🚀 A Night in a Tin Can: Sleeping in the Apollo 11 Space Ship in Twizel
We reached Twizel in the late afternoon under a flat stretch of Mackenzie sky. Twizel is not what you would call charming in a chocolate-box sense. It was put together in the late 1960s as a temporary town for workers building the Upper Waitaki hydroelectric scheme. The idea had been to remove it once the dams were finished. Sensibly, that never happened. These days it carries on quite happily as a base for anglers, walkers and people like us who book slightly odd places to stay.
And this was certainly that.
We had booked the Apollo 11 Space Ship Airbnb, which sat in a perfectly ordinary street looking as though it had taken a wrong turn somewhere above the Tasman Sea. From the outside it was a round, metallic structure, clearly inspired by the idea of a flying saucer. It was not a precise replica of the real Apollo 11 command module, which in 1969 carried Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Michael Collins to the Moon and back. The real capsule was cramped, technical and designed for survival. This one was designed for weekend guests and came with a kettle, which I consider progress.
🌌 The Moon Landing and a Bit of Perspective
The actual Apollo 11 mission was the high point of the Space Race between the United States and the Soviet Union. After Sputnik in 1957 and Yuri Gagarin’s flight in 1961, the Americans committed themselves to landing a man on the Moon. The Apollo programme ran through the 1960s into the early 1970s and involved hundreds of thousands of people. When Armstrong stepped onto the lunar surface, it was broadcast around the world. People in New Zealand watched it live, even in small towns far from the centres of power.
At the same time, Twizel was still a muddy construction settlement supporting hydro engineers. It amused me that while astronauts were orbiting the Moon, this corner of the South Island was busy pouring concrete and building canals. Decades later, we were about to climb into a pretend spacecraft in that very same town.
🛸 Boarding the Capsule
Getting into the spaceship required climbing a small set of external steps up to the door. This is where our enthusiasm took its first wobble. The stairs felt rickety underfoot. They moved more than I would have liked. Karen stopped halfway up and looked at them with deep suspicion. She was not convinced they were as solid as they ought to be. I tried to look confident and supportive while quietly agreeing with her. One does not expect to test structural engineering when checking into holiday accommodation.
We made it inside without incident, though Karen made it quite clear she was not entirely happy about coming back down them in the dark.
Inside, the space followed the circular shape of the structure. Built-in seating ran around the curved walls, with a compact kitchen area tucked neatly to one side. The bed was positioned efficiently, and there was a small bathroom fitted in behind a sliding door. The theme was present but not overdone. A few space references, some prints on the wall, and that was about it.
However, we did notice fairly quickly that the cleanliness was not quite up to scratch. It was not disastrous, but it was not spotless either. There were areas that could have done with a more careful clean. Dust in corners, a few marks that had been missed. For a novelty stay, one expects a bit of fun. For the price, one also expects a proper clean. We were both quietly disappointed.
🌠 The Dark Sky That Refused to Cooperate
One of the big draws of Twizel is its position within the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve. On a clear night the stars here are meant to be spectacular. The Milky Way can be seen clearly, along with the Southern Cross and more stars than you can sensibly count.
Unfortunately, we did not get a clear night.
Cloud moved in and settled firmly overhead. We stepped outside in hope, craning our necks like determined amateur astronomers. There was nothing to see. Just a thick, dull layer of grey. It felt faintly ironic to be staying in a spaceship and not see a single star. We went back inside slightly deflated.
🛰 Earthly Matters
The heating worked well, which in this part of New Zealand is important. The temperature dropped quickly once the sun disappeared. Whatever doubts we had about the stairs and the cleaning, at least we were warm.
We made a simple supper in the small kitchen area and sat talking about the real Apollo mission. The original spacecraft had been guided by computers with less memory than a basic modern device. Yet it had travelled nearly 400,000 kilometres to the Moon and back. It was a remarkable achievement. By comparison, we were simply trying to avoid tripping over curved walls on the way to the bathroom.
Moving around inside required a bit of care. Without corners, everything curved into everything else. It was easy enough in daylight. In the evening, one paid attention.
