We were moving on from Ouidah today, travelling further east along the Bénin coast. Before leaving Ouidah, we were going to learn more about the slave trade that played a prominent role in the town in the 18th Century.
The Slave Market
The journey started where it would have begun for the slaves at Ouidah’s Slave Market. Today, it is no more than an open space in the centre of the town. On one side of the market is a large house that belonged to the family who operated the market. Inside the market area, there are some large, round metal spheres bolted to the ground which represent the balls and shackles that would have kept the slaves from escaping. The slaves were brought from around the area from as far as Abomey, where the tribal kings would trade prisoners of war or people from their villages for clothes, furnishings, and most importantly weapons. The slaves were branded in the market, the brand depending on who had acquired them and where they were destined to go.
The government has commissioned two new statues for the Slave Market area, but when we visited, they were still covered but looked to be finished.
The Black House
From the market, the slaves were taken along a narrow path through the forest towards the port. Today, the path is a major road connecting the town to the beach. Along the path there was a tree called ‘The Tree of Forget’ – it is no longer there. The men had to circle the tree nine times, the number nine represents men in local culture, and the women seven times (seven the number representing women). The purpose of this was to disorientate the slaves. From there they were marched to a building that was in the forest, called the Black House.
The Black House no longer exists, nor does the forest, it has been replaced by a village. The spot where the Black House was is now a memorial site with some statues. There is a new museum being opened next to the site which will tell the story of the slaves.
The Black House was about 300m2 and would be filled with about 300 slaves – do the maths, they only had one square metre each! They were kept there for 2 weeks in cramped, dark and hot condition to disorientate and get them used to being in the boats for transportation.
The grave site memorial
Close to the Black House is another even more macabre memorial. Many slaves we made to walk hundreds of kilometres so by the time they reached the Black House they would have been in terrible condition. The lucky one would have died, but the sick and frail were tossed into a pit with the dead to meet their end. The second memorial commemorated the site where this pit was found. Archaeologists discovered the remains of thousands of people in the pit. They were removed and reinterred in consecrated ground and the pit was covered and marked with the memorial.
Next to the pit was another old tree of significance. This one was a ‘Sausage’ tree, and the slaves would circle this three times. The belief was if they did this should they die on the journey their spirits would be transferred to a higher place.
Gate of no return
Not too far from the village, by the beach, is the Gate of No Return. Slaves would pass through this gate before being loaded on the slave ships and transported away to a foreign land, never to return.
It is always an emotional experience to come somewhere atrocities have taken place in the past, and it was with a heavy heart we left Ouidah and set out towards the capital city of Bénin, Porto Novo.
Planning your visit
The Ouidah Voodoo Festival, a vibrant celebration of Benin’s rich cultural heritage, is held annually on January 10 in Ouidah, approximately 42 kilometres west of Cotonou.
Transportation Options from Cotonou to Ouidah:
Bush Taxis: These shared taxis operate frequently between Cotonou and Ouidah, offering an affordable means of travel. The journey typically takes about an hour, depending on traffic and road conditions.
Private Vehicles: For a more comfortable experience, consider hiring a private car or taxi. This option provides flexibility in departure times and allows for a more personalized travel experience.
The best time to visit
The optimal time to visit Ouidah is during the dry season, which spans from November to April. This period offers warm and dry weather, ideal for exploring the city’s historical landmarks and engaging in outdoor activities.
Within this timeframe, January stands out as a particularly favourable month. Not only does it feature pleasant weather, but it also hosts the annual Fête du Vodoun (Vodoun Festival) on January 10. This vibrant celebration offers a deep dive into Benin’s rich cultural heritage, with traditional ceremonies, music, and dance, making it a unique experience for visitors.
It’s important to note that Ouidah experiences high humidity year-round, with levels ranging from 80% to 88%. The wet season, characterized by significant rainfall, occurs from May to October, with June being the wettest month. Therefore, planning your visit during the dry season can enhance your travel experience by avoiding heavy rains and ensuring more comfortable exploration conditions.
Where to stay in Grand Popo
1. Hôtel DK
Located in Ouidah, a 14-minute walk from the Ouidah Museum of History, Hôtel DK provides accommodations with a garden, free private parking, a terrace and a restaurant. This 4-star hotel offers free shuttle service and a 24-hour front desk. Guest rooms at the hotel are equipped with a flat-screen TV and a kitchen. All rooms have a private bathroom with a shower and free toiletries. All guest rooms at Hôtel DK feature air conditioning and a desk.
2. RESIDENCE MGA HOTEL
RESIDENCE MGA HOTEL is a 4-star establishment located in Ouidah, Benin, approximately 3.4 km from the Ouidah Museum of History.
The hotel offers daily breakfast options, including à la carte, continental, and Italian selections. The nearest airport is Cotonou Cadjehoun Airport, situated about 37 km away. Guests have praised the attentive staff, comfortable rooms, and tasteful decor. The hotel also features an on-site restaurant and a relaxing terrace. Free private parking is available on-site without the need for a reservation.
3. Natura luxury red house
1.7 miles from Ouidah Museum of History in Ouidah, Natura luxury red house offers accommodations with access to an open-air bath. Offering free Wifi, the property also has a private beach area, water sports facilities, and pool with a view. The accommodation provides a 24-hour front desk and full-day security for guests.
Providing a terrace and lake views, the villa includes 2 bedrooms, a living room, satellite flat-screen TV, an equipped kitchen, and 1 bathroom with a walk-in shower.
