Lima was founded by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro on January 18, 1535, as the City of the Kings. It became the most important city in the Spanish Viceroyalty of Peru and, after the Peruvian War of Independence, the capital of the Republic of Peru.
One of the first things you notice is the traffic – it is a very busy, vibrant place. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of control on vehicle emissions so the air isn’t too healthy. The second thing you notice is the huge number of minivans and buses, packed with people carrying them to and from work. Lima has a population of 9 million people, out of a total of 27 million for the whole of the country.
Fortunately, Lima is a relatively safe country to visit nowadays. This is a contrast to 10 to 15 years ago when the country was almost in a state of civil war. Alas like most countries in the region there is a significant amount of poverty, although the country is wealthy in mineral reserves including being self-sufficient in oil. On our drive to the historical city centre, it is evident money is being invested in reconstruction in the infrastructure.
PLAZA DE ARMAS
Our first stop is Plaza de Armas, (main square) the historic centre that is home to the Palace of Government, City Hall and its magnificent 16th-century cathedral. We are given a tour of the Cathedral, with its 15 adjoining chapels including one which contains the remains of Francisco Pizarro. The ornate altar and the wonderfully carved choir stalls make it a worthwhile place to visit.
CONVENT OF SAN FRANCISCO & CAPILLA DE LA SOLEDAD
Next, we walked around the corner to the Plaza de San Francisco. This is an excellent example of baroque colonial architecture and is comprised of the Convent of San Francisco, and the Capilla de la Soledad y del Milagro (Chapel of Solitude and of the Miracle). Outside the church, there was a long queue of people carrying flowers, which they were using to pay homage to Saint Rose of Lima, the saint of employment. Below the church is an extensive system of catacombs which is now a museum. We descended the steps and passed through the chambers where there are troughs filled with human remains, all neatly stacked. The bones were separated out so there were neat piles of skulls, sacrums, femurs etc. Somewhat spooky but Jack and Emily were fascinated by these remains. Purportedly, there are some 40,000 remains of people buried in the catacombs here. Soon enough it was time to rise to the surface and we moved to the more serene environment (an oasis in the context of Lima) of the cloisters, which are famous for the authentic Sevillian tile work, which was completed in 1620. The tile work is lovely but some of the patterns have been completed with odd tiles; in some cases whole sections. As these tiles were made in Seville it took some 12 months for them to arrive in Lima and some would get broken in transit so other tiles were fitted whilst replacements were ordered. The re-order took 12 months to arrive in Seville and another 12 to come, consequently, a number of the designs were never truly completed. How the world has shrunk!!!
THE SEAFRONT
Our tour of the old town of Lima was finished so we returned to our hotel with a stop to look at the bay. We looked down on the Pacific Ocean waves crashing on the beach. The water did not look too inviting from high on the cliffs, and we are told it is pretty polluted here. You would probably sprout a second head if you swam in there too long. Instead, we admired a statue of some lovers in an embrace and there are some young couples attempting their own interpretation. This is not really the place to be for a family with young children so we returned back to our hotel as we had an early start in the morning.
Planning your visit to Lima
Flights to Lima arrive at Jorge Chavez International Airport in Callao, which is around 13km from the city center and about 18km from the tourist district of Miraflores. Several international airlines operate regular direct or connecting flights to Lima’s airport from many cities in North and South America, and Europe. Major airlines serving Jorge Chavez International Airport are American Airlines, Continental Airlines, Delta Airlines, Air Canada, Iberia and KLM.
Getting to Lima by Road
The Pan American Highway (Pan Americana) is Peru’s only international highway running from north to south along the coastline. In the north it connects Ecuador and the Peruvian cities of Tumbes, Piura, Chiclayo and Trujillo with Lima; in the south it connects Chile, Arequipa and Nazca with the Peruvian capital. The Central Highway (Carretera Central) runs from east to west and links the Peruvian highlands with Lima. The best way to travel by road is to use the bus system, which like most of South America is pretty good.
Trains in Peru
Generally getting around Peru by train is not ideal, unless tou are travelling on the main tourist routes from Cusco to Machu Picchu or Puno.
Navigating Lima is a complicated and time-consuming task, made difficult by the city’s sprawling character (many of the best hotels and restaurants are far from downtown, spread among three or more residential neighborhoods), heavy traffic and pollution, and a chaotic network of confusing and crowded colectivos and unregulated taxis.
As an alternative, taxis hailed from smartphone apps like Uber or Easy Taxi are a secure alternative, and prices tend to be cheaper than hailing in the street. In neighborhoods such as Barranco, Miraflores, or San Isidro, most will have a car at your location within 5 to 10 minutes upon ordering.
By Bus — The biggest advancement in public transportation in Lima’s history was the 2010 inauguration of the modern, clean, and very efficient Metropolitano Bus which travels along the Vía Expresa and Paseo de la República, connecting Lima Centro to Miraflores, Barranco, and as far south along the coast as Chorrillos.
Best time to visit Lima
The best time to visit Lima is from December to April. Since Lima is in the Southern Hemisphere, these months offer warm, summer weather (sometimes upward of 80 degrees). The city’s geography as a coastal desert means it experiences moderate temperatures throughout the year, very little rainfall, but plenty of high humidity. If you visit from May through November, considered Lima’s cooler months, you’re likely to find what locals call la garua: a thick misty sea fog that hangs over the city along with overcast skies.
Where to stay in Lima
1. COUNTRY CLUB LIMA HOTEL (5-STAR)
Located in the prestigious San Isidro district, Country Club Lima Hotel is one of the most exclusive hotels in Lima and is renowned for its excellent service. It was built in 1927 and has an impressive exhibition of more than 300 pieces of art and furniture of the Pedro de Osma Museum, which can be seen in the hotel’s public spaces and rooms. All guests are greeted with a glass of the most pleasant sparkling wine.
2. TIERRA VIVA MIRAFLORES MENDIBURU
3. RESIDENCIAL MIRAFLORES B&B
Featuring free WiFi, located in Miraflores, in the region of Región de Lima, 1.1 mi from Larcomar, Residencial Miraflores B&B features a sun terrace and views of the city. Free private parking is available on site.
Each room comes with an air conditioner and a flat-screen. All rooms are equipped with a private bathroom equipped with a shower.
