Sweden: Blekinge – Karlskrona
We were on our way to Denmark, but first, we had one more stop to make at the port town of Karlskrona, about 90 minutes south of Kalmar.
It was one of those changeable weather days, a mix of clouds and sunshine with as sprinkle or two of rain thrown in. When we arrived in Karlskrona it was around 9:30 on a Saturday morning and things were still relatively quiet. The first order of the day was to find parking. The city has a zone parking system, and you need an app to pay for the parking, there are several to choose from. It turned out to be a simple process and even better parking was free at the weekends.
Karlskrona is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which includes the whole area of baroque streets, a shipyard and a fort. The city of Karlskrona is spread over 30 islands, the main one being Trossö where the city centre is located.
The Naval Port of Karlskrona is a well preserved and complete example of a European naval base, built in the period when these were being established by several major maritime powers. Karlskrona was founded in 1680 when the Royal Swedish Navy was relocated there. At the time Sweden was the dominant military power in the Baltic sea region. The island had a very strategic position with short sailing distances to the German and Baltic provinces.
Most of the baroque buildings from this era are still standing, which is why the city centre is architecturally uniform. The shipyard in Karlskrona was established almost at the same time as the city. In 1711, the shipyard was Sweden’s largest industrial employer with 1,100 workers.
Our journey around Karlskrona started at Stortorget (the main square) which is quite large and covered in cobblestones. Even allowing for the grey weather it is not the most thrilling square in Europe, but it does contain two of Sweden’s foremost examples of Baroque architecture, Frederik Church, and Trinity Church. It is strange despite my lack of faith how I am constantly drawn to visit churches; I just love the architecture but occasionally I do feel a deep sense of spirituality, which is quite different from faith.
The work on Frederik Church, Fredrikskyrkan, started in 1720 using a design from Nicodemus Tessin, Sweden’s former chief architect. It took almost 24 years before the baroque church was inaugurated in the presence of the Swedish Crown Prince Adolf Fredrik. In 2018 the church underwent a major renovation, and it is now one of the most modern churches in Sweden.
As things were still quiet, we decided to go have and look inside. We were met by one of the church’s greeters, a lovely personable lady in a wheelchair. She told us more about the church and its recent history. The inside had a very contemporary feel, everything was white, and it was full of light and felt airy. There were hardly any garish decorations which made those that were there stand out. The altar and pulpit were decorated but were again simple in design. All the pews had been removed and replaced with stackable chairs which would makes the church’s nave a flexible space. As we walked around admiring the church a man started playing a clarinet. There was going to be a free concert inside the church in a couple of hours, so we resolved to be back by then to listen in, which fitted perfectly with our timetable for the day.
Across the square from Frederik Church is the Holy Trinity Church or Trefaldighetskyrkan also known as the German Church, which was modelled on the Pantheon in Rome with an octagonal base and a domed roof. It was built from 1697 to 1709 for the relatively large German community in Karlskrona. It was designed by the famous architect Nicodemus Tessin the Younger. During the great city fire in 1790 the church was badly damaged and then rebuilt according to the original plans over a period of 12 years, but with a smaller and less complex domed roof.
Domed roofs in churches are always impressive, more so from the inside, but we did not find the Trinity Church half as impressive as the Frederik Church. Its interior was dark and classical.
After checking out both churches we needed to work out where to go next. On Stortorget there was a tent set up by the local tourist information centre, so this seemed a good place to start. One of the young ladies working on the booth handed us a map with a walking route that was about 3km and would take us about 90 minutes to cover. This was perfect as it would get us back in time to catch the concert at Frederik Church at noon. So, off we went.
The initial part of the route took us down a shopping street towards the harbour. Nothing too interesting here, but it led us across a bridge to the small island of Stumholmen, which after 300 years as a closed military area, the island Stumholmen was transformed in 1993 into a civilian section of the city. Among waterside houses and workplaces and at the lovely swimming beach, history lives on. The main tourist attraction here is the Naval Museum, but we had a bit of a ‘time crunch and didn’t think we could do the museum justice, and in any case, we were a bit ‘museumed-out’. There were a few larger warships moored outside the museum, including a tall ship were interesting to look at. A part of the museum is the Sloop and Longboat Shed, which was free to go in and had interesting displays of small boats and their roles in military use. It was an excellent and informative exhibition.