🌍 Back to Solid Ground
We slept reasonably well. The bed was comfortable, and the town itself was quiet. No rocket engines. No countdowns. Just the occasional car passing on the street.
In the morning, the cloud still hung about. There was no dramatic sunrise, no glittering basin, no grand cosmic moment. We made tea and packed up.
The Apollo 11 Space Ship stay had been an interesting idea. It was certainly different, and the link to one of the most significant events of the twentieth century gave it character. But we could not ignore the small disappointments. The cleaning could have been better. The stairs felt less secure than they should have. Karen, in particular, was not entirely comfortable with them.
It was not quite mission failure. But nor was it a textbook landing.
Planning Your Visit to Twizel
📍 Location
Twizel sits in the Mackenzie Basin in the South Island of New Zealand. It lies between the Southern Alps and vast turquoise lakes, serving as a gateway to Aoraki / Mount Cook and the surrounding high country. The town has a relaxed, rural atmosphere with wide streets and expansive views.
Twizel is approximately:
65 km south of Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park
60 km north of Lake Tekapo
🚌 Getting Around
Twizel is compact and easy to explore on foot or by bicycle. Most accommodation, cafés and shops sit within walking distance of the town centre.
For exploring lakes, alpine trails and scenic lookouts, you use a private car. There is no extensive local public transport network. Guided tours to Aoraki / Mount Cook and surrounding alpine areas operate daily, typically departing between 08:00 and 10:00 and returning late afternoon around 16:00–18:00.
Getting There
You typically reach Twizel by car.
From Christchurch: around 3.5–4 hours’ drive (approximately 285 km).
From Queenstown: around 3 hours’ drive (approximately 200 km).
State Highway 8 provides the main access route. There is no airport in Twizel; the nearest major airports are in Christchurch and Queenstown. Intercity coach services operate daily, though services are limited compared to larger towns, so advance booking is advisable.
🚌 Getting Around
Twizel is compact and easy to explore on foot or by bicycle. Most accommodation, cafés and shops sit within walking distance of the town centre.
For exploring lakes, alpine trails and scenic lookouts, you use a private car. There is no extensive local public transport network. Guided tours to Aoraki / Mount Cook and surrounding alpine areas operate daily, typically departing between 08:00 and 10:00 and returning late afternoon around 16:00–18:00.
🕒 Operating Hours & Entry Fees
Twizel itself has no entry fee and remains accessible at all hours.
Natural Attractions
Lake Ruataniwha: Open 24 hours, free entry.
Lake Pukaki viewing areas: Open 24 hours, free entry.
Alpine walking tracks in the national park: Open 24 hours, free entry.
Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park Visitor Centre
Open daily 09:00–16:30 (hours may reduce slightly in winter).
Entry: Free.
There are no general combination sightseeing tickets for natural attractions, as most are free. However, commercial glacier flights and guided alpine experiences offer package pricing when combining scenic flights with guided walks. Prices typically start from NZD $250–$600 per adult depending on duration and inclusions.
⚖️ Culture & Local Considerations
Respect for Nature: Twizel sits in a fragile alpine environment. You follow the “Leave No Trace” principles, taking rubbish away with you.
Biosecurity Laws: New Zealand enforces strict biosecurity rules. You clean boots and equipment before entering walking tracks to prevent spreading pests.
Freedom Camping Rules: Camping is permitted only in designated areas. Fines apply for illegal freedom camping.
Sun Safety: UV levels are high, even on cool days. You wear sunscreen and protective clothing.
Driving Etiquette: Roads are often narrow and rural. You drive on the left and allow faster vehicles to pass where safe.
🏔 Practical Tips
Fuel stations are limited; you fill up before heading into remote areas.
Mobile reception can be patchy outside town.
Weather changes rapidly in alpine regions, so you carry layered clothing and check forecasts before hikes.
Planning your visit to Twizel means preparing for open landscapes, minimal commercialisation and a strong connection to nature. With the right preparation, you experience one of the South Island’s most striking high-country settings.
The best time to visit the Twizel / Mount Cook, Aoraki