 35°C. It’s the low season for tourism because of the heat. If you don’t mind high temperatures and want cheaper prices, it might still be worth it.
🎒 Tip for Travellers
No matter when you visit, always bring sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat. The Egyptian sun is strong all year round!
Where to stay in Cairo
🕌 Historic & Cultural: Islamic Cairo
Best for: First-time visitors, history enthusiasts
Why: Home to the Citadel, Sultan Hassan Mosque, Al-Azhar Mosque, Khan El Khalili Bazaar—all within walking distance.
Vibe: Quiet in the evenings, deeply rooted in heritage.
Drawbacks: Can feel a bit touristy, and not much nightlife.
🌊 Scenic & Local: Zamalek
Best for: A balance of local charm and modern comforts
Why: Set on the Nile, full of leafy streets, galleries, and cafes; close to Downtown and the Opera House.
Vibe: Artsy, cultured, walkable.
Drawbacks: Can be pricey and traffic-heavy during peak hours.
🛍️ Trendy & Lively: Downtown Cairo
Best for: Nightlife, cafes, shopping, cultural mix
Why: Bustling with energy, great access to museums, cinemas, and late-night spots.
Vibe: Urban, vibrant, youthful.
Drawbacks: Can be noisy and chaotic, especially around Tahrir Square.
🌳 Chic & Upscale: Heliopolis
Best for: Luxury travellers, upscale shopping
Why: Wide boulevards, elegant architecture, high-end shops and restaurants.
Vibe: Sophisticated, spacious, modern.
Drawbacks: Further from central historic sites—requires a car or ride-hailing.
🛥️ Waterside & Relaxed: Maadi
Best for: A quieter, more residential experience
Why: Riverside promenades, international eateries, and a relaxed atmosphere popular with expats.
Vibe: Leafy, peaceful, community-driven.
Drawbacks: Longer commute to central attractions, but worth it for the calm.
1. Mid Range: Comfort Sphinx&Pyramids Inn
Comfort Sphinx & Pyramids Inn is a cosy and welcoming guesthouse located just a short walk from the Giza Plateau, offering stunning views of the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx right from its rooftop terrace. It’s a popular choice for travellers looking for a more personal, homely alternative to large hotels while still being close to Cairo’s most iconic landmarks. The rooms are clean and comfortable, with air conditioning, private bathrooms, and essential amenities to make your stay pleasant. The staff are known for their friendliness and hospitality, often going out of their way to help guests arrange tours, transport, or local dining experiences. Breakfast is typically included and served on the rooftop, where you can enjoy your meal with the pyramids in the background—a truly unforgettable setting. While the inn itself is modest and not luxurious, it offers excellent value for money, especially for those who want an authentic and convenient base for exploring the wonders of ancient Egypt
2. Luxury – The St. Regis Cairo
The St. Regis Cairo is one of the most luxurious and prestigious hotels in the city, offering an exceptional blend of timeless elegance and modern sophistication. Located on the banks of the River Nile, the hotel enjoys a prime position in the heart of Cairo, with easy access to key landmarks such as Tahrir Square, the Egyptian Museum, and the lively Zamalek district. Designed by renowned architect Michael Graves, its striking architecture and lavish interiors make a strong impression from the moment you arrive. The hotel features a range of opulent rooms and suites, many with stunning Nile views, all equipped with top-tier amenities and the signature St. Regis Butler Service. Guests can enjoy world-class dining across several restaurants offering everything from refined Egyptian cuisine to international favourites. The Iridium Spa provides a serene escape with indulgent treatments, while the indoor and outdoor pools, fitness centre, and elegant lounges cater to both relaxation and recreation.
3. Budget – Solima Pyramids View
Solima Pyramids View is a popular spot located near the Giza Plateau, offering stunning, up-close views of the iconic Pyramids of Giza, including the Great Pyramid, the Pyramid of Khafre, and the Pyramid of Menkaure. Many visitors choose this location for its unbeatable perspective of the ancient monuments, especially at sunrise or sunset when the lighting casts a golden hue over the desert landscape. The area around Solima Pyramids View is home to a mix of cafés, rooftop terraces, and guesthouses, where you can relax with traditional Egyptian tea or a meal while admiring the view. It’s particularly well-loved by travellers who want a more immersive, local experience compared to staying in central Cairo. The atmosphere is laid-back, and the streets nearby have a charming, slightly rustic feel, giving a sense of being close to everyday life in Giza.
