Desert camps in Wahiba Sands, Oman, offer an unforgettable experience of golden dunes, starry nights, and Bedouin hospitality, blending adventure with the tranquility of the desert.
Oman: Sur
About Sur
Sur, a coastal city in the eastern part of Oman, is known for its rich maritime history and its strategic location along the Arabian Sea. Nestled in the Ash Sharqiyah region, Sur has long been a center for shipbuilding, particularly the construction of traditional wooden dhows. The city’s natural harbor made it a key hub for trade with East Africa, India, and beyond, facilitating the exchange of goods and cultural influences. Even today, Sur’s shipyards remain active, preserving the centuries-old art of dhow building. The city’s connection to the sea is evident in its architecture, lifestyle, and local economy, which is still deeply rooted in fishing and seafaring traditions.
Sur is also home to several historical landmarks that reflect its storied past. The Al Ayjah Watchtower, located at the entrance of the harbor, stands as a symbol of the city’s strategic importance and historical defense system. The Bilad Sur Castle, dating back to the 16th century, offers a glimpse into Oman’s architectural and military heritage. The city’s narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses, traditional Omani doors, and ornate balconies, showcasing a blend of Arabian and East African influences. The maritime museum in Sur provides further insight into the city’s role in global trade and dhow construction, highlighting the craftsmanship and maritime expertise of the local population.
Sur’s natural beauty is another key draw for visitors. The city’s coastline is dotted with pristine beaches, including Ras Al Jinz, which is famous for being a nesting ground for endangered green turtles. The nearby wadis, such as Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi, offer stunning landscapes with turquoise pools, palm trees, and dramatic cliffs, making them popular destinations for hiking and swimming. The blend of cultural heritage, natural beauty, and traditional craftsmanship makes Sur a captivating destination that offers a deep connection to Oman’s seafaring past and its enduring traditions.
Things to do
Explore the Dhow Factory
Sur was once one of the main trading ports on the Arabian Peninsula, boats would travel across the oceans to faraway places such as India and Indonesia. As a result, Sur developed a large dhow manufacturing industry. As time went on Sur’s importance as a trading port declined as did its dhow manufacturing. Today, there remains just one dhow factory, which still builds boats. It is also a centre for retaining artisan skills and passing those on to future generations.
We started our visit in the factory’s museum. The displays told of the maritime history of Sur and Oman, how dhows are made, and the tools used. Inside the museum is also a large dhow, which you can climb aboard and see how they are constructed. It was a very nice museum and professionally done.
Once we had finished inside the museum, we went out to look around the boatyard. There was one very large dhow under construction. There was a rickety old ladder you could climb up and look inside the belly of the beast. Many of the ribs of the dhow were exposed so you clearly see the structure of the boat.
Around the boatyard, which was very ramshackle, a handful of smaller boats were under construction. Men were busily working on these vessels. We spent several minutes looking around and snapping photos. As we were about to leave the dhow factory, we passed by the large dhow, we noticed some other visitors were inside and climbing higher into the boat. So, we decided to follow. The ladders up were somewhat sketchy and would not meet the safety standards of Europe or the USA, but it made it feel all the more adventurous. After two flights of ladders, we were on the deck of the dhow, which was expansive, but totally unfinished. From here we got a great view of the boatyard and the river beyond, which was tidal. It was low tide, which had stranded several operational dhows in the silt.
After slowly making our way down from the deck, we headed towards the exit. A guide with a tour group was sitting drinking some coffee. He was very hospitable and offered for us to join him for coffee and dates. While we sat drinking and talking, he explained that the large dhow was a project of the factory owner who had started working on it decades ago. It was a labour of love!
Visit the Maritime Museum
Not too far from the dhow factory was the Maritime Museum. It was still early in the morning, so we were just about the first visitors of the day. We started by looking around the outside exhibits, which included wooden boats of all shapes and sizes, including a very large historic dhow – even bigger than the one we had seen at the dhow factory. Sadly, this one you could not climb aboard. Iron nails had been used to build most of the boats, but one had used twine to lash the wood of the boat together.
Once done with the outside exhibits, we went indoors. Again, it was a great little museum. There were several displays that were similar to the Dhow Factory, but more about the different types of boats. Complementing the display panels were beautiful models of the boats.
Also, in the museum were displays of historical maritime artefacts from over the centuries. In a small side room, there was a video playing, with an Arabic sound tract, but English subtitles. It told stories of Sur’s past and life at sea spoken by old sailors with wizened faces, cracked and wrinkled from years of exposure to sun and salt water.
The final gallery had displays of traditional clothing and culture.
Bilad Sur Fort
Bilad Sur Fort is a historic fortress that reflects the rich architectural and maritime heritage of the region. Built from mudbrick and stone, the fort dates back to the 19th century and served as a key defensive structure protecting Sur from potential invasions and pirate attacks. Its strategic position near the Arabian Sea allowed it to guard important trade routes and oversee maritime activities. The fort is characterized by its high walls, watchtowers, and narrow windows, which were designed for defense and surveillance. Inside, the fort features a network of rooms, storage areas, and courtyards that showcase traditional Omani craftsmanship and design.
