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Benin: Taneka village visit

The Taneka people primarily inhabit the Atacora region in northern Benin, particularly around the Taneka Plateau near the town of Natitingou. This area is characterised by rocky hills and savannah landscapes. The villages tend to be up in the hills due to their defensible positions, but they depend on subsistence farming, so the men spend most of their time farming the lands of the savannah.

We climbed up to where the village we were visiting was located. The houses of the Taneka people are traditional round mud houses with conical thatched roofs.

Our guide led us to a shady spot under a tree where he asked us to wait while he went off in search of one of the priests to introduce us. The village chiefs, elders, and priests often play an active role in preserving customs, including religious rituals and storytelling. The Taneka people are known for their spiritual practices, often involving animism and ancestral worship. You may encounter shrines and sacred spaces during your visit.

A few minutes later our guide returned with an elderly man with a wizened face. Luckily, I had been told not to sit on the rock that was reserved for the priests. The traditional garb of these fetish priests is a leather loin cloth – they are expected to be bare-chested – and the only thing he had covering his chest was an amulet. Apart from the loincloth, they are not permitted to wear anything else! The only other thing the priest had was a long pipe – which is the preserve of the fetish priests. Smoking tobacco in these pipes helps them in their role as intermediaries between the community and the spiritual world.

Like the day before, we were invited to ask him questions. I felt a bit uncomfortable doing this, but Karen managed to fire a few off in his direction. As our little gathering broke up, we were introduced to his wife, who had a 13-day-old baby, which Karen was invited to hold – of course, she could not wait! Our presence also brought out more of the local children. They ended up holding our hands and leading us on the narrow paths through the village. The children were delightful! Our next destination was the reception room for the King. Traditionally, visitors entering the village have had to be introduced to the King before doing anything else – we had already broken this rule. We took our seats in the hut and waited for the King to arrive. A few minutes later he appeared in his regal outfit, wearing a cool pair of sunglasses. He was only a young man and had only been in his position for a short time. We were invited to ask him questions. Karen posed a few questions, and he answered – our guide translating for us. A few minutes later our audience was over. I made my way over and gave him some money as a thank-you gesture.

We started to make our way through the village, with the children once again taking our hands. On the way, we made a brief stop to give the mother of the baby a small monetary gift – which is traditional among the Taneka people. Minutes later we were back at the car saying our goodbyes. It was only at this point that the children started asking for presents – we had nothing to give them, which made us feel bad!

Planning your visit 

The best time to visit 

The optimal time to visit the Taneka villages in Benin is during the dry season, which spans from November to March. This period offers pleasant temperatures and minimal rainfall, making it ideal for exploring the country’s rich cultural heritage and natural attractions.

Visiting during the dry season allows for comfortable travel conditions, enabling you to fully experience the unique traditions and lifestyle of the Taneka people. The villages, located in the Atakora mountain range in northwestern Benin, are known for their round clay huts with thatched roofs and their rich cultural heritage.

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