After visiting the Sloop and Longboat Shed, we walked around Stumholmen for a while, taking to the waterfront where there were views across the harbour to the naval shipyards. We took the bridge back from Stumholmen to Trossö and continued along the walking route passing by several beautiful baroque buildings. Along the way we passed by another church, the Admiralty Church Ulrica Pia (Amiralitetskyrkan Ulrica Pia), which was consecrated in 1685 and is the largest wooden church in Sweden. The outline of the red-painted church is in the shape of a Greek cross. The cube-shaped main building in the centre has a footprint of 20×20 metres. At all four sides are smaller, equally sized cross arms.
When we arrived at the Admiralty Church it was closed as there was a christening happening inside. So, we looked around the outside and took pictures of the wooden statue Gubben Rosenbom (The Old Rosebom) standing in front of the church. The sculpture became known worldwide in particular from the tale The Wonderful Adventures of Nils by Selma Lagerlöf.
The coloured sculpture in the shape of a grey-haired man in the uniform of a sailor dates to the year 1750 and serves as a money-collecting box for alms. If you flip the hat, you can insert coins in the head of the figure.
In his left hand, Rosenbom is holding a poster with the following text in Old Swedish: “I humbly beg you, even if my voice is powerless, come, put a penny in, but first lift up my hat. Blessed are those who take care of the poor.” The last sentence comes from the Biblical Psalm 42.1.
By the time we were done with this, the christening ceremony was over and we were allowed into the church, which was rather beautiful. The interior of the church is decorated mainly in the colours of the sea in shades of light blue and light green. The roof structure of the main building is supported by four massive wooden columns. In the southern and north transept bleachers are installed with an overlying straight wooden ceiling. The east wing is the chancel and is provided with a vaulted ceiling, while the organ is housed in the west wing in an arched niche.
The altarpiece in neo-classical style dates from the 1820s and the altar painting is a replica of Rubens painting The Coup de Lance, whose original hangs in the cathedral of Antwerp. The octagonal pulpit with canopy and gilded ornaments was added during the major restoration in 1864.
While we were in the church Karen got talking to an older Swedish couple from Gothenburg, who had come down to Karlskrona. They had got married in this very church 57 years prior. She persuaded them to have their photo together. When she suggested a photo of them kissing the man replied in a gruff voice, ‘do you think we are Americans’. Apparently, the Swedish are not known for outwardly showing their emotions – very stoic!
Just a short distance from the church was the yellow Karlskrona Admiralty Bell Tower which was built in 1699. The clock was originally used as a time clock for the employees at the shipyard. Since 1909, however, it has been used as a church bell for the Admiral Church. The shape of the building is inspired by the ancient lighthouse Pharos in Alexandria, Egypt.
It was fast approaching noon, so we decided to not do the rest of the walking route and instead headed to the Frederik Church for the concert. We were one of the first there so got the pick of the seats. The concert was a clarinet accompanied by an organ, a small one, not a huge pipe organ. The acoustics were incredible. It was lovely just to sit and soak in the atmosphere whilst listening to the haunting melodies emanating from the saxophone. The concert was short, only about 30 minutes and before long we were on our way to Copenhagen.
Planning your visit to Karlskrona
Getting to Karlskrona By Train
You can travel by train from Stockholm to Emmaboda, changing at Alvesta from the SJ high-speed train to the local train, and then had a car transfer from Emmaboda to Karlskrona. The train journey from Stockholm to Emmaboda takes around 4 hours, and the transfer another hour.
You can also take a train all the way from Stockholm to Karlskrona, which takes around 6 hours and costs around 95 euros for a basic second-class return ticket, or more if you reserve a seat or add extras.
If you’re coming from Denmark, you can take a train direct from Copenhagen to Karlskrona, which takes around 3.5 hours, or from Malmö in around 2 hours 45 minutes. You can check train times here.
Getting to Karlskrona By Bus
Svenskabuss runs buses to Karlskrona during the summer months, although there are two changes between Stockholm and Karlskrona. Tickets cost about 80 euros for a return ticket, and it takes about 7 and a half hours each way. Check their website here.
Getting to Karlskrona By Air
There are flights from Stockholm Arlanda and Bromma Airports to Ronneby, about 30 minutes drive from Karlskrona. Flight times are about an hour and cost approximately 170€. Transfer buses run regularly from Ronneby Airport to Karlskrona, with two companies, this one whose timetable coordinates with SAS flights to Ronneby and this one which coordinates with Bromma flights.
The best time to visit Sweden
Sweden, positioned in Northern Europe, reaches from the Baltic Sea in the southeast up to the Arctic Circle in the north. Its geography ranges from coastal plains to highlands and mountainous areas, all contributing to its distinct weather patterns that significantly differ throughout the year. The Köppen climate classification indicates that the majority of Sweden experiences a temperate climate. This indicates varying weather conditions that cycle with the changing seasons.
The south coastal areas, classified as humid continental or oceanic using the -3°C (26.6°F) isotherm, benefit from milder winters and relatively cooler summers in contrast to other regions of the country. Conversely, central Sweden falls under a humid continental climate, leading to warm summers and cold winters. The further north one travels, a subarctic climate is encountered, where long, icy winters and brief, cool to mild summers are the norm. These varying climatic conditions bring a unique diversity to the nation’s weather, making Sweden a land of climatic contrasts.
The best time to visit Sweden
The optimal time to explore Sweden greatly depends on the individual’s interests. The months between June and August present the most clement weather, where average temperatures typically hover from 15°C (59°F) to 25°C (77°F). It is a particularly attractive time for outdoor enthusiasts who may wish to indulge in hiking, camping, or simply absorbing the picturesque Swedish landscapes. Additionally, this period also ushers in the renowned Midnight Sun phenomenon in the northern areas of the country.
The worst time to visit Sweden
The period least recommended for visiting Sweden, particularly for outdoor activities, is the winter season that spans from December to February. The nation undergoes extreme cold during this time, with temperatures frequently dropping below -20°C (-4°F) in the north. The days are short, particularly pronounced in the northern areas, where the Polar Night phenomenon results in a 24-hour darkness.
Where to stay in Karlkrona
1. Clarion Collection Hotel Carlscrona
This waterfront hotel is 200 meters from Central Station and within 10 minutes’ walk of Karlskrona’s main square, Stortorget. Free WiFi, a hotel bar, sauna access and a free light evening buffet are offered.
Guest rooms at Clarion Collection Hotel Carlscrona include cable TV and a private bathroom with shower. Some also feature minibars and electric kettles.
Organic options are available on the hotel’s popular breakfast buffet. Guests can also enjoy complimentary tea and coffee all day long.
This hotel is situated on Karlskrona’s central island, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Free public parking spaces are found nearby.
2. The Brewery Hotel
The Brewery Hotel is located in the center of Karlskrona and offers free WiFi. The Naval Museum and Main Market Square are a 5-minute walk away. Complimentary tea/coffee is available during reception hours.
All guest rooms at The Brewery Hotel have flat-screen TV and a private bathroom with shower. Some rooms have a private kitchenette with a fridge and dining table.
A buffet breakfast is served every morning in the dining room and guests have access to a small on-site gym. Laundry facilities are provided for guests’ convenience.
Fredrikskyrkan Church is located within a 5-minute walk. Karlskrona Station is 1 km from the hotel.
3. Fregatten Bed & Breakfast
Located within less than 1 km of Saltösand Beach and 1.9 km of Dragsö Beach in Karlskrona, Fregatten Bed & Breakfast provides accommodation with seating area. The property has garden and city views, and is 2.3 km from Dragsö Aoursol Beach. Providing free WiFi throughout the property, the bed and breakfast is allergy-free and features a sauna.
All units include a shared bathroom with bathrobes, while some feature sea views. At the bed and breakfast, every unit comes with bed linen and towels.