Al Ayjah Lighthouse
Situated at the entrance of the Sur lagoon, the lighthouse has guided sailors and dhows for centuries, playing a vital role in the region’s rich seafaring history. The structure features traditional Omani architecture, with its whitewashed cylindrical tower capped by a dome, offering panoramic views of the turquoise waters and the surrounding town. Sur, known for its shipbuilding heritage, especially the crafting of wooden dhows, relies on the lighthouse as a symbol of its deep-rooted connection to the sea.
Visit the sea turtle sactuary at Ras Al Jinz
Al Mirani Fort played a crucial role in the country’s defence during the 16th and 17th centuries. Built by the Portuguese in the late 1500s, the fort, along with its twin, Al Jalali Fort, was constructed to protect Muscat’s strategic harbour from invaders. Positioned on a rocky hill overlooking the Gulf of Oman, Al Mirani provided a strong vantage point for monitoring maritime activity. The fort was instrumental in defending the region until the Omani forces, led by Imam Sultan bin Saif Al Ya’arubi, expelled the Portuguese in 1650, marking the end of Portuguese rule in Oman.
Getting to Sur
To get to Sur in Oman, you have several options depending on your starting point:
🚗 By Car (Best Option)
- From Muscat – Sur is about 200 km southeast of Muscat.
- Driving Time: Around 2 to 2.5 hours.
- Route:
- Take the Muscat-Sur Highway (Route 17).
- It’s a well-maintained road with scenic views of the coast and mountains.
- You’ll pass through towns like Quriyat and near the famous Bimmah Sinkhole and Wadi Shab — great for stops!
🚌 By Bus (Cheapest Option)
- Mwasalat (the national transport company) operates buses from Muscat to Sur.
- Frequency: 3–4 times per day.
- Duration: Around 3.5 to 4 hours.
- Fare: Around 3–5 OMR (~$8–13).
- Buses leave from Azaiba Bus Station in Muscat.
- Check the latest schedule on the Mwasalat website or app.
🚖 By Taxi (Convenient but Expensive)
- You can hire a private taxi from Muscat to Sur.
- Cost: Approximately 40–60 OMR ($100–150), depending on negotiation.
- Travel Time: Around 2.5 hours.
🛩️ By Air
- No direct flights to Sur — the closest airport is Muscat International Airport.
- From Muscat Airport, you can drive, take a taxi, or catch a bus.
The best time to visit Sur
The best time to visit Sur, Oman is during the cooler months from November to March. Here’s why:
🌤️ Ideal Weather (November – March):
- Temperatures range between 17°C to 30°C (63°F to 86°F), making it comfortable for sightseeing and outdoor activities.
- Pleasant weather makes it perfect for visiting beaches, historical sites, and exploring the city.
🏖️ Good for Turtle Watching (July – September):
- Ras Al Jinz, near Sur, is a famous turtle nesting site.
- The best time to see turtles nesting and hatching is between July and September, but it will be hot and humid during these months (over 35°C or 95°F).
🌞 Avoid the Summer Heat (May – September):
- Temperatures can soar above 40°C (104°F) with high humidity.
- Outdoor activities can be uncomfortable, so it’s not ideal unless you’re focused on turtle watching.
✅ Summary:
👉 November to March = Best for comfortable weather and exploring.
👉 July to September = Best for turtle watching, but expect intense heat.
👉 April and October = Transitional months; still warm but manageable.
Where to stay in Sur
1. Best Western Sur
The Best Western Sur Hotel, established in 1998, is a well-maintained 3-star property located in the picturesque city of Sur, Oman. Renowned for its traditional dhow manufacturing and rich fishing heritage, Sur offers visitors a blend of cultural experiences and scenic beauty. The hotel features an on-site restaurant, fitness center, and an outdoor pool, providing guests with a comfortable and enjoyable stay. Additionally, amenities such as free Wi-Fi, private parking, and airport shuttle services cater to the diverse needs of travelers. The hotel’s team of hospitality professionals ensures a friendly environment, accommodating all guest requirements.
2. Sur Grand Hotel
Sur Grand Hotel, situated in the heart of Sur, Oman, offers guests a luxurious retreat with panoramic beach views through expansive glass windows. Each air-conditioned room is well-appointed, featuring modern amenities such as flat-screen satellite TVs and comfortable furnishings. Guests can unwind at the rooftop pool, which provides a serene environment overlooking the sea. The on-site restaurant caters to diverse culinary preferences, serving both local Omani and international cuisines. Additional facilities include free private parking and a 24-hour front desk to assist with guest needs. The hotel’s strategic location makes it an ideal base for exploring Sur’s rich cultural heritage and nearby attractions.
3. Al Ayjah Plaza Hotel
Al Ayjah Plaza Hotel is a two-star establishment located in the quaint village of Al Ayjah within the city of Sur, Oman. This five-story hotel offers 41 spacious rooms, each equipped with modern amenities and private balconies that provide views of the sea and the mountainous landscape surrounding Sur. Guests can enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi throughout the property and free private parking on-site. The hotel’s restaurant serves traditional Omani cuisine, offering guests an authentic dining experience. Its strategic location makes it an ideal base for exploring local attractions, such as the historic dhow shipyards and the picturesque Ayjah harbor, both within walking distance. .
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