The Taneka villages in Benin, located in the Atacora region, are known for their unique cultural heritage, traditional mud-brick architecture, and their role as a living testament to the rituals and customs of the Taneka people.
Benin: Grand Popo – Mono River Delta
Our journey would take us down the Mono River to its mouth, where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean. The section we would be travelling runs parallel to the sea, so we would never be far from the ocean.
The Mono River flows through Togo and Benin, originating in the central highlands of Togo. The river travels southward, eventually emptying into the Gulf of Guinea, near the town of Ouidah in Benin. The Mono River serves as an important natural resource, supporting agriculture, fishing, and local transportation for the communities along its banks.
In Benin, the Mono River forms part of the border between Benin and Togo and plays a crucial role in the regional economy. It is particularly important for the agricultural areas in the region, where its waters are used for irrigation. The river’s delta, where we’d be travelling, is home to rich biodiversity, including wetlands that support various bird species and aquatic life.
Despite its ecological significance, the Mono River has faced challenges such as pollution and the impact of climate change, which have threatened the health of the river and the communities depending on it.
This river has no large wildlife in and around its waters – so no crocodiles or hippos to be seen. What it does have is plenty of birdlife, and as we travelled down the river we saw along the shore and on the sandbanks, herons, egrets, ducks, and wading birds. It was very pleasant tootling down the river.
One of the important ecosystems in the Mono River Delta is the mangroves, and we took a short detour into them to get a close look.
From the mangroves, we crossed the river and pulled up on one of the islands where disembarked. We were on the edge of one of the villages. Our guide, who joined us for the journey explained how the women of the village extracted salt from sand. The sand is not local it is brought from the nearby town of Ouidah. The sand is put in a large bowl with holes in the bottom. Water is poured through the sand and collected in a bucket below – the water is now a saline solution. A nut from a tree on the island is used to test the salinity of the water – if it sinks the water does not have enough salt content. Once the bucket is full it is taken and put over a fire to evaporate the water – what remains are salt crystals.
We continued our walk across the small island to the opposite shore where our boat was waiting. Before setting off we sat under the shade of a tree and were treated to fresh coconut (we had collected these enroute). The milk was delicious and the flesh even better. As we sat enjoying our treat a small herd of goats joined us hoping from some pickings along with some boys who were more interested in financial rewards. One of the boys had ad hoc stilts strapped to his legs and a mask put over his face and attempted to perform for us to earn a small reward – Karen was more worried about his safety than being entertained.
Leaving the village, we headed further upstream to the mouth of the river, where it joins the Gulf of Guinea. This is known as the ‘Boca do Rei’, which means ‘Mouth of the King’ in Portuguese, who were the first Europeans to colonise this part of West Africa. Our boat pulled up on the narrow spit of sand which separated the Mono River from the Atlantic Ocean. We walked along the sand, enjoying the waves crashing on the beach and the hundreds of sand crabs scuttling in and out of the surf.
It was now time to head back. The sun was beginning to set, and it was lovely to have the cooling wind in our faces as we cruised upstream. Wonderful. About 20 minutes later we were back at our starting point.
From the boat, we drove along the coastal road. On the way in we noticed that there was a sea turtle sanctuary, and we had persuaded Ben to stop on the way back. It was a very home-spun affair with four of five large tanks. A couple had larger turtles in, but a couple of tanks were full of tiny baby turtles bobbing around. Sadly, there we a few dead babies in the water. It is a government-run project, so we made a small donation before leaving.
Planning your visit
Grand-Popo, a coastal town in southern Benin, is known for its beautiful beaches, rich cultural heritage, and vibrant history as a former centre for the transatlantic slave trade.
Getting There
By Private Car:
The journey from Cotonou to Grand-Popo covers approximately 80 kilometers and typically takes around two hours, depending on traffic. You’ll travel westward along the RNIE1 highway, passing through Ouidah before reaching Grand-Popo. Be prepared for a toll fee of 400 CFA en route.
By Shared Taxi:
Shared taxis, known locally as “bush taxis,” are a common mode of transport in Benin. In Cotonou, you can find these taxis near the Étoile Rouge (Red Star) monument. The fare to Grand-Popo is approximately 2,500 CFA per person. These taxis often wait until full before departing, so it’s advisable to arrive early to secure a seat.
By Bus:
While bus services are operating between major cities in Benin, they can be unreliable due to irregular schedules. For a more dependable journey, especially if you have a fixed itinerary, it’s recommended to opt for a shared taxi or private ca
The best time to visit
The optimal time to visit Grand-Popo, Benin, is during the dry season, which spans from November to February. During these months, the weather is cooler and less humid, featuring sunny skies, warm temperatures, and minimal rainfall. This climate is ideal for enjoying the beautiful beaches and exploring local attractions.
Additionally, this period coincides with several cultural events in Benin. Notably, the International Festival of the Dahomean Cultures takes place in December, highlighting the diverse cultures of Benin through traditional songs, dances, and folklore. In January, the Vodou Day festival in Ouidah offers a unique insight into the Vodou religion with vibrant celebrations.
While November to February is considered peak tourist season, leading to higher prices and larger crowds, visiting from March to June or September to October can provide a more budget-friendly and tranquil experience, with fewer tourists and slightly lower prices. However, avoiding the rainy season from June to August is advisable, as heavy rainfall may pose challenges for travel and outdoor activities.
Where to stay in Grand Popo
Located in Grand-Popo, this hotel features a garden, a private beach area, and a shared lounge. Guests have praised its excellent location and friendly staff.
A 4-star beachfront hotel offering a fitness centre, garden, and shared lounge. Guests appreciate its location and large swimming pool.
This guesthouse provides accommodations with barbecue facilities and a shared lounge. Guests have noted the excellent beach view and serene environment.
Featuring a garden, terrace, and restaurant, this establishment is known for its friendly staff and proximity to the beach.
Situated in Nicouécodji, this hotel offers a garden, private beach area, and terrace. Guests have mentioned the helpful staff and cleanliness.
Grand-Popo, Benin
A beachfront property featuring spacious rooms, private bathrooms, independent studios, a pool, and personalized services like a private chef and car rentals. Ideal for families, groups, or couples seeking a relaxing escape.
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