Porto-Novo, the capital city of Benin, is a historic and culturally rich destination on the country’s southeastern coast along the Gulf of Guinea. Known as the “City of Three Names” due to its colonial French, Portuguese, and indigenous influences, Porto-Novo blends a fascinating mix of architectural styles, from colonial-era buildings to traditional Afro-Brazilian designs. The city is home to vibrant markets, historical museums, and landmarks like the Royal Palace, which highlight its role as a former hub of the transatlantic slave trade.
After breakfast, we met up with our guide for the morning was already waiting, in the most beautiful suit, with a purple background on which there were pink hearts – he looked lovely. He hopped on his motorbike and set off and we followed in pursuit.
We headed into the city’s centre, which like most places we had visited so far was a bit run-down and sad-looking, but there was the energy and vibrance we had seen all around during our visit to West Africa. Where we were was in the heart of the original centre of the city. Right next to us was the Royal Palace, also known as King Toffa’s Palace or Musée Honmé. Once the residence of King Toffa I, who ruled from 1874 to 1908, the palace has been transformed into a museum that offers insights into the royal heritage and cultural history of the region. Unfortunately, like most museums in Bénin, it had fallen into a state of disrepair and is now closed for renovations. The sign outside said it closed in January 2023 and would be open in 2 years – which would have been about now, but it did not look like it would be opening anytime soon!
The Zangbeto Kpakli Yaou Temple
Luckily, close by the Royal Palace were a couple of temples to look at.
The first of these was The Zangbeto Kpakli Yaou Temple, also known as the Temple des Zangbétô, is a significant place of worship located in Porto-Novo, Benin. This temple is dedicated to the Zangbeto, traditional voodoo guardians of the night among the Ogu (or Egun) people of Benin, Togo, and Nigeria. The Zangbeto serve as an unofficial police force, patrolling the streets at night to maintain law and order, protect communities, and deter criminal activities.
Architecturally, the temple is notable for its unique design, featuring a conical structure that resembles a thatched hut. This distinctive form reflects traditional building styles and holds cultural significance in the region.
The Abessan Temple
A little further on was another temple, the Abessan temple. This is not a Voodoo temple; it is associated with the first settlement of Porto Novo, in the 15th Century. I found two conflicting stories, one claims that Abessan was the nine-headed deity considered the Queen of the Yoruba, who, apparently, was spotted here by three Yoruba warriors. The other also talks about the three Yoruba warriors who arrived here and decided to stay, after which the wife of one gave birth to nine children and took the title Abessan. Whatever, obviously an important place for the city, so important that the red-ochre temple from sand, resembling a termite mound, was recently restored. A sign outside says that the complex was inaugurated in January 2023.
Renovated Street
Close to these temples is an area that has been renovated. The walls lining the street have three-dimensional murals that represent important historical and cultural aspects of local life. In the centre of the street was a preserved baobab tree that is sacred – so hopefully it is there to stay.
The Grand Mosque of Porto-Novo
From the Royal Palace we drove a couple of kilometres to the central district area of the city.
The main reason for coming to this area was to see the Grand Mosque of Porto-Novo, which is a remarkable example of Afro-Brazilian architecture. Construction began in 1912 and was completed in 1925 during the French Dahomey period.
The mosque’s design mirrors 17th and 18th-century churches from Bahia, Brazil, featuring a central pediment and ornate stucco decorations. This unique architectural style reflects the influence of Afro-Brazilian communities, particularly freed slaves who returned from Brazil and integrated Brazilian elements into local structures.
Despite its historical significance, the mosque has faced challenges with preservation, highlighting the need for ongoing restoration efforts. The façade and the outside of the mosque look very tired, especially compared to the large, new mosque next door. Still, I preferred the look of the old one!
The Central Market of Porto-Novo
Close by the Grand Mosque is the central market. Our guide led us through the streets to the market. Most of the sellers focussed on the usual fare of fruits, vegetables, clothes and household items. Still, some stands were more unique, with dried herbs and plants for traditional medicines and paraphernalia for voodoo ceremonies.
Boat trip on the Black River
Our time in Porto Novo was done, at least in the city centre. We followed our guide on his motorbike through the city streets and out into the countryside, where he led us to a small, traditional village where we parked up. From the village, we walked down the hill to the banks of the Black River.
The Black River is a significant waterway that holds cultural, ecological, and historical importance. Winding through the heart of the city, the river is often regarded as a symbol of Porto Novo’s rich heritage. Its dark, reflective waters are lined with lush mangroves and serve as a lifeline for local communities, supporting fishing, agriculture, and traditional crafts. The river also plays a key role in ceremonies and rituals, reflecting the spiritual ties of the region’s inhabitants to their natural surroundings. Beyond its cultural significance, the Black River offers stunning scenic beauty, attracting tourists and nature enthusiasts eager to explore its tranquil ambience and the biodiversity it sustains.
When we arrived A handful of men were in the water bathing in the water. They didn’t seem bothered by our presence. In the water, we could also see some sunken pirogues, we thought they might have been damaged and become water-logged, but apparently, they were deliberately filled with water, so they sank. This stops them from drying out and cracking.
At first, we were a bit worried we might be travelling in one of these pirogues, but our nerves were settled a bit later when a larger boat arrived to take us on our tour.
We were going to be travelling on a small branch of the river, which was only about 3m at its widest. I was also very shallow, there we no paddling here – the boat was propelled by our captain with a long pole. Our guide sat at the front with another pole to help with steering. He told us he would not be talking for the first part of our trip so we could enjoy the sights and sounds of the forest in peace.
The Black River is named for the colour of its waters, which appear dark due to the sediment and organic material it carries. The name reflects the river’s visual characteristics rather than any historical or mythological context. To be honest to me it looked more like a chocolate brown colour than black.
As our boat glided over the calm, dark waters, the riverbanks came alive with a tapestry of green—towering mangroves, swaying palms, and dense foliage that seemed untouched by time. It was so peaceful and calming to sit there in silence taking everything in.
The river meandered its way through the forest. There were some tight bends which meant our guide had to help out to get around the course of the river.
After about half an hour we entered a larger branch of the river. Things opened up and the forest thinned out.
We approached a small village. The captain brought the boat to the riverbank, and we climbed ashore. Things were very quiet in the streets of the village. Our guide led us into one of the family compounds where he introduced us to some of the family members. They showed us how they made gin from palm oil trees – I think the idea was we might buy some, but without even exchanging a look we both knew that this would not be a good idea. We said our goodbyes and returned to the boat.
Our journey back was a little shorter. We reached another small beach near the village we had started from. A group of young girls were playing in the water. Our guide gave them a talking to about the amount of trash lying around the beach. To be fair there is plastic and trash all over this part of Africa – but you have to start somewhere. One of the girls picked up a bit of plastic off the beach and chucked it into the bush – there is some way to go to educate the youth of Africa about taking care of their lands!
We returned to the car, and it was now time to head further north in Bénin. Our next stop was going to be Abomey.
Planning your visit
Getting There
- Airport: Fly into Cotonou Cadjehoun Airport, then take a car or bus (about 45 minutes to an hour drive).
- Local Transport: Porto Novo is well-connected by taxis and motorbikes (“zemidjans”) for getting around.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Porto Novo, the capital of Benin, depends on your preferences for weather and activities. Generally, the most favorable times are during the dry seasons, when the weather is pleasant, and rainfall is minimal.
Best Times:
November to February (Cool Dry Season):
- Weather: Temperatures are cooler (around 25–30°C / 77–86°F), with less humidity and no heavy rains.
- Why Visit: This is the most comfortable time for sightseeing and exploring the city’s cultural and historical sites, such as the Royal Palace or the Porto Novo Museum of Ethnography.
- Activities: Ideal for walking tours, visiting local markets, and enjoying outdoor festivals.
July to September (Short Dry Season):
- Weather: There is less rainfall compared to other months in the year, though it is slightly warmer and more humid than November to February.
- Why Visit: Great for combining visits to Porto Novo with excursions to nearby attractions, including lakes and cultural villages.
Times to Avoid:
- March to June (Rainy Season):
- Heavy rainfall can make travel and outdoor activities more challenging.
- October:
- Transitional period with unpredictable weather and potential for sporadic rains.
Tips:
- Pack lightweight, breathable clothing and comfortable footwear.
- Sunscreen, a hat, and an umbrella are useful for sun protection and any unexpected rain.
- Participate in local festivals or events, such as Voodoo Day (January 10), if visiting during the season.
Choosing November to February offers the most enjoyable experience with optimal weather and fewer travel hassles.
Where to stay in Porto Novo
Porto-Novo, the capital of Benin, offers a variety of accommodations to suit different preferences and budgets. Here are some options you might consider:
An artistic hotel featuring clean, modern rooms and a peaceful garden with a hammock. Guests appreciate the welcoming staff and the hotel’s unique artistic ambiance.
Offers allergy-free rooms, a garden, and free Wi-Fi throughout the property. Previous guests have noted its quiet location, though some mentioned areas for improvement in customer service.
Provides a homely atmosphere with shared lounge facilities. Guests have praised the host’s helpfulness in navigating the city.
Features air-conditioned accommodations with a garden. While some amenities were noted as incomplete during past stays, the house has potential for a comfortable visit